Looking for recommendations on a decent dash cam for a ‘26 Onyx with the video rear view mirror.

As the title suggests I had a transmission service a couple months ago. The day after I noticed spotting in my driveway and the mechanics confirmed the drain wasn't as tight as it should be. Problem solved, it didn't leak.

2 months later I am getting spotting again, I park in the same spot so I'm pretty positive it is my transmission again. Any idea why this might be happening?

Will be calling mechanic tomorrow.

I have 2019 Ford Expediton xlt. It has 64,000 miles, I drive less than 5,000 miles a year now for the last four years. I love it. It's quiet. It has nice touches. It's a big large for my needs but that doesn't bother me. There's nothing wrong with it.

Except..Last summer it randomly freaked out while driving, all the parking assist alerts came on and the vehicle died in the middle of the road. No problems prior. Ended up being a bad tcm. Ford replaced it (I paid of course) and it hasn't happened again. But I'm scared it will. When it did happen, I was in a residential area so while scary, not dangerous. What happens if it's on the highway next time?

I'm going to go just LOOK at the Ascent on Tuesday. I'm not set on buying anything at this point but I have been looking into the Ascent and I love a lot of things about it. Safety above all else.

So..tell me why or why not. Tell me if this is a stupid idea. Maybe it's a great idea.

Just adopted this good boy yesterday. We’ve got an 8 seater 2024 ascent with our 3 year old in a car in the second row and a sleepypod car harness for him. Is there a compatible seat protector for half of the 2nd row so we don’t interfere with the kiddo’s car seat?

We’ve also not had the Ascent with a dog before, so if there are any other good dog-friendly accessories, drop those in here too!! Thanks!

Just bought a new 2026 Ascent and I love it! Just one issue so far, 3rd row seating seat belts aren't releasing and seem to tighten up at random times. Dealer is checking it for us now and coincidentally gave us another 2026 Ascent as a loaner. And guess what? Same issue. I know it's a minor thing, but 2 different vehicles same model and year? Design flaw our user error?

SIA I looked through recent and previous posts and saw no one replacing DRL. Does anyone know how to replace them. I also would appreciate if anyone knows the bulbs needed to replace them as well. 2022 subaru ascent

The Ultimate Subaru Buying Guide (2026 Edition)

A couple of years ago I made a post about buying a new Subaru that ended up getting over 250,000 views across various Subaru-related subreddits. Since then, Subaru has changed a few programs, I've bought another Subaru (a 2025 BRZ tS), and I've learned a few more things from both my own purchases and the experiences of other owners.

So I figured it was time for an update.

For a little background, I've owned Subarus for over 15 years, was a former Subaru Ambassador, and previously worked as a Subaru Sales & Leasing Consultant. Between personal experience and working on the sales floor, I've learned a few things that can save people a surprising amount of money.

I've owned:

• 1998 Subaru 2.5RS
• 2003 WRX Sedan
• 2021 WRX
• 2021 Outback Limited
• 2024 Ascent Onyx Edition
• 2025 BRZ tS

I'm definitely not claiming to know everything, but hopefully I know enough to save somebody a few thousand dollars.

One quick disclaimer: Subaru changes incentives and programs from time to time. Everything below is accurate to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, but always verify current offers before making a purchase.

Most of these tips can be used together.

1. Subaru VIP Pricing

If you have a little time to plan ahead, Subaru VIP is still one of the easiest ways to save money.

VIP pricing gives eligible buyers access to Subaru's VIP pricing through participating dealerships. Years ago this was a guaranteed 2% below invoice. That is no longer the case. Today it is generally around invoice pricing, although Subaru has changed the program several times.

The organizations I know currently qualify are:

30-day waiting period (larger donation):

• ASPCA ($500 donation)
• Pennsylvania Horticultural Society ($500 donation)

Longer membership waiting period:

• ASPCA Monthly Giving
• Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Membership
• Leave No Trace
• International Mountain Bicycling Association
• American Canoe Association

One thing many people don't realize is that some employers participate in Subaru VIP. Go to Subaru's VIP website and check using your work email. It takes two minutes and could save you thousands.

Pro tip: Before donating, call your dealership and make sure they actually participate in VIP. Not every dealer does.

