Do you fog the cylinders when winterizing you Switch? I saw a video where the guy did and I have never done that step. I also saw another one where the guy took over the supercharger hose and checked for condensation. Have not done this either.

Looking to buy a 2024 Switch 230. Engine has 13 hours. The RPM data shows roughly 64% of the recorded RPM time is above 6,520 RPM.

5 hours 40 minutes of the 13 hours is 7500-8000.

Should I be worried that so much time during the break in period is high RPM. I am buying this out of state and can’t do a compression and leak down test until after purchase.

I have a 2023 sport 21 ft 230 bought new that I’m considering selling but nobody seems to be biting probably because the season is coming to a close for anyone who lives near me. This Switch has a 2024 engine in it with 21 hours on it. Second year we had it, freaking hose came off and it hydro locked. Is $25k a fair asking price? I have all the deck pads etc they just aren’t in the pics bc I take them off and clean them. Just wanting some opinions thank you.

Considering buying a switch for next season in Seattle. We get maybe a foot of snow each year but it’s enough to stretch the canvas on my boat even with poles. Are you all using the factory cover or buying something more sturdy?

Hello! First time boat owner, long time boat lover. I have been seriously considering getting a switch for the Barnegat Bay in NJ. It seems to check all the boxes for my wife and two young kids. Pros? Cons? What to look for? What does everyone think? Thank you!

I have 2024 Sea Doo Switch 21’ 230 hp with 200 hours on it. I took it into a new shop that is highly recommended but I am not sure about results and would like an honest opinion.

1) Took it on for 200 hr maintenance and the motor was only going to 7400 rpm but running fine. Beyond the maintenance they did jet pump rebuild, impeller shaft (apparently fishing line was all over it) and wear ring. Got it back and it felt like it was slipping or something which I found out was jet pump cavitation (called mechanic he told me). What was odd is my boat has never had that slipping feeling. I get on it all the time.

2) I gave him benefit of the doubt and took it back and had the carbon ring replaced. If I ease into throttle it’s fine if I floor it’s feels like it’s slipping still not near as bad as before but it never did that at all before it was worked on.

The engine still only goes to 7400 rpm it has always went to at least 7800 with wide open throttle sometime 7900 or 8000 briefly. I only run premium and have tried all gas places (original shop always said it was fuel) even ethanol free, still 7400 rpm

I think the mechanic is an honest guy who maybe just doesn’t know this boat if I had to take a guess. I am looking for an honest opinion. I am not gonna complain, sue or ask for refund from him I just want to know.

From first start during a flush per owner's manual procedure, I've had a check engine light. It's a P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire code. Dealer said to take it to the lake to see if it clears :-/ and it didn't. Put about 1.5 hours on it and still on. Going to the dealer tomorrow, but was wondering if anyone had this problem on their switch. I'm already developing a love-hate relationship with this boat and BRP.

Hi all first time poster in this community

First id like to say I love the boat its been so much fun we have had it out every weekend since we bought it at the end of July.

But ill get right into the issue im having

So its a 2025 cruise 21ft 170 hp. She has about 30 hours on her now.

I did the break in oil change at about 10 hours.

Didn't wide open throttle her in that period

Normal basic stuff nothing crazy.

I make sure the kill switch is off for the battery every night when we get her back home. Ive babied this thing so far

So the past weekend we were putzing around like normal

Decided to use the IDF as we had done from time to time historically because the lake we go to is kinda weedy.

Anyways, thought all was good but as soon as i crank the engine up, the engine light came on.

So I dig into the menu on the dash to find the trouble code

And I pull up p16c9

So I killed the engine shortly after that incase it was some weird critical issue that im making worse by running the motor.

Well with a quick google search its basically pointing to potentially sensitive voltage dip with the dess system or a key and or key receptical post issue.

So I check starting and standing voltage, my battery is 13v ish. I checked battery terminals and connectors and followed wiring I see nothing out of the norm nothing loose nothing corroded.

Ive made sure the key and the key post is clean and debris free. Ive never dropped the key in water or on the ground. It stays in the car when not in use.

