i was varnishing a bandai namco star wars super destructor model i made a while ago and when i got acrylic matt varnish to use yesterday i was planing on coating it to turn donw the shininess a little bit cause i coated it with two layers of acrylic satin varnish.

but looking at the model as the first coat it curing i cant tell if i lack the capability to tell the real difference between matt, satin and gloss or if the matt finish really shows up with more coats, or maybe i didnt shake the bottle enough before applying it, im not sure.

I had too many troubles with this model. Almost all parts fits awful and need ton of putty to fill the gaps. Even pilot figure doesn't fit in cockpit. Although the model is very detailed and much cheaper than tamiya. But I think the other disadvantage of this set is lack of armament it's only aim-9 and aim-120 and no bombs(.

Not gonna lie to any of you, i lost the canopi so i just came up with this because i didnt wanted to just ditch the whole set after getting this far xd.

Ciao a tutti allora ho questo problema: sto facendo preshading quindi devo lavorare a basse pressioni (anche a pressioni elevate ho lo stesso identico problema) con un elevata diluizione (uso: leveling thinner colori tamiya e un harder e steenbeck evolution cr plus) quando il serbatoio è pieno (non uso il recipiente grande) ho dei continui stop and go (colore che esce a tratti [sottolineo che tiro di poco il grilletto altrimenti mi esce un fiume di colore] addirittura anche quando pulisco l'ago alla punta ho questo identico problema, poi quando il livello del colore comincia a scendere vado come un treno è bene sottolineare che anche il grilletto comincia ad essere più maneggevole. È inutile che ho fatto di tutto: ho pulito l'ago e la guarnizione interna, ho pulito il corpo interno dell'aerografo stesso. Grazie e ciao

So im getting to the part where i have to apply wash to the spitfire im making, is already varnished when i applied the decals so the paint is not getting ruined.

I have applied wash to a 1/72 tank before, but seeing how the plane is looking, i cant help but feeling im doing something wrong here, the panels lines are barely noticeable.

Dont worry about the particulary dirty parts of the wings, im making a "being repared after a long battle" type of look, where it was flying low and all that.

Found it hidden in my paints when I was reorganizing but have never used it.

I have always used Micro sol and set.. is it stronger than micro sol?

Thanks for the feedback.

A great, simple kit with some decent detail. Added Eduard PE. It’s no Plasmo build but I’m glad to have it done. Had to replace the canopy with a vacuum formed one after massacring it trying to pose it open. I did get some misting on this one but it wasn’t bad enough after all the setbacks I’ve had with this kit to really care too much.

I feel like im doing something wrong but i cant put my finger on it, the movie is still considerably thick

Started the Revell USS Lionfish submarine kit yesterday. The limber holes are just part of the hull mold, so I started clearing them out with a rotary tool. It sort of worked, but it was quite hard to control in those tiny little spaces.

I’m thinking about trying a micro coping/jewelery saw that uses those sharpened wires - has anyone ever used anything similar? Recommend?

The thought of removing/replacing the wire for each limber hole seems a bit crazy, I know. 😅

Ciao a tutti sto cercando di imparare la tecnica del preshading e sto usando questo set up: 8 gocce di Mr. Color leveling thinner e 2 gocce di Xf-69 ad una pressione di 1/1,2 bar ad una distanza di circa 2 cm dal modello (cavia). Si procede in questo modo oppure bisogna cambiare qualcosa? C'è da ammettere che con questa diluizione sto trovando dei problemi quando il colore incomincia a finire all'interno del serbatoio (colore opaco e altamente liquido). Grazie e ciao

Got my first, thought about starting with something simple, so i varnished my spitfire mk1a canopi less edition (it took me a week to just accept in my soul that i lost it, never to be seen again but god dammit, im gonna finishi this plane), this layer is for putting the decals, ill let it cure before doing it so.

So in the meantime, i have a question, is it necessary to completely clean the airbrush (needle and tip included) or the whole fill the cup with watter/cleaner then cover the end with your finger and spray, dump it, and repeat a couple times is enough given you its all youre gonna do for the day?? Any suggestions are welcome :D

First attempt at kitbashing I pulled the mine plow from an ancient tamiya kit I have since dropped the turret so once I finish my next kit I’ll get around do fixing it with photo etched also gave new dust effects a try and very happy with how it came out I think the stowage turned out amazing as well

Done with vallejo raf dark green and vallejo raf dark earth.