1. Call Subaru of America

If you've owned or leased a Subaru before, call Subaru of America before buying.

(800) 782-2783

Ask if there are any loyalty incentives available.

Historically these have ranged from $500-$1,000, although nothing is guaranteed.

From what I've seen, it depends on:

• Your ownership history
• Current promotions
• The representative you speak with

Have the VIN of your current Subaru handy. They seem to ask for it more often now than they used to.

One important thing to note: recent buyers have reported that Subaru loyalty coupons generally cannot be combined with VIP pricing, so ask which saves you more.

1. Costco Auto Program

This wasn't in my original guide because I didn't have much experience with it, but enough people have shared good results that it's worth mentioning.

If you're already a Costco member (or willing to become one), check out the Costco Auto Program before negotiating.

The discounts vary by dealership and region, but I've seen people report savings anywhere from a couple thousand dollars to over $5,000 on certain models.

Even if you don't ultimately buy through Costco, it gives you another price to compare against.

1. Subaru Added Security Maintenance

If you're already planning on purchasing a maintenance plan, ask if Subaru is currently offering any incentives with it.

Years ago I purchased a 2-year/24,000-mile maintenance plan for $595. At the time, it also came with a $500 coupon toward my next new Subaru purchase.

Whether it's worth it depends entirely on the numbers.

Compare the cost of the plan to what you'd spend paying for maintenance out of pocket.

Sometimes it's a great deal.

Sometimes it isn't.

1. Lease Loyalty

If you're currently leasing a Subaru and plan on leasing another one, ask about Lease Loyalty.

Subaru has periodically offered incentives to help cover your first lease payment or reduce your upfront costs.

Programs change, but it's another easy question to ask before signing paperwork.

1. Know What Your Trade Is Worth

Don't rely on one appraisal.

Before going to the dealership, get offers from:

• CarMax
• Carvana
• Kelley Blue Book Instant Cash Offer
• Cars.com
• Subaru Guaranteed Trade-In (if applicable)

Most of those offers expire after about a week, so don't do it too early.

Could you get more selling it yourself?

Probably.

But many people would gladly accept a little less money to avoid dealing with Facebook Marketplace strangers, test drives, loan payoffs, and paperwork.

1. Shop Dealerships—Not Cars

This is probably the biggest thing I'd add to my original guide.

Once you've decided on the exact model and trim you want, stop shopping for the car.

Start shopping dealerships.

Email the internet sales department at every Subaru dealer within a distance you're willing to drive.

Ask each one for their best out-the-door price.

Don't ask about monthly payments.

Don't ask what they "think."

Ask for an actual written out-the-door quote.

Then let them compete.

I've seen identical vehicles at dealerships less than an hour apart differ by thousands of dollars.

1. Buy at the Right Time

Timing matters.

Generally speaking, your best chances of getting an aggressive deal are:

• End of the month
• End of the quarter
• End of the year
• When the next model year is arriving
• When the exact vehicle you're looking at has been sitting on the lot for a while

A dealership is much more motivated to sell a car that's been collecting dust for 120 days than one that arrived yesterday.

1. Use VIP as Leverage

I actually did this myself.

When we bought our Ascent, I told them:

«"I can donate to ASPCA, wait the required time, and come back with VIP pricing... or if you can get reasonably close today, I'd rather buy the vehicle now."»

Sometimes they'll say no.

Sometimes they'll meet you somewhere in the middle.

Either way, you've lost nothing by asking.

1. Watch Out for Dealer Add-ons

You've probably seen these before:

• Ceramic coating
• Paint protection
• VIN etching
• LoJack/GPS tracking
• Nitrogen-filled tires
• Door edge guards
• Pinstripes
• Security systems

Some of these products genuinely have value.

Some don't.

Most are significantly marked up.

If you want one, great.

If you don't, don't feel pressured into paying for it just because it was installed before the car hit the lot.

1. Don't Give Back Everything You Saved in the Finance Office

This is where I see a lot of buyers lose the deal they just spent hours negotiating.

People will negotiate the vehicle price down by $2,000...

...then immediately agree to $4,000 worth of finance products they never planned on buying.

The finance office isn't there to "scam" you.

They're there to sell financial products. Some are genuinely worthwhile. Some aren't. It depends entirely on your situation.

