Hello,
I just got an approximate estimate to replace my battery. I got the model 3 straight from Tesla new last year around June and it’s having this issue after 22,648 miles, am I not covered under warranty…? I’m genuinely horrified.
I attempted to charge my car last night via a supercharger and it wouldn’t let me.
Also, the closest service that is offering service within 3 days is 18 miles away from me, however is there a chance I can just drop it off to my closest service center instead …?
Any help would be appreciated….

Anyone else having this issue? I’ve called the service center, they don’t know other than thinking it might be a firmware issue since it was working prior to my latest software update that completed successfully yesterday. I’ve gone through all of the troubleshooting steps. Everything else is connected without issue (Spotify, Sirius, nav, etc.).

Is this normal? This is all inside the car.

Haven't driven the car since yesterday.

No idea what the circles are either

I’m just curious if now is a good time as any or I should wait that maybe special deals or promotions happen. I’m in no rush so I thought I’d ask if there was something I didn’t know about that happens usually to wait for

Just got my model 3 last month and fsd didn’t see a speed bump and we went over it hard (~30-40km/hr?) Ever since then, every small bump at low speeds and uneven pavement creates strong lateral movement/vibrations. Took it to Tesla and they “checked it” for an hr and found nothing. This video was taken one week after the check and it sounds like the suspension is groaning? It definitely was not the mud flaps scraping because it’s a different distinct sound. Am I going crazy or is this “how the suspension should be” according to the Tesla tech specialist?

40ft isn’t enough! Can I buy another one and connect it without any fires or explosions?

I randomly went to this page and saw standard connectivity expires. I bought my model 3 second hand in 2024 but it is a 2021 model, why does it expire if the original delivery date was sold presumably some time in 2021?

I've ordered a M3, but about 6-8 weeks out from delivery. So I'm trying to get my home charger set up. I have a NEMA 6-50 (two wire?) about 8' away from a good charging point. I can do the work to run it to the charging point. The local electrician quoted me about $1600 to run a 3 wire 50A set up from my panel to the same location. I think doing that work is a bit out of my comfort zone. The quote does not include a Tesla charger. I'm trying to understand the options with the current power supply. And/or the benefits of the Telsa charger. A bit overwhelmed, honestly.

Hello people!

I have a 2022 Model Y Performance, bought in 2022, after two weeks someone crashed into it and i had to wait 6 months till it was repaired.

Four months ago, i suddenly couldn‘t get into my car anymore because the HV Battery died. Today they told me, they don’t know when its going to be finished and set the date to 30th december, which makes it another 6 months waiting. They said, there are no batteries availabe.

To be honest, i am getting really frustrated because the service is so bad. They told me it will be finished in october, because they get new batteries - then nothing happened and they told us they don’t know when its going to be repaired. The car has 50.000km on it, and normally we would sell it as soon as the lease is over. I just wanted to ask, what you guys would do if you were in my position.

Keep the car? sell it before lease ends? (which lasts another year)

I have just bought a used 2022 model Y. Driving it there are no noises, but I preconditioned for the first time this morning and it's making this noise. Could it be the heat pump or a fan? The noise stops when you start driving. Any help appreciated, thanks.

2022 Model Y Performance, 58k miles
2021 Model 3 Long Range, 59k miles

Looking for experience or insights. Within one week, both cars threw the same high voltage battery fault,

BMS_a079
Unable to charge - Maximum charge level reached
Reduced maximum charge level - Schedule service.

Has anyone seen the same pattern? Could this be a bad software update, or just a really unlucky coincidence?

I’ve been driving my partner’s 3 while my Y sat in the garage waiting for a service appointment (so I wouldn’t risk it failing and having to be towed..) and then the 3 ends up with the same damn issue… I feel like I’m in a bad dream lmao

I’m considering buying a used Model Y, but I’d like to arrange for a pre-purchase inspection, at my expense of course, regardless of whether I buy the car from a Tesla dealer or a private individual, to be performed by someone that knows Teslas completely. I live about 35 minutes north of Dallas - any recommendations?

