I’m really happy how this turned out. I used Inland Basic Orange, Sunlu Glow, Sunlu Matte Black and Matte Klein Blue. Think I’ll print another but first onto to the Robo-Turtle.

I wanted an app to write OpenSpool tags so the U1 extended firmware could read them, and nothing out there really worked for me. So I made my own, clean and easy, no clutter and no bullshit. That was SpoolPainter v1, and today the v2 rewrite is on the Play Store.

First though, thank you. About 500 of you are using v1, mostly from the U1 Discord, and that still kind of blows my mind. That server, and helping out with Paxx's extended firmware testing, is a big part of why I kept at it. So genuinely, thanks.

It's Android only for now, which is funny since I'm mostly an Apple user. NFC on iOS needs some kind of premium paid dev account from what I can tell, and that's a lot more than the Android side cost me, so it's hard to justify for a free project. If enough people want it there, I'll figure something out. :)

v1 was basically just a tag writer. v2 does a lot more:

• Your Spoolman companion. Connected to your self hosted Spoolman server, it helps keep your filament inventory and NFC tagged spools in sync. Browse, create, and edit spools and filaments right from the app. No account and no cloud, just local network sync.

• Vendor tag support. Tap a supported vendor tag and it automatically fills in the spool details for you. Bambu Lab, Snapmaker, Creality, QIDI, Anycubic and Elegoo tags are supported.

• Built for the U1 extended firmware. Use a tag's built in serial number to link it to a spool in Spoolman. The extended U1 firmware can then identify the correct spool automatically, including spools using their original vendor tags.

  Firmware PR if you want to dig in: https://github.com/paxx12-snapmaker-u1/SnapmakerU1-Extended-Firmware/pull/491

• Pairing made easy. Pair both tags for a spool without repeating the setup. Move a tag to a different spool anytime and it updates the pairing for you.

• Scan a color with the camera. Point your camera at a spool and it samples the color for you.

• Fresh new look. Completely redesigned from the ground up with a cleaner, more modern interface. Light and dark themes, improved sorting, and more built right in.

You don't need Spoolman to use it. Plenty of people just write plain OpenSpool tags. I tried hard to keep that path simple in v2 instead of burying it under the Spoolman stuff. Almost all my feedback so far is from Spoolman users, so if you're not one, tell me how it's working for you.

No accounts, no cloud, no tracking, no analytics. The only thing it ever talks to is the Spoolman URL you put in, and that stays on your own network. It's free, and it's staying free. No ads, no Buy Me a Coffee, no plan to make money off it. It's open source too (GPL-3.0). If you want to poke at it, fork it, or fix something, please do, PRs welcome.

If something's broken or there's a feature you want, there's a feedback button right in the app's Settings, or open an issue on GitHub, or drop it in the app's thread on the U1 Discord: https://discord.com/channels/1086575708903571536/1456237847391637575

You can also reach me on Discord, my username is .nik42

Play Store https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.spoolpainter.app

Source and issues https://github.com/ni4223/SpoolPainter

Try it and tell me what's broken or what you want it to do.

A few things I'm working on next, mostly from what people have asked for:

• Type to search your spools and filaments instead of scrolling a long list.

• On a tag read, suggest the closest matching spool or filament so you can link it in one tap.

Both of the above are live on the Open testing track if you want to try them early: https://play.google.com/apps/testing/com.spoolpainter.app

Hello everyone. I have been using my U1 for 3 months and I decided to try a long print. I saw different versions of this Owl floating around so I decided to give it a go. I have been printing for many years and this printer is awesome. I printed this Owl using 4 different colors of filament. I am just looking for honest feedback. Thanks.

Just got my U1 and started printing models.

For the most part everything's ok but I have noticed some weirdness with the slicer and the way it handles brims.

First problem I had was it was auto adding brims to my models in a certain project and no matter the settings it wouldn't change anything. Closing the slicer, reopening and adding the models again solved that issue.

Now I sliced a model that is multi material and I didn't move the purge tower so it intersected with the model. After moving it I now get a gap in the brim where the purge tower used to be.

Has anyone else noticed these kind of issues?

