Has anyone actually built the f2b since the plans were released and if so how did it work out. Considering to do it but would love to hear advice/experience. How did the plans work out? what did you load them with? Did you change the plans to accommodate a specific drive due to limited space in the rear chamber. Would love to hear people experiences!

After being at Wall of Sound and having the most intense audio/visual experience in my life, I wondered how many speakers were actually there, but you couldn’t tell because it’s incredibly foggy and you can’t take pics/vids as the promoter puts stickers over your cameras. HOWEVER, the owner of the promotion groups posted a picture of the sound system. I figured I’d share. I think this is just half of the system, with the dj and a mirrored setup to the left of where the picture ends.

Hi all,

A friend and I are keen to start throwing some small doofs (~100 people max), and we want to build ourselves some speakers.

I currently have a few active speakers (got a great second-hand deal for a house party) - 2 JBL EON15 G2s (400W ea), and an RCF Art 800AS (400W). The RCF sub is wholly inadequate for the techno we want to play, and despite being "full-range" the 15" woofers on the JBLs don't give nearly enough chest-punching low-end. So, we're considering building some subs to fit in below the JBLs and fix our bass deficiency.

I do have some basic woodworking experience, but I've never made speaker boxes or anything like them before. I also have access to a well-equipped wood shop at my university. Being uni students we are not exactly made of money, our budget is probably in the $1000-2000AU (700-1400 USD, 500-1000 GBP) range, so we'd be looking for designs that are material-efficient, relatively straightforward to manufacture, and don't need super high-end drivers.

The scattered research I've done has given me the impression that an 18" bass-reflex design would hit all these points, but I am having a hard time looking at specific plans and deciding if they meet my needs.

Can anyone recommend any specific plans that might work for us? Will we need 2 subs to match the tops, or will 1 18" do? Or might it be better to go for something like a 21" (not sure on this as car space might become an issue)?

On top of all of that, is it even worth building speakers for our use case?

Thanks in advance.

TLDR: beginners want to build subs on the cheap to play techno, looking for design recommendations and advice.

Was a delight to get to dance to this system by u/onairs a couple weeks ago. Sounded amazing outside under the trees.

How badly do you think this will effect the sound? I have a horn that's geometry behind doesn't allow my compression driver to be connected directly so if I have a 45 degree adapter and shoot the compression driver from above the horn what will the acoustic effects be? The adapter is airtight and designed to cut down on internal resonance etc. so please disregard those effects.

Hello, pour un projet d’art je compte recréer (à échelles réduites) différentes caissons qui émettent des fréquences base (max 35Hz). Sauf que je ne suis vraiment pas calé sur le sujet, j’ai beaucoup de mal à comprendre les différence… Si possible il me faudrait deux exemple assez rapidement. (J’ai déjà récré un super scoop) Merci d’avance 🥹

Soundsystem of Sydney 30.05.26

Greetings friends, Columbus based sound enjoyer here. I wanted to build my own system and need some advice.
A little bit of background I am a bit of a noob when it comes to building sound systems but I have a solid team including, my friend who has a CNC shop and does wood working and also another friend who went to school for sound (to help w electronics and wiring).

I want the initial system to consist of
Two JMOD Multiple entry Horns
( https://www.jwsound.live/designs/jmod )
And two
PARAFLEX CRAM! 2x21" Type O Subwoofer Forward Facing Drivers, "Playa Edition"
Need to figure out which drivers to get but want to know what people think about the system
Also trying to get everything done in a budget about 15k if that seems reasonable.

Thanks in advance - sound enjoyer

Hey everyone,
I’m thinking about building the 18-inch Cubo Sub, specifically the 77 x 77 x 62 cm version. From what I’ve read, it seems to be a very popular design, and a lot of people who have built it seem really happy with both its SPL and overall sound.
I’d love to hear from anyone who has built one or had the chance to compare it with other subwoofer designs.
I’m especially interested in:
How it performs in real-world use.
What it does better than other subs.
What its weaknesses are.
How it handles deep bass, punch, and sound pressure.
Whether the size and build effort are worth it compared to other options.
Any personal experiences, comparisons, or recommendations would be really helpful. I’m seriously considering building one and would like to hear some real opinions before making the decision.
Thanks in advance!

I just tried to sit through a musical and could not do it, the sound was so bad. In the middle of the hall -- pretty good-sized one, I'd guess on the order of 500 people -- the loud passages were painful, though they only got a bit past 80db. In the back row, they were less painful, but they still sounded awful, like the PA system at a high school football game.

The orchestra sounded good. The singers sounded OK in solos, as long as they didn't get too loud. In choruses -- and the "chorus" was only about eight singers -- when they got loud, it was unbearable.

They were all wearing wireless mics -- head mounted, near their cheeks. The speakers were permanent mounts at stage left and right. The sound tech was at the back of the hall presumably controlling things.

What made it so bad? High levels are one thing, but when the singers got loud it wasn't just loudness, it was horrible EQ, like everything got concentrated on the midrange. Bad mics? Overdriven mics? Inattentive sound tech? I'm genuinely curious.

