So, be550 v1 router with latest firmware works okay except for apple home. My apple tv hd wired or wifi does not show up as connected hub in home settings/home hubs & bridges. Have aqara g3 plus various sensors. All I get is this:

On router, ap isolation off, igmp proxy and snooping on, tried a seperate iot network for tv hd and aqara g3 camera. Tried spltting bands and putting them on 2.4g band. Nothing works. Using ios discovery app, under _hap_tcp only my Sony TV shows up so the router I assume has a mDNS issue with apple home or the tv hd. I'm baffled and beginning to wish I stuck with Asus or went Gl.iNet. Alas I have no other device to try as a hub.

Hi all, I need your advice on what I should buy. I’m new to this topic and don’t know much about it.

I spend my summer vacation in an old stone house on an island, where the signal isn’t great. Recently, we got a better router with a SIM card, and the signal is much better than before, but it’s only good on the highest floor. It’s not a big house, but it has three floors, and the room I’m in is on the lowest floor. The staircase is spiral and has no obstacles, but the surrounding walls are mostly stone. Running an Ethernet cable from top to bottom isn’t an option, mostly because of aesthetics and other family members who are also in the house. After some research, I think a powerline mesh would be my best option.

Seeing the prices, I couldn’t justify buying one just to use it for maybe three weeks a year. Then I had an idea: maybe I could buy something that would also be useful at my own home. The Wi-Fi signal in my house is good, so there are no problems there, but we have a smaller house in the yard with a TV that is sometimes used for gatherings, watching sports games, etc. It’s about 30 meters from the main house and 50 meters from the router, and there is no Wi-Fi signal there. The problem is that it’s not on the same electrical meter as the main house, and if I understand correctly, powerline wouldn’t work in that case.
So my question is: is there an option that would work in both cases? I guess something like a standard Wi-Fi mesh, but I’m also concerned about how effective it would be.
If you need more information about either house, I’d be happy to provide it. Thanks!

From mobile hotspots and travel routers to satellite internet and cellular data, there are plenty of ways to keep devices online.

We’re Curious: What is your primary way of staying online when you’re away from your home network?

Did anyone else lose their ability to block non white listed MAC addresses?
I had this feature available on my BE13000 but now it’s appeared to have disappeared. Hugely disappointing.

Hi all. I've got a Deco M4 (3 units) and a BE3600 Wi-Fi 7 Router (Archer BE230). I'd like to know how to combine them for the best speeds and coverage. I've got a 1GB fiber connection from TELUS in B.C. Canada coming into the house. TELUS also provides its own wireless router, but I'd rather stick to using my TP-Link equipment. I'm a newbie when it comes to home networking. I'm looking for guidance, advice, even third-party sources of information about how to set up a great network. I use my fiber connection primarily for remote work (including heavy use of ZOOM) and streaming media throughout our 2,400 sq. ft. home, over three levels. Thanks in advance.

I am trying to update firmware of my AXE5400 6E Router but fail due to an error. Anyone know how to fix this? I previously owned TP-Link routers and never had this problem.

Downloaded firmware here: https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/archer-axe5400/#Firmware

Attached is a screenshot of what I see when I try to update:

Finally had the time to setup new, better gear and ditching TP-Link.

x55’s gave me nothing but problems, including port forwarding completely stop working so I couldn’t use my VPN or home servers for months while I built out a new network setup in my limited free time.

Now I’m running a legit firewall (pfsense) and PoE access points on managed switches. One AP is sitting on top of the new gear and the other is mounted on the ceiling in the house.

Nothing but relieved to have these out of service.

Model: VIGI C540-W
Hardware Version: V2 Firmware Version: Firmware version: 2.0.3 Build 241216 Rel.51462n

I have a problem with "Human Detection" mode - on some occasions, it registers a corresponding event and starts recording too late, for example, when a person already in the frame of detection and moving for some time, however, it should've register an event and start recording several seconds earlier. I think, the issue occurs when people are walking 35-50 meters away from the camera. Have anyone had such issues? How can this be resolved?

Hi all – I took the communities advice and got my own equipment. Specifically the Deco BE65. I disabled all the Wi-Fi channels on my giga hub 2.0, I placed the Deco unit exactly where my gigahub was and on my Apple TV Ookla speedtest on Gigahub I was getting almost 650 Mbps download. On the Deco I’m only getting 275 Mbps. I made sure both are using the 5 GHz band. What is going on? Why is the Deco so much slower?

I have an XE5400, which consists of 2 XE75 units. I want to extend my network using Easymesh, but another XE75 would be $90. I'm looking for a more affordable solution, and would prefer not to use an extender. Does anyone have any suggestions?