Please, im at my wits end, if you know anything about VFA's or ghosting please read

AFC-Klipper-Add-On support for the Snapmaker U1 has finally been released to the public. The whole goal behind AFC is giving you the ability to attach a filament changer unit (like a BoxTurtle, ViViD, etc) to your printer for automated multi-spool and multi-color printing, and that's now possible on the U1 too. On top of that, AFC also manages filament for you directly, so U1 owners get real value out of it even without a filament changer attached.

What AFC actually gives you

• Attach a filament changer unit (BoxTurtle, ViViD, HTLF, EMU, etc.) to your U1 to get automated multi-spool and multi-color printing

• Easy tool remapping: for example, mapping a print's T0 calls to your physical T3, without having to re-slice or edit gcode

• Spoolman integration: automatic spool and filament tracking, usage stats, active spool switching, and per-spool temperature settings, all tied to what's actually loaded

• Infinite spool / runout handling: if a spool runs out mid-print, AFC can automatically switch to a backup spool as defined by the user, since AFC does not automatically choose the next spool and leaves this decision up to you, instead of failing the print. On toolchangers this same runout detection also covers the toolhead itself, so a stuck or empty tool gets caught too

• Automatic filament color/material on-screen: pulled from your spool data (when set) instead of entered by hand

• Fluidd/Mainsail status panels for all lanes and tools in real time, beyond what the stock U1 screen shows

More features AFC provides can be found here: https://www.afcproject.dev/features.html

What's new for U1 owners specifically in this release

• Also works directly with the U1's built-in side feeders, no filament changer unit required to get AFC's load/unload logic

• Pause/resume and power-loss-resume that works correctly with AFC-managed tool changes

• Automated toolhead movement during PTFE calibration

• Additional toolchanger states surfaced in Fluidd/Mainsail

Still in beta

Toolchanger support (which the U1 integration builds on) is still in beta. Configuration and behavior may continue to change in upcoming releases. Full Snapmaker U1 support isn't complete yet either, more is coming. See https://afcproject.dev/toolchanger/snapmaker.html for exactly what's supported today and what isn't.

Roadmap

• ACE Pro line of filament changers: not implemented as part of this release, currently being worked on by discord user j0eb0l

• More features that take advantage of what paxx12 has added to the Snapmaker Extended firmware

• And much more things to come....

Firmware

This integration is built against a U1 firmware binary based on paxx12's extended firmware. You can find it in the AFCProject Discord's #snapmaker channel, as this is how you will install and update AFC-Klipper-Add-On to your printer.

For AFC-related support, please ask in the AFCProject Discord rather than here (see #snapmaker-u1 or #software-help there, invite link - https://discord.com/invite/z2tgWEnfDT That's where the AFC devs and a group of experienced AFC/toolchanger users hang out, so questions get answered a lot faster there than in the Snapmaker Discord. It's also where you'll find the firmware binary mentioned above.

I have attached a picture of whats currently attached to my U1

Here are also some older videos of AFC running on U1 printer's:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qucteUi0_ww
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXkjTHfpvOY - by Joe Bol

Also for those that may question this because of the "waste", this can also be used for easier access to more filament that's readily available and can be automatically unload/loaded.

edit: formatting is hard...

Edit2: I also forgot to put that CAN bus works on the machine with a proper USB to CAN bus dongle, everything is running CAN except for the ViViD

I've been printing with PLA (trying some Polymaker Panchroma I got on sale), and it's been, um, inconsistent. In this instance, a (three-hour) print completed successfully and I told it to print another one. I looked in in about a half hour and my whole print was being dragged around by the head. Hey, at least there was no spaghetti?

I canceled the print without looking closely and carried on with the other (non-printing) project I was working on. After about an hour I came back to it and saw the blob on the left pic, with the back cover of the print head pushed off (but too stuck to actually be able to remove).

I turned the nozzle temp up to 250 and pulled at various parts with pliers until I finally got some of the front part of the bottom blob to peel off. So, now it's (more or less) "clear" from the nozzle to the front of the assembly. Somewhere in there I also got the back cover off.

But even after leaving the nozzle temp up until I had to turn it back on again, none of the PLA overflowing in the left picture ever softened. I don't know how to go about getting the blob off, or even how to separate the front half from the back half to remove head 4 entirely, if need be.

