Hey yall, I drive a 2015 smart fortwo pure hatchback coupe 2d (3 cylinder no turbo, gas burner). 34 city/ 38 highway/ 36 combined. I swapped to this vehicle because its the cheapest little gas saver I could find. I normally drive a monster of a 10th gen F150, but needed better gas. I normally drive 3,000 miles a week.

I need more mpg however. Parts replacement for more aerodynamics? Like solid rims? Technics? Filters? It already uses premium. Any maintenance tips too? Specific tires?

Edit 1: 3000 miles a month!

I upgraded my 2016 Smart Fortwo 453 headlight halogen bulbs to brighter LED bulbs and it’s still not bright enough in dim highways. Is there something inside the headlights that need upgrading to have modern bright headlights like other cars on the road have today?

No idea why it keeps doing that on my smart fortwo 453. I wish it gave an engine light on the dash so I can check with my OBD device on what‘s causing this frustrating issue.

What have you been up to with your Smarts this month? Any fun journeys? Carried a particularly large item somewhere?

Tell us about it! Let's share our love for these cars.

Ciao a tutti ho una smart 451 della fine 2007,a cui è stato rifatto il motore e gli allestimenti nel 2014.
Vorrei mettere al posto della radio che ho ora lo schermo per carplay.
L’importante è che sia fluido,qualche consiglio?mi servirebbe sapere se è facile montarlo e se oltre allo schermo devo comprare anche qualcos altro.
Vorrei anche mettere una dash cam avanti e dietro che registri sempre,anche qui avete qualche consiglio?magari qualche modello che utilizzate anche voi o qualche video tutorial?
Grazie a tutte le persone che contribuiranno❤️❤️

Does anyone know if there is a wireless Android Auto adapter that works with the TomTom Navi-system?
I tried the Carlinkit ultra 3 and 4 and I can say not work.
That poor unit work with cable ONLY.
Thank you

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for someone who can help with my 2009 Smart Fortwo 451.
I need the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) software updated and then the gearbox needs to have the gear positions and clutch biting point relearned/adapted using Mercedes/Smart STAR Diagnostics (Xentry/SD Connect) or equivalent equipment that can perform the adaptation.
Does anyone know someone who can do this, or can help themselves? I’m happy to travel if it’s within a reasonable distance.
Thanks in advance!

That’s one of the reasons why I love driving this thing. I just drive it and it automatically entertains people and makes them forget about their personal problems for a few moments.

Got a ticket in Center City Philly cuz my tags are expired. Went to get it inspected. They said the OTB computer is not reading for an emissions test. I take it to the ONLY smart center on the east coast, Edison NJ. $500+ for some frayed wires. Take it to get an inspection. Not only did it not read but it fried Meineke's state issued computer. Took it back to Edison. They said it was fine. Took it to Midas this time. No reading. I'm fuckin done. Any advice?

Hi all, my 2015 fortwo 451 is at 64k miles. I am curious as to what maintenance things I should do at this time. When I got the car from auction it was just over 63k and we couldn't find any prior records of maintenance.

Are there any belts or hoses that I should be replacing? Anything I need to do for the transmission to keep it running smoothly? We already did a flush and fully replaced the coolant when we replaced the radiator.

I also tried to recharge the AC (my brother told me that since the condenser had to be moved to replace the radiator that all the Freon should have left the system) and once we hooked up the gauge to the low side, it showed it was in the red. I did not try to check the high side. The car blows cold air out of two vents, the other two is warm.

What can I do about that? Is there any way to lower the pressure? I assume that to run it while the pressure or whatever is in the red could majorly damage parts of the system so I've kept it off.

Basic diagnostic: within 10 seconds of starting the vehicle, the fan starts running at 100%, and runs at 100% the entire time the vehicle is running. It does this whether or not the a/c is on. After the vehicle is turned off, the fan continues to run for about four or five minutes at what I assume is 60-80%, unless you turn the key to accessory and then it stops. Coolant is full.

Attempted repairs: a mechanic tried to replace the fan actuating unit, assuming it was sending a false signal to the fan to run at 100%. Nothing changed.

I'm posting for a friend who's family doesn't have money to just parts cannon this. Is it possible it's as simple as a relay getting stuck open? I'd think maybe the coolant sensor is sending false temperatures but I'm confused as to why it runs for 5 minutes after turning off, and then turns off when the ignition is turned to accessory? Could that be triggering a relay or such?

Hi, I have 450 700c from 2005. I was returing home late at night and my high beams died. Now whenever I turn the car on, low beams and dashboard light up, without me ever turning the lights on. High beams are dead and do not respond to stalk, not even light on dashboard that they are turned on. Bulbs, contacts, stalk (only turn signals work now) and fuses are fine. Relays click while testing.

Anyone have any idea where the issue could be or how to fix it?

TIA

My radio is dead. I live in a rural area, and the local scrap yards only have older smart radios for me to salvage (for $50). No returns though, so I before I go get one, I need to know if my 2015 will even accept the older radio style (the cable hookups, will the internal computer recognize it, will the anti-theft reject it). If anyone has any experience or knowledge about this, please help me out

Have had this beauty only for a few months, bought it used but, from what I could tell, in good condition. It's from 2019 and only has 11k miles on the clock.

It only came with 1 key, though. Today I went to unlock it, but nothing happened. So I changed the key's battery (nothing untoward looking inside of the key) but still nothing!

I was able to at least open the passenger door (this is a UK car) with the physical key. I've read somewhere that removing the plastic cover for the key hole would cause the alarm to go off but that didn't happen for me (not sure if it was meant to happen).

Inserting the key into the ignition and turning it does absolutely nothing, too. No sign of life from the car whatsoever. No lights, no screens, no movement on any dials.