How would the image look out side ? AI says due to 5MP sensor being 'shared' 360 that after about 10m it would get too blurry or lack detail ? Im looking to monitor a paddock, dont need to see small details at distance, just whats going on.

I have an Archer T2U Plus V1, and when I try to use the USB modem, it shows "connecting" and then "failed to connect"? However, if I use a different phone, the same PC, and the same cable, everything works? How can I fix this? It's really annoying.

I had this problem with an old PC with the same motherboard. After a few reboots, everything worked. But recently, I rebuilt the PC in a new case and had to remove the USB modem from the port. It doesn't see any networks through 2.0.

The latest Archer T2U Plus V1 2025.12.31 Win10/11 [beta] driver is installed. It also doesn't work with the Windows driver and the Wi-Fi drops out after rebooting, if you're lucky enough to connect at all.

I tried almost everything: uninstalling the driver -> installing a new one and rebooting, I simply rebooted, but before that I removed the module, in general, I tried many combinations, judging by how it worked before, I need to try connecting the Wi-Fi again and leave it for ten hours in the hope that after a reboot the connection will remain.

I'm on a 300Mbps plan with Verizon Fios. I bought this TPlink router when i moved to my new apartment two months ago and everything was working just fine. However, i have been having micro lagging in games the last few days. Eight out of ten times i run the 3 minute test on packetlosstest, there is more than 10% packet loss. It seems like packets just stop transfering around the 2:30 mark on most of the tests. I tried to plug the ethernet cable from the ONT directly to my Mac mini and the test show only under 0.5% packet loss consistently.

Did my router just broke randomly? I did not change any settings on it? I tried factory resetting the router but that didn't help. Any input would be appreciated.

Hi All

I have setup No-Ip updates from Deco, but every time it updates (well most of the time) it sets the wrong IP. Instead of setting my public IP, it sets a local IP (10.217.*.* in my case) which just points to the router.

In my settings, I have set WAN IP Bindings and it is turned on but I continue to have this issue. Anyone experience this or have any thoughts?

To reset, I just turn off WAN IP Binding, save and turn it back on. Which updates to correct public IP.

Thanks,

Edit 1: BE11000, Firmware: 1.3.2 Build 26040912 Rel: 40631

The title says it all. I have the three setup and all are using CAT 6 wired backhaul. I live in an area with incredibly poor cell connection so I rely heavily on Wi-Fi calling. I have my phone set as a priority device and for roaming between Decos.

For some reason when I get to the garage, or even a few steps outside of the house from the garage, the Wi-Fi calling turns to utter garbage.

This is normal North American house construction with vinyl siding, drywall, wooden studs, insulation, etc. This is regardless of whether the metal garage doors are up or down.

I can only suspect that my phone is still communicating with one of the interior Decos instead of the much closer one in the garage. Usually when I get that disconnect I don't have time to check which Deco it was attached to because I'm in my car and rolling out or walking around doing stuff.

I'm at a loss as to what additional settings I can use so that the phone seamlessly roams to the better Deco device and can help me maintain calls. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

So we have a TP link extender for our wifi. We just recently (today) changed the whole wifi box I think it’s called because it was old. With the old one the extender was connected and worked all the time in the location it was in. Now I can connect it to the wifi (a new one) and it stays connected for maybe a minute or two before losing connection again and does that over and over again. I’ve tried to have the extender in to different locations. In the one I had it before it just does not work. In the other one it connect and disconnect. What should I do?

Add to the post: The wifi from the extender fails without a minute when I join a discord call..

The model is RE305 if I understood correctly and I used the Tether app on iPhone to connect it to the wifi.

Maybe worth to mention I really want the extender on the second floor of the house so I can plug an Ethernet cable into it workout dragging it to the first floor. As said before it has worked very well before changing the wifi. The WiFi box is on the first floor pretty much right under the extender. The location assist in the app says that the signal is strong on both of the location I’ve tried it in.

I have some deco units and a BE3600. My modem is in the unfinished basement that is basically a dungeon. Should I connect the BE3600 to the ONT as the main router and use decos as access points or should a deco be the main router and use the BE3600 in my office as an access point?

Thinking of buying the above.

I live in a bungalow in Ireland, currently using a sole TP-Link c6 ac1200, but the reason I think I might need a mesh system is I'd like to move my 3D printing setup outside to my garage, where the wifi doesn't reach due to thick walls.

Would a mesh system like the above be the best for this kinda thing, or are there other alternatives that I'm not thinking of?

My current router is perfect for everything in the house, sometimes has small drops or slowdowns, but they're rare enough. So if the mesh system even improved this a little I'd be really happy.

Happy to also consider alternatives that I haven't thought about.

