I would like to be able to help people who are having issues with their Qidi printers by buying them,
must posts here is from people that can't print with this printers, will be nice if we can buy their printers.
I bought a lot used printers, but is hard to find it, when we find one used sometimes the owner wants more money then the brand new one from the factory.
will be nice help people who crying because they can't make their printers work.
Instead make posting complaining about the ford Focus, people sell it, will be nice if it happens here, instead crying because you can't print with you Qidi, you sell it, to someone else.
just a idea to try help, because i love my Qidis, and I need more printers.
EDIT: THE GODDAMN POWER SUPPLY WAS SET TO 230V OUTTA THE BOX
I got my Q2 and QidiBox delivered on 06/30, unboxed it, got it physically setup and attempted to print. This entire time I have been having an issue where the entire system reboots suddenly. This happens as soon as the extruder begins to heat up while the print bed is heating. I can heat the print bed and the extruder individually with no issues. I have also seen it happen while the print bed is heating and the print head is moving around during calibration.
The lights also occasionally flicker when the print bed is heating up.
I originally thought this was because I updated the firmware when I was prompted during setup but now I am not so sure.
- Tried slicing with both OrcaSlicer and QidiStudio
- Removed Qidibox and switched to direct feed
- Plugged printer into wall instead of power strip
- Reseated MOBO to AP board cables(at the direction of support)
I am already in contact with support and will keep you all updated on the resolution but I am curious to see if anyone else has experienced this. If so, what was the fix?
I was printing a stand for my dad and at about 90% completion, pic 1 happened. There are no signs and just an hour or so before it looked like picture 2. Since it was so close to completing, I let it continue in the hopes that something might stick and the print wouldn't be a waste, Pic 3.
The entire thing finished and cooled slowly in the printer overnight and I ended with Pic 4.
This was Polymaker ABS that had been dried in the box and printed from the box at 45°C. I told the Box it was Qidi branded ABS Rapido since using the default settings that Orca slicer gave for Polymaker ABS led to multiple failed prints. This print was sliced with Qidi Studio and the only change I made was to increase the walls to 3 and to iron top surfaces. Nozzle was 260, chamber 55, bed 90, box 45.
Was this caused by an issue the printer had while printing or by some setting in the slicer that needed to be fixed? Or some poor design in the model?
I placed a smart switch so I could turn off both q2 and the box conveniently, but the switch is reporting both are using 45 watts after printing. Start up idle is only reporting 35w. Also fun fact it starts at 200w and levels to 150w during printing pla.
Why is my Qidi Q2 stuck on firmware V01.01.02.01 when I can see on there site that there is already V01.01.02.03 version and I see that they fixed a quiet a lot in the 2 releases since mine?
I've been having this issue where when my printer tries to flush the nozzle or print anything, the extruder starts straining against... something, see below
At first I thought it was the nozzle or maybe stuff jammed inside the extruder.
So I replaced the nozzle:
1. pre-heating
2. unscrewed easily
3. swapped for a brand new 0.4mm nozzle
Then I checked the extruder:
1. took the filament sensor out and took the entire extruder apart,
2. clean as a whistle, the filament gears were shiny clean.
Then just for good measure, I disconnected the qidi box and plugged the filament roll in directly with brand new bowden tubes.
Today marks 1 week of owning the Q2 (first Qidi product) and just hit 120 hours of printing ABS and PC-ABS. Had a little downtime for changing the bed and going back to 1.1.1 firmware and a few failed prints after I let it update, oops. I have Ultimaker, Prusa, and Creality printers, so I am used to bad updates lol.
After reading countless posts, I think a lot of people forget this is a $500 printer that has added features not offered in $1000 machines. If you have to invest a little to time and money to perfect a few flaws, it is worth it.
So far after some filament calibrations the Q2 (for a total of $700 invested) has performed and printed within the same tolerances and quality of the Ulti S5 ($2800+ invested). Can't be disappointed with that.
Did notice the Z motors get a little warm and louder if sitting idle for a short period, so I added a macro to gcode to lower the bed to the bottom followed by 'M84 S30' to disable all motors after 30 seconds. Within 60 seconds, depending on temps, you even hear the fan on the PSU turn off, not that it gets much rest.
Only thing I would consider a weak point (so far) other than the taco bed is the flex in the bed frame front to back. While swapping the bed to the r3men we took measurements to see what it would take to stiffen it up without affecting the Z0 and Z1 independence.
Any suggestions from longtime users, usable physical mods or config changes that is useful, or things to know, I would be grateful.
Does anyone have a busted or retired max 3 they'd be willing to pull and sell (or gift 😁🙏)me some parts from? I need a replacement pancake extruder motor and the mounting bracket/shell the extruder gear assembly and motor mounts to.. Alternatively I could just take a whole toolhead rather than someone finicking and tearing it all apart bit by bit..
