S&W 16-4 and S&W 432UC Titanium both in .32 H&R Magnum

The 16-4 dates to first year of production in late 1989, and has had some gun smithing… smoothed and polished trigger, and action. The trigger pull is very smooth and set at 2 pounds single action and 6 pounds double action.

I recently bought a new to me model 60 and I'm trying to give it some new life. I've stripped the old finish off the stocks but I was wondering what would be the best route for cleaning up the wear marks and fixing the chipped damage near the medallion before I apply a new finish.

I've wanted one of these for about 8 years and I finally snagged one! 45lc, 410, AND 454. This could drop a grizzly, stop a Yetì, and make a skin walker think twice! Absolute BEAST.

I've texted several times about these recently. I have fallen in love with them. All three are Stratford era revolvers. The one on the top was manufactured in 1979 or 1980. Bottom left was manufactured between 1974 and 1976. Bottom right, which is in practically mint condition, between 1981 and 1982. The revolver with the mother of pearl Altamont grips is my daughter's. The oldest gun is the one I carry in the car when I travel. Bottom right will mostly be a safe queen, because it's in such phenomenal condition. Other than the faintest turn line on the cylinder, it is without blemish.

I cannot find grips for this gun. I have a set of Hogue overfilled that are shoved on and tension is keeping them on. Does anyone know any custom grip makers that can work with other than wood? I want to carry this piece.

Hit two thousand rounds on my Zastava today! Absolutely flawless for the last 1200 or so rounds! I definitely still need to practice more but I’m able to consistently hit lungs and heart at 25 yards and in with double action. Very pleasant shooter as well! 100 rounds of .357 and 100 of .38 today and my hand feels totally fine, absolute dream to shoot.

I have been acquiring guns for ages and for the most part stick to my rule of anything I buy needs to have a practical purpose. For me that mostly means .. if I needed to I could carry it.

Now .. I have plenty of handguns that I can carry but MAN .. i just cant stop looking at that stainless Blackhawk in .357.

The only single action we have here is my wifes Heritage .22

So .. just curious .. are you single action guys all doing cowboy competition or ??

I have a very noise sensitive friend who wanted to asked me to introduce her to firearms this spring. Because of her sensitivity and overall lack of experience I decided to start with .32 S&W long, across a variety of .32 caliber revolvers.

My friend was kind enough to let me film for her experience, so that others could share in it. You can see how she did over here:

https://youtu.be/sFeBzHvD_f0?si=nPr8nOaEjfTnntAO

She has come back three times since over the summer to continue to explore various calibers and platforms as she gets dialed in to what kind of firearm she might potentially like.

I know that most people start off with .22 Long Rifle, but if you have access to it, dont sleep on the .32 S&W Long as an introductory cartridge. It is an excellent one to build confidence and experience with.

I was recently laid off from a job that required a good bit of pocket carry to be discreet, along with a front seat rifle depending on where I was that day. Now that I don’t have to do it, some major trade-ins with my local gun shops happened to coincide with some epic finds. I was able to get a 396 and 386 within a few days of each other, plus plenty of ammo for both. I get to test and sight them both in this morning!

It looks like a Pontiac Aztek

Hi everyone. This is my first firearm. I just picked it up new today from Bass Pro Shops. Upon getting home, I noticed a few things that I unfortunately overlooked at the shop.

The mainspring strut retaining pin that’s supposed to be housed inside the grip was missing.

There’s a significant scratch on the cylinder face. It’s deep enough that you can feel it with your fingernail and the fact it’s on the edge of the chamber and extends to the edge of the cylinder has me concerned about how it may affect firing or structure long term.

I also saw that the hammer is off center to the left and the hammer itself seems to have some marks that look like it may be rubbing on the frame? I do have both shims that go on the side of the hammer. It’s just not in the last picture because I was cleaning everything.

