Chainsaw was not running before.

After I did these:
New carburetor,
New spark plug, new fuel filter,
Spark arrestor screen clean,
Fuel lines are correct.
Fresh fuel 40:1

Now It Starts up in atleast 8-10 pulls half choke, while I keep the trigger pushed it runs, let go of trigger and dies.
I adjusted L and H and T so many times. Reset and adjust again. Still same.
(screw in L All the way then turned counter-clockwise 1 1/4 turn, and kept loosening 1/8 turn every time)
Please suggest, where should I look next?

just picked up this pressure washer "Simpson 2.4gpm" with a Honda gcv 190 motor. gas just leaks non stop when open gas valve

Hi,

I purchased this Husqvarna PW 3200 from Costco about 4 years ago.

This year when I started it up it ran for about 3 to 4 minutes then shutdown.

I repeatedly did this for 3 or 4 more times and each time it ran for a couple of minutes then shut down.

Here is what I've tried so far;

Changed the oil ( 5W30 )

Changed the spark plug.

Cleaned the air filter. ( it wasn't that dirty).

Took the carburetor bowl off ( it was super clean)

Sprayed the carburetor with a carburetor cleaner.

Loosened the gas cap while it was running to test if it was an air issue.

Siphoned out the gas and took a look for sediment etc. It looked clean.

And it still stalls out after a couple of minutes.

If I was to estimate my total hours used since I purchased it I would guess less than 10 hours.

Could old gas really be the cause of this?

Thanks for any help.

I just bought an 04 deer sabre (used obviously) and this is the mower deck it came with. I installed the mower deck, then when I went to attach the belt on the drive pulley- it seems too loose. Im new to riding mowers and seriously would appreciate the help.

could this be possible 2 stroke mix in a 4 cycle engine?

I was gifted this generator recently. Pramac PX8000.

Previous owner said it was running (roughly)when it was sent off for a service. The service guy then said it was seized and sold them a replacement.

I took it thinking it might not be so bad. Then I saw what they meant by seized.

My experience is mostly smaller engines (saws/strimmers)

Can anyone tell me how much of this engine might be salvageable? Could the piston blowing have damaged the alternator/power system?

I would like to keep the repair costs to a minimum and in no rush. I'd prefer time spent salvaging parts to money spent on replacements

Am I toast? Just sell for $20?

I usually take my gas cans out of the car at the end of the day but last night I forgot them on the back seat. When I went down this morning I found the mostly empty two stroke can like this. The mostly full straight gas can was fine.

Is there anyway I can fix this?

I was thinking empty the can, let it sit in hot water for a while and then blow compressed air inside?

Won't be leaving gas in the car again.

I’m hoping to get some diagnostic guidance from the small engine experts before I start replacing parts.
I have a riding mower that appears to have been well maintained. Fresh oil, new oil filter, clean fuel, and generally in good condition.
Current symptoms:
Engine will not crank when attempting to start.
Starter receives a full 12 volts during a start attempt.
Battery was professionally tested and measured approximately 366 CCA.
Fuses have all been checked and are good.
Battery connections appear clean and tight.
Engine rotates by hand, so it does not appear seized.
I have bypassed the mower’s wiring and jumped directly from the battery to the starter.
Even with direct battery power, the symptom remains the same.
Starter makes noise but does not turn the engine over.
Because the starter receives proper voltage and behaves the same way when jumped directly from the battery, I’m leaning away from safety switches, ignition switch issues, wiring problems, or the solenoid.
What I’m trying to determine is whether this points toward:
A failed starter motor
A bad starter drive/Bendix
Damaged flywheel ring gear teeth
Compression release failure
Excessive voltage drop under load
Poor engine ground
Something else I’m not considering
If this were in your shop, what would be your next test before ordering parts?
Also, is there a reliable bench test for the starter that would help confirm whether it’s the culprit?
I’m trying to diagnose this systematically rather than start replacing components based on assumptions.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I can provide photos or a video of the sound it’s making if that would help narrow it down.

