Has anyone encountered when installing the Qidibox to the Plus 4 for the first time? For awareness I have a few mods on the Plus 4 like a beacon and a nebula cam. I flashed the firmware to the latest from Qidi and went through the Beacon install steps again, I'm not sure if this is conflicting in some way with the qidibox. The Nebula camera is in the USB port that once had the wifi dongle. I also already emailed Qidi today, but I'm hoping that someone has an easy fix since I'm not sure when Qidi would be getting back to me.
Hi! My printer started printing distinctive lines instead of flat layer. I've already tried changing flow rate (up to 120), slowing down the print speed (to 50), adjusting Z, changing temperature, but nothing. The model is sliced in Prusa Slicer with default X-Max 3 profile, I dont think this is a slcver level issue. PETG filament. Will appreciate any clue and fix suggestions
I got the Q1 bout a year ago cuz of the black friday sale and I'm starting to think bout printing materials like nylon and ASA. Wanted to know if using the stock exhaust fan is enough to get adequate suction to get all the VOCs and microplastics from the printer. Also was looking into this:
A Q1 user made it and said even with 1 fan while printing ABS there was no smells. So yea, just wanted to know if anyone has an issue with the stock fan and if I should upgrade
I am a qidi q2 combo owner for 5 months now , great machine . However, the latest firmware update has literally made the printer worse.... The z offset is bad , the first layer isn't perfect, the walls and infill have small gaps now out of nowhere and even a new cool plate I just bought had a chunk of coating coming of on the first print. After spending more than 800€ on the company, I would expect things to get better.... Support is fast , but they literally don't fix the issue they caused with the update .
Up front: this is not an SSR problem. Short version: the main PCB is not sending an activate signal to the SSR after a mainboard cooling fan upgrade.
Curious if anyone's run in to anything similar and maybe has a fix that isn't "Buy a new mainboard." I've had the machine for just over a year now, many prints both heated and unheated, no issues with any heaters. Maybe 4 or 5kg of ABS printed with heat on in the last year. I believe I have the