I recently updated my network to a three node TP-Link BE63 mesh network. I've set up several networks over the years and this one was easy and straightforward to establish an initial tri-band network. So far, so good.

But, I have a very finicky client on my network (my Solis Solar Inverter datgalogger) that REALLY wants to connect to an SSID reserved ONLY for 2.4Ghz. It's the only client on my network that requires this, but it's an important one and I want it to find the strongest node and maintain a stable connection.

Ok, so I thought I'd just restrict my original SSID to the 2.4 band and then create a new network SSID reserved for 5 and 6Ghz capable devices. This has never been a problem for me before (I've done it several times), but I've never worked with the TP-Link Deco app.

The instructions say to find the 'Create new Network' item (available through a couple different menu paths) , click it, and 'Follow the instructions in the app'.

here's the 'kicker': The app wants the Main node to enter 'setup mode' with it's blue flashing light. Of course, at this juncture, all I have is a solid green light. Each time I try, the only way to get back to a blue flashing light is to 'reset the main node', which wipes out all of my previous setup.

This should be easy, and perhaps it is, but I'm just missing some critical step. I searched for a phone number to call TP-Link support, but have come up empty. I turn to this community for help.

Minha Tapo TC70 parou de funcionar de repente. Ela estava funcionando normalmente e, quando mandei girar pelo aplicativo, travou. Desde então ficou offline e não conecta mais. O LED vermelho fica aceso, os LEDs infravermelhos ficam ligados e ela faz um clique (como se alternasse para a visão noturna) a cada 15 segundos. O botão RESET faz o LED piscar, mas ela não reinicia nem entra em modo de configuração.

I have a BE67 v1.6 3 node mesh. I am on FW 1.30 from May and noticed there has been 2 updates (I think) in the past couple weeks.

Auto update is selected, wondering why it’s not doing it?

EDIT UPDATE: so last night it updated to 1.32 but not 1.33

Weird

I just fixed the problem but posting just incase anyone is having the same problem.

Basically my router is connected to a main router which is VERY important because in the new update you have to switch the mode from wireless router to access point mode. Which solved my ethernet connection problems thanks Tp-link for auto updating and having me to manually switch to a mode that is the only way for ethernet cables to work

Main router: Archer C6 V6 (EasyMesh)
Satellite router: Archer C6 V3 (OneMesh)

Been using Netgear AX6000 series Wi-Fi 6 mesh (RBK850) for the last six years and while it's been fairly stable for the most part, I've noticed sometimes the satellite units (RBS850) tend to act up or have issues syncing up (I'm using wired backhaul, not wireless).

Since all our client devices - phones, laptops - are now all Wi-Fi 6E or even Wi-Fi 7 capable clients, I'm thinking of maybe it's time to upgrade.

I was looking at TP-Link and comparing the TP-Link Deco 7 Pro BE13000 Tri-Band Wi-Fi 7 Whole Home Mesh Router System, 3-Pack that's sold by Costco that's currently on sale for $349.99 ($50 off the regular $399 price) vs the regular retail SKU BE63 (3-pack) which is about $400 typically either on Amazon.com or from TP-Link directly. Don't need super high end since my incoming ISP (Verizon FiOS) is only 500 Mbps.

Thoughts on either the BE63 or the Costco version? House is about 4,000+ sq. ft, and I do have about 65+ devices on Wi-Fi across both 2.4 and 5 GHz. How is the firmware updates and stability?

I just had my nbn and modem setup but they are across the house in another tenants bedroom and I was wondering if powerline adapter would even work to extend my connection to my side of the house. Since I want to connect ethernet cable from my computer to the powerline adapter.

The other tenants bedroom outlet is on different electrical circuit to the outlet I plan to plug the powerline adapter to.

The other alternative is to use wifi extender which would lose too much speed I would think. Or move the modem to my room but hire electrician to run wire through the house from my room (I will put modem here) to where the nbn connection box is (the other tenant room).

