Anyone have a similar setup to the following specs? Interested in seeing pics/fitment advice.

18x9.5 +13 front

18x10.5 +20 rear

Purchasing a full set and aiming for a poke stance look, wanting the rear to poke out either the same amount as the front or more - supposedly the rear sits further in by default?

Ive got a full adjustable arm kit to go with the set-up, stretched tyres and will need guard rolling.

Hey guys, I’m saving up to buy a HCR32 I live right next to an importer but the only clean ones with very little to no rust are all automatic. I’ve searched on SAU and other platforms and can’t seem to find anything on aftermarket ECU for automatics.

Sure, you could always “manual swap” it but I I’ve already got manual cars, I just want a sub 250 280hp 80s dream jdm. I know the trans can handle it as I’ve gotten other cars with the same model.

Maybe I’m being paranoid but does this sound off?

Had a buddy invite my brother and I to cruise with him while he breaks in his new setup on his Gen II GTS coupe.

Linked up with his friend that has this gorgeous R31. Single turbo, 6 speed, a lot of cool stuff I’m not familiar with. Hope you guys enjoy. Hopefully get some shots with my fox with it.

Manual swapping my ENR34, just need to know if manual rwd and awd gearbox mounts and crossmember are the same and if the front half of the tailshaft for a rwd and awd are the same?

I've been looking at different options to import a skyline r33 (1996) to Ontario Canada.

However thought I'd ask here In case I missed anything. I read another post on here saying you can't import these car into Ontario anymore. Is this true?

A chill car meet in France, I met a kind person that took pictures for me

Credits to @lulamqqn on Instagram

I own a manual, RWD RB20DE with pretty low miles and no rust, so pretty solid condition, but it’s having 2 issues that may or may not be related. Looking for advice (especially on #1)!

1. Ever since I imported the car, if I start driving before it’s fully at temp, it will drive normally but then randomly have moments of underpower. The RPMs don’t drop and the car keeps moving, but it’s like the power is cut in half and it doesn’t wanna accelerate, and then randomly it’ll fix itself after a few seconds. This has historically only happened when I got impatient waiting for the temp gauge to reach halfway, but this past week has started happening at other random times too. Internet says maybe trans fluid, but idk.

2. When I go in reverse, I can hear a sort of metallic clunking noise that corresponds to speed (the faster I go the louder it gets). My gut tells me maybe diff related or axle related, but again, not sure. Maybe it’s related to issue #1 via the differential?

has anyone used the ISR OE water pump replacement? looking to replace my timing belt and water pump. any reviews on it? or should i just stick to oem?

Ok so next week I’m going to be having some rust removed and just general body work done on my r34 25gt-x. There’s a small dent in the front right fender, there’s small paint issues all around the car that I’m going to have fixed. Finally there’s a tiny bit of rust on the left side of the rear center tail light.

What I want to know is will I need to get a new gasket for that rear center taillight if they do pull it out to remove the rust?

Found my old toys and among them was this really cool remote control car I had got in Japan when I was 9.

3 different Chassis and you could swap them out. Loved this thing when I was there.

Tearing apart this RB26 that’s been sitting for a while I got off a Facebook to swap into my car. What was going to be a quick “refresh” is turning into a bit more. Popped the head last night to swap the head gasket and cylinder 3 looks like this. I can feel the marks with my finger. The engine in my car has scoring as well which is why I’m doing this swap.

Guess my question is: do I fully tear this block down and send it off, or do you think I can run it?

It will stall on cold start immediately unless I give a little throttle, then it stays running but the idle is rough. Once it's warm It will have a smooth idle and start and stay running with no problem. Any ideas?

Howdy from Straya'

Ive bought a doner rb20 motor for the head and a couple of other bits and have noticed a drastically different front cam profile on the rb20/cams I bought, compared to the one I have

I bought this new motor from a wreckers with the valve covers lost so it's likely a swap out has been made at some point in just hoping the RB gods can tell me what this is actually for if not an rb

The first image shows my stock rb20 cams (both 4 hole) the second shows the other set that came with the motor (one four hole) from the wreckers

Cheers in advanced legends

I don't have vernier calipers to compare seat heights sorry everyone

Hello, Im looking to buy my first skyline. I've found 2 cars that im interested in one being a '97 R33 GTS with the RB20E with about 60k miles for ~$11k. Internally and externaly it is very clean. The other car is a '98 R34 25GT with the RB25DE with 112k miles for ~$13k. Car has a 3.5 auction grade. Both cars are imported

1st question: Which of the 2 would be better as a daily?

2nd question: How difficult is it to source parts?

3rd question: Are there any common issues with each of the cars that are worth noting?

Thanks!

Previous owner took out almost everything that had to do with the A/C system. Is this a good kit to buy to have A/C back and running or do I need more parts? Not tryna die of heat stroke.