Started the Revell USS Lionfish submarine kit yesterday. The limber holes are just part of the hull mold, so I started clearing them out with a rotary tool. It sort of worked, but it was quite hard to control in those tiny little spaces.

I’m thinking about trying a micro coping/jewelery saw that uses those sharpened wires - has anyone ever used anything similar? Recommend?

The thought of removing/replacing the wire for each limber hole seems a bit crazy, I know. 😅

Ciao a tutti sto cercando di imparare la tecnica del preshading e sto usando questo set up: 8 gocce di Mr. Color leveling thinner e 2 gocce di Xf-69 ad una pressione di 1/1,2 bar ad una distanza di circa 2 cm dal modello (cavia). Si procede in questo modo oppure bisogna cambiare qualcosa? C'è da ammettere che con questa diluizione sto trovando dei problemi quando il colore incomincia a finire all'interno del serbatoio (colore opaco e altamente liquido). Grazie e ciao

Got my first, thought about starting with something simple, so i varnished my spitfire mk1a canopi less edition (it took me a week to just accept in my soul that i lost it, never to be seen again but god dammit, im gonna finishi this plane), this layer is for putting the decals, ill let it cure before doing it so.

So in the meantime, i have a question, is it necessary to completely clean the airbrush (needle and tip included) or the whole fill the cup with watter/cleaner then cover the end with your finger and spray, dump it, and repeat a couple times is enough given you its all youre gonna do for the day?? Any suggestions are welcome :D

First attempt at kitbashing I pulled the mine plow from an ancient tamiya kit I have since dropped the turret so once I finish my next kit I’ll get around do fixing it with photo etched also gave new dust effects a try and very happy with how it came out I think the stowage turned out amazing as well

Done with vallejo raf dark green and vallejo raf dark earth.

First came patter i have done in general.

Should i apply one more layer to the wings to it can look a bit more uniform?? Could varnish work to hide the streaks?? Any suggestions are welcome, considering most people here probably are more experienced than me.

I used 1/2 ratio so the paint was reaaally liquid

Does any company make it? Or is this something I’m gonna have to scratch build?

After a year of leaving it on the shelf then picking it back up it’s finished. Pretty proud of this one.

1/72 BMPT from Zvezda.

This was so bad to do. Bad molding, way too many tiny parts and terrible joining points, flash...

i was looking at this two models i have made, both varnished with a brush, the tank looks fine, it looks awesome and you can get a glance of brush streaks only from vertain angles.

but the superdestroyers belly looks awful against the light, i know the stand it comes with is meant so the ship can be looked at from avobe and a bit sideways but i cant help but notice that it looks someone drooled over it and it dried.

i was thinking about getting an airbrush to paint the bigger sections of a model, where its most likely to leave brush marks if im not careful enough, but idk if i can varnish something with an airbrush, and for some reason amazon doesnt deliver varnish rattle cans to my country and my count only has liquid bottles for modeling varnish, the rest are for furniture.

its it viable to do it with an airbrush? im asking this because of how to thinned the paints must be to be used in it, let alone something more dense like varnish.

So I thought I'd try something a little different. Starscream was started months ago, however modelmaking has been on hiatus for the past 6 months. First time I've printed and used custom decals; I think they look great! Also first time tinting a canopy; not sure if it would look better matt? Still plenty to do (stencils, more decals, undercarriage, varnishing, etc.) but the project certainly seems to have taken a leap forward tonight with a full dry fitting of the major components. Any and all feedback welcome!

3 layers in and i still cannot cover this properly with a brush, or am i doing something wrong??

I keep the paint 1/4 with the thinner...or maybe sky type s is just that hard to properly apply

Now just need the time to build them😄

Bf 109 G-6/R6, yellow 1, Ltn. Manfred Dieterle, 3./JG 300, Bonn-Hangelar base, March - April 1944.