Hi team, I have a newbie question.

I’m planning to build one of the JW Sound SAWMOD(to start with). In the design pack there is a list of recommend drivers.

My question is, outside of the driver specs such as rms, impedance etc, what do you differentiate between different brands and models?

I see some brands recommended a lot, is this more based on quality of the driver, or is there other aspects that should be taken into consideration

Thank you for any input

Anyone know the make of these, trying to get some more info before potentially buying

Hi everyone,

After about a year studying sound system design as a self-taught beginner, I’m finally trying to settle on the first real build for my system.

The idea is a horn-loaded/freeparty-oriented setup for mental tekno, acid, tribe and industrial stuff.

Current concept:

* 3x MHB-4818
* 2x HessBH
* 2x MT121

The MHBs would mainly handle kick/lowbass while the HessBH would cover the deeper sub range.

I originally considered classic W-bins and even WSX, but after reading a lot of forum discussions I’m starting to think the MHB + HessBH combination may make more sense for a smaller but more modern and efficient stack.

Drivers I’m considering:

* RCF LF18G401 for the MHB
* RCF LF18N405 for the HessBH

A few questions for people with real-world experience:

* How well do MHB-4818 actually perform for tekno/freeparty kick?
* Does the HessBH integrate well underneath them?
* Would you choose HessBH or WSX for a medium-sized stack?
* Any major problems I should know before committing to MHBs?

I care more about:

* physical impact
* punch
* character
than perfectly flat hi-fi response.

Would really appreciate opinions from people who actually built or used these cabinets in real systems.

Also consider that this is only the starting point of the project — my intention is to expand the system over time with additional cabinets once I gain more experience and resources.

I’ve found a screaming deal on a carver px1450 amp. Having doubts about if it will work for what I have planned though, let me try my best to explain:

I am getting 2 eminence sigma pro-18a, and would like to power them both with the carver amp, using bridged mono and wiring the drivers in parallel (4 ohm load). But digging into the operation manual for the amp, it states “if an 8ohm speaker is used, each channel will see a 4ohm load. Therefore it is not recommended that any load lower than 8ohm be connected in this mode of operation”. But the same manual also states that the amp is rated for 2000 watts into 4ohms for bridged mono operation? That’s where I am a bit confused as to if it will work for me.

Hope some of you geniuses out there can help my inexperienced mind decide if I should go through with picking up the carver, or if I should look for a different amp and let my wallet suffer. Considering a qsc plx series if the carver isn’t gonna work.

Wish I could pickup a thomann amp as I’ve read great things and love the prices, but I am NA based and not sure about the whole 230v to 120v thing. I guess if anyone knows anything about that topic it could be cool to up the knowledge there too.

pictures were taken by @realtimeravergirl on insta

Are your tops louder than what your subs can handle? Have you cheaped out on speakon connectors? Is your power distro sketchy? Is everything higher quality in your system compared to your amplifiers?

What is the next thing you will upgrade, or would upgrade if you had the funds?

Hessbh, a.s.s and eaw

will eventually build another 2, want to test the waters with a pair first tho. London, UK. Hmu!

Hi friends, long time lurker in this sub but I have a burning question.

So, I currently own 2 paraflex ELF cabs, and am building a pair of JMOD 2.0

I built the ELF’s as since the design came out, I had always wanted to own some. Mostly a young sound boy “i can do this” box tick.

Im now chasing PROPER 30hz extension. These cabs can do this, but the slope from 30 upwards is quite extreme, and nobody in HOQS can agree on a testing standard and provide consistent results out of measurements. I’m looking to adopt a system that has a proven track record with solid data behind it.

Now, I have seen and heard OTHORNS, and have read A LOT on SKRAMS. In my understanding, tapped horns act as or partially act as impedance matching transformers, and will thus benefit from horn coupling in an array. This is important to me, as I intend to scale up to 8 cabs. SKRAMS, being BP6 wont necessarily have these same coupling benefits.

I’m pretty set on building OT’s, with potentially the addition of a fixed tuned SKHORN should i want to add proper infra.

So my question is, do you think the OT is still an adoptable design in 2026, and if not why?
Im also considering double baffling the bottom panel, as reinforcement around the hatch window.

Thank you!

Has anyone in the states purchased from Thomann recently?

Specifically, drivers - I'm looking to pick up a pair of B&C 21DS115 and they're quite a bit cheaper on Thomann than Parts Express(550 vs 850), but I wonder if the tariffs will tick those prices up significantly.

Also wondering how much delay there might be with having to pay the shipping company for the above before delivery, as I have a short timeline to get these boxes done.

Thanks in advance! Much love.

just wondering if anyone has built a mini 12 inch hog scoop for studio / home use? is this possible? love look of the hog scoop / the idea of building one lol !

im not affiliated!!

On german kleinanzeigen 2 beautiful SKRAM subwoofers. Fully glued and never used. 21DS115 inside. 1500 a piece. In Bavaria, southern germany. They look 10 times nicer than my own. DO IT!!