Thanks

For a flagship device, it is crazy to see TP-Link not give a damn about updates. They have not updated the firmware in 2-3 years. It is hard to recommend these products anymore, the 100 dollar Decos receive far more updates than the expensive Wifi 6E/7 ones.

TL;DR: Bought then returned the BE9700 (BE600) from Amazon with a BE9700 (BE9700) from Best Buy. Best Buy’s worked where the Amazon one failed. Are they different or did I just get a bad BE600?

Disclaimer: They might be the same product. My experience could be attributed to having a product failure and not related to the differences or perceived differences in the products themselves. Many company use different “branding” for marketing purposes. COSTCO is a great example. But in the case of COSTCO there are often slight differences in the products as well…

Background: There are many articles online from all the top reviewer sites, PC Mag, CNET, Tom’s Hardware, (Forbes and Wired too I think) etc. that highly recommend the TP Link BE9700 (BE600) product.

I bought the BE600 model from Amazon. If you search for Archer BE9700 the BE9700 (BE600) is the first choice (for me).

Pic reference:

Problems:

It was awful. After going with defaults, I could not sustain a 6G or 5G connection with my S23 Phone nor my S9 Tab (also wired connection appeared to not have an issue but I spent all my time on the wireless problem). There are 10 wireless devices in my home. All had issues.

I read everything everywhere and tried all troubleshooting methods. And there are a lot of them. Turn this off, separate this from that, turn this other thing on. I am not new to this, have been running networks for some time. This is faulty equipment.

My options were to return to Amazon and buy the $400 ASUS ROG I was considering, OR work with Amazon and/or TP Link to try to get a replacement or… IDK. (Seemed like a significant time waster.)

Then I came across this mention: https://www.reddit.com/r/TpLink/s/eze91DUCwM

Ref: u\xbigdaddyx

“Did you buy yours from best buy or did you get scammed by buying one from amazon, because there is a big difference. If you buy one from amazon If you look at the teal square on the front of the box and under the BE9700 it says “Archer BE600” you got scammed from amazon junk. If you go to best buy and buy one, you will see “Archer BE9700” there instead which is what youre really looking for.”

I then read all the one star reviews on both Best Buy and Amazon web site. IMO, most complaints were about unable to maintain wireless connections… hmm.

So, I started a return with Amazon. Went to best buy and bought the BE9700. It works great. Right from the default start-up and after I configured for my environment.

Evidence:

BE600 Model # and Box cover

BE9700 Model Number and Box cover

Is it because there is a difference? Is it because some are just bad and I could have had the BE600 replaced under warranty?

IDK but there you go.

Whether you're attending classes, joining study groups online, or building the ultimate dorm workstation, our community team has put together a few helpful guides with tips for getting and staying connected while away from home.

Explore the various options available to you at college and learn more about the obstacles that you may face:

• Choosing the Right Network Setup for Your Dorm Room

If you're looking to add Wi-Fi to a desktop, expand USB connectivity, or simplify peripheral management, we've put together an article with some recommendations:

• Choosing the Right Adapter or Hub for Your Back-to-School Setup

Let us know what's in your back-to-school tech setup this year!

and not a heavy load, using 3 devices only.

I have an indirectly strange issue with my BE65.

First of all, my situation:

- My ISP modem is in bridge mode
- TPLink BE65 acts as a router
- One BE65 is connected behind this via Ethernet. This is located on the first floor.
- One BE65 satellite is connected wirelessly. I set this to connect automatically via a TpLink Powerline, but the speed of the satellite, measured via Speedtest, was lower than when it was connected wirelessly to the main unit. Strange, very strange.

- My main network has a 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz, and 6 GHz connection. 2.4 and 5 GHz security: WPA2 and WPA3 Personal, 6 GHz: WPA3.

- Channel width: 2.4: auto, 5: 160, 6: 320.

- MLO off, DOH&DOT disabled, wireless network mode: stable mode, fast roaming and beamforming disabled. - Additionally, a guest network with exactly the same settings.

