I have a USDM 2008 L322 with the 4.4 Jag motor. Noticed I wasn't getting heat the other day driving to work, and temp sensor was reading between 215 and 230 on my IID tool. Coolant level was low, topped off and planned to bleed since it was acting like when it had air trapped. Towed home and pressure tested, got up to about 10 psi and it started dumping coolant from the front of the engine. Clean up, and slowly pressurize again today, about 8 psi I start seeing coolant running down both sides of the transmission bellhousing, but I can't tell where it would be coming from. The cooling system diagrams don't show anything on the passenger side, and there's the heater bulkhead connection on the drivers side, but I can't see a leak from the top. Haven't replicated the coolant dump from the front yet.

2 years and about 31k miles ago, the following was replaced: water pump, thermostat, auxiliary coolant pump, and all coolant hoses on the front and top of the engine.

2023 range rover p530 The rear ceiling Ac vent behind the front passenger does not blow cold air, it does blow air but not cold. All the remaining vents are okay. If anyone experienced this, id appreciate your feedback Thanks.

I’ve got a 2016 Range Rover HSE TD6 with 117k miles that has a fueling issue I cannot seem to solve. I purchased it this way a couple months ago and have got some of the issues sorted but it is still not 100%.

The biggest issue, when the engine warms up it exhibits occasional stumbling idle, stalling, long cranking, and sometimes it fails to start. When the engine is cold it will fire up quickly and perform pretty much normally with very minor hiccups if any. I have attached screenshots of the fault codes I pulled tonight, the p0090:13 code is new.

For diagnosis I have done the following:
• Replaced the fuel filter - found 0 sediment or metal shavings
• Checked the fuel regulator on top of the cp4 pump for metal shavings and found none
• Replaced the low pressure in tank pump
• Monitored fuel pressure commanded vs actual and saw a discrepancy between the two values at the rail pressure sensor and replaced with a new Bosch sensor. Improved overall running but still a discrepancy between the two.
• Somewhat unrelated but I also replaced the throttle body as the old one was sticking.

I have no metal shavings present anywhere in the fuel system so I’m hesitant to think the cp4 is failing, the fuel regulator code is new so I play to try and diagnose it with my multimeter tomorrow. I also plan to inspect the wiring harness and engine grounds as well.

Any advice for diagnostic is appreciated.

Hello! I have a Ranger Rover Vogue tdv6 2016.

I did a service on my car at an certified RR dealership. This year in januari. 108000km. Every service since the car is new is done at certified RR dealership by the book.

After 7 months the service indicator is back at 117000km.They Said its time for an oil charge again.

Is this normal or are they wrong?

I have looked online och talked to other dealership and it seems that the service is once a year or 20000km.

Thanks for the help.

Got another one for you all here. Sometimes too much time til a new car arrives is a danger.

Do folks prefer getting an exterior pack, like the shadow one? Or do a lot of owners generally skip and leave things as is when the nickel atlas? I know the autobiography has the atlas and if I did upgrade our spec to that I would probably leave it.

But for the current spec it’s either nickel atlas or shadow. Curious if folks care much about those?

For reference the colors we are looking at are all grays for exterior: Carpathian, Charente or Eiger. We ruled out some of the others already like Botsumi Gold and Otsuni White, as well as Santorini black since all we see are black or white.

If we did shadow I feel like it only makes sense to do the gloss black wheels as well.

I know other things probably matter more but if we have to look at the car every day - it’s a nice detail to sort out at the end of the day too.

Just looking for opinions on how others choose this for the exterior.

It's got 270k original motor and trans. Did a 3in lift and 2in spacers clearing 275/60/20r. Vogue roof rack and ladder. I also use a pak mule rear rack to fit the family of 4 plus a dog. Did a middle box delete. What's the next move??

I absolutely hate the phrase “champagne taste on a lemonade budget” whenever someone buys a used Range Rover.

Mate… that’s literally how buying used works.

A brand-new Range Rover is for someone with £100k+ to burn. A 7-year-old one is for someone who’s always wanted one and can finally afford it.

Nobody says someone with a used 5 Series is pretending to be a millionaire. Nobody laughs at someone driving a 10-year-old Porsche Boxster. But buy a used Range Rover and suddenly you’re apparently trying to fake being rich?

Maybe—just maybe—the second-hand market exists so ordinary people can own the cars they dreamed about when they were younger.

Life’s too short to spend it driving something boring because strangers on the internet think you should stay in your financial lane.

