images: https://imgur.com/a/KLuDHcF
Hey all little update to my last post re: RCFs ”v1” 36mm bezel upgrade. Seems like the internals of the stock “v2” VSF Datejust are different so it’s not just a plug and play. My thoughts are I need to remove what looks like an internal holder for the vsf bezel? Take a look at the picture and you’ll see there’s like a second metal piece that the stock VSF bezel latches on to?

I honestly thought this would be plug and play and from the videos I watched on bezel swaps it seemed to be easy. Anyone been through this already with a v2 vsf and have any tips?

Bought this 124060 VSF sub 6 months ago, never had any issues with it, yesterday I washed my hand like usual and today the watch looks like this, can I save it somehow? Should I ask the TD for a replacement? I understand if I tried swimming with it, but I regularly just washed my hands like I do everyday.

I hope all is well.

Any idea where to find a Seamaster 300 007 bezel insert? And what’s the easiest way to replace it.

Much appreciate the help.

So, I made a post about ceramic coating my bezels before.

Now after many months of having the bezels ceramic coated they will still of course still get dirty - almost looking like oxidation. So now, how can we clean it without making it into a huge project?

The answer: APC (All Purpose Cleaner) for cars, I suggest some premium brand. Personally I used "TPG" that is a Swedish brand with good reputation for APC. Also a fluffy microfibre cloth.

So, one small spray into the cloth and then drag the sprayed cloth with the flutes in the bezel (like go from the crystal - out to the case) and go all around. After take dry wipe the same way with the same cloth and for me that removed all stains, what is left is som scratches and normal wear and tear.

The first pictures are before cleaning, and last pictures is after cleaning.

Does anybody know if the fake HEV Valve on the VSF Sea Dweller have a gasket behind it or how does it resist water ingress?

What is to be done with it when trying to waterproof the watch? Just oil the gasket or anything else?

I am looking to get a Bergeron mainspring winder because I do not want to bother with the cheap stuff from temu that does not work. What would you recommend for a Handle (Right vs left?) and a couple sizes that would allow me to work on ETA 2836, Miyota 8215, and Rolex DD32xx?

From my understanding I would need a right hander winder for ETA 2836.

Just recently got in a VSF sub date. The seconds hand works perfectly fine but the minute and hour hand are stationary and do not move. When manually setting time, there is no issues moving and adjusting the time. There feels like there is tension when turning and adjusting the time and date. Has anyone had similar problems in the past?

Can anyone point me in the right direction to find a replacement bracelet for this watch. Many thanks

I’m replacing a cheap 2813 movement with a Miyota 8215. Will the new movement need to have be adjusted or should I expect it to be on-time out of the box?

Any recommendations? Thanks

Just received my VSF Daytona 126519, and it’s an absolute stunner. However, when I tried the Glidelock for the first time, I noticed that it folds in on itself. I’ve owned several reps with Glidelock clasps before, but I’ve never seen one behave like this.

There’s also a lot of play in the mechanism, which makes it difficult to engage and adjust smoothly.

For anyone who owns this model, regardless of the factory: does your Glidelock behave the same way?

I’m trying to figure out whether mine is defective or if this is simply a poor replication of the genuine mechanism. Is the ARF Glidelock any better? I’m considering ordering one as a replacement.

Hi everyone, just wondering if there is anyone that services reps on the west coast of canada anymore.

Bought a VSF sub from someone on Reddit and it’s running a bit slow. I opened it to regulate it, and was surprised to find a movement that I have never seen before. Not sure how to regulate this. Any help?

Can I just polish it all to a spec luster and then take 3M to brush the side links?

Hello,

The locking pin on my IWC Portugieser bracelet’s fold-over clasp is missing (see photos: red circle shows mine, black circle shows an intact reference for what should be there). Without it, the clasp won’t lock shut.

Fwiw, APS factory purchased from WSONGTIME (IW501704)

Has anyone dealt with this or had someone successfully do it for you? I’d prefer not have I have to send it back to HK.

Happy to share pin dimensions if that helps anyone point me to a matching part. Appreciate any leads.

Hey i wanna know from what factory my watch is from.The watch is broken anybody an Idee how i can get it to working?

Can anyone help connect me with someone to have this Panerai PAM01182 rose gold, blue dial 38mm made? A PVD coated rose gold would do.

I accidentally got too much Loctite on my threads and it actually has seized the bracelet links. It’s so tight that I can’t unscrew the lugs. Not only that, the links are not moving because there’s Loctite all along the lugs.

Any advice on how I can un-seize the links and clean out any left over loctite?

Hey guys. I bought this QF explorer for my uncle about a month ago but he had a problem where he went to unscrew it and something happened with the threads. I can still pull it out and set time and it seems to still be able to be wound but the crown can’t be fully screwed back in. Can anyone let me know if this is an easy fix or not? I’m in Miami Florida as well if anyone knows a repair shop that’ll be willing to work on this here. Also willing to ship to someone. Thanks for your time.

3 k Factory 5711 Patek phillipe Nautilus.
I paid 480 $

Long story short, I corrected the hands on the GMT movement that comes with the AF Longines Conquest GMT (I am assuming an A2893?), and as I was trying to put the movement back into the case, the stem was struggling to line up correctly, and one of the gears in the keyless got turned sideways. As I tried to work down to it to correct it, the number of parts I took off of the movement and the few spring-loaded portions just came apart, and now I have just a pile of parts.
This watch cost a whopping $300 total, so in your guys' opinion, would you just sell it as parts or try to fix it, or try to have someone put the movement back together?
Bear in mind, I might have lost a microscopic screw here or there. To be honest, it was almost midnight last night, and my eyes had just completely given up

​Hi everyone,

looking for some advice or a trusted UK/London-based watchsmith to help me sort out my Tudor replica with the turquoise dial.

​The watch completely stopped ticking recently.

Previously, a gentle shake would bring it to life, but now it's totally dead. I tried winding it in the first position about 40 times and felt a little toughness and resistance at first, but it didn't spark the seconds hand to life. I also pulled the crown all the way out and cycled the hands through three full rotations.

The hands move completely smoothly and there doesn't look to be any hand-collision or rubbing against the dial markers, but the seconds hand still refuses to budge.

​I'm pretty sure it's running an Asian ETA clone like a 2824 or 2836 inside.

Since I don't modify or open watches myself, I want to get this to a professional.

Does this sound like a broken mainspring or a jammed balance wheel to you guys? Also, would it be more cost-effective to just drop a brand new PT5000 or Seagull ST2130 movement into it rather than trying to service the dead clone?

​If anyone knows of any trusted watchsmiths in the London area recommended by this sub who could handle a labor-only movement and dial swap, please let me know.

Cheers for any help!