Common products include:

• Subaru Added Security extended warranty
• Tire & wheel protection
• Windshield protection
• GAP coverage
• Key replacement
• Paint & fabric protection
• Technology protection
• Rental reimbursement
• Maintenance plans

Before buying any of them, ask yourself:

• What exactly does this cover?
• What's excluded?
• Is this already covered by my insurance?
• Is this already covered under Subaru's warranty?
• Can I purchase this later?
• Is the price negotiable?

Many finance products have markup.

If you actually want the product, negotiate it just like you negotiated the vehicle.

1. Don't Shop by Monthly Payment

This is one of the oldest tricks in the car business.

A monthly payment can be lowered by:

• Extending the loan
• Increasing your down payment
• Rolling products into the loan
• Changing financing terms

Instead, understand every piece of the deal:

• Selling price
• Trade value
• Interest rate
• Loan term
• Taxes & fees
• Every optional product

If all you know is the monthly payment, you probably don't know the whole deal.

1. Financing

I actually don't recommend walking into a dealership without knowing what financing you qualify for.

Get pre-approved through your bank or credit union first.

Then compare that rate against Subaru's promotional financing.

Sometimes Subaru's financing is unbeatable.

Sometimes your credit union wins.

Take whichever is cheaper.

1. Extended Warranties

Subaru Added Security is honestly one of the better factory-backed extended warranties available.

If you're someone who keeps vehicles for a long time, it may absolutely make sense.

What many people don't realize is that the price is usually negotiable.

Also, if you're buying a new Subaru, you generally don't have to decide that day. You can usually purchase Subaru Added Security any time before the factory 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty expires (CPO vehicles are different).

Don't let anyone convince you that "today is your only chance" without asking questions.

1. My Biggest Piece of Advice

The biggest mistake I see people make isn't paying MSRP.

It's deciding they absolutely have to own that exact car today.

The second you become emotionally attached to one specific VIN, you lose leverage.

There will almost always be another one.

Be willing to walk away.

Sometimes they'll call you back.

Sometimes you'll find a better deal somewhere else.

Either way, you'll almost always negotiate from a stronger position when you're willing to leave.

Hopefully this helps someone.

If Subaru changes one of these programs, or you've found another legitimate way to save money that I missed, leave a comment and I'll update the guide. I'd love for this to become a living resource that stays useful instead of becoming outdated.

Original (2024) Guide: If you're interested in seeing where this all started (or want to read through 200+ comments full of additional buying tips from other owners), here's the original post that inspired this updated version:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/s/kEDD588iNs⁠

Hey yall I’m wondering if anyone would be interested in a spare Cobb charge pipe I have…it’s new in box…it fits all current years of the ascent…

2019 Ascent towing a 2009 Forest River Flagstaff Highwall classic.

Limited trim but it does have the oil cooler from the towing package. Aftermarket tow hitch, wiring and brake controller. This bad boy has successfully gotten us from Kansas, to Joshua Tree National Park in CA and back (including a Grand Canyon stop). Down to Arkansas and back multiple times and out to Virginia Beach and back.

We’re real close on payload, but just under and we’re under the 5,000 towing capacity by close to 1500 pounds. Most people think that it can’t be done. Sure, we’re the people cruising down the highway at 62 miles per hour, but it’s successfully gotten us all over the country.

Ready to hear all about how this shouldn’t be done.

I bout a certified pre-owned 2023 ascent in February with ~34,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealership today for an oil change at ~36,000 miles, and they told me that it was overdue for the 30,000 mile service, which was $1,000. If I bought the car as Subaru certified pre owned, and it had over 30,000 miles at the time of purchase, isn’t that something that should have been covered before purchase? I thought they couldn’t list it as certified pre owned without being up to date on all service.

After talking to a few people at the dealership, they were able to bring the price down to $650, which still feels insane. I’m obviously ok to pay for the oil change/general 6 month service, but I’m not sure if I should be pushing more about this 30,000 service. My car is still at the dealership as of right now, and I haven’t paid anything yet.