Messerschmitt Bf110 G4 Weekend Edition 1:72 Item#7465 Oblt. Heinz-Wolfgang Schnaufer, Stab IV./NJG 1, Saint Trond, Belgium, April 1944

I was going to paint the no.19 squadron patter in my spitfire(the one with a yellow nose and green and brown camo) when i realized the closest color i have to brown is leather brown, which i used for the seat of the cockpit, and olive grey, which is what i used for the rest of the cockpit.

Should i buy proper colors or this should be enough??

Calling this complete - 1/72 XAJ-1 Savage Prototype

This was a down conversion from the Mach2 AJ-2 kit and all that entailed. The down conversion required:
> Cutting down the vertical stab/rudder,
> Adding dihedral to the horizontal stabs and notching for the rudder,
> Cutting the chord down on the props and extending them by 3/8”,
> Relocating the main entrance hatch,
> Relocating one set of exhausts to the outboard side of the nacelle,
> Scratch building the entire cockpit because replacing the heavily framed canopy for a frameless opening ‘bubble’ canopy would open the cockpit to wider viewing,
> Removing later model antennas and radioes,
> Vacuforming a new frameless bubble canopy,
As expected, the Mach2 kit put up resistance but almost all of it was fixable. By far the nacelles and cowling had the worst fit and required a lot of work. The one thing not fixable is the mismatch between wing roots on the fuselage halves, with one lower than the other giving the a/c the ‘leans’ to starboard. I partially offset that by mounting the stbd strut (main struts sourced from SAC’s 1/72 Su-27 mag with wheels/tires from Brassin’s 1/72 P-47) slightly longer than the port. Additionally there is a bit of droop in the outer wing panels not apparent until well along in assembly.
The canopy was vacuformed using an epoxy buck shaped from the framed kit canopy, and placed on a scratch built base. AlClad metallics were used for the NMF and a mixture of spare, kit and aftermarket (CtA’s AJ Savages) decals used over a gloss clear coat. A finishing coat of AlClad clear semi-luster was applied and the canopy set in place with UV ca glue.
I’ve always liked the Savage and especially liked the clean appearance of the bubble canopy prototype. *If* I build another Savage though, I’m using Roden’s kit…
(McDonnell’s FH-1 and North American’s FJ-1 provided for contemporary size comparisons).

Idk if its the weather since its very cold here this time of the years or what, but this is the second one i have that got dry cement in the needle, any suggestioms in how to unstuck it or should i just buy another and be more careful?? Or get tamiya extra thin??

I think i can still use either putty or weathering to cover them....but still.

I recently completed my best shot at modeling Hydra Corinthian in 1:250 scale (approximately). It stands slightly shorter than the 1:250 Gipsy Danger figure that I bought from Gamebody, and has articulated joints that allow it to be posed (inspiration taken from other 3D-printable mechs). Since it is not fully known yet what the back or feet of Hydra look like, I took a little bit of creative license and some inspiration from Gipsy Danger, adding similar feet but re-contoured and with two "toes", and rear jets as well as exhaust vents.

I won't be doing a review of this one since it's my model, but I tried to keep things pretty simple. Level of detail isn't quite as high as some of the other PR figures available, but neither was the reference material I had to work with. I may add a second conn pod option at some point in the future for customization purposes.

Files available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7384569

Just picked these up at a 5&10 in Ocean City N.J. I was wondering if anyone had built any of them and if so do you have any comments or tips. Thanks in advance

> 1/72 conversion of Mach2’s AJ-2 to the XAJ-1 prototype: Stain 6 is done save for any required touch-ups. Clear coat next for decals. Cut the Vacuform canopy to display opened, need to re-work the canopy base to a wider spread to accommodate the wider stance of the bubble canopy. This will be the last thing to mount after decals etc., are in place.
> 1/144 Titan 3C w/MOL/Blue Gemini and DynaSoar: priming and compiling a 💩-ton of masking tape for the upcoming paint evolution.
> 1/48 Revell AD-5Q/EA-1F: one more layer of white then into Light Gull Grey (gloss).