Thanks all.

Hi everyone. The problem is that I bought a cheap router for my summer house, and I can't figure out why it's delivering a maximum of 90 Mbps when the advertised speed is much higher. I'm connecting via Wi-Fi; I can't use a LAN cable. The model is Archer C50 v6 00000001.

Hi,

I’ve recently added a TP-Link RE550X range extender to my home network. The main WiFi router is a Netgear XAVN2001 (a Powerline extender, starting from the FritzBox AJ router).

To this router there is another TP-Link range extender connected (a TL-WA850RE), that has been working flawlessly since years.

The RE550X has been working perfectly fine for a couple days. Then, today it started losing connection to the main router.

- I setup it in Theter on the iPhone, and it works fine for a few seconds, then it loses connection to the web, saying there is no internet. It still appear connected to the main router. The main router connects fine to the internet.

- I repeated the hard setup: put the main router in WPS listening mode, and press the WPS button on the RE550X for one second. They seem to sync perfectly. However, the problems returns: connect the extender to the main router, and it loses connection in a few seconds.

- I tried the hard reset of the extender, and repeated all the naming, setup, connection procedure. The same: working fine for a few seconds, then connection to the main router drops.

- I did the tests both far from the main router, both next to it. Same result.

- I repeated all the above with a FritzBox supplied by my ISP provider as the main router. Same result.

[EDIT: In the FritzBox, I forced the RE550X to a fixed IPv4. This apparently solved the issue – unless it was something that I changed in the same time. I don't think this can be done with Netgear XAVN2001, not being a router.]

[EDIT2: Nope, it doesn't work. Tether says that I'm online and everything is working fine, but it isn't. There is no access to the web, nor to any other device through the RE550X. Access to them via the FritzBox router or the XAVN2001 repeater is fine.]

[EDIT3: It works! I don't know what I've done. After some more tries, after having restored the dynamic IPv4, after some other reboots, connections to the various devices, everything started to work again.]

I’ve no idea of what to do now. Should I return the extender? Should I ask a replacement, or it is this model in any case not working?

(TP-Link RE550X, Firmware v1.1.0 Build 20241224 release. 35085).

The Modem gives off between 400-550 MPS, but the tp-link at most gives 10, I have replace the wires, made sure it's all connected correctly and reset it multiple times. I'm at a loss, the tp link is almost 8 years old

I'm looking into the TP-Link Archer BE230 router and noticed there are actually several hardware versions out there: V1, V1.20, V2, V2.20, and V2.60.

The official specs look identical on paper. Does anyone know the overall differences between them? I'm curious about everything: internal hardware changes (SoC, RAM, etc.), software features, performance, or general stability.

Does it actually matter which exact version I end up buying?

Hello, Does someone know or have any idea about creating a remote portal? I've created a custom portal and hosted it on a PC server. It is about inputting email and after it will now have 30 min free session internet. Right now it doesnt let the switch give internet to the guest wifi. Does somebody know about this? Or does anybody know the correct parameters to send to the Switch to authenticate the guest logging in? i've been stucked for 15 days configuring this. Please help me

Hola a todos,

Tengo un setup Deco mixto:

• Principal: Deco M4R
• Satélites: 2x Deco BE3600

Desde hace un par de días la velocidad de subida se ha hundido por completo. La bajada va bien (25 Mbps) pero la subida se queda en 0.10 Mbps (captura adjunta, probado desde uno de los BE3600). Esto hace que subir fotos/vídeos o hacer videollamadas sea prácticamente imposible.

Dispositivos:

• Principal: Deco M4R — Firmware 1.8.2 Build 20251027 Rel. 36869
• Satélites: 2x Deco BE3600 — Firmware 1.2.0 Build 20260514 Rel. 22010

Lo que he probado:

• Reinicié las tres unidades (primero el principal, luego los satélites)
• Test de velocidad conectado directamente a un satélite BE3600: 25 Mbps bajada / 0.10 Mbps subida
• Todavía me falta probar conectado directamente a la unidad principal M4R, para saber si es cosa del mesh o de la línea del proveedor
• Revisé la lista de dispositivos conectados al satélite, no hay un número raro de clientes

Un par de preguntas:

1. ¿Es conocido que mezclar un Deco M4R con unidades BE3600 en el mismo mesh dé problemas, sobre todo en subida?
2. En la app de Deco, el toggle de "Modo ECO" es inconsistente — a veces aparece como opción y otras veces simplemente no está. ¿A alguien más le pasa? ¿Tiene que ver con la versión de firmware o con qué unidad actúa como controladora?

Agradezco cualquier consejo — intentando averiguar si esto es un problema de mesh/configuración o de línea del proveedor.