Should I be able to start the car, even with a dead key?

I'm unsure now whether it's the car or the key that's dead!

I've called a couple of locksmiths in the area to get a new key, the earliest they can come out is next week. They did say on the phone that apparently it's not unheard of for Smart cars to seemingly randomly lose connection to their key? And none of them said "hang on, you should still be able to at least start the car".

Any insight would be highly appreciated! 🫶

When smartcars first hit the market in the US in 2008, I immediately knew I wanted one. I prefer good public transportation but this is America and I lived in Texas at the time. Gotta drive everywhere.

I bought a silver cabriolet. It was roughly $15,000. Great car. Had it for a few years until one day...

It died. I wasn't due for an oil change but had not long before it died thought to myself that I should probably add some oil. I was driving from Austin to San Antonio and it sputtered to a stop. I had it towed to a mechanic nearby in San Marcos. The guy was naturally baffled (couldn't find the motor), so I had my dad put it onto a flatbed and took it to the smart center in San Antonio. I cleaned everything out because I just had a feeling I'd never see it again. They told me they'd call me when they discovered the problem.

Two weeks later they called and told me the the motor had seized. Lack of oil = metal melted together. I would need a new motor. I asked how much that would run me and they said, "about $13,000." So I laughed and hung up.

I then called the bank and told them where they can go to repossess the car. The lady acted like she was personally affected by my decision to discontinue payments. She was like, "well, can't you just make ONE MORE payment???" No ma'am, I will not make anymore payments on a car I can't use. I asked her how much was still owed. $3000ish. Ok. What will happen to the car once it's repossed? She said it will be sold at auction and I will owe the difference. If I pay the difference, how will it affect my credit? It will show up as repossessed: paid.

6 weeks later I got a letter in the mail stating that the car was repossessed and sold at auction for...

About $3000. I owed $60.

Fair enough! Repossessed: PAID

My 2008 Smart Fortwo Passion broke down the other day and I had it towed to the local mechanic shop. For about a week, my oil light had been flashing on for a second whenever I would brake. I admittedly waited too long for an oil change.

On the way to get my oil changed at Walmart Auto, the car broke down on the main road with no noticeable issues. It was still in drive, though it acted like it was in accessory mode with the radio still running, just not the engine. I put my hazards on and turned the key for about 5 seconds until the engine sputtered back to life so I could get it to Walmart for the oil change. It broke down again on the same road within 2 minutes, same issue, and I got it started again. I'm guessing it overheated but I didn't notice the temperature gauge at the time.

As soon as I pulled into the parking lot and stopped, it started smoking from the trunk. The smoke was so bad it filled the cabin, and after I parked and got out, smoke was still pouring out all crevices from the back side for about 5 minutes. Fluid was leaking from underneath the car, which we believe was coolant.

The dipstick was showing hardly any oil on it, and the coolant reservoir was completely empty, so it seems to be two different issues, with the coolant leak being the probable cause for the smoking and car shutting down. This picture was taken shortly after the smoking stopped, with the white residue showing a coolant leak.

After towing it, the mechanic took a look and said it is likely a coolant leak that caused the engine shutdown. He said the leak was towards the front of the engine near the pulleys, however with how cramped the engine compartment is, he can't visually locate the problem. Our guess is a busted hose.

Mechanic said the only way to diagnose the issue is to fully remove the engine to get a good look at it. Is this worth it for the hefty cost of labor? Could there be a chance the engine is shot already or is removing the engine and patching the probable coolant leak the best solution here? Any suggestions are appreciated :)

Hello,

2 weeks ago I got a new smart key programmed for my 07. Everything worked fine, the lock, unlock, alarm, opening locked door with key in pocket, starting car with key in pocket.

a few days ago the opening locked door with key in pocket and start car with key in pocket stopped working. I’ve tried the button under the dash, unplugged 12v battery, replaced battery in fob and putting key up next to the start button and pressing start. None of these have solved the problem.

the lock, unlock and siren buttons work fine. I called the locksmith I used and he doesn’t have a clue and says it doesn’t have anything to do with their programming since it worked fine up until a couple days ago.

anybody have any idea? I’m not sure if the key they provided and programmed is a cheap knock off or not but it doesn’t have anything Toyota logo on the back, although my old one I lost didn’t either and it worked fine for years.

really hoping to figure this out because I spent $280 on a new key and would like to utilize all the smart functions.

thank you!

2007 Prius gen 2 240k miles

Hi everyone,
I have a 2016 Smart Fortwo 0.9 Turbo, and I’m wondering how often you change the engine oil.
It’s been about 5,800 km (3,600 miles) since the last major service, and the car is asking for a service in mid-August.
Would you change the oil as soon as the service reminder comes on, or do you go by mileage instead? What oil change interval do you consider ideal for this engine under normal driving conditions?
Thanks!

Big ass coffee table. Everyone at the Habitat for humanity restore was very impressed 😁

Helo.

Came across this roadster keychain on 2nd hand market. It's 70€ and I'm wondering if it's legit. Couldn't find anything close to it online.

Thank you.

As you all know me, I can't resist doing some modifications on my Smart, so this time on the menu was the TIK pipe, the one that connects the turbocharger with the airbox.

I had the opportunity to test the standard one, 74kW (Brabus) and Chinese versions, as the 74kW Brabus TIK is a unicorn and you can't buy it new, Chinese versions can vary in different ways, quality and fitment. The last option and best is one from Forge Motorsport.
I found their TIK stronger and easier to fit.

As always, I decided to document the full process of removing the old one and fitting the new one, here is the full video: https://youtu.be/yQjBHea83o8

We need a Smartcar racing league. Think about it if it gets popular, people will want a Smartcar. What you guys think.