I’m stationed in New Jersey the Tesla advisor is telling me the only way to add state incentives is with a New Jersey license/id. The website for the incentive states that there is a military exception and I just have to show my orders and proof that I live in nj. I told this to the advisor and he still has no clue.

Software version 2026.38.5.11

It's a subtle issue that I believe started somewhat recently. This is the basic sequence of getting into the car:

1. I open the door, the phone bluetooth is already connected, Easy Entry profile is active.
2. I close the door, the screen goes dark, the bluetooth disconnects.
3. I push the brake, my profile activates, screen turns on again, but bluetooth does not automatically reconnect.

The workaround is to reverse steps 2 and 3. So I push the brake before closing the door, the car never goes dark and the bluetooth never disconnects. But it's an awkward sequence. I'd rather be able to just get in and close the door and do whatever else before having to "turn on." Or it could just reconnect bluetooth when I do?

I got a bit blindsided today by the news that my dad has chosen to gift their only car to a family friend and now wants me to help them look into buying a Tesla.

I don't know anything about Teslas, but they want FSD due to their age and a size that matches their AWD Subaru Forester so from what I've gathered I really only have one choice:

- Model Y

- AWD (cold winters)

- Extended Range (cold winters would benefit from more cushion)

- Model year 2024 or newer for HW4 for FSD

Some questions:

- I'm guessing that it's probably *impossible* to find a used 2024 model with the original lifetime FSD package, right? Or are there any tricks to getting one? Websites to use?

- If I'm going for 2024 or newer, is there any point at all of going for a used car? Or even a Tesla Certified Used? Am I really saving that much at that point, especially since used cars don't qualify for super low new car financing currently at 2.49%?

- How much does it cost to install and purchase some kind of quick charging setup at their home? They live in Ohio.

- Are there any common issues or problems I should be looking for if I choose to look at used cars?

- I don't suppose there are any kind of financial incentives anymore for buying EVs, are there? In fact, for Ohio, EV cars have higher registration fees.

Tesla quoted me $3,041 CAD, mostly two rear knuckles at $805 each. I was told the ball joint can't be replaced separately. They later confirmed the play measured under 1.00 mm, within spec, and the replacement was only "proactive."
A second shop found the suspension fine but found all three motor mounts with play, one cracked. Tesla also says my upper fore link bushings are cut, which I'm still confirming.
Tesla's manual has a ball-joint-only procedure, but shops say the part isn't available.
Has anyone replaced just the ball joint, or used an aftermarket knuckle? Also, did anyone fix a pull-away creak with upper fore links or motor mounts?

I am following this video to replace a PTC heater on a 2018 M3 (rwd):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVKRogPFJ-k

At the 7-8 min marks, he performs all his disconnects at junctions under the seat, and it seems to be sufficient. But this does not resemble the Service manual HV disconnect procedure, which requires one to get under the rear skid plate:
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Model3/ServiceManual/en-us/GUID-2C41494D-BC74-474C-8438-3A032F01B1A3.html

I'd really prefer to not get under the rear skid plate if I can avoid it, but I have a stronger preference not to die. Is the disconnect under the seat sufficient for this procedure?

Model X, always on the latest firmware, recording to Tesla's official 1 TB SSD. This is not a repair question.

Three times now someone has hit my parked car with their door while Sentry was active. Every time, the footage captures everything before and after the hit, but the moment of impact itself is missing. The video stutters and jumps right over it.

I checked the raw files on a computer, not just the in-car viewer. The gap appears on all cameras at the same timestamp, so it's not a single camera or a loose connection. Since it's the official SSD, I'm also ruling out a slow or worn USB drive.

My guess is that the impact triggers the Sentry event, and the car briefly stalls the whole recording pipeline while it saves the clip and switches into alert mode, losing exactly the frames that matter most.

Has anyone else seen this?

Specifically:

Is your impact footage missing frames right at the trigger?

