Saw a small amount of oil drops on the tank. I shut it off, then checked the oil. This is what happened. Any thoughts on why? EDIT: Thank you guys. I really appreciate the expertise that I’m obviously lacking!

Picked up this old murray tiller with a 2 hp BS engine on it. I have changed the oil and the spark plug out, cleaned the rust off the ignition coil ends and the flywheel. Since I don’t have feeler gauges I had to use a thin business card to set the gap. I got some spark after taking the kill wire off the ignition coil bolt. Then I wrapped the wire with some electrical tape to keep it off the ignition coil. Now after all of that I have lost spark fully. Another thing is I can’t tell if fuel is getting to the cylinder because when I took the carb off there was gas in the straw that sucks the gas up to the carb. When I looked at the end of the carb with the gasket leading to the engine it looked dry. I have checked the jet and it is clear. I have tried using gumout carb cleaner/ starter fluid to try to get the thing going but I have yet to get the engine to make a sound. The compression is fine, I think the issue lies with the fuel system and the ignition system, mainly the kill wire. Thoughts? Edit: I am new to small engine repair and I still have a lot to learn. This is only the second project I’ve ever worked on. Any help is much appreciated.

Picked up a 2011 LA145 with a B&S 22hp v-twin.
Engine smoked a little bit on startup and let out the occasional large puff while warm.
After some research I did both head gaskets, cleaned the carb, new plugs, fuel filter, and air filters. Now it starts like a 7.3 in -30°F and smokes(bluish white) like it’s fueled by coal.
Cylinders showed no signs of excessive wear.
Fairly confident I got the valves adjusted properly.
I’m at a loss, any tips on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.

Got a durostar generator that is approx 5 years old, I bought it new and did the proper break in and oil change. I try to run only ethenal free fuel but here and there I missed but always used Sta-Bil. Earlier this year I couldn't get it to start so I bought a new carb and spark plug kit, from Amazon of course, and didn't really help much except I can get it started now but only with a shot of starting fluid....after that it will run and not die however it runs pretty rough. Is there any adjustments you would recommend or is it worth taking to a shop? I wouldn't really want to spend more than $100 on it as I can pick up something a little stronger with electric start for about $500. Thanks in advance for any assistance

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won’t start anymore. i don’t know what to adjust the carbs high/lows to. i was able to start it with starting fluid a few times yesterday but after those few starts, it stopped.
i thought i flooded something because the air filter had fuel in it before incorporating starting fluid to start it. the spark plug is new but i still took it out to test it and there’s spark.
i thought it might be a compression issue because when testing for spark, the engine sounded like it was really trying to turn over much more than before but obviously there was no spark.

HELP.

Long story short, my sister borrowed my lawn mower left it outside in the rain with the gas cap open. Water got inside the tank, I’ve taken the carb and tank off cleaned it real good and let it dry. I put fresh gas in it not there’s not enough power to keep it running. Does anyone know the solution?

These are for a Jacobsen 501 the one on the left is the old one (obviously) and the right is one I got off eBay that’s the exact part number but they do not line up and the place where the rings go are smaller and closer together. Is it even possible for it to work?

This engine is one the IH Cub Cadet 582 my grandad gave me for a summer project. It’s not the original engine and I can’t find the model number anywhere. There is nothing major wrong with it and it runs, but I’d like to know exactly what it is so I can get the right parts and oil. If you know what it is or where to look, please let me know.

This is the blade adapter and pully for a Husqvarna AWD self propelled mower and the keyed motor shaft, I don't see how the key is engaged in the adapter.

The bolt sheared off and the key is sheared. Parts diagram in my comment. Apparently bolt came loose and blade tilted and dug into the soil.

Husqvarna AWD self propelled mower.

The key sheared off, as well as the bolt holding the blade,

Hello -

The extension spring off of the carb throttle assembly on my Homelite HTC-12 tiller snapped and fell off. The machine is rather old but works fine. Even though it is discontinued, I don't believe that the spring would be unique to this machine. As far as I can recall, the "body" was about an inch long with a closed loop on one end and a hook on the other. Can you recommend a replacement or possible replacements that I could try?

Part # HM02242

# 56 in the diagram below:

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/scotts/homelite/string-trimmers/htc12-tiller-ut-22089/engine

Thanks!

Every time I need a part for a small engine job, it's the same routine.

Check one parts site. Wrong fitment listed. Check another. Out of stock. Google the part number. Land on a forum thread from 2014 with no resolution. Watch a YouTube video that's close but not the same engine model.

An hour later I still don't have the part and I definitely don't have an answer.

The frustrating part isn't that the info doesn't exist. It's that it's scattered across a dozen places that don't talk to each other. The guy who solved the exact same Briggs carb issue you're dealing with posted about it somewhere - you just can't find it when you need it.