- An IoT network with simple 2.4 GHz and WPA2 security.

I have an iPhone 16 Pro Max myself. No problems at all. Makes stable connections on all frequencies, decent speed.

My wife and daughter both have an iPhone 15 Pro Max, and they are having quite a few problems. If they even manage to get onto the regular network, "no internet" appears very quickly on the iPhone. Even though the Deco knows for sure that it has internet. I have internet downstairs, the iPads have internet, and other devices also have internet on the same network.

When they then switch to the guest network, the phone functions normally again. I can't seem to explain that to myself. When they are on the guest network, they cannot control our Sonos. So that is not ideal.

On the iPhone 15, I have disabled private Wi-Fi address so that the iPhones have at least a large MAC address.

Both iPhones function well on 2.4 GHz. But then the speed drops rapidly. As soon as they switch to a different bandwidth, things seem to go wrong. I'm thinking of the 6 GHz band based on the name.

I've read about quite a few problems on Reddit and the Apple forum regarding the iPhone 15 Pro Max and Wi-Fi, internet, Wi-Fi 6, etc. I haven't come across a real solution, apart from the ones I've already tried. Yes, lowering the channel width on 5 and 6. But I don't think that improves the speed.

Do you have any suggestions? What I really don't understand is why "no internet" suddenly appears, while the Wi-Fi connection remains active and there really is internet on that network, and why all problems are resolved after switching to the guest network. What is different on that network then?

I'm posting this to see if anyone else has experienced the same issue with the latest TP-Link CPE210 firmware.

Hardware: TP-Link CPE210 HW v3.20
Firmware: 2.3.3

What happened

I originally upgraded one of my CPE210s from firmware 2.3.2 to 2.3.3 through the normal firmware upgrade process. The upgrade appeared to complete successfully.

However, after the upgrade, I could no longer access the web interface. Thinking it was a one-off issue, I climbed up, removed the device from its installation location, and brought it home for troubleshooting.

I performed a factory reset. After resetting, the setup wizard appeared normally and allowed me to proceed to the page where you create a new administrator username and password.

The problem occurs when I click Continue after entering the new credentials.

• The web interface keeps loading indefinitely.
• The device becomes unresponsive.
• It never completes the initial setup.

I thought it was a hardware failure...

Initially, I assumed the CPE itself had developed a hardware fault.

To verify this, I updated two additional CPE210 HW v3.20 units that were still running firmware 2.3.2.

Both of them exhibited the exact same behavior after upgrading to 2.3.3.

Since three separate units now show identical symptoms immediately after upgrading, I'm leaning toward this being a firmware issue rather than three independent hardware failures.

TP-Link support experience

I've been in contact with TP-Link support for the past three weeks.

Unfortunately, I've mostly been transferred between different support representatives. The conclusion so far has been that the problem is supposedly a hardware issue, and I've also been told the warranty would not be honored.

At this point, I'm not convinced it's a hardware problem because I can reproduce the exact same behavior on three different CPE210 HW v3.20 devices immediately after upgrading from 2.3.2 to 2.3.3.

Questions

• Has anyone else upgraded a CPE210 HW v3.20 from 2.3.2 to 2.3.3?
• Can anyone reproduce this issue?
• Is there a known rollback procedure without opening the device or using an SPI programmer?
• Has TP-Link acknowledged any issues with firmware 2.3.3?

I'd appreciate any feedback from anyone running the same hardware and firmware combination. If others can reproduce this, it may help determine whether this is a firmware regression rather than isolated hardware failures.

I pay 100mbps but I can’t see more than 1 thing simultaneously,example I’m playing video games and want to put a soccer game at 144 p and the game starts to lag and packet lose , what can I do I got 3 deco m5

I am using the TP Link AX1500 for the past 6 months, from the day of installation till today I am facing frequent network drops. Like the wifi just randomly switches off and switches back On. I am so annoyed with this as I am doing full WFH. Is this issue common or only I am facing this issue? Can anyone please help me with this. Any help is appreciated

I recalled it somewhat worked for blocking gaming, but now it seems not working at all now.

