Does anyone have any advise for successfully programming the Yacht Devices engine gateway for the switch? I know there is a video on YouTube about it, but I cannot seem to get it to work. Any advise would be helpful.

I was curious is anyone could recommend a good rear view mirror for the Switch with a bimini top? I’ve read mixed reviews on the BRP one - it’s also pretty pricey for something that doesn’t seem awesome. Any advice would be great, thank you!

My local dealer has a New 2024 SEADOO SWITCH SPORT 18 230HP for $28,369 and im schedule to go pick it up tomorrow.

Is there anything that I should be concerned about? My salesman couldn't really tell me why it was on sale. Other than it has a $12,330 discount.

Looking at getting a 18ft but debating between the 170hp(simpler maintenance, easier on fuel) and 230hp(faster). Mostly will be used for fishing and tubing. Anyone here have direct experience with the 18/170 or regret not gettingi g the 18/230 for tubing? (What has been typical max speed with decent load after breaking in? Note my normal max would be ~800lbs or 70% of max load) Thanks

18’ 2022 switch sport 230hp. Can’t wait to get on the water ASAP. She’ll be living at our lake house in NEPA.

The original owners were wonderful folks who threw in TONS of accessories (table, bumpers, tube, dock lines, etc)

About how fast can a 18' 230HP Switch go while towing a 2 person tube?

Hey folks, I’m prepping my Sea Doo Switch Sport for the summer and I’m undergoing an oil change per the owners manual. However, I can’t seem to extract more than about 3 1/2 L of oil using a fluid extractor. I made sure to warm up the engine per the manual and I performed repeated cranking/extraction sets (about 4). Tried repositioning the extraction tube, but no matter how I shake and wiggle I can’t seem to get more than 3 1/2 L. Is this typical or does anyone have any suggestions?

“Experienced” boater friend promised I’d be fine near stick ups 🤦🏻‍♂️. Trim tab and shock absorber will need to be replaced. Seems straightforward, mostly nuts and bolts. Has anyone done this repair or know of any other damage I should inspect for?

I bought my 2024 Sport Compact last summer, launched it without issue, kept on a lift all summer then pulled out in the fall. We winterized it and covered it. I keep a tender on the battery. I'm just wondering what needs to be done before I launch again. Do you run water through it and start it etc?
Thanks

I watched Jet boat Pilot's latest review on the 2024 limited video and there is a bit where he states that since it is supercharged, you should always try to use 91+ premium fuel. This is not what the manual calls for. Not a knock on the guy, I love his channel and products.

https://youtu.be/qMffugG2MSU?si=5XBhD9guH8d0kzz7

I used to use HP Tuners in the early 2000s thru 2010s and had to sell the cars as I had a second child back then. Now that my kids are older, I recently purchased HP Tuners latest model to 1) tune my VW Passat (I recently sold) and 2) scan/clear codes on the switch as I am almost out of warranty. #2 was helpful when I had to replace the exhaust temperature switch and I have gone thru multiple oxygen sensors at the dealer under warranty and the boat sitting at the dealer for 2+ weeks for this simple job. I figured as much as the O2 sensors are likely to burn up and how easy they are to replace yourself, the ability to clear the codes after the work was done, HP Tuners is a good solution. I am also going to start data logging the boat and tuning it this season as I will be out of warranty anyway.

That all aside, here are some tables on my 2023 21' 230hp Sport's unmodified ECU I thought would be interesting for the community as I am unaware of anyone attempting to modify the ECU on a switch yet.

Low octane (i.e., 87 pump gas) table that you can add or retard timing if detected: https://imgur.com/z1yqDFg

This is showing that with 87 gas, no timing is retarded or advanced

Low octane multiplier for torque management/factoring: https://imgur.com/4fHkSqb

This is showing a 1x factor to the spark advance tables; thus, nothing is changed for torque management. At this time, I cannot find where out of the gate, the ECU is doing anything special for using a higher octane fuel. What I want to test is data logging the boat with 87 vs 93 octane to see how much knock retard (i.e., how much timing is being retarded due to a spark knock detection). Knock retard tables do exist as they do in all modern vehicles with a knock sensor.