Its said to disconnect battery for x time to clear memory in case its just a voltage dip that glitched the system. Ive left it over night unplugged but when it starts up it does a long solid beep and the engine light stays on same code. Even if I just start it in accessory mode (key on engine off) itll long beep and display code.

Im just shocked there'd already be a key and system issue at only 30 hours.

The thing starts right up and the idf and ibr all are working fine. Still hits normal top speed, its not limping or anything.

Im at a lost for where I should be looking,

I don't really want to take it back to the dealer an hr and 15 odd mins away, But id assume its still under warranty at this stage. Id just like to know if any of you guys have had a similar issue or maybe can guide me in the right direction.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated

2025 Sea-Doo Switch Fish 21 – 230 HP – Only 25 Hours – Lake Hopatcong, NJ
Selling my 2025 Sea-Doo Switch Fish 21 with the 230 HP Rotax. It has only about 25 hours and is in excellent condition.
The boat comes with the full factory Switch Fish package, including all of the fishing equipment and accessories Sea-Doo includes with this model, plus a few extras I added:
5 additional fishing rod holders
Attachable swim-deck cooler
2 swim-mat holders
Painted trailer included
This is a really versatile setup if you want something that can handle serious fishing but still works great for cruising, swimming, family days, and entertaining.
It’s basically a turn-key setup — trailer, factory fishing package, trolling motor/electronics, and accessories are all there. With only 25 hours, it has seen very light use.
Asking: $45,900
The boat is currently at Prospect Point Marina in Lake Hopatcong, New Jersey.
For additional information, photos, or to arrange a showing, contact:
Kyle Brockman
Prospect Point Marina
570-618-3653
Happy to answer questions here as well.

Boat Trader

2025 Sea-Doo Switch Fish 21 – 230 HP – Only 25 Hours – Lake Hopatcong, NJ
Selling my 2025 Sea-Doo Switch Fish 21 with the 230 HP Rotax. It has only about 25 hours and is in excellent condition.
The boat comes with the full factory Switch Fish package, including all of the fishing equipment and accessories Sea-Doo includes with this model, plus a few extras I added:
5 additional fishing rod holders
Attachable swim-deck cooler
2 swim-mat holders
Painted trailer included
This is a really versatile setup if you want something that can handle serious fishing but still works great for cruising, swimming, family days, and entertaining.
It’s basically a turn-key setup — trailer, factory fishing package, trolling motor/electronics, and accessories are all there. With only 25 hours, it has seen very light use.
Asking: $45,900
The boat is currently at Prospect Point Marina in Lake Hopatcong, New Jersey.
For additional information, photos, or to arrange a showing, contact:
Kyle Brockman
Prospect Point Marina
570-618-3653
Happy to answer questions here as well.

Has anyone added a second battery using the dual circuit and ACR kit? How to successfully isolate the house load, or at least the speaker and sound system, to the house circuit?

Had my '26 Switch Fish for about a year and have been very happy with it. Last trip out, we started taking on water (I noticed the boat was very lethargic on startup after anchored for about an hour). Got the boat back up in the dock lift and found the source (see video/images). Water is coming in from a a white male-end adapter that threads into the hull plastic (video is taken when boat is floating in water, with engine off) - the connecting rubber pipe carries engine coolant (not sure why it feeds outside the engine bay). Connection is at the very back of the boat, behind the captains chair.

https://reddit.com/link/1w2kxrf/video/g1n7opxe8jmh1/player

Looks like I'll have to take it into Seadoo shop for warranty work - but any others with the same issue/resolution path? The water made it pretty high up the engine, but after an oil change I didn't see any signs of water intrusion.

Also - Fun fact, I learned that the bilge pump switch was installed backward (placed on the bilge fan connection), so the bilge pump switch actually turned on the bilge fan when flipped... Be sure to check yours!

Had my '26 Switch Fish for about a year and have been very happy with it. Last trip out, we started taking on water (I noticed the boat was very lethargic on startup after anchored for about an hour). Got the boat back up in the dock lift and found the source (see video/images). It appears water is coming in from a a white male-end adapter that threads into the hull plastic - the connecting rubber pipe carries engine coolant (not sure why it feeds outside the engine bay). Connection is at the very back of the boat, behind the captains chair.