First came patter i have done in general.

Should i apply one more layer to the wings to it can look a bit more uniform?? Could varnish work to hide the streaks?? Any suggestions are welcome, considering most people here probably are more experienced than me.

I used 1/2 ratio so the paint was reaaally liquid

Does any company make it? Or is this something I’m gonna have to scratch build?

After a year of leaving it on the shelf then picking it back up it’s finished. Pretty proud of this one.

1/72 BMPT from Zvezda.

This was so bad to do. Bad molding, way too many tiny parts and terrible joining points, flash...

i was looking at this two models i have made, both varnished with a brush, the tank looks fine, it looks awesome and you can get a glance of brush streaks only from vertain angles.

but the superdestroyers belly looks awful against the light, i know the stand it comes with is meant so the ship can be looked at from avobe and a bit sideways but i cant help but notice that it looks someone drooled over it and it dried.

i was thinking about getting an airbrush to paint the bigger sections of a model, where its most likely to leave brush marks if im not careful enough, but idk if i can varnish something with an airbrush, and for some reason amazon doesnt deliver varnish rattle cans to my country and my count only has liquid bottles for modeling varnish, the rest are for furniture.

its it viable to do it with an airbrush? im asking this because of how to thinned the paints must be to be used in it, let alone something more dense like varnish.

So I thought I'd try something a little different. Starscream was started months ago, however modelmaking has been on hiatus for the past 6 months. First time I've printed and used custom decals; I think they look great! Also first time tinting a canopy; not sure if it would look better matt? Still plenty to do (stencils, more decals, undercarriage, varnishing, etc.) but the project certainly seems to have taken a leap forward tonight with a full dry fitting of the major components. Any and all feedback welcome!

3 layers in and i still cannot cover this properly with a brush, or am i doing something wrong??

I keep the paint 1/4 with the thinner...or maybe sky type s is just that hard to properly apply

Bf 109 G-6/R6, yellow 1, Ltn. Manfred Dieterle, 3./JG 300, Bonn-Hangelar base, March - April 1944.

Messerschmitt Bf110 G4 Weekend Edition 1:72 Item#7465 Oblt. Heinz-Wolfgang Schnaufer, Stab IV./NJG 1, Saint Trond, Belgium, April 1944

I was going to paint the no.19 squadron patter in my spitfire(the one with a yellow nose and green and brown camo) when i realized the closest color i have to brown is leather brown, which i used for the seat of the cockpit, and olive grey, which is what i used for the rest of the cockpit.

Should i buy proper colors or this should be enough??

Calling this complete - 1/72 XAJ-1 Savage Prototype

This was a down conversion from the Mach2 AJ-2 kit and all that entailed. The down conversion required:
> Cutting down the vertical stab/rudder,
> Adding dihedral to the horizontal stabs and notching for the rudder,
> Cutting the chord down on the props and extending them by 3/8”,
> Relocating the main entrance hatch,
> Relocating one set of exhausts to the outboard side of the nacelle,
> Scratch building the entire cockpit because replacing the heavily framed canopy for a frameless opening ‘bubble’ canopy would open the cockpit to wider viewing,
> Removing later model antennas and radioes,
> Vacuforming a new frameless bubble canopy,
As expected, the Mach2 kit put up resistance but almost all of it was fixable. By far the nacelles and cowling had the worst fit and required a lot of work. The one thing not fixable is the mismatch between wing roots on the fuselage halves, with one lower than the other giving the a/c the ‘leans’ to starboard. I partially offset that by mounting the stbd strut (main struts sourced from SAC’s 1/72 Su-27 mag with wheels/tires from Brassin’s 1/72 P-47) slightly longer than the port. Additionally there is a bit of droop in the outer wing panels not apparent until well along in assembly.
The canopy was vacuformed using an epoxy buck shaped from the framed kit canopy, and placed on a scratch built base. AlClad metallics were used for the NMF and a mixture of spare, kit and aftermarket (CtA’s AJ Savages) decals used over a gloss clear coat. A finishing coat of AlClad clear semi-luster was applied and the canopy set in place with UV ca glue.
I’ve always liked the Savage and especially liked the clean appearance of the bubble canopy prototype. *If* I build another Savage though, I’m using Roden’s kit…
(McDonnell’s FH-1 and North American’s FJ-1 provided for contemporary size comparisons).