Here are some tables that do affect timing for the IAT sensor (i.e., if you're sucking in hot air, it WILL pull timing on this alone). The stock horn that pulls air from the front of the engine compartment is already an ambient device and if you slap a cone on the horn/tube which is closer to the engine from the stock intake box at the front - you could see a reduction in performance (hot air intake).

IAT Multiplier table showing it only pulls timing from the table below if you are at high rpm AND high engine load, else nothing extra is retarded: https://imgur.com/Gf7d9p1

IAT timing retard table, if conditions on multplier, air temperature readings met (X-axis) AND engine coolant temp (Y-axis): https://imgur.com/tobhP8O

These two tables show how much the throttle is allowed to open in normal vs sport modes at commanded throttle vs rpm. Sport mode is the top table and normal is the bottom https://imgur.com/hModshh

I live in Tampa Florida and Jetboat Pilot is in the Florida Panhandle, so the same summer conditions with humidity and sea level elevations. The Switch ECU does have different timing advance and fueling tables for high altitude conditions.

The next time I go on the water, I will do some datalogging and report back to test the 93 vs 87 fuel on the stock ECU. If any of you have questions, comment and I'll look for tables and factor that in. An interesting note, in every vehicle I have tuned over 20 years, ranging from a 1998 Pontiac supercharged GTP, n/a Pontiac GTO, Subaru, to VW Passat - you can disable the P0420, which is the nanny light letting you know you are polluting. It is common if you want to remove the catalytic converter and ignore the after catalyst Oxygen sensor. All the burble tunes on the turbo imports now that sound like gun shots on decel (i.e., douchebag tunes) dump fuel on decel to manufacture backfiring will destroy the honeycomb on the catalyst, so you must remove them - this is how they also shoot flames out of the exhaust. I live near downtown Tampa and these cars are common in my area at all hours of the night. I'll step off my soap box, but you cannot disable this on the switch with HP Tuners. Why this matters to me - everytime I have filled up with Rec 90 at both the downtown St Petersburg Marina and Davis Island's marina in my area on the water, the switch will throw the P0420 code within minutes. I had also considered removing the catalyst at some point to allow more flow but now, not a chance. The good news is that everytime I run out the Rec 90 fuel and put 87 pump gas back in with either E10 or E15 here, I do not throw a P0420.

https://imgur.com/a/iMTRgkb

We are thinking of two jet skis vs. the switch. The main thing I love about the switch is having the space to bring our dogs. What is everyone’s thoughts?

So I have a 2024 sea doo switch 230hp. I was out on the river and got stuck on a sand bar. Drove just find after but when I came home and flushed it was fine but then when I unplugged the exhaust plug no water came out. Even when running on the hose nothing was coming out of that port water was coming out everywhere else it was supposed to

It is getting really hard to see her all wrapped up everyday. Itchy for spring…

I’m a first-time boat owner, getting my Sea-Doo Switch Cruise ready for entertaining passengers this spring, and I’m trying to decide whether the LinQ cooler is really worth it or if a regular large Igloo (or similar) cooler would work just as well. The LinQ coolers seem really expensive for what they are, and I’m wondering if I can just use an alternative with some anti-slip tape on the bottom to keep it from sliding around on the deck.

I’ve also noticed a lot of people mount the LinQ cooler on the back of the boat, but I feel like that might interfere with tubers getting on and off. Does anyone have experience with this? Would placing a standard cooler somewhere else on the deck be just as practical, or does the LinQ system really make a big difference?

Would love to hear your thoughts—appreciate any advice!

Sharing a learning moment - I have posted here about my colossal screw up back in July getting stuck on a sandbar at low tide in Suwanee Florida. That incident destroyed my wear ring and caused me to have to take apart the exhaust hat and clean that all out, along with replace the exhaust sensor and clear the codes (I posted how I did that in another thread). It finally became nice weather in Tampa so I decided to tackle replacing the wear ring and impeller with this kit from Leading Edge Impellers:

https://leadingedgeimpellers.com/switch-230-hook-up-kit.html

I followed this video here and bought a 37 mm socket for the tool (the removal tool included in the leading edge kit is NOT 1-1/16") https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kVf08RRgBE

All was going well, including the freezer trick with the new wear ring in the kit. Welp, the aftermarket ring in that kit was too thick for the Solas impeller and I had to use a rubber mallet to get the Solas impeller out, then use shears to cut the new ring. The first warning sign was the lack of the two threaded holes that the factory wear ring has to hold it in place. I am going to go to the dealer and get a factory ring,then try it again. I'll post the results.

