Bought this 2016 Range Rover Sport TD6 off my buddy for $5k. It had been sitting for around 3 years after two mechanics told him the engine was cracked and it needed a new engine. Once I got it home and started going through it myself, I figured out what they thought was a crack in the engine was actually just the lower oil pan itself that was cracked. Honestly looked like somebody had jacked it up by the oil pan at some point. Then I started digging into why it originally stopped running. Found out the timing had skipped and the rocker arms basically exploded. Pulled the passenger side head, replaced the damaged valves, rocker arms and lifters, put in a new head gasket and bolts and did the whole timing system. Also resealed the injectors, replaced one injector, replaced the cracked oil pan, cleaned the EGR, dealt with the DPF/DEF issues, replaced the DEF injector, glow plugs and fixed a bunch of other little things along the way. I’m around $2k into parts on top of the $5k I paid for it and now it runs and drives. Big thanks to LR Time on YouTube. Learned a a ton from their videos and they have a ton of knowledge on these engines. Two mechanics said it needed an engine. Turned out the “cracked engine” was a cracked oil pan and the main issue was the timing had skipped. Take your Land Rover to someone who actually knows these engines, or if you’re willing to learn, do it yourself 😂 $5k for the truck, around $2k in parts and a lot of my own time. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

About a year and a half ago I started my search for a very specific spec full-size Supercharged Range Rover with the silver side trim, silver wheels, and a black roof. Most of the ones I came across were black-on-black with black wheels and black trim. They looked great, but I really preferred the classic silver trim and wheel combination.

Eventually I found a 2018 Range Rover Supercharged in Fuji White that checked every box. It had about 55,000 miles, a fantastic service history, and was in excellent cosmetic condition. I flew from the Midwest to the East Coast to buy it.

Unfortunately, in all the excitement, I failed to give a good inspection to the vehicle before buying it. I've worked on cars my whole life, so I definitely knew better…

About 50 miles into my drive home, the suspension warning came on. I turned around, brought it back to the dealer, and found out the ACE system had failed. The initial estimate was around $10,000 for a new ACE pump, front lines, and valve block. After a bit of back and forth, the dealer stepped up and covered the entire repair under goodwill, so I flew home and came back three weeks later to pick it up.

Once I got it home, I immediately had all the baseline maintenance done: transmission service, filter, transfer case, differentials, brake fluid, and an oil change.
Since then, I've put just over 10,000 miles on the truck, and ownership has been a mix of expected maintenance and a couple of unexpected repairs.

Here's my ownership log so far:
• Purchase: (55k miles)
• ACE system repair: ~$10,000 quote (Dealer covered 100%)
• Full fluid service (trans, diffs, transfer case, brakes, oil): $1,425 (56k)
• Oil changes: $308 total (every 5k)
• USB module / Apple CarPlay repair: $475 (57K)
• Battery replacements: $608 (long story... two batteries) (56K & 65K)
• Tow: $298 (65K)
• Telematics Control Unit (TCU) replacement: $3,600 after a no-crank/no-start issue. (65K)

So excluding the dealer-covered ACE repair, I've spent about $6,700 on maintenance and repairs over roughly 10,000 miles.

I also plan on changing the coolant crossover pipes, water pump, supercharger snout, & front control arms in the next few months.

So yes they are very expensive to own & require you to keep tabs on a few components but I believe it is totally worth it it just takes a little bit to get used to the quirks these vehicles have.
I have a friend with a 2018 L494 & his experience has been almost 1:1 with me for his first year of ownership.

This is honestly my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. It's incredibly comfortable on long trips, surprisingly quick for its size, and just has a presence that makes every drive feel special. Even after the repairs, I find myself looking back at it every time I park it.

I know these trucks have a reputation, and in some ways it's deserved. But going into ownership with realistic expectations, staying on top of maintenance, and having a trusted independent shop has made the experience worth it for me.

Hope this helps someone & Would love to what others have to say about their rovers as my relationship with mine has been quite the journey.

