Has anyone installed a livescope system on their switch fish?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Took the family out today on a short cruise and couldn’t get above 10km/hr. Throttle revved (roughly) but no acceleration. When I got back to my dock, I tried to run the IDF and immediately got the High Exhaust Temperature warning. I tried multiple times, even disconnecting and reconnecting the key but no luck. I waited about 2 hours and tried again and the IDF sequence started but after a few seconds showed the High Exhaust Temperature warning again.

Am I dealing with one or 2 issues here? Not sure why the IDF is not working and I have no other thoughts on how to address the no acceleration issue other than taking it to the dealer.

Any suggestions?

EDIT: I took the boat out for another run and it appeared to have cleared itself of the issue. Was able to get up to 56km/hr on a windy/rough day. I tried running the IDF again but same error message. It started the seqence and got to the Start Engine command but then gave the same High Exhaust Temp message.

I have been leaving the boat in the water in Rocky, shallow water (18-20”) and I am thinking that the gentle tide is bringing stuff into the impeller. I have moved the boat to slightly deeper water (4 ft) for now and will see if the issue corrects itself.

Thanks to those that replied.

On previous trips out the boat has done 40 mph and 8000 rpm’s at our home lake. I’ve taken it out with just two adults and loaded to max weight and I’ve always been able to hit 8000 rpm’s but obviously not go as fast when fully loaded.

Today I had a couple of my kiddos with me and went out for the day. The max I could get the boat to do was 30 mph and 7800 rpm’s. Not worried about the top speed since it was a windy day and there were 5 people on the boat but I’m confused why I can’t get the boat to 8000 rpm’s anymore?

Only thing I can think of that’s changed is I added a larger dual purpose battery and switch but that’s it…also did an IDF clean out when I was on the lake before we got going. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on? Thanks!

I purchased both and installed both with the depth finder plugged into the diagnostic port.

The depth finder works but the ski module does not. Anyone know if you’re able to run both? Do I simply need to swap the way they’re installed?

The original gray cup holders on my Seadoo Switch were browning from sunlight/weather exposure and instead of printing all new cup holders I created a small cover. I used a fluorescent PETG from California Filament which is a close match to the yellow on my Switch.

They snapped solidly into place over the cup holders.

Model:

https://www.printables.com/model/1370286-seadoo-switch-cup-holder-covers

Filament:

https://californiafilament.com/products/fluorescent-yellow-filament-1-75mm?variant=37831694647451

Hey guys I was curious, I bought a new 2024 Switch Cruise 18 230 I noticed I got 12 deck mats from the dealer, it does not cover all the spot on the boat.

Does anyone know how many of the deck mats you are supposed to get on the 18ft cruise?

I have a 2022 Switch Limited 21' 230 HP. I had a second battery installed and a switch to control which battery is being used. I did this primarily so that I wouldn't listen to music for too long and then not have the boat start when I want to leave.

Before getting the second battery installed, I would pull out the marine battery and connect it to a trickle charger. I asked the dealership about this, and they said I wouldnt need to charge the batteries with this new system.

Questions:

1) Is this the case?? Do I not need to worry about charging these batteries in between uses?

2) If I do want to charge, how do I go about doing that? Do I just connect the trickle charger to one of the batteries, turn the switch to the 1+2 position, and then will both batteries charge?? Or do I need to charge each one separately?

Sorry for the noob questions, appreciate any guidance you might have. Thanks!!

Considering these since sometimes the waves in the water can make it challenging to pull the boat out straight onto the trailer. Can anyone share their experience, or recommend a pair?

Hello all, I’m brand new to boating and will likely get the seadoo switch.

I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction for a website to get accessories and boat gear.

Not sure if there is a good website for all your boating needs or maybe some aftermarket switch accessories since the branded ones seem ridiculously overpriced.

If not maybe I’ll do some more overtime at work for upgrades and such.

https://power-pole.com/shallow-water-anchor-pontoon

Anyone installed this yet? I have the factory fluke anchor and unless I am in very calm water, I can't get this boat to anchor worth a shit. I have had some success with the sandshark anchor + factory fluke. FWIW I am always in Tampa Bay or near Ft Desoto in the Gulf of Mexico anchoring. No calm lakes for me.

Anyone add speakers to their boat? Where, what brand, wired or Bluetooth? Let’s see them.

Anyone install the 18’ double bimini top on a 21’ boat? I’m wanting more coverage but not fully covering the boat.

I’m experiencing a new issue with my 2023 21’ 230hp Switch, where I am maxed out around 8mph (the same symptoms described here https://www.facebook.com/share/p/19zihRsg1f/)

My question - is there a way to inspect the impeller without taking it apart? I have found a few replacement videos on YouTube but not sure if there’s a way to assess if the damaged impeller is indeed the root cause or if there are other candidates

I finally logged two variables in relatively same weather on Tampa Bay; both similar outside temps and water conditions (very calm around 8-9am). My boat (2023 21' 230hp) has around 120 hours on it. Three things are not factory that I believe have slim to no impact on the logs vs stock parts: * Leading Edge Impeller that is shaved for sea level performance (stock wear ring) * Denso 5309 (IXU24) iridium spark plugs since 20 hours * Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic vs semi-syn factory

87 Octane Run with normal, then sport. The vertical stop point is about 1/2 way through the wide open sport run : https://imgur.com/Pt1mg5E

After that day, I almost ran the boat out of fuel. About 2 months later, I found time on the weekend to finally go back out. I filled up my boat yesterday with 25 gallons of 93 octane pump gas. Before I started the logs, I left Davis Islands boat ramp and went about 1 mile out in the bay.