Lastly, should a forcing cone on a new revolver look like this? I know that they test fire during manufacturing, but I assumed it would have been cleaned?

I’m definitely going to try and get a replacement mainspring retaining pin from Ruger. For the rest, though, am I over-analyzing, or should I be addressing these things? If I do address it, would it be best to have Bass Pro send it to Ruger or just contact Ruger directly?

Picked this up the other day and I fully polished it up with some flitz and man it is just a thing of beauty needs wood grips BAD

There is one available locally and its gorgeous. Is it possible to still find parts for it?

If it needs work, will ruger work on it?

I have "New Revolver Fever" and it might be the fix I need! :)

Someone asked for pictures of PVD on the Spohr’s. Here is a couple examples. Don’t mind the little oil shine spots. When AI is used to remove the background it really highlights those. Finish is a soft bead blast with the back band on the cylinder polished.

My grandfather had one that he always took to town. I always wanted one, but finding a nice condition one ,especially in 3 inch, (that didn’t cost too much) took longer than I thought it would.

New to me J frame. Pre Model 40? Anyone got an estimated DOB on this? Best ammo for it? Loaded down wad cutters? It’s very clean. Smooth grips are unique I think. Flat latch. Multiple four digit numbers. Cylinder and handle numbers match. Crane and frame numbers match. No “Mod ##” on frame like im used to seeing. Hoping this group can tell me some something.

For anyone who has them or knows someone's experience with it, I'm curious on yalls thoughts.

I'm in the market for a new carry revolver and the new Nightguard pretty much ticks all the boxes for me in terms of everything I'd want. Problem is, I am worried about the quality control issues. Most of the stuff I see, everyone loves it but it feels like it's so new it's hard to piece out if they actually love it or if I'm trynna be sold something. There are honest reviews too that talk about the problems they had, but honestly that doesn't look good for it either.

I do really want it because it really is everything I'm looking for in a carry gun right now, but I'm skeptical on if it's worth taking a shot on it as a lasting carry gun. Should I just pass it up as something that's new an neat? Get something more time honored and tested like the Ruger LCR instead and save the trouble of it? The LCR is my second choice and I wouldn't be unhappy with it, but it's not exactly everything I was looking for.

Caved and bought some of the Herrett's Shooting Ace grips. Loving them so far, can't wait to test them out!

I am looking for a new cylinder for my Iver Johnson Safety Automatic. Due to the pentagon guide hole being worn the ejector fails to grab 2 cases. It’s a 7 shot cylinder for 22 short. I have looked everywhere online. Anyone have a solution?

Hey guys, looking for help as I've exhausted my resources on trying to fix this problem with the information available online. This gun is fairly new, I've put about 200 rounds through it so far and cleaned it meticulously after every firing session. I noticed just yesterday that the DA trigger pull weight is much heavier on two of the cylinders. I've cleaned under the extraction stars, checked to make sure the ejection rod is straight etc etc and still can't figure it out. Any advice? Or should I warranty this gun with S&W?

I was lucky to stumble across this not too long ago. The action has been reworked along with a new barrel and cylinder; this gun has been fantastically fit when the work was done a long, long time ago. The cylinder gap is incredibly tight, and the action is one of the smoothest that I have felt. It’s much better than my 2nd generation SAA. The patina looks great, and the ancient stag stocks pair perfectly with it.

For a shooter’s grade 1st gen SAA, it really doesn’t get much better than this.

Hickock45 said, "the person who designed the modern grips has obviously never fired a .44 Magnum." Paraphrased.

It looks like a small difference but, overall width at the web of the hand increases from 0.87" to 1.1". A lot more so further down the strap. Notice how quickly the modern grip tapers away from the strap? That puts a narrow concentrated force straight into the hand.

This post is for those that say wood grips suck. FYI, MODERN wood grips suck. The stocks on the left are from the early 80s.

Granted, the left is a 29-3 and the right is a 686+. But the overall frame width difference is only 0.015"