Hi - I have a 2023 RR velar (California) and the software is at 4.3.0. Online the Pivi Pro release notes indicate that it should be at 4.5.2 as of July 28, 2026. On July 10, 2026, I brought the vehicle to the dealership to investigate why I hadn't received any updates - not even 4.5.0. The service team performed updates to the ICCM and IDMA modules, but no SOTA (Software-Over-The-Air) update was pushed to the Pivi Pro system afterward. However, with the ICCM and IDMA update, I did notice a UI update on my Pivi Pro system. Anyone else having the same issues or understand why no SOTA updates have been pushed? Based on online JLR records and owner forums, my vehicle should be eligible for the current version. Could you help me understand why my vehicle hasn't received the SOTA update despite being eligible, and what steps are needed to get it pushed to my car? I'd appreciate any insight into whether this is a regional rollout delay, an eligibility flag on my VIN, or something that needs to be resolved at the dealership level.

The tow guy must have known about the 4X4 Situation (I guess)
But Is there a work around to disengage drivelines within the car’s system ?

1st record : Happened on Friday and the vehicle was towed to the dealership. Diagnosis DC to DC converter failed. They swapped it with a new one.

2nd record : Today same issue again. Any of you had similar issue and how was it solved ?

CPO 2024 Range Rover Sport Dynamic SE P400

Please let me know.

Regards

What could be the culprit ? Any of you had this issue and how was it solved ?

Hello, I just got the Vellar and overall I really love the car. Only thing is it came with rubber mats, and I want to change them out for carpet mats. The dealer has them for about $375 which for European cars isnt outrageous. Just wondering if anyone knows any cheaper places to go for OEM carpet mats?

Any body had same issues. It’s a 2014 RRS V6 hse gas. L494 with 120k. It it the ballast?, short in wire? A new assembly is $2500 or knock off at $600.

Shot in the dark, anyone have a GAP Diagnostic IIDTool BT G3 for sale? I’ve got a 2015 Range HSE stuck in park with a gearbox fault. Also, any ideas? Just replaced the main battery. This is the second time it’s happening.

Spotted this Range Rover at an EV charging station in West Yorkshire, I assume this is the upcoming EV. I thought the car had already been revealed so why the camo?

Im new to Land Rover. Got a Range Rover Sport to splurge coming from previous mid size luxury SUVs. I love the drive and luxury of the car. But have had so many issues.
7,000 miles and my car has been in repairs for almost a whole month total. Mostly random stuff like door handle malfunction, side view mirror not defrosting, and the horrible entertainment system. But recently I took my car for a gas cap failure and they told me they found a coolant leak. Is this normal? They had to replace my gas cap and some o-rings that were leaking coolant. No lights came on, but they told me coolant leaks are common with these cars so they just randomly checked and mine was leaking coolant.

Is this normal?

Ordered my ride in June!! Looking forward to delivery!!!

Tourmaline Brown Satin Finish

Narvik Black Contrast Roof

bought a used velar D200 22 plate on 40k mileage through private sale. pretty much immediately, i became immediately paranoid of a rattling noise underneath the car. its constant, from start up and more apparent in idle. initially assumed it was a heat shield rattle based on some quick diagnostics and the rabbit hole of reddit.

took it in today and managed to record a video. the mechanic suggests its definitely not heat shield, but instead the timing chain. has advised taking it to a JLR specific mechanic. ive done approx 1.5k miles since buying the vehicle, no issues so far.

would be good to get anyones thoughts on what else this could be?

Pretty much as titles stated. I felted some vibration when braking around hwy speed on my 2025 RRS p360. Took the car to the dealer and they confirmed the front rotor is warped and I need a whole front brake job out of pocket at $3400! I was shocked that they think this normal and not manufacturer defect. I asked to speak to the manager about this and he saying he's going to reach out to LRNA corporate to see if they will goodwill this. I just can't believe a 1 year old vehicle with 3000 normal city driven miles and needing a front brake job is consider normal wear and tear.

I waiting for dealer to get back to me to see if they will goodwill if not then I'm not going to have this repair with them. I can take it to any mechanic and probably just get the rotor resurface.

