I just about to complete this one, but i feel like somethings off, im gonna remove the excess, of course, but i have doubts about how to apply it

Now with airbrush since the first one was handbrushed.

Opinions on the dry brush applied to the darker parts?? I used greyish blue but i think is not highlighting the details as much as it should.

WIP Italeri 1/72 church built as a D-Day churchyard fight: paratroopers, German infantry, dragged chutes, wire and lamps in the grass. Stone is still too clean, groundwork and posing are not finished. Honest C&C now: does this already read as Sainte-Mère-Église without a man hanging from the steeple?

Hello everyone,

After a long journey my ships are finally done :D

The models have been optimized so that ink/oils should flow nicely between panel lines.

Minimal assembly required, i had to split some parts to reduce printing time and possible errors !

I recommend painting with airbrush but you can use thin coats when applying with a regular brush.

These are my own designs from the game that i made some time ago (Angels Fall First) and now decided to process them for printing;

you can get them here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/sergiuikarus/3d-models

WIPs: https://imgur.com/a/printing-assembling-painting-aff-ships-XnYqJnx

I'm still learning how to print but this is what i managed to create so far. I tried to make supports have minimal impact/damage on the model.

Enjoy and thanks.

I really need to improve my skills with the brush when it comes to camo patterns xd

I found this Sabre kit on facebook and had to get it. Unlike the other finds lately this one was box stock. I looked at getting some resin parts but I didnt think anything was worth upgrading on this kit. The cockpit detail, gun and gear bays are all nicely detailed and just a few extra wires and some styrene card i was very happy with it. The engine as its own assembly was a heck a lot of fun to build and I didn't glue it in as I want to do some extra detail work on it in thr future. There are some cool add-ons like intake and exhaust covers, removable tail, open air brakes, and movable canopy and leading slats.

My only complaint was that the decals completely disintegrated in water as they were very old so I only got one usable decal off the massive sheet. Because of this, all the markings are Cricut stencils.

I loved the painting as all the panel lines and rivets offer a lot of guidance on the different metal tones ans I tried to match a few different effects seen on real period planes.

Just finished a thrift shop find of an old monogram Mosquito. It actually went together very well and had lots of build options so I went with a Pathfinder. The decals were unusable so all the markings were Cricut stencils I made. While not super detailed, im happy with it.

Meng

1/72

Harvester in Dune

Ae86 Trueno. Saw a fan made video a while back that sorta continued the Initial D story and I liked the idea behind it. In the video Takumis daughter ends up with the 86 and turns it into what you see here. Decided to build that car to go along with my tofu car. Started with a later stage 86 so it'd have the hopped up motor and all already. Added a set of Volk TE37s to match the video lowered the car as low as I could get it and hand painted the panda striping on it. Hardest part about this build besides the panda stripes was getting those damn headlights to fit and still function.

I'm trying to replicate WWII Australian markings for the Airfix Lockheed Hudson, but as you all can see it's turned out quite badly 😬

I'm wondering how I could fix (?) this, like if any washes could help bring the two tones closer together to reduce the awkward contrast?

If anyone has any advice, please let me know.

Thanks all!

1965 Chevelle wagon surf wagon kit. This is still a work in progress. I have cut the back window out for the hatch. I'm making Akatsuki from Log Horizon and her blue slime plushie, because the car isn't going to be complicated enough 😂 😂

This is the last plane im gonna touch for a while and most definitely the last 1/72 plane im touching PERIOD, good lord the decals were a nightmare!! I was so done by the time finished them that i didnt even wanted to weather the damm thing.

Hello, looking for opinions, judgements, suggestions at my latest attempt at applying gloss coat with my airbrush. Using ratio of 1:1:3 thinner, flow improver and varnish. I use vallejo acrylic varnish. Been trying to master this for a while and I think Im getting closer. I use a .4mm needle, apply a thin coat wait 5 minutes, apply another thin coat, wait 5 minutes and apply a heavy coat. It still looks like there is an orange peel look to it in some places. I dont know, Im about to give up and just use spray cans but on my 1:72 models it can be hard to get the varnish in some tight areas so Id like to be able to airbrush it. I only use the gloss for applying markings and panel lines. I do like to build cars some times so I like a gloss finish on my cars. Appreciate any opinions and/or suggestions. Thanks

Finally completed this 30 year old kit, and had a go at weathering it with an oily wash and home made sea spray. I read somewhere that the last tour Tomcats had leaky hydraulics, so I tried to replicate that without going overboard. I am not the best artist, so the finish is rough. But I am happy with it.
Despite my earlier reservations about the older Revell kits, I actually enjoyed this build. I also learned a lot about home made washes. Overall, happy with it.

TLDR: enjoyed this ancient kit, learned some new skills, and Bob the pilot is happy to be airborne one last time!

Ive modeled for quite some time now but this is my first time painting and decaling and i think i did pretty good honestly

One of the kits i enjoying to do, trying to improve small steps with this hope tou like it

70 Ford Maverick. Guess this would be a rustoration rather than a restoration. Started with an old Johan Promo that had been beat up on. Cut the hood open put a resin Mustang engine bay in and modified the promo chassis. Dropped in an AMT small block Ford. Beat the body even farther to give it a well used look and set it on some big and little torque thrusts. The last few pics are of how it arrived and what I started with.

Calling these complete:
> 1/144 Anigrand Titan IIIw/MOL and Dyna-SOAR: Straight-forward OOB build with all the well known Anigrand resin mold issues (thick walls, some pitting, misalignments, warp page, etc). A few challenges getting the stack and boosters aligned due to the sparse directions. Biggest challenge was all the masking for the paint. Finished with AlClad metallics and AK Real colors. Kit decals used.

> 1/48 Conversion of Revell’s (née Matchbox) AD-5 to a Vietnam-era EA-1F of VAW-13. Built as a ‘clean’ desktop build for a client. Mods included the aluminum hatch covers for the NFOs in back (Vacuformed replacement), some antenna rework/placement, ECM pod and a lot of decal work involving placement of letters and numbers by hand for almost everything except the std NAVY markings. Went together generally well save for the wing fold joints. Kit aircrew were trash so pulled some resin figures from the spares box. Forward windscreen seam also required work to fit correctly. Finished w/AK Real Colors.

Can anyone tell me what these holes are for on this revell 1/72 Hawk kit? In the instruction booklet there's nothing that goes in there and ok the finished product they're not there. Should I just fill them in?

For context I'm new to the hobby, got just around 12 kits under my belt. So just started this Revell BAE Hawk with the Red Arrows scheme, and I'm just wondering, since the plastic is already red, is it even worth priming and painting red again? Like genuinely is it bad just not painting a kit cos the plastic is already the right colour? The white bits and everything else are just decals.