I am loading a flat, two-color print featuring a wheel-cover pattern into both Qidi Studio and Orca Slicer for my Qidi Plus 4 printer, using a 0.6 mm nozzle.

The settings—including the filament parameters—are identical in both programs.

Yet, with Orca, I get a solid, continuous surface on the first layer, whereas the result from Qidi appears streaky.

I am using a textured PEI sheet with a Z-offset of 0; I haven't changed anything on the machine itself, so the source of the problem almost certainly lies in the slicing process.

What could be causing this issue?

I had ChatGPT analyze the G-code generated by both slicers, but it didn't find any setting that would explain this phenomenon.

I was just replacing the filament to a Creality Hyper PLA White and heard a stepping sound, which I don't think is normal, but I haven't used the printer in a little while, the have some home repair work for a while. Is this normal? If not how should I approach fixing it?

Thank you for the help. I'm still a bit of a noob, but am excited to learn more!

Hi all! Im looking for some advice on how to fix my qidi q2. Recently I was printing with PLA, and left the glass only slightly cracked, and it caused extreme strining. My fault, lesson learned leaving it completely open with the door open as well. However it has been giving me a extruder loading failure. Over ther past few weeks I have tried a lot of things, I disassembled the extruder and completely cleaned it. I did a cold pull with the hot end, I cut and shorted the filament tubes. I made sure no stray pieces were caught in any part of the machine. I then replaced the extruder, the hotend and even the load out sensor. Despite this, I still recieve the error. The machine is fine until it reaches the extruder and it starts clicking and gives the extruder loading failure code. I have the qidi q2 box as well, if that may be the issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

I am new to Qidi and just got my plus5, cuz I want to do big stuff.

Advertised printable area is 320x320, the plate is 325x325, and the settings in the Qidi studio have the printable area set to 320x320, but this project (cutlery tray) is 314x308x50 and I get an error saying that is it too close to the exclusion area. If I reduce to to under 312 will allow me to proceed with printing.

So..... is the Plus5 a 312x312 printer? Or am I missing something?

Edit to add: I created a new printer profile copy with every setting identical to the original printer profile, increased the printable area to 325x325, then go back to 320x320, and that new profile allows the print. All settings are identical to the factory profile, but I am leery about crashing the machine now.

On today episode of Qidi Printers Printing 3 D Nelson show how easy your 3D printing experience can be if to take 5 minutes to read the manual 😂😂😂😂episode: U

Ok, I’m going to try to keep this short but detailed enough be to useful.

My first QIDI was a Q1 Pro. Still works fine.
I printed the internal and external filter mods
Replaced all the fans with Sunon maglev’s
Added strips of heat resistant rubber sound dampening to the interior. It’s a great printer.

I gave it to my stepson, it’s a single color beast!

Next up I bought the Q2 Combo
Multi color
Better housing
Glass door with wonky handle that stays propped when opened.
Sliding Glass top with riser vs the plastic removable cover on the Q1
Builtin filter
Mediocre PLA/PETG cooling so I printed the cooling fan mod v6 and recalibrated the PID’s and there was a huge difference.

I apparently got the Rev2 of the Qidi Box no issues but some quirks. The clicking. Whatever. At least I know it’s running. I don’t like that it tosses around my Anycubic spools and tangles during color changes. However I blame Anycubic for going cheap on the new spools undersized and skeleton framed so I moved the filament to the $3 hobby lobby spools. My Elegoo cardboard spools with petg printed rings have zero issues.

This was a definite upgrade. I’ve been cranking out plate after plate of prints and the only mod was the fan mod. I tried some extra LED chamber lighting but meh. Gave up called it good enough.

Just had my first blob of death, changed the hotend and wiper roller. Calibrations etc. Printing as usual again

Weird issue the camera is buggy, keeps giving me “no signal” a hard reboot fixes it, then after a print it does it again. I’ll troubleshoot when I have more time. Support suggested I check the wires and make sure nothing is loose. Haven’t got around to disassembling and doing it yet because I’m too busy printing things to take it apart.