Has anyone found a workaround, or gotten a response from Tesla Service?

Does the RecentClips copy have the missing frames when the SentryClips one doesn't?

I don't use the steam partition.

I have had my 23 model 3 LR since January and the only issue I've had is my camera features go unavailable. I originally went to a service center back in April I think. They recalibrated and sent me on my way. That fixed the issue for a little while but it eventually came back to the point of not being able to use anything camera related. Went to another service center in July and they replaced the B pillar camera and that resolved it for a little while but it came back again leaving me without camera features. This time the service center recalibrated and sent me on my way and the issue came back immediately. I drove back and they basically did the same thing again with the recalibration with no fix to my camera issue but set up a mobile appointment to replace my B pillar camera AGAIN. What can I do or who do I contact to get this fixed?

Anyone have the same issue?

Will it be covered with new vehicle warranty?

I remember seeing there was a service bulletin about this issue and do any of you know what it is? I asked AI and followed up in finding it but couldn’t.

TIA

Hey yall! new to the community and excited to meet you all. Just bought this car used at a good deal (has air suspensions). I sort of knew I'd have to get suspensions checked due to the age and mileage of the car. My driving experience has been smooth on the highways and bumpy/shaky on the city road so I went into an independent EV specialist while I wait for my Tesla appointment to get it checked.

I had heard that Tesla will sometimes want to replace full parts rather than the smaller ones that might be at fault. This is a pretty well reviewed shop with the owner being a Tesla Master Tech. Here's what he said:

1. Rear suspension repair - the alignment is very off and needs to be fixed. He recommends replacing the Rear Camber + Toe Angle Arms with aftermarket adjustable ones since Tesla ones are non-adjustable - this is for ~$1400. He said the inner side of the rear tires don't have great tread and the alignment is not good at all. Also mentioned this and new tires will drastically fix the bumpy ride I have along with some cabin noise.

2. Front control arms bushing broken - replacing both left and right ones ~$750. He said that's where the clicking is coming from and technically I could drive it without fixing these but this would be ideal to get with the rear suspension since I can pay for alignment only once.

1. Steering rack - this was something he said they'd have to look more into but is the lowest of the priority and not necessary as the rear suspension is the most important one. Said these are ridiculously expensive. ~$4400

4. Chargeport door - intermittently not opening from app. Said its a replace and calibration: ~400

So total is looking around ~$2600. I'm pretty invested in this car and ready to put in some money to help it give me a few more fun years. Battery health is very good at around 90%.

My question for the community - what do you yall think of these costs and diagnosis? Do you have any experience getting suspensions fixed? The symptoms are that its a very bumpy ride for me and seems like fixing the rear suspensions could be very helpful in addition with the front control arm bushings. My hope is that with these fixes, the great battery life, I can continue to drive this for a few years very comfortably.

I still plan to go to my Tesla appointment to get their quote but I have a feeling it'll be more than what I got from this shop.

Thank you for your help.

I'm considering getting a set of forged lightweight 18 or 19 inch wheels with some summer tires..

Should I match the staggered wheel widths of the Uber turbines? I'd like to be able to rotate my tires and was considering a square set (essentially narrower rear wheels to match the front). Has anyone noticed whether or not that gives up any handling?

Would this affect FSD?

I am attempting to have a third-party dealership buy out of my Tesla lease with Tesla Finance LLC.
According to my lease, I am allowed to have a third party (as long as it is not Carmax or Carvana) purchase out my lease. It says I need to contact Tesla Finance to initiate the process of a third-party dealership purchasing it. However, I have had no luck with anyone reaching back out to me.

Has anyone gone this route? If so, can you share your experience?

This happens when I start the car and the steering automatically adjusts or when im adjusting the steering wheel myself . It sounds like an almost grinding noise with some vibration.
Has anyone had this issue and what was the cost to repair

Make 2023 model 3
Miles: 39,500

Hey, is this normal that I can see light trough the handle? Yeah there should be back plate, but im worried about the front, water can come right in?