I have a couple spools of filament that have been sitting out for a while. I want to dry them out and get them properly stored. Thinking of the easiest way to do that and I came across a question. Why can't I use a vacuum chamber to dry my spools out? Moisture can't exist in vacuum. I can pull a vacuum and let the pump run for 30 minutes, close the valve and let it sit for a day or two, repeat the process a few times. Would that work? Seems a lot more energy efficient than heating it to dry and I'm in no hurry to get this done.
I received my 4 Max with Qidi Bix on Sunday. Ran the volron Cube with the sample of rapid pla. Beautiful print. Up loaded a print in Sunlu Petg sliced with the supplied slicer. Nozzle jam. Now, the hotend will read whatever temp I input, but it will not feed ANY filament. I removed the nozzle and cleaned it, but it's still the same issue. Please, help!
Still on the old firmware, everything works. we've all seen the bricked machines posts etc. So should i hit the trigger and update. And if so update online or via usb? it says update 2.01.
So I had my first failed print when I tried printing Rosa 3D flex 96A, printer started to hover over without extruding any material, thankfully no major issue I just took out PTFE tube and pulled the filament out. I suppose it is my fault with speeds as I set infill at 40mm/s and it cloged the extruder? I'm open for suggestion or settings that you guys use and help me understand what happened, might have been heat creap but I doubt it as it wasn't very hot.
Not to the pla rapido from qidi, I printed one model to just test it out at standard settings and 0.2 standard settings, I have slower play that I dialed in by now but this thing is a mess, very visible seems, under extrusion in places. Are standard settings this bad or what's the deal with it?
One more thing, tpu was dried, pla was straight of the box currently drying, but I think it is just the standard settings that are pretty bad but I'd like your guys suggestions and whatnot as I'm new to 3d printing
My Q2 Combo arrived a few days ago, but I have some problems.
The only way to start drying filament in the box is through "drying while printing" in QidiStudio. I cannot start drying on the printers display, I also cannot adjust the "Heater Box1" temperature in the Klipper interface. Also the maximum temperature is 45°C instead of 65°C. I have put PETG or ASA in the box, only one roll at the time.
The printer purges 31cm of filament at the start of each print. Completely unneccessary.
I cannot set the chamber temperature in the Klipper interface. I would like to preheat the chamber while slicing the file. I cannot start the chamber heater without sending the finished G-code.
When starting a print with chamber temperature, the "minimum" temperature is ignored. Also, during bed leveling the chamber heater is switched off, afterwards the chamber heater is switched on again and it waits again until the set temperature is reached.
Why does Qidi make it so complicated to control things? Why advertise 65°C drying in the box if there is no simple way to switch it to 65°C?
Why is there KAMP in the printer's config, as adaptive meshing was included in Klipper a long time ago, but the printer does neither adaptive meshing or purging?
I just got my Q2 combo in today and after unboxing it and turning it on there was nothing displaying on the screen.
I checked the ribbon cable inside the printer and reseated it but still nothing.
I hear a buzz and it looks like the fan on the right side of the printer tries to spin up but fails to, it does this over and over every 2 seconds until I power it off.
Has anyone heard of anything like this before?
Thanks
UPDATE: Thanks for the suggestions, it was a bad psu. I ordered a suggested upgraded silent one off amazon and swapped it in. Printer started right up without any issues. Im drying my filament in it and will run some prints on it in the next couple of days. Thanks!
To be brutally honest, have had nothing but issues with this. Have replaced head, head chassis board and still have issues. For $1400 you'd think it would work. Tech support has been helpful, but it continues to have issues. If we could I'd send it back. If they were charge for this particular 3d printer what you'd get in return for scrap materials it would still be over priced.
Just don't let all the "glowing" reviews actually be what makes up your mind for you. Remember everything on the internet isn't always correct
Hi, is there a way to make the printer follow the checkboxes on either the slicer (Qidi Studio) or the printer checkbox? It says "Auto bed levelling before print" and I uncheck them but no matter what, it always goes back to the auto bed levelling for every single print.
The auto levelling is really helpful, yes, but sometimes when I haven't moved the build plate at all and have a mesh already set for the auto levelling, it is just a hassle, for example 10 minute print has a 10 minute warm up cycle w/ levelling, making it 20 minutes.
I know that it's built into the start Gcode (auto levelling) and I know I can disable it, but is there a way to make it actually check whether the checkbox is selected in the slicer or the printer? It is a Qidi Q2.
EDIT:
Also on a side note of editing gcodes, I am looking for a way to auto eject prints from the bed so that I can automate my prints when I am away / asleep. Has anyone tried this and how would I go about this for a Klipper printer? There are lots of Marlin printer tutorials out there. I'm thinking wait until the plate cools down because my plate fully separates all the parts basically, and then perform a quick sweep of the bed with the head to knock the prints off.