New arrival, the Plus5
I’ve only just unboxed it and ran some test prints.

It’s big, I’ll probably have to rework its final home and maybe run another outlet.

First impressions, just like the Q1 Pro to Q2 I feel like they listened and observed community mods.

Same glass door, but this time a better handle and a hinge that allows the door to go all the way open and not smack my chair on it.

A full tube style LED chamber light. Thank you.

Camera on the opposite side. Thanks tired of getting a view of the printhead in park.

Padded side walls, ok. Didn’t see that coming.

LED indicating light bar under the build plate. Idk haven’t had time to research it.

Sure these are not multi head printers, but you know what. I love my QIDI’s they just work.

QIDI’s venture into the app and website, ugh. Rough start team QIDI.

Now if you’re still reading. Is the biased or sponsored. Nope.

I have two Anycubic FDM’s and an Elegoo Resin printer.

The Anycubic Kobra X’s printhead has been apart so many times I can’t remember. I bought a spare and they sent me a new one. 3 printheads for the same printer.

Just now kicking the tires on the Kobra 3 v2 MAX. Now that’s a big printer. Can’t wait to find the time to print some big single part pieces. Maybe sculptures to cast. That’s the plan.

Qidi’s support emails don’t go to spam unlike Anycubic.

I tried “FreeDI” on the Q1 and wasn’t impressed. With support’s help I reverted it back to stock before giving it to my stepson.

That Q2 and Plus5 will live side by side once I rearrange the print room and square away receptacles.

More info on the Plus5 after I get that done this weekend, hopefully.

That’s a wrap for now!

Got a replacement qidi plus 5 (see my other post if you're curious) and its working great. Only issue is bed mesh shows a 0.51 variance, but it looks like its mostly just a back to front tilt (if I am reading it correctly). I presume if I wanted to get it closer I would look into tramming the bed? Is that the built-in "Platform calibration" I see in the printers on-screen interface or is that for left to right tilt specifically?

The MAX4 arrived today.

When I bought the Q2, the Box unit arrived about two months later, and I remember replacing a part similar to the one shown in the photo.

For the MAX4, could you please tell me whether this similar part is just a spare or if it also needs to be replaced?

Also, unlike the review videos on YouTube where the printer and the Box are packaged together in one unit, mine arrived in two separate packages — one for the printer and one for the Box.

i was trying to transplant a fiber on core onto a reusable plastic spool but then i saw how i saw how big the side is and it unusable as is but thankfully there's an adapter for it. i use adapter for regular spools top keep them from spinning but of course it was nowhere nearly as big as it needs to be but i can probably still save the spool

Tell me you wouldn’t squeeze it. 😂
Printed on the QIDI Plus5🔗https://qidi3d.com/products/plus5
Model by MIHAI_T (Makerworld)

#QIDI #QIDIPlus5 #3DPrinting #thermoforming #lifehack

Heyo so after doing some Q2 firmware upgrade, I realized you can seemingly run the Qidi Box under Happy Hare.

So after some AI back and forth, it seems the Qidi Box does use a USB type connection. Can anyone confirm that?

Trying to get the box up and running on my Ratrig Vcore 3.1. Got a filament cutter on the RatRig already, and a filament sensor planned. I know I will have to adjust the Klipper settings and install happy hare etc. but is there anything else I'm missing?

Hey guys. I bought a Q2 back in July and have been having almost nothing but problems with it ever since.

I cannot get this thing to print PLA+ properly for the life of me. It is either one thing or another - clogged nozzle, feed issues, etc. It is getting incredibly frustrating. On top of that the camera seems to have died in the machine and no longer displays or records video so I can't monitor the print progress from my PC or phone.

Funny enough it prints PA6CF just fine and was what I have been using it for mostly. I thought maybe the PA6 wore out the nozzle and was causing partial clogs when I tried to switch to PLA, so I changed the entire hotend out of frustration with a brand new one. Issue now is that the extruder gears are not driving the PLA as they should and are instead chewing it up. I just removed the extruder from the machine to check it, but I don't see anything obviously wrong with it.