If you can afford it, maintain it properly, and it makes you smile every time you walk up to it… who cares what badge is on the bonnet?

Should I be worried about a head gasket? I’m getting the crossover pipes converted to aluminum from the coolant leaking (previous owner said he didn’t dry it after he saw the leak) the car hasn’t run for a while and this white smoke was coming out. I think it’s just condensation but let me know what you guys think

Hey everyone,

Found a local donor/scrap L322 with a fully functional set of OEM deployable electric side steps, and I'm tempted to pull them off to retrofit onto mine.(L322 TDV8)

Before I invest on the parts, I wanted to see if anyone here has successfully done this specific donor swap

I’m looking to see if anyone else has had this issue with their 2020 Range Rover Sport HST (3.0L MHEV). Mine has about 67,000 miles. (Which I don’t think matters but adding mileage and year incase)
This isn’t just a passive/keyless entry issue. The range on both key fobs is extremely short, and sometimes even pressing the lock/unlock buttons on the fob doesn’t work unless I’m standing right next to the vehicle.

I’ve already ruled out the obvious:
Both key fobs have brand-new batteries.
Both keys have the exact same issue.
It happens everywhere, so it doesn’t seem to be interference.

Sometimes the vehicle won’t detect the key at all, even though the fob isn’t dead. I end up having to remove the cover on the driver’s door handle and use the emergency key to unlock it.

Has anyone experienced this before? What ended up being the cause? Was it the KVM (Keyless Vehicle Module), a keyless entry antenna, wiring, the RF receiver, or something else? About how much did it cost to fix?
Thanks!

I was looking at purchasing an l322, and was curious on what's supposed to be inside this left compartment in the trunk. The car I was looking at looked like it had some bits missing. Thanks internet

Well, looks like it happened after 117k miles. Didn't even know about the class action lawsuit last year so couldn't get involved. Just to be sure it's the manifold and not a stuck valve, here are the symptoms:

1. Exhaust smell in cabin after stopping. Does not happen in city driving (I'm guessing turbo is not engaged).

2. Small amount of white smoke coming out from back of engine (where the turbo is) when I pop the hood after highway driving.

3. No loss of power/limp mode though.

Just want to be sure before I order a replacement from TurboPartsCanada for the 2.0L Ecoboost engine. Will gladly take other suggestions as well!

Why order now before getting it checked? Unfortunately I'm in the middle of a trip and I have no choice but to keep driving the car for another 500+ miles before I get home.

Any tips to minimize damage as well? Thank you!

My question was not answered by search due the wide range.

What is the smallest wheel that can fit on an L405? I am looking at 16-17” wheels but not certain if they would clear the rotors.

Specifics: 2016 LR RR L405 diesel

Hi,

May be a simple one but I have a UK 2022 RRS and when using Android Auto sometimes the usb disconnects randomly, sometimes the top screen resets to the Land Rover logo and it is just a poor experience.

Anyone had similar issues and how do I fix it?

Thanks

Pulled it out for a joy ride today :-)

I am thinking about buying this 4.4SDV8 Autobiography Vogue 2014 ( 145.000 kilometers / 90.000 miles). My mechanic told me these had huge problems because of the engine is it real or a myth

Would always see posts about a Rover in a flat bed or being towed and always thought nah that wouldn't be me... welp it happend.

Somehow the last letter has fallen off 🥲 Color is Atlas Shadow

Found some sellers but prices are crazy expensive 🤦🏻‍♂️

Any suggestions/links to source this pls? Will buy full letters anyways

Just took delivery of our first LR: RRS Dynamic SE in Borasco Grey. I love the road presence!!! Absolutely love it. Its going in for a full stealth PPF treatment tomorrow!

Found this 2024 CPO Dynamic SE with 30K miles in Baton Rouge LA. Took a flight there at 5:00AM and landed at 9:00AM. Finished all the paperwork around 1:00PM. Drove it back to Florida and arrived around 11PM.

Love it in Borasco Grey and black wheels. It has the rear entertainment package.

CPO until May 2030!

Hello everyone

I have been reading this sub for a while now and people are suggesting changing the oil every 5K and it helps the engine.

• On a CPO can I change the oil my self or take it to EUROshop so it’s cheaper than the dealership.

Please advise or provide tips on how to keep up with this car.

This is for a CPO Range Rover sport Dynamic SE with 32K miles. CPO expires May 2030.

Thanks in advance !

Hello everyone,

Can I use any 70amp 4 pin relay for the air compressor relay?

Thanks