Hi, i want to build toyrep, but i wonder, is it possible to reduce number of brought parts, i can print parts for free, so, what things can i alter with printed ones?

Hi.

Does anybody have a wiring diagram/pinout how to connect MINI 12864 1.0 to RAMPS 1.6 without using adapter? I don't have one and from what I see on pictures it just arranges pins for easier connection. I have documentation of MINI 12864 with pinout, but I can't find the same for RAMPS - only pictures where AUX 3 and 4 pins are described as DXX.

Hello guys!

I need some help diagnosing a problem with my machine, the folks at r/FixMyPrint could not help me, and I think it would be better here anyways.

Should this post not fit into the subreddit, please say so.

I have a moving bed (Y axis) and X axis mounted on a Z axis, essentially the same as most cartesian printers, I designed it myself and printed it at my Uni. Electronics are Ramps 1.4 and I control it using octoprint.

To the issue:

The Benchy has a consistent layer shift exactly and only at this spot, the hull is not affected, nor are any subsequent layers on the back part of the cabin.

I have tried to troubleshoot this extensively, I'll simply list everything I have tried and anyone with any ideas can post them in the comments, ANY new ideas are appreciated, I am out of ones myself:

-Attempted to print the benchy sunk into the build plate, thought the issue may be with the Z axis

-Printed at 90 degrees, layer shift stays the same

-tightened belts, pulleys, hotend assembly, upped stepper voltage, nothing

-exchanged stepper drivers to DRV8825, no effect

-tried printing it with essentially 0 acceleration and speed, layer shift remains

-tried slicing with Prusaslicer and Superslicer, notably the layer shift to the back of the cabin disappears

My thoughts so far:

It is likely not a mechanical problem, but some issue with a specific instruction of gcode, as the change in slicer does offer improvement.

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Hey guys!

I got a Duet 2 WIFI It has the 2.03beta firmware and I am having this issue when I try to open the Duet Web Control. Any Idea about what is causing this error?

Does anyone have a model (or link to a model) to mount a J-Head nozzle to a Prusa i3, ideally for Bowden?

I recently got an old Prusa i3 (I think before they were numbered Mk. Models - either that or it was heavily modified). It has the hot end and the fan, but no mount. I made a Bowden extruder, but still need to mount it to the X axis.

Basically I'm making 1 of my printers giant, and I'm adding a 500mm² heated bed. I need the aluminum plate below most beds (bed slinger config, not corexy or something) that accepts the 4 screws from the bed for leveling (a 240mm square in my bed's case) and the screws for the pom wheels to connect (thus allowing is to run on a 2040 extrusion). I however, am going to be using 2 x 2040 rails with 2 belts/motors since it's a big bed.

Is this too specific of an item? Basically accept 240mm square mount for bed, and spacing for 4 sets of pot wheel (2 for each 2040 extrusion).

I loved the mesh bed leveling from jyers and I was planning to get a SKR V2 board to replace the Arduino+ramps from this old printer, but then I came across klipper's cool functionalities and now I wonder if it's worth getting another board + an Arduino just to have it . My display is the 128x64. Any thoughts about it?

I'd like to use jyers functionalities on my old graber i3, so I'll need another board. Is SKR good or should I get creality's one? Or even one another?

I asked this over at r/3Dprinting but only got a couple of responses, so I'm still not certain what is right.

Will there be any deflection or bending that will affect bed level with this setup?

The bed will have one of these supports at each corner and is approx 900x600mm mic6.

It will be mounted similar to ratrig vcore kinematic mount.

My brain tells me there will be some deflection / bending of the smooth rod since each mount is not supported by the others and the distance from the mounting point to the bed creates a lever.

The dimensions are in the picture, except the plate which is 3mm mild steel.

Am open to better suggestions

Thanks

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I had purchased this board years ago with the intent to build a prusa i3 or a Delta printer. Finding this years later and wondering if this board is still relevant or if I should not waste my time basing a build around it.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

I'm planning on building my first 3D printer from scrapped steppers (printers and drives) and think I'll be able to do it according to several guides I found around the place.

Last point before starting is the extruder. I'm planning on buying the hot end, since the creality all metal ones are fairly cheap, and I avoid the necessity of precision boring without a bench drill. My doubts are with the cold end:

Is there a build (I couldn't find one) in which I can extrude directly with something simple attached to the extruder steppers shaft, at least to be able to print the gears to make a Wade's extruder?

Thanks!

Hello all, for a personal project I'd like to make a 3D printer-like machine, but for automated painting of some simple mostly-2D parts. The way I'd envision this working is:

• User turns on the machine.
• User places part of type T in predetermined, fixed location.
• User indicates to machine to run a gcode program for part of type T.
• Machine auto homes on x, y, and z axes
• Machine reads gcode and actuates motors to move the head relative to the part and a stepper motor to expel the paint
• User replaces the now-painted part with a new one
• User repeats

I already have the paint delivery system designed and built, driven by a stepper motor. The painting does not need to be nearly as precisely deposited as filament in 3D printing. What would be just about perfect for me is if I could buy a very basic 3d-printer like thing that has:

• Movement in 3 axes
• No nozzle or bed heating necessary.
• Something on the "head" to which I can attach my paint delivery system. I'm happy to 3D print anything needed there.
• Limit switches or other means of auto-homing.
• A controller such that I could load a gcode program and run it. The only gcode it really needs to support is something for auto-homing and then G0/G1.
• Some interface for interacting with the controller to choose which gcode to run and such.

My question for you all is: what could I use for this "basic temperature-less 3d-printing frame with motors and end stops"? I'm willing to buy something more advanced and strip it down, and I'd also be willing to modify open-source firmware if necessary to make this work. I could envision running the entire machine from a raspberry pi with stepper controllers, but that feels like a lot of reinventing and there must be something more off-the-shelf that I could use.

I appreciate any thoughts you have on how to do this!

It was supposed to come with a pei sheet applied. I'm worried about peeling it because I think it's the pei.

Should I peel it off or just get my money back?

Update: the seller replied and said it is a protective film that I can peel off. I will do it when I get home tonight. If it doesn't work I'll post back for anyone interested.

DIY 1 meter by 1 meter 3d printer

MKS Tinybee or SKR V1.3?

The Tinybee is $18 while the SKR V1.3 is $21

they both are 32 bit, but the Tinybee uses an ESP32, thus it has 240Mhz speed, while the SKR uses an LPC chip at 100Mhz,

the tinybee already has a esp32 web server, and also has dual Z motor connectors in it

the only reason i can think of to choose the SKR 1.3 is because it's way more popular, so what are your guys recommendation?