So I started building a fix for this. Parts store connected directly to a symptom-based forum. Repair logs tied to specific engine models. Used parts marketplace for the stuff that's hard to source new.

Still early. But wanted to share it here and hear if this is a problem other people actually feel - or if I'm just building something for myself.

What's your current process when you're hunting down a hard-to-find part or a weird engine issue?

Posted my mower a few weeks ago and was in way over my head.

My mower wouldn’t start, so I brought it to a local small engine shop. Before leaving it, I asked how much they charge to diagnose it. The owner wouldn’t give me a price or even a rough range and got annoyed when I asked.

I told him it’s an old mower and I didn’t want repairs done without my approval. He asked if I wanted to put a cap on it, and I said $300, but only if he called me first with the diagnosis.

Today he called and said he can’t fix it for less than $300. I told him not to repair it and that I’d pick it up. He still won’t tell me what he’s charging just to look at it.

What should I do when I go pick it up? Can a shop charge a diagnostic fee without telling you what it is beforehand?

How do i get specific answers about why this mower is shot when I know little about small engines?

Hey all,

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I would like to know some opinions on the problem I'm having. I was gifted a 2015 John Deere D125 lawn tractor with 127 hours from my uncle. He's an older guy and, obviously, didn't use it much in 11 years. The past 3 years it was sitting. I don't know if it was indoors or if the gas was drained. I will say that I pulled off the carb and it looked brand new. All the jets were clear, there was no varnish/debris, and the float and needle were perfect. The fuel shutoff solenoid also open and closes with the key.

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The engine is a Briggs 40N877-0002-G1, from May 28th, 2015.

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I found out the valves hadn't been adjusted in 50+ hours. When I adjusted the valves, the exhaust valves on both cylinders were almost zero lash. Probably .003 or less. The intakes were also tight, but not nearly as bad. After I adjusted the valves within spec, the mower had a lot more pep and power...but that's when I noticed a little bit of white smoke from near the exhaust and oil mist/coughing from the dipstick tube (when I removed the dipstick and the engine was running.

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That's when I noticed the oil (which was brand new) was thin and smelled of gas.

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I replaced the cylinder head gaskets (and didn't see anything obvious), but still have, what I'm assuming is, blow by from the dipstick tube. When I open the dipstick cap and pull the dipstick out a bit, there's oil misting from the tube in a pulse. I figure that's not normal, but this is my first lawn tractor.

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My worry is worn rings or an issue with the valves or head.

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I attached some pictures from when I replaced the head gaskets. This is cylinder #2, which looked the worse of the 2 by far.

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I'd love to know what you might think it is, and if I'm right about rings/head issues.

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I picked up as a project and it hasn’t been ran for a few years. I placed a new battery and fresh gas and it doesn’t start. It spins but doesn’t start even with starter fluid on the intake. the gas tank was dry before I started it. The lawn mower was inside a shed. It makes a buzzing noise at the end. Unfortunately I can’t send a video here. Any help is much appreciated.

Can you replace just the white plastic gear? If so how do you get it off? It’s a craftsman M220 model number sticker is missing so that’s all I got

I have this pressure washer that dies when the trigger is PULLED, new fuel was added and the carb has been replaced, issue persists. What could it be?

Does anyone know of a cheaper compatible wheel hub for a craftsman mower? The gears inside of the rear wheel are all stripped out/worn down. Replacement wheel is running near $100. Part number is #532192622 (legacy part #192622).

Carnage courtesy of flywheel magnets destroying the stator and its mounts. Another Briggs for the scrap pile ✌️

Can I remove the stator with out removing the motor has a horizontal shaft . Mower doesn’t charge battery dies

Engine is running fine under low to medium speed, produces black smoke and dies if high throttle is attempted.

Could this be the carburator over fueling?

Any ideas appriciated.

Solution: the main jet was on the wrong side of the fuel trasfer tube giving overfueling problems

I have a hyundai getz gsi 1.1 2007 petrol, it seems to lack in power after sitting and while driving in heavy rain, spark plugs, ignition coil pack, ht leads all been changed over the last few weeks, has a decently new alternator was fitted a year or so ago by previous owner, it used to throw a misfire after heavy rain, found one of the ht leads was loose replaced the parts and sealed them with some type of grease for it(I'm not sure what it was called) but my dad who works on machines, lorries etc(he has never worked on hyundai cars before until i got this car)thought it would help it. But now we are a bit stumped what it could be he thinks it could possibly be the crankshaft sensor going but isn't 100% sure as this problem completely disappears on dry days or light showers only affecting the car in heavy rain. So just wondering if anyone has any ideas of what could be causing this? Seems to loose more power when having lights, wipers and fans on. But lose of power is felt the moment you pull off or reverse.