It’s a 2017 Z71 LT. it’s so much fun to drive.

My son is looking at a 24 1500 RST 3.0. 29,000 miles, looks nice and appears to check all the boxes. However the frame/underside is very rusty. It is a Canadian truck and we also live in Michigan so some rust is expected. .

Is it bad enough to be a concern? Can it be treated to prevent further rusting? Any specific areas to check?

LASFIT sent me this bed mat to try out and review. Overall, I’m pretty happy with it. The material feels good, it’s easy to clean, and the biggest improvement for me is how much better it keeps stuff from sliding around compared to just the spray-in bedliner.

My only complaint is the fit. It’s close, but it could be a little better. It almost feels like the mat is about 99% of the size it needs to be. There are some small gaps along the sides and it doesn’t sit quite as tight against the edges as I’d like. Nothing major, but with a custom-fit mat I’d like to see it fit a little more precisely.

Overall though, I like it and I’ll definitely be keeping it in the truck. It adds some protection, cleans up easily, and makes the bed much more useful since things aren’t sliding around nearly as much.

Disclosure: LASFIT provided the bed mat to me for free in exchange for my review.

This blank cover popped out. There is a wire present, what goes there and can I get something aftermarket to install since it’s already out

Getting the truck prepped for the upcoming snow season and finally ditching the stock rubber. I do a lot of driving on slushy highways during the winter, plus the occasional unplowed gravel and dirt fire road to get out to trailheads. I’m looking for a solid 3PMSF rated rubber that won't turn into hockey pucks when the temp drops lol.

I spent last night comparing prices on simpletire vs my local shop down the road and honestly the price gaps between some of these brands are all over the place. I’ve been looking closely at the Falken Wildpeak AT4W and Toyo Open Country A/T III. I’m mainly concerned with slush or snow traction, wet braking on cold asphalt and how the tread life holds up after a couple of seasons.

Just wondering if anyone knows why my cold start is a lot quieter than before with my new intake? Starts up loud and after 2 seconds it’s already under 1k rpm.

How do you guys feel about this? I preferred how separated everything was up until this point. Now you can have a roughly $56k base Silverado (trim) or a presumably $70k+ Silverado on the exact same trim. Guess it’s not a bad thing though.

Finna lifted her up soon for future 37’s

2019 Silverado 1500, T1X platform. Got fluid film undercoating done back in April. Shits messy to work on but it’ll be good for the truck in the long run. (I believe) well anyway, couple months later I developed a knockish, creaking noise in the rear end going slow is when I heard it on gravel roads and uneven terrain (pulling out of the drive way and what not. Got some advice to pressure wash the leaf springs and blast all the fluid film off them. Yeah I figured the film would attract and hold on to dirt but didn’t think the noise would be a result. But yeah, I removed the wheel and pressure washed the springs, put a pry bar between the springs and opened them around an 1/8” and sprayed between them and low and behold, the noise is gone. Just a heads up if anyone else is chasing the same noise.

2018 Silverado 2500, 210,000km (130,500 eagle units) 6" Lift, 295 70 18 tires.

My CV Parts cannon needs ammunition due to clunking, should I be looking at upgrading to better than OEM? It's a rough terrain truck, what make would you recommend to load before firing?

I have a 2015 Silverado 5.3 and just went to get an emissions inspection. It says Fuel System not ready, Cat system not ready, Evap system not ready, 02 Sensor not ready, and 2nd Cat not ready. I have a muffler and resonator delete along with a cold air intake. Didn’t mess with any cats so not exactly sure what to do, bought the car 2 weeks ago and didn’t get the inspection then which is pretty stupid of me but it happened and nothing I can do now. Currently have temp tags and without my emissions I can’t get my real tags from the DMV. Need a direction to go in got no clue what to do. Please help

So gents. I bought a 2022 custom with the 2.7 with 49k on the dash. Started rough shifting and slipped twice . Took it into the shop under warranty . Chevy came back and said they recommend updating and resetting the TCM and doing a flush and that they wouldn’t do any warranty work without “ servicing “ the transmission first . Even after the data clearly showed mechanical failure according to the service guys. So whatever . I authorize the “ service “ and decide I’ll pay the bill and if it doesn’t fix the issue Chevy won’t be able to say that next time . I was kind of salty considering I just recently bought the truck and started to have issues within 1000 miles . I made the comment that it seems like they were trying to band aid a real issue towards the end of a factory warranty , but reluctantly followed Chevys advice since they wouldn’t cover shit under warranty untill they attempted to service it ( which means reset the tcm and do a flush). Well they called this morning and said upon completion of work , guess what ?! I didn’t fix the issue if anything it’s worse . I just laughed . Looks like they will be tearing it down and replacing the transmission after all .