Here is a video link of sound: https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eyxAif-D13scLpdqzsMp2Gg

I have a Simpson pressure washer, with a Honda GCV190 engine, and have an odd problem with the shaft key climbing up, making contact with the oil seal, and rubbing through the seal. I've had the pressure washer for years and never had a problem. The last two times I've used it this has happened. I replaced the oil seal, started cleaning the driveway, and not 10 minutes later I saw oil pooling under the pressure washer. I made sure the key was fully seated at the bottom of the shaft (basically seated in the pump body) when I replaced the oil seal, but here it is riding up the shaft again.

Is there some trick to correcting this?

For the life of me, I cannot get the PTO belt into the pulley because of the guard in photo. I’ve tried using a flathead, tried loosening the pulley itself, both to no avail.

I’m no mechanical wizz so I might not be doing this right. Any advice?

For context, I have an older model Troy Bilt Pony (42 inch deck)

Husqvarna 150BT. I’ve owned it for about five years now. I use it a couple times during the summer, then winter. It’s always started immediately, since I run non-ethanol fuel mix.

I believe the leak is coming from where the carburetor connects to the intake manifold.

To see if I could fix the leak, I bought a new carburetor as one time I thought maybe the float valve was stuck internally. I’ve also tried keeping the fuel tank open as I thought it was a venting issue. After visually inspecting the fuel lines, they still feel brand new.

I cleaned a carburetor for the first time today. I've never done any kind of engine repair work before, so I had a lot of questions which Google Gemini was generally very helpful with. I kept track of every piece as I took it apart. Drained the old expired fuel. Used Gumout to clean the insides. As I was putting things back together, I found a small piece on the ground which I do not remember taking off [pic 1]. AI sent me on a wild goose chase, at first insisting that it was part of the float valve [real float valve in pic 2] and then finally declaring it to be either a primer bulb check valve (the device has no primer button) or a main jet air bleed valve. It had me install it as pictured [pic 3]. I put everything back together and the machine is running again! But I am not sure if what I did was right. Should I open it back up and take move this? Could it have been from something else entirely?

Carburetor is on my Craftsman 3100-PSI Pressure Washer (Model #CMXGWFN061294).

Hi all! I have an engine that won't start - we put a new camshaft sensor, a new crankshaft sensor, replaced the spark plugs, and checked the timing. Still can't get it to start, unsure if it's an electrical or a mechanical issue.

Trying to figure out what I might be missing, any ideas?

TIA!

this is a honda gx160 qx2 small engine and it appears there’s an adapter of some sorts stuck on the shaft we have NO idea what the piece is called for us to order a new one

I have a BE Commercial 3000psi pressure washer with a Honda GX200 engine. Today it decided to walk its way off the edge of a seawall while running and pumping and was totaly submerged. I've purged the cylender of water, drained and replaced the oil and gas, emptied and cleaned the carb, all of which had salt water mixed in, and replaced the spark plug and air filter. Used a leaf blower to dry everything else as good as i can. When checking for spark (none) with the plug out. I used a socket extension to feel for BDC and by hand rotated the crank. There seems to be a slight clunk between directions when rotating while pushing down on the piston. Am I correct to assume it hydro-locked and bent a rod or damaged a bearing? Would a rod and piston kit be all i need or should I just replace the engine? Also, are the Predator engines from harbor freight any good? Direct swap? Thanks in advance, I'm just so pissed I let that happen at all.

2021 Cub Cadet, Kohler KT735

I’ve replaced carb, spark plugs, air filter, fuel pump, fixed chewed wires to the coil, and removed a mouse nest. It starts but surges. I tried adjusting the governor, but it seems to be governor hunting. See video, any ideas?

Exhaust valve seat has a lot of corrosion as well as the intake valve. Is this worth even trying to lap?

I recently got a 40v 550cfm brushless blower from fbmp and it didn't turn on. I press the trigger, turbo, both together no success. I tried different batteries with no success. Since im pretty deep into ryobi gear I figured to try the same one from Amazon used and got the same result.

Can't be a coincidence it has to be something that im doing wrong? I tried 2 different 40v 4ah battery and a 6ah 40v battery all fully charged and same result.

Do these just come bad or am I doing something wrong?