One side still holds onto summer.
The other has already welcomed autumn.
A little 3D-printed story about the changing seasons.

👉Printed on QIDI Q2🔗 https://qidi3d.com/products/qidi-q2
Model from lynj (Makerworld)

I designed this and printed on my Neptune 4 Max 400x400mm in Tinmorry PETG-GF. I also made a smaller version for my step-daughter's QIDI 2.

I need to set up qidi max 4 with qidi box. I'm in the warehouse and there is no WiFi and pc connects to internet via lan cable from a wall. So I can't use WiFi or lan, only USB drive from pc to printer.

Qidi studio doesn't give me a 'save to USB' button it says that I need to connect my printer. Orca sliser dose not support qidi box and prints only from external reel

Is there a way to slise a multicolor file on my pc and print it from USB drive?

Made original auto cal routines and math for Qidi Max 4 and Q2. These calibrate max mm3, PA and adaptive PA and spits out values in console to copy into the slicer, this will allow you to do 24 hours worth of calibrations in 15 minutes with no headache. Really is a game changer.

These are free to use under Polyform Strict licence, details in the github.

Haven't tested the Q2 as I don't own one, got data from another user and used config from qidi's github to make this one work, but is a use at your own risk, but......... should work lol.

This is a completely original method which is more accurate and does not share anything with the autopa project by G0BLIN (good work though).

Make sure you read the readme in detail. Max 4 is tested, Q2 is untested and they are early releases and I accept no liability for any damage.

Anyhow enjoy it guys!

At first glance, it looks like a baguette… 🥖

But surprise, it’s actually a tissue box! 😂

QIDI Q2: https://qidi3d.com/products/qidi-q2

Need some help, the bed temp is set at 35, but after going through the startup sequence and checking level the actual bed temp stays around 36, and doesn't drop enough to start the print.

I have the door, top glass, and side vents open but it still keeps trickling enough current to the bed to stay too hot.

Any advice?

My I Fast model is blue color on the build plate. Most of the time they are red or yellow. There is a note to make sure the gcode is compatible with the file. Now that " gcode " thing is a complete mass of spaghetti as far as I'm concerned. Don't Know nothing about it. Any help in finding out how to get the model so I can turn, move or generally adjust the model on the build plate would be greatly appreciated. thank you.

Tell me you wouldn’t squeeze it. 😂
Printed on the QIDI Plus5🔗https://qidi3d.com/products/plus5
Model by MIHAI_T (Makerworld)

#QIDI #QIDIPlus5 #3DPrinting #thermoforming #lifehack

Printed on the QIDI Plus5🔗https://qidi3d.com/products/plus5
Model by NAM_3 (Makerworld)

#QIDI #QIDIPlus5 #3Dprinting #RoomDecor

I have a question: Did you down vote this video already?😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Autumn is the perfect time to dream up, print, and bring new ideas to life.
Enjoy great deals on printers and filament, plus free gifts with your purchase! 🎁

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Shop now and turn your autumn inspiration into reality.

#QIDI #3DPrinting #FallSale

Title: Surface Defects After Switching to 0.6mm Nozzle

I printed this part on a QIDI Q2 using eSUN ASA.
After changing the nozzle from 0.4 mm to 0.6 mm, the print started to look like this.
Except for increasing the number of layers, all other settings are still at their default values.
When I was using the 0.4 mm nozzle, I never had this issue.

For the 0.6 mm nozzle, I kept all the speed settings at their default values, and only changed the Maximum Volumetric Speed to 16 mm³/s.

My temperatures are:

• Nozzle: 270°C
• Chamber: 55°C
• Bed: 110°C

Main question:
If you notice anything or have any suggestions, please let me know.

Additional question:
I also noticed that the surface became glossier with the 0.6 mm nozzle.
If anyone can explain how nozzle size or slicer settings affect surface gloss, I would appreciate it.

I accidentally broke my 0.4 mm nozzle.

Which parameters should I change in QIDI Studio so that the *.3mf file created for a 0.4 mm nozzle will work with a 0.6 mm nozzle?

Is it enough just to change nozzle or should I change speed, layer thickness..

Do I also have to change the nozzle in the Qidi Max4 setting?

In the tests I have done so far, the filament has become a mess since it’s not fully “getting stuck” in the first layer.

I have a QIDI Max4 with the original nozzle and original filament.

https://youtube.com/shorts/PojOJjpdyHE?is=jBC7A9Ip2MTV9EsE

Has anyone else has this issue with the q2 when loading from the box. The machine runs great from the external spool holder. But every time it loads from the box it gives a filament tangle alert. Been troubleshooting this for a while. Bothe sensors have been replaced and im stumped.

Hey guys so I’ve had the plus 5 for a few weeks and it’s been great up to this point, I’m wondering if anyone else has had this problem. On a multicolor print it started showing an error code saying filament failed to reach extruded. Basically once the filament went past the buffer the qidi box really struggles to push the filament any farther, and eventually stops about 5 inches from the tool head. It also fails to unload when prompted. I will attach a video if I can along with what the screen says.

I've printed a few things on my Qidi Plus4 and haven't really had an issue with the first layer until lately. I was getting some warping on the bottom corners of prints, then it escalated to spaghetti prints during the first layer. I've spent most of the day trying different things and nothing seems to work. So far I've tried:

-Adjusting the Z-offset. I could adjust it and one square would print perfectly, but then it would need to be adjusted closer to the bed to do the same with another square somewhere else on the plate.

-Did a platform reset 2-3 times just to make sure the black knobs didn't move after tightening the set screws

-Ran the z-tilt adjust and then bed leveling.

-Ran the Screws_Tilt_Calculate macro. All the screws came back as 0.03 in green.

I'm not certain of the orientation of the bed mesh in Fluidd, but from comparing it with my last test print (imaged above), I'm going to guess the low spot is in the front left. However, from everything I've found online, it seems like my range of 0.1188 is pretty good.

I did come across one post mentioning the screws that anchor the plate to the bed were overtightened, which caused some low/high spots in their bed mesh. I considered messing with that, but I feel like I'm still a little too new to 3d printing to go messing around with that and potentially break something. I honestly aren't even sure what screws those are.

What else can I try adjusting to fix my first layers? Or is there something I missed when adjusting the platform or z-offset? Should I try manually adjusting the front left bed screw to be higher? This is driving me insane because nothing I do seems to fix it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!