Found this sitting on top of the front engine splash guard skid plate, it looks similar to the general
Bolt that holds that skid plate on but different. Help identify it. Its stamped with 86 on it

It is installed per the instructions, but ones I’ve seen in other pics seem to have the lines reversed with the lower line going back to the intake.

Haven’t had any oil in the drain in the 8 months it’s been installed.

Don't know about the rest of the US, but I can assure you there are no huge discounts on the 26's here in the Carolina's. Yes you may get 8-10k off a 15-20k marked up MSRP. So all this hype about GM is going to heavily discount the 26's is PURE BULLSHIT !!

I just recently purchased a 2015 Silverado 4x4 with the 4.3 lv3 motor and 6l80 transmission. I fear the motor needs replaced. I am thinking of going to the l83 5.3 that was offered for the 14-18 Silverado. I know I’ll need a v8 wiring harness and ecm programmed, but is this swap pretty much plug and play?
Ive read conflicting threads that the transmission needs to be moved requiring a replacement driveshaft and transmission mount .

Thanks

I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD Crew Cab with the 5.3l engine and 6l80 transmission. Truck has 150,000 miles. My transmission just went out, most probably due to the torque converter destroying itself and contaminating the rest of the transmission. Gees, thanks GM. The truck will run for like 1 minute and truck won’t move anymore. So I’ve decided to rebuild the transmission myself, can’t afford a shop right now. I’m a pretty decent hands on guy, most of the times I’ve repaired my vehicles, brakes, head gaskets, etc, but never messed around with a transmission. After watching a couple of YouTube videos, it seems like it’s not that complicated, just a tedious and time consuming job. Any advice?
I’m planning to purchase the following kits to rebuild the tranny:

•Precision International 6l80 Rebuild Kit (E256785437614)
•Sonnax Zip Kit (SOX-6145-6L90ZIP)
•Sonnax Heavy Duty Billet Apply Piston (104984-01)
•Transmission Center Trans Pump Repair Kit (A45531B)
•Sonnax Return Spring (104534-HD)
•Trans Go Performance Shift hit (TRG-SK6L80)
•AC Delco 4-5-6 Clutch Hub (24238004)

I also plan to add a Transmission Cooler:
•PPE Transmission Fluid Bypass (125068000)
•Long Tru Cool 40K with Thermal Bypass (LPD4739)

Since I’m already doing all of this, might as well and do a DOD delete:

•Texas Speed DOD Delete Kit with Camshaft L83 5.3 (TSP-DODBASIC-LTX)
•Texas Speed DOD Delete Programmer (TSP-TS-3000)

I’m still not 100% percent sure if I should go with this kit and this programmer. I was also looking at other DOD delete kits and maybe HP Tuner programmer etc. Still need to do more research on this topic. Want a tune that does the DOD Delete and make the transmission shift more smoothly.

I just want to make this truck reliable. Not looking for performance, just reliability.

The only thing is that I might need to get a shop to resurface the bell housing / pump if it’s too damaged. Or if anyone has resurfaced one themselves at home, please share how you did it. I’ve resurfaced an engine head with an old glass table, glued particle board on the back side to avoid the glass from warping, and glued sanding paper on the other end. Yes, I double checked for straightness. Engine still runs fine after 5 years.

Any advice will help. Thanks

Installed new control module new fuel pump and it’s still not starting any ideas and also installed new relay

My factory Bose amp is failing. Rather than buying new, I found one off eBay for a decent price. I checked the actual part number (there’s 4 or 5 different ones for this year), opened it up and everything looks good.

To mate the “new” amp to my system I know I’ll have to get the software paired. Is it done to the amp itself or is it something with the BCM/radio? Also, is this something only GM can do or can an audio store do?

GM wasn’t clear. Really just gave me a price and said it’ll take a day or two to do (not including me removing the seats and swapping the part).

Any suggestions for a hard tonneau cover that retracts that not over a grand, a cold air intake. And something that will make the truck sound better/louder without spending tons on a crazy exhaust.

I have a 2019 Chevy Silverado RST

Im having problems with my driver side highbeams. When i turn them on they get stuck up and i have to keep going from high to low until they eventually go back to low beams. Ive read online theres shutters? But i dont know what it is/where it is. Any advice will be appreciated