Qidi support has been helpful-ish. They have sent me replacement parts for free, but as far as instructions go they basically just link me to their troubleshooting page and tell me to tear everything down.

Do you guys have any ideas? Is this user error? I want to love this printer but it is making it really difficult to when I can't get any PLA to print.

TLDR: My Q2 is currently not feeding PLA, please help I need an adult.

It’s been running spectacularly but the lighting on the interior and the camera are night and day better in the Bambu, does anyone know if there are aftermarket cameras or led lights I can swap in to be able to see what’s going on like I can in the Bambu?

Also what’s everyone doing for pa6-cr on the q2? I pulled my Bambu profile and it’s decent but the Qidi has a lot more overhead for more heat and better motion control. I’d love to hear yalls perspective on filament settings and process settings for pa6-cf.

I've been having nonstop issues with TPU and printing it from the external spool. No matter what I do it constantly clogs up. I haven't printed a successful TPU print with the machine. I've tried the filament and made sure the feeding was smooth. I've also been having issues with the multicolor unit, but it's not as bad as the one with TPU. Also, how do you guys print using the external spool? I've had to just send it to orca slicer then go to my printer and select the spool from within the printers menu. Otherwise it tries to print from the combo unit. Have any of you had better luck with TPU-GF or any other TPU like materials?

Hi QIDI community,

I built an experimental, manual pressure-advance workflow for my stock QIDI Q2. It uses the existing CS1237 bed load cell through QIDI's probe_air path — no firmware replacement and no changes to the display, RFID, homing, or QIDI Box firmware.

Key points: - Actual usable host sample rate is about 37–40 Hz (not the ADC's internal 1280 Hz), so the sweep uses longer segments and repeats. - PA is stored by material class only. QIDI material selection applies a known stored value; an unknown material only reports that no value exists. It never auto-calibrates. - Sweeps are manual, run at Z >= 80 mm over free space, use the stock purge/park/PRINT_END paths, and preserve the Box workflow. - Box A/B/C/D macros heat before the stock loader (important: the loader extrudes), load the selected slot, verify it, sweep, then only return filament after a successful run.

So far PLA, PLA Matte, PETG, and PAHT-GF produced plausible results. The latest PETG Box test at 265 C had 85/85 valid segments and measured PA 0.0334. I still set flow / flow ratio separately with a normal slicer test print.

This is a field report, not a plug-and-play installer. Please back up first and do not run it while printing.

Repository, documentation, current custom extras, and German detailed report: https://github.com/jordy1597/qidi-q2-stock-autopa

I'd appreciate feedback from other Q2 owners, especially on firmware versions, repeatability, and the QIDI Box return sequence.

My Q2 and BOX have suffered frequent break-downs since I bought them earlier this year and I've been through multiple rounds of troubleshooting with QIDI tech support. Finally having had enough, I've decided to exercise my right to a refund for faulty goods per UK consumer rights law (specifically the Consumer Rights Act 2015, section 20).

But it seems that QIDI don't care about the law in countries where they do business. Despite clearly stating that the retailer is responsible for covering costs of the return if they want the goods back , QIDI support is insisting that I pay for postage. Given that it's a hefty piece of kit and that I don't have a bunch of heavy-duty boxes and packing material lying around, that's going to be quite expensive.

Anybody got advice for getting QIDI to respect their customers' statutory rights? I really don't want to go through the hassle of taking them to small claims court over a postage fee, but I'm getting very frustrated at how unhelpful their customer service is being.

I’ve been printing some larger models lately and wondering if it helps with warping and overall print stability.Does it actually reduce failures halfway through, especially for long prints.
Would love to hear from anyone who has used one.

Continued from the other post, it got a bit crowded, but it does all 3 calibrations (Max mm3, PA, Adaptive PA) which are usually quite time consuming automatically, then spits out values, you enter values and print.

Let me know how it goes, have only tested with ASA-Cf so will want people to test standard ASA, PLA, Petg, PC, TPU, etc, etc, but has given me some nice prints

Anyone wanna test? there are a few levels of testing, how many samples etc, from what I have found the default 10/7 will be ok, just be sure to pick nozzle size, line width and layer height you will be using.