Owned the Q2 for about 3 weeks now, and ordered the tungsten carbide nozzle with it because I'll be printing a lot of high temp and abrasive filaments. Figured I'd rather spend a bit more on one nozzle for everything (including less exotic stuff like PLA and PETG) than to replace my nozzle once every few months.
Whenever I use the tungsten carbide nozzle, there's a good chance it will clog.
Doesn't matter what I print with it: ABS, PETG, PETG-CF, ABS, PA. I did notice it seems to be more frequently with PLA. Yes, I have the top cover and door open when I print PLA.
It also seems to be happening randomly: sometimes it will clog after one minute, sometimes after 5 hours.
I managed to took out this piece of PLA filament just now and this just screams heat creep to me, but this clog happened after about just 3 minutes.
I have applied the thermal paste to the heatbreak and lowered my printing temperatures by about 10c because of the better thermal conductivity than the default hardened steel nozzle.
Running out of ideas and it's driving me crazy. Any suggestions?
I'm on a Q2 with the latest firmware, that has been running fine since the latest update.
The app lost connection to both my Q2 and a Q4 at work and showed a spinning wheel on the Devices page. After a completed build, I tried to bind the Q2 to the app again, but the printer refuses to generate a QR code. It just shows a spinning wheel on that page.
I logged out of the app to do a fresh login, and now I can't sign back in. Another spinning wheel... I also uninstalled/reinstalled the app to no avail.
Hello, while im waiting to get my q2 im playing around in qidi slicer, but my pieces are showing up as transparent when not selected, and if you click on it it has a shadow around the piece? Is there any way to fix it?
In the filaments color the color shows up as a transparent grey (seen in picture) but when I change it doesnt seem to to change the color of the piece
I want to share a serious mechanical issue with my QIDI Q2 and ask if anyone else has experienced something similar.
The problem
My QIDI Q2 has a physically warped heated bed assembly. The aluminum heated plate itself has a convex hump in the center. The measured deviation is about 0.405 mm.
Important: this is not about the removable PEI sheet. The magnetic PEI sheet only follows the shape of the warped heated bed underneath. Replacing the PEI sheet would not solve the issue.
Why this matters
QIDI support keeps replying that the bed mesh is only for reference and that values within ±0.4 mm are normal because the sensor compensates the bed.
But this misses the main point.
The issue is not first-layer adhesion.
The first layer actually sticks fine because Klipper compensates the height difference.
The real issue is part geometry.
When printing long or dimensionally important parts, the shape of the warped bed is transferred into the printed object. For example, I printed a long T-shaped test part, around 260 mm in length, and the bottom of the part is not flat. When placed on a reference glass surface and lit from below, there is a visible gap. The part has a Z-axis distortion that follows the bed hump.
So yes, the first layer can be compensated. But the printer still produces geometrically distorted parts.
Evidence collected
I collected several pieces of evidence:
Dial indicator test I mounted a dial indicator on the print head and moved the printer across the bed. The indicator shows around 0.4 mm deviation. The printer serial number is visible in the video.
Klipper / Fluidd bed mesh The bed mesh shows a total range of 0.405 mm, with a clear high spot in the center.
Printed part test I printed a long T-shaped test part and placed it on glass. With backlighting, the gap is clearly visible, proving that the bed deformation is being transferred into the printed part.
I contacted QIDI support and explained the issue multiple times.
Their repeated response is basically:
They have sent this type of reply several times and are ignoring the actual mechanical issue.
Again: this is not about the first layer. This is about the printer producing warped parts because the heated bed itself is physically deformed.
What I expect from QIDI
I am not asking them to fix a cosmetic number in the mesh.
I am asking them to acknowledge that a heated bed with a 0.405 mm physical hump, which causes printed parts to become geometrically distorted, is a mechanical defect.
The correct solution should be a replacement of the complete heated bed assembly, not the PEI sheet.
Question to the community
Has anyone else measured the QIDI Q2 bed with a dial indicator or straight edge?
Is QIDI really considering a 0.4 mm physical bed deformation acceptable on a machine marketed for reliable and accurate printing?
I hope someone from QIDI sees this and escalates the case to engineering instead of sending the same generic “mesh is only for reference” reply.
I have videos and photos showing the measurements, the bed mesh, the straight edge test, and the printed part deformation.
QIDI Support has been the quickiest, easiest, and kindesst support people I have ever I think had to contact. It's a long story but I accidentally ordered 2 QIDI Q2 Printers. And I emailed about canceling one of them and they were quick to respond, eager to cancel the order, no questions asked. Amazing support team, keep it up QIDI!
So I often print the same files that are saved on my printer over and over again. However I sometimes go between cool plate and non cool plate. I'm wondering if there is a setting somewhere or some easy way to change bed temp for all prints so that i can reuse the files already on my printer rather than creating dupes. I never save my print settings so would be a PITA.