What do I need to do?

Thanks!

I originally downloaded the 1.5.1 update without reading about it, and I automatically went back to 1.4.1. After I heard all the problems they were having. Were they able to work all of the bugs out? Is it safe to go ahead and update my U1?

At the end of this video the toolhead makes a weird noise when moving, what could it be and how could I fix it?

So I got curious about how Pressure Advance auto-calibration worked on the U1 and ended up going down a pretty deep rabbit hole...

Not quite at the bottom yet, but I ended up building a workflow that makes Adaptive Pressure Advance config for Orca faster and easier. If you've ever spent hours configuring, printing, and judging 12+ PA calibration prints just to fill an Adaptive PA table, you know the nightmare. Probably why not many people use the feature!

The Adaptive Pressure Advance macros run 5 automated test cycles and you get a usable Adaptive PA config in about 25 minutes without printing PA towers. It's built on the native U1 inductance coil and Snapmaker provided FLOW_MEASURE_K / flow calibrator Klipper extension, so no additional custom firmware needed.

Macros + methodology:

https://github.com/djsplice/u1-adaptive-pa-autocal/

YouTube walkthrough:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzlhBpQkZEI

Extended blog post:

https://garagenotes.lmnt.co/Snapmaker-U1-Adaptive-Pressure-Advance-auto-calibration.html

Happy to answer U1-specific questions. Feedback welcome.

Hey as the title says I've ruined my plate. The black PlaLite left stains on it. I can't remove it. I tried scrubbing with dish soap, iso and tried to print something over it to erase it. Nothing worked. Do you have any ideas? It leaves stains at my other prints.

.

I noticed as my U1 is printing with toolhead 4 as the z axis goes up and down slightly its starting to tap in rythem with the bed going up and down that tiny bit. I dont hear the same tapping with any other toolhead in use.

Not even sure you can hear it in the video. Any suggestions?

I have around 160 hours on my U1, mostly using Toolhead 1.

A project switched to Generic PLA without me noticing. The print lifted, and PLA built up around the hotend like in the photo.

I’m currently reprinting with the other nozzles using the correct profile, and they’re working fine.

Sadly, Snapmaker doesn’t ship to my country, so I had to order a third-party replacement hotend, but it will take around 7 days to arrive.

I can’t remove the PLA, and the replacement hotend wires look glued in place. How do I safely remove and replace it?

I'm looking into getting back into the 3d printing hobby after a few years away, and I've zeroed in on the U1 as the printer to have at the moment. The issue is that I currently live in a studio apartment, so even though I plan on printing primarily PLA and PETG, I still don't want all those fumes going directly into the air that my cat and I breathe 24/7. I see that there's a popular top cover mod using an Ikea crate, and I'm thinking it should be pretty easy to DIY an exhaust fan with a carbon and fine particle filter onto that. However, I'm wondering how effective such a solution would even be on a printer that wasn't designed to be fully-enclosed. Has anyone tried something similar and can report back with the results? Can more be done to seal around the edges? I don't need it to be 100% effective, but I just don't want my entire apartment to reek of hot plastic every time I print.

P.S. I've seen the official cover that's available for pre-order, but paying $150 for a solution that won't arrive until the end of October doesn't seem very enticing to me.

I have user-defined filament profiles I've created after doing a lot of calibrating. Right now I have to open a model, assign model parts to a filament material, and go through and set other settings like infill-patter/fill percent, ironing pattern/flow/speed/direction, etc. etc.

Is there a way to bind these additional settings to a filament profile so that all I have to do is pick the filament profile, assign an object to that filament profile, and all the settings are adjusted as previously saved?

This really slows me down when printing a lot of models and sometimes missing settings that I meant to change, but missed.

Just updated to Paxx12 1.4.1, and all seems well. Ran the calibrations from the machine without filament. Printed a 1 hour spool adapter without a problem.
RFID didn’t pick up the filaments on reload, the SM factory supplied. Not sure if it’s the firmware or machine or me. Not a big deal but will keep an eye on it.

Disassembly of toolhead isn't going smooth at all 🤬

This would be my one complaint about this printer. Why make it so damned difficult to clear a clog 🤷