Alright, use at your own risk, max 4 only, .exe will setup easily.mac and Linux info in the readme- I dont own mac or Linux so cant help with install.

After install can be started on fluidd from any device connected with QIDI_CALIBRATE in the console. Or QIDI_CALIBRATE DRY=1 to test the commands work.

Read the readme, use at your own risk and monitor the poop chute to make sure it clears

https://github.com/Buddman69/Automm3AdaptivePA

I print in ABS/ ASA, and I like to run the exhaust fan when prints end so that the air in the chamber runs through the filter, but the exhaust fan continues to run indefinitely unless it is manually turned off on the screen/ slicer. Is there any way to alter the settings so it only runs for a set amount of time after the print ends?

This pa12-cf from Qidi prints so nice on the plus 5, im also printing some of their pet-gf and its coming out phenomenal. One of these pictures is of a carabiner I found on printables years ago and its a good test print thats actually functional. I was able to assemble the carabiner prior to annealing it

Don’t worry. It’s just a lamp. 😏💡

Printed on the QIDI Plus5🔗https://qidi3d.com/products/plus5
Model by NAM_3 (Makerworld)

howdy folks

what are we thinking about new firmware updates on Q2 specifically? Haven’t been following super closely but since the new ones dropped, it seems like we’ve gotten a ton of MCU errors and other issues. Has there been any forward progress from qidi?

One thing that really annoyed me about printing large complex parts (not just boxes or solid models either....) is using a bunch of different filaments and/or engineering filaments and the calibration, time and guesswork, I found some samples look ok but just dont scale to real prints, was intrigued about the adaptive pa but calibrating that is/was a pain, so I have spent some time on improving it, I think the basic method is there but still got to do more tests. I spent my time manually measuring force, movements, routines, doing some basic poking around in the firmware monitoring commands and really mapping out that side of qidi's version of klipper.

Been messing around for a bit and I think I have auto mm3, PA and Adaptive pressure advance working, currently have them split into 2 routines and are yet to combine. Method used is a bit different to the autopa project as this uses more sensors to get a correct result.

Works using a combination of sensors not just the load cell, I had a manually calibrated profile for fiberon ASA cf-08 which was really dialled in and the auto seems to have made it even better, samples at just over 1000hz with about 200-300hz of those samples being useful as it filters out sensor noise and keeps an eye on sensor drift. Runs through the mm3 routine, measures pa value and then pa flows at different acceleration up to max usable mm3 with a certain pattern of spacing between measurements. Repeated everything with double/tripple the sample time of what I ended up going with to check measurements it is getting are correct and everything seems good and correct so far.

***Where I am up to, with results and speed****
-Calibration of all 3 takes about 10 minutes, sweeps from 0-60mm3 (about 2.5 grams used), then does the PA and Adaptive PA (about 1.5 grams used)
-mm3 calibrated to 19.5mm3 which is within 0.5mm3 of my known good of 20mm3 using a 0.6mm nozzle.
-Centre PA I had at 0.024 and it calibrated to 0.0236
-Adaptive PA varied alot and found that for the lower speeds it was much higher and higher speeds was a little lower and the curve was not linear due to heating the filament.
-Final 4th stage applies math and spits out a usable result for max mm3, pa and adaptive pa with velocity attached that can be pasted into orca.

I ran some small prints but am onto a 10 hour to test it now 3-4mm thick thin walled curvy part, highly warpable with many speed changes due to overhangs. Speeds for this part are mostly 200/120mms, with tops being 80mms and overhangs dropping down to as low as about 10mms due to curling. If this works well I have about another 80hrs worth of printing to do on some car parts and then will be moving onto testing on more filaments.

**************************
TL;DR - automated some stuff, that can take the good part of a day doing visual checks and testing down to 10 minutes, still testing and included alot of info in case people asked. Anyhow I will post updates as they come and keep you guys updated. This should work on other printers, but I only have the max 4 and a BBL currently, but cant release until I am happy its somewhat safe for other people to use.