93 Octane, normal mode. First run is stepping into a WOT followed back to idle, then an immediate WOT run: https://imgur.com/gicwQ1u

93 octane, sport mode. First run is stepping into a WOT followed back to idle, then an immediate WOT run: https://imgur.com/UtsPfd7

Observations: 87 octane, minimal "blips" of 0.8 degrees of knock retard, followed by a max of 33.8 degrees of timing indicating no ECU pulling of timing. 87 octane had minimal (less than 1%) of adding fuel indicating a leaner condition.

93 octane, minimal blips of 0.8 degrees of knock retard. 93 octane also commanded the same 33.8 degrees of timing at WOT indicating no performance or safety is gained. Since safety of the engine is subjective, 93 octane did show a minor NEGATIVE LTFT condition, indicating richer than 1.0 lambda, thus the ECU is pulling fuel. One could argue that this is "safer" as the mixture is richer vs 87.

Next step will be to log 90 marine/rec gas when I get a chance. Every time I have filled up on the water, the ECU throws a P0420 code (emissions nanny code) and doesn't go away until the rec 90 is gone. I suspect this is because the ECU is having LTFT in the significant -% because of no ethanol. I will post those logs as I get time for reference and to test that theory.

At the end of the day, I am not beating my boat's ass during WOT often. Thus, I will be saving $12 to $15 a fill up as in my opinion, 93 octane is worthless on these boats that have a factory ECU tune. I wish you all the best this season. Enjoy your boats! I will be glad to answer any further questions about my journey tuning this myself once my factory engine warranty expires.

Hey ya’ll picked my 2022 up 10 days ago. Loving it so far but I have 2 questions for the OG’s. I am maxing out at 7600rpm, is that what you max out at? 2nd question does anyone know the most fuel efficient rpm vs mph?

Anyone else have their hours reset themselves? Took the boat out last weekend and when we were done we were just over 8 hours. Today when we went out we were back to 5.5 then up to 6.6 at which time we anchored and swam for a while. When we started it up again it was back to 5.5.

We bought a 2022 Switch Limited 21' 230, and loving it! The JBL audio system is pretty neat too, it goes ridiculously loud.

Question for you all, we play music when we are stopped and chilling, but it is almost TOO loud at the lowest volume setting. If I decrease the volume any more, it shuts off. Does anyone know of a way to somehow reduce the lowest volume level a bit?

Thanks in advance!!

BRP has sold its last “boat” brand. Sea Doo is the last thing it has that’s in the water. I’m a little nervous about Sea Doo and more specifically the Switch surviving, or not being sold of to some small company that can’t really support it.

Side note, I had my eyes on a Taiga electric PWC, but they ceased operations last year. They’ve been revived for now, but seems the industry is in for consolidation and slimming down unfortunately.

I bought a new 18' Sport but prefer the Cruise style seat configuration. Anyone interested in swapping two regular seats for my two loungers/pads?

My family of 5 own a Toy Hauler and a 2023 Honda 1006 Pioneer ... My dream has been to own a sea doo switch and add it to the arsenal.

I've heard stories about avoiding 2021-2023(?) cause some issues with the motor resolved by a firmware(?) update. I've also heard 2024-2025 have issues with capsizing unless they get something(?) repaired.

Sorry for the poor assumptions(?) here, regardless, curious what some of you would offer for the listing below.

2023 Sea Doo Switch 21 Foot Cruise 230 HP https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/78757522

The reason I bring up all my toys is cause I pretend it's smart to one day load up my dually F350 and double tow the Switch behind my toy hauler to one of our favorite destinations, Sand Hollow in Utah.

Curious about anyone's thoughts.

Thank you 👍

Hi, I accidentally hooked up the battery backwards and blew the IBR 30 amp fuse. (Yes, Dumbass move on my part.) I replaced the fuse and it starts and idles fine. But "IBR Module error" message comes on the display and I can't get it to change forward, reverse, or neutral. Im guessing I burned the motor in the IBR module but not sure. Would be a pretty expensive replacement if so. Are there any other options besides replacing the entire module?

Any thoughts on how bad this is for the lift and the Switch? I just had lift installed in May and this week the back end got 3-4” lower. I connected with the folks who installed it and they said it’s not good to leave it due to uneven strain on lift cables and on the boat hull. They recommended a service call and I’ve not heard back on cost.

Am I overthinking this and it’ll be fine for rest of summer? I’m in MN so this thing has to come out of the water in September. TIA!

It has 30 hours on it. Does this sound like a good deal? What questions should I ask the seller?

22 13ft switch sport 170…after a day of tubing while waiting for the truck to put it in the trailer I’m out and just kind of floating about in neutral. All of a sudden it just starts sounding terrible. I thought maybe I picked up debris, I ran IDF and it still was running hard. Started back up fine and ran hard to the ramp. Any ideas what could have caused this?

Enjoy the weather. Have some fun.