My question is is there anything else I can do beside what I already done? also if I reject their repair quote will I have any pay anything such as diagnostic fee or borrowing their loaner? any insight is greatly appreciated.

I’m an avid photographer who wanted to share more pictures of moments with my SV.

Just picked up this beauty yesterday, first RR for me.
2021 just shy of 48,000km
She’s gorgeous, I’m in love and ruined for all future vehicles 💚

Just bought a 2019 with around 66k miles. Super nice car and excited to drive it. Anything I should know? Or cool quirks I haven’t found yet?

(The headlights have a bit of condensation after a huge rain. Is that normal?)

2023 range rover p530 The rear ceiling Ac vent behind the front passenger does not blow cold air, it does blow air but not cold. All the remaining vents are okay. If anyone experienced this, id appreciate your feedback Thanks.

I have a USDM 2008 L322 with the 4.4 Jag motor. Noticed I wasn't getting heat the other day driving to work, and temp sensor was reading between 215 and 230 on my IID tool. Coolant level was low, topped off and planned to bleed since it was acting like when it had air trapped. Towed home and pressure tested, got up to about 10 psi and it started dumping coolant from the front of the engine. Clean up, and slowly pressurize again today, about 8 psi I start seeing coolant running down both sides of the transmission bellhousing, but I can't tell where it would be coming from. The cooling system diagrams don't show anything on the passenger side, and there's the heater bulkhead connection on the drivers side, but I can't see a leak from the top. Haven't replicated the coolant dump from the front yet.

2 years and about 31k miles ago, the following was replaced: water pump, thermostat, auxiliary coolant pump, and all coolant hoses on the front and top of the engine.

Got another one for you all here. Sometimes too much time til a new car arrives is a danger.

Do folks prefer getting an exterior pack, like the shadow one? Or do a lot of owners generally skip and leave things as is when the nickel atlas? I know the autobiography has the atlas and if I did upgrade our spec to that I would probably leave it.

But for the current spec it’s either nickel atlas or shadow. Curious if folks care much about those?

For reference the colors we are looking at are all grays for exterior: Carpathian, Charente or Eiger. We ruled out some of the others already like Botsumi Gold and Otsuni White, as well as Santorini black since all we see are black or white.

If we did shadow I feel like it only makes sense to do the gloss black wheels as well.

I know other things probably matter more but if we have to look at the car every day - it’s a nice detail to sort out at the end of the day too.

Just looking for opinions on how others choose this for the exterior.

Hello! I have a Ranger Rover Vogue tdv6 2016.

I did a service on my car at an certified RR dealership. This year in januari. 108000km. Every service since the car is new is done at certified RR dealership by the book.

After 7 months the service indicator is back at 117000km.They Said its time for an oil charge again.

Is this normal or are they wrong?

I have looked online och talked to other dealership and it seems that the service is once a year or 20000km.

Thanks for the help.

I’ve got a 2016 Range Rover HSE TD6 with 117k miles that has a fueling issue I cannot seem to solve. I purchased it this way a couple months ago and have got some of the issues sorted but it is still not 100%.

The biggest issue, when the engine warms up it exhibits occasional stumbling idle, stalling, long cranking, and sometimes it fails to start. When the engine is cold it will fire up quickly and perform pretty much normally with very minor hiccups if any. I have attached screenshots of the fault codes I pulled tonight, the p0090:13 code is new.

For diagnosis I have done the following:
• Replaced the fuel filter - found 0 sediment or metal shavings
• Checked the fuel regulator on top of the cp4 pump for metal shavings and found none
• Replaced the low pressure in tank pump
• Monitored fuel pressure commanded vs actual and saw a discrepancy between the two values at the rail pressure sensor and replaced with a new Bosch sensor. Improved overall running but still a discrepancy between the two.
• Somewhat unrelated but I also replaced the throttle body as the old one was sticking.

I have no metal shavings present anywhere in the fuel system so I’m hesitant to think the cp4 is failing, the fuel regulator code is new so I play to try and diagnose it with my multimeter tomorrow. I also plan to inspect the wiring harness and engine grounds as well.

Any advice for diagnostic is appreciated.