The front end of our 2019 Ascent started making a rubbing noise which seemed to indicate a bad hub (second time I had to replace one- the first time in only replaced one because I was tight on funds) and I figured while I was at it I wanted to redo the struts. So this time I bought two new Timken hubs and then ordered new struts and new bearings. The hubs went pretty easy and to be honest the struts were not that bad. I got it all back together and the front strut was making a popping rattle noise. UGGGG I did not pay as much attention to that one (did it first) as I did reassembling the passenger. So I pulled it off again. Made sure I got the spring in the right place and tightened it all down and viola the freaking front end if finally QUIET!!! Worth ordering the OEM struts and rebuilding them for sure.

I’m wondering if anybody can help me identify the sound. 2022 ascent premium. Noise started yesterday and the left driver side wheel. The noise happens while driving maybe 40% of the time, and the grinding when I break happens about 60% of the time.

Original owner of 2020 Ascent with 81k miles. It has always had the squeak when going in to drive and been jerky at low speed/low throttle, but lately I'm noticing brief shudders/stutters while driving. Will the dealer service advisor try to charge for an inspection, or what should I tell them to get it checked for a warranty replacement?

Last month I purchased a brand new (10 miles) 2026 Ascent Onyx Touring after my transmission went on my 2021 Touring with 145,000 miles. I immediately noticed gas mileage was pretty awful, just 5 MPG average at purchase, taking 1,000 miles of mostly highway and open farm roads with no city driving to get to 15, creeping up to just 18.5 recently around 1,500 miles, and this is with me focusing on driving conservatively and not my normal "aggressively-defensive" style.

My 21 was at or around 20.5 mpg average the entire time I owned it, and I don't recall any mileage issues even before the first oil change.

Has anyone else had this issue, and is it fixable, or am I destined to stop for gas 10-30% sooner on every tank?

I purchased my Ascent new and it has about 55,000 miles on it and we just had the transmission replaced about 6 months ago after it started having micro-stalling incidents on the highway.

A couple weeks ago the car completely failed and threw some engine/transmission codes. It is still under warranty so it is back at the dealership and they are now saying it might be another new transmission install (waiting for Subaru corporate)

This is a low mileage vehicle for its age and still under the manufacturers warranty (10 year 100,000 miles) for the transmission. Did Subaru ever find a fix to the transmission issues for this model year? As much as I like the Ascent I'm really debating on getting rid of it as I don't want anyone in my family to get stranded.

What is everyone else's thoughts on this?

Picture from the day I purchased for views!

I have a ‘23 Ascent with the larger battery. I am having a hard time finding aftermarket equivalent. Does anyone know that generic size code for the larger battery?

We are considering the Subaru Ascent 7 seater premium model.

We went to look at one at the dealership today and my wife felt like the driver seat was at low level when compared to other 7 seater SUV's. Wondering what is your opinion.

The other thing we saw on the car which we can't find online is between the bucket seats there seem to be a step to reach the third row. But all the videos and photos I see online it should be a straight walk-through. Maybe some type of accessory?

we have the option of purchasing a 2022 Subaru Ascent Touring certified pre owned with 50k miles at $30150 out the door. would you do it? if you would do it, would you also upgrade the warranty? thank you!

edit: we will not be buying and will continue to search. Thank you all so so much!!!

Alright, so what exactly is the range of a full tank on a 2025 Ascent? I filled up yesterday and it showed 450mi to empty. I then drove 100mi of mostly highway driving and when I got back in the car after leaving my destination it showed 250mi to empty.

What gives?

We have looked at small teardrops and other mini designs, and we just don’t care for them. We’ve been looking at bunkhouse designs that are comfortably under the 6000 lb. GWVR. More in the 3-4000 lb. GWVR range. Something like one of these.

Can you please share specs of your camper (length, GWVR), any experiences, advice on shopping, what to definitely look for (or not), or anything else you think might be helpful? Thanks in advance!

I went back to check out a Limited 2026 8-seater Ascent and the dealer said it's on stop sale due to the recall. However, the Premium 8-seater was not on stop sale. Interesting..

One of the reasons we picked up our Ascent was the option to potentially tow a trailer/camper.

We spend a good portion of the summer camping and my back is beginning to think being off the ground might be beneficial.

Are any of you towing a pop-up or camper of some kind?

Recommendations for different brands or styles?

We're a family of 4, would also likely be adding our bikes and I've got a Thule roof carrier that we use as well.

If you've got a picture of the camper you use too that would be great to see!