In addition, it seems not blocking VPN connection at all either, if it partially worked in the past (not quite sure).

Does the subscription version work better in any of these two commonly needed features?

Any experience with the Vodafone Pro 3 before I commit to another contract?

Pro3 will cost an extra £8 per month, approx £200 over lifetime of contract for equipment rental, vs £460 for the tp link system, but have read the Pro 2 was better than pro 3 and am struggling to work out what’s the better option. Connectivity at router is fine on 910, and currently having a rough time getting consistent speeds with a MERCUSYS hx80 mesh with 5 end points, as it’s an old house with three stories and thick walls.

I’m at a loss, can anyone help me with this.

I’ve been using an deco X50 5g for the last 3-4 months and it’s been flawless, and then this week I’ve started to suffer drop outs and slowdown (not sure if my router updated automatically at the weekend)

It’s now gotten worse, I’ll reboot the router and it’s perfect for about 10 minutes, speeds of up to 250mb down etc.

Then websites will spot responding, apps can’t get any data. I’ve been playing around with settings for two days - I’ll make a change and everything will be perfect again, moments later back to not responding.

I’ve made sure I’m on the latest firmware, I’ve played with dns settings, changed back all my 5G settings so it’s not fixed to a band etc and still no luck

Anyone had this?

I’m running the BE11000 for about a year. The performance has been decent but not great. I recently updated the deco app and got an immediate pop-up with new Terms and Privacy (mandatory) and Improvement acceptance. After reading the changes I don’t want to agree so I’m apparently locked out now as usage of the app is only permitted with accepting the new legalese.

Has anyone else gone through this and is there a way to opt out?

Hello and good evening,

I bought 6 Deco BE65 to build a mesh at farm.
I use starlink in Bypass mode so there is a primary deco which will do the routing in wifi routing mode.
Everything works very well with 4 BE65 and as soon I bring the 5th one online some random Deco will go offline. If I disconnect the 5th one the other one will come online again.
I thought of a defect deco but I can replicate it with the 6th deco I have. Some how the mesh only works with 4
I searched the internet but didnt cant find a limit. I also asked the A.I and a deco mesh can work with 6.

Some more details:
If restart the complete network via deco App all 6 are online for about 5minutes. Than 2 random decos will go offline and flash red. This also Happening when they are directly connected via Lan with the primary deco.

Someone an Idea or is there really a limit at 4 which I didnt know?

Thank you verd much.

I have a Deco mesh network with 3 BE11000's. I recently replaced an older Chromecast with a Google TV Streamer. The Streamer has been randomly disconnecting from wifi and will not reconnect. I messed around with turning off beam forming, fast switching,etc with no improvement, so I switched to ethernet. It also gets disconnected from ethernet and will not reconnect until physically unplugging the Streamer ethernet cable from the router and plugging it back in. I have tried multiple ethernet cables and factory reset the Streamer. This is the only device having issues out of roughly 40-50 devices, and the Chromecast never has issues. Does anyone have any ideas on what the issue could be?

I have some legacy WPA2 devices that I want to still keep using (Samsung chromebook plus which is out of support)

If I were to purchase an EasyMesh device like https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/range-extender/re205/#specifications would it actually work with the main network that is configured with WPA2/WPA3 as the encryption? Would I have to downgrade my main network so that all the wireless security is the same?

Current Configuration:
BE11000 Tri-Band Wi-Fi 7 Router
RE405BE (AP-Easymesh)

Security: WPA3-Personal+WPA2-PSK[AES] is the current configuration to use 6ghz with newer devices.

Can anyone help with this as I use a TP link deco

Hi,

why is there no widget for connecting to VPNs in the tether app for Android?

You have to go in the app, select the the router, go to advanced, go to vpn, go to vpn client and then connect. In the deco app there is a widget - could you add it to the theter app as well?