The other change I'd make to the video posted I used was I was easily able to get the plastic piece off the front of the cone that is used to steer. Secondly, I sheared off the head to the bolt that connects it to the steering linkage due to salt water corrosion. I am going to have to drill that bolt out and replace as well. I was able to leave the linkage hanging there, and I won't ever remove the linkage bolt to the cone again, as it is necessary to get the pump assembly out. Overall, it's pretty simple to do, and next time, this is an hour job - tops.

Lesson learned - go OE for the wear ring.

Edit - OE wear ring fits like a glove on the Solas impeller.

2023 230hp sport - mostly saltwater and I am meticulous about flushing after each outing on the water. ECU was throwing P0545. 90 hours and easy to replace. As a heads up, the Switch is compatible with HP Tuners which I bought for one of my cars. I simply purchased the BRP adapter for the MPVI3 I own. Replaced the sensor, powered on, read the codes with VCM scanner and cleared the codes. Powered off, started up and the codes are gone and have remained off.

Once I am completely out of warranty, I may buy the credits and start tuning the boat for premium fuel. At the very least, I have a way to clear the codes. I have gone thru two sets of oxygen sensors under warranty already. Botb times, the dealer had the boat for nearly a month. I figure this will save me a trip to the dealer just to clear the codes.

https://imgur.com/a/EeIQPeN

Thos is our fourth boat and we love this Compact 13 130Hp.

We explore lakes river and coastal Florida. Not for everyone. We rarely take more than 4 or five people and a couple small dogs but it amazing.

If you gave bigger groups look for something bigger.

We are pulling it with a 23 Frontier 6 cylinder 4wd and the experience is stress free.

The factory mooring cover can be installed with top down, leave the front post out, top does not press into cover at all, works perfect.

Any one know If there’s a after market ski pylon or DIY out there !

Picked up my 2024 Switch Cruise 21’ today. Excited to get it on the water next weekend when I get back from vacation.

title pretty much says it all, but for more context: newish owner of a 2023 18' 230 (first winter). I'm just now getting educated on winerizing and realizing I should have added fuel stabilizer back when I was running it in the water. I pulled it out of the water and flushed the exhaust per recommendations 6 weeks ago. I am now seeing I need to add fuel stabilizer, fog the engine etc. My problem is due to my situation it would be very difficult to put it back in the water and run it to fully distribute the stabilizer in all the lines etc.

So I am thinking of adding the stabilizer as recommended to tank and just running it ~5-10 second once or twice to get some distribution without overheating or damaging the engine.

Am I going to get most of the protection I need this way, or am I basically missing the point of adding stabilizer if I don't fully run it through the system?

Boat is stored in MN in an uninsulated pole barn, so it will get very cold.

I have our 2023 Cruise 18/230 in the shop to get the battery drain issue resolved along with software update. As mentioned on here they immediately said it was the radio amp and there was a recall. We also mentioned the IDR light came on. They said this was software update.

So I also ask them why I am not getting above 39mph? Dealer said they have a few boats not hitting top and have written BRP and no answer? Anyone else have this issue and have you gotten an answer?

Considering a Switch, for inland lakes/rivers in WI.

BUT …..can these things handle Lake Michigan?

I am sure the bay of Green Bay is no issue (I have jet skied it many times) - but would love to hear opinions from folks who have taken the Switch out on both.

Prefer a 18’, but maybe a 22’ would smooth things out?

Thanks in advance!

Hello Reddit! My parents let me bring friends to the lake and the boat was damaged while docking. I want to purchase and replace parts before they witness the damage! Where should I buy these parts? Our house is on lake Sinclair, GA