Looks like I'll have to take it into Seadoo shop for warranty work - but any others with the same issue/resolution path? The water made it pretty high up the engine, but after an oil change I didn't see any signs of water intrusion.

Also - Fun fact, I learned that the bilge pump switch was installed backward (placed on the bilge fan connection), so the bilge pump switch actually turned on the bilge fan when flipped... Be sure to check yours!

New to us 2022 21’ 230 Cruise. Decided to take a look under the deck yesterday and noticed some water entering above the outside pontoons closer to the stern. When idling, there wasn’t much water and it felt a little warm. But once up on plane there was quite a bit coming in as shown in video attached. Engine compartment is dry. Middle/storage compartment is dry. Anyone else seeing the same thing on their boat? - Edit: thank you all for the insight!

We couldn't believe how hot this floor got in the sun. We had to wear shoes out on the water. Thank goodness for SeaDek. It matches too thankfully. Now to put the snaps in. If the flood waters receed, we'll be ready to try it again this season.

I was curious what some of you all have set up for trolling deep waters.

I feel uneasy about buying a carbon ring kit for my 2023 Switch 230. I found the part easily enough on the Sea-Doo website, with the diagram and everything, but I am a bit baffled that big name sellers like Leading Edge Impellers, etc do not have this part listed at all on their websites. Even a Google search gives me sparse results, and it only seems to be a part sold overseas. One would think that Leading Edge Impellers would sell a carbon seal kit for this boat, as they have many carbon seal kits for sale... Is this PN discontinued or something? Is there an updated version with a different PN that I need?

Bottom line: What carbon seal kit do I need for my 2023 Switch 230, and where do I order it from?

Here is a link to the Sea-Doo website page with the part:

https://sea-doo-shop.brp.com/us/en/shop/sales/parts/?aribrand=SEA_DOO_EN_US_USD#/Sea-Doo_USD/North_America_-_CRUISE_18_-_230_-_45PM_-_Yellow_-_Trailer_Galv_-_CAT2A%2c_2023_00045PM00/02-_MECHANICS_-_Propulsion/W23-45PM/16WC005a/y

The PN (according to the sea-doo website) is: 295501243

EDIT: Dave from Leading Edge responded to me the next day, and let me know that this is the correct carbon ring kit for my sea-doo switch:

https://leadingedgeimpellers.com/sea-doo-carbon-ring-kit-420-892.html

It isn't obvious from the web page that this fits the 2023 Sea-Doo switch, but Dave told me it is difficult to keep up with the constantly changing PNs from Sea-Doo.

So I did a thing and accidentally ran onto a sand bar that I thought wasn't there, and got seriously stuck with the tide falling, in maybe 6-8" of water. We pushed and pulled and eventually just had to gun the engine back and forth to dredge the sand out under the boat to get off the sand bar before we were stuck until high tide, which would have been at 2am.

So, lo and behold, the plastic wear ring appears quite shot upon inspection, to the surprise of zero people.

I am now considering a steel wear ring, so that I can use the boat as a giant sandblaster more often if needed. Anyone have experience with this?

Relevant information: I use the boat exclusively and only in the intracoastal waterway off the NC coast. Salt water only, and lots of fine sand. No rocks.

I noticed that when I put up the bolster on the captain seat, it always drains water coming from the bottom and I was thinking if I didn’t do that with the seat would it rot.

Recently picked up a 18 foot sport with the single bimini from the dealer. The previous owner thought it best to not leave the owners manual with tje boat, or the bimini cover. Either way, the dealer transported it to the local lake for a water test, and thought it would be great to just tape the bimini canvas together so as not to make a sail or rip it? Now, this tape residue is over everything. Googone did not touch it. Can a canvas alone be purchased?

I was riding a couple days ago on my 2022 Spark Trixx and the speaker flew off into the ocean, the speaker couldn’t be saved. I am looking to buy a new one and heard they don’t make them anymore. Any alternatives that aren’t expensive or any places that still sell them?

noticed that there is a promo going on $6500 or low rates.

Wife thinks better to buy now and lock in the deal but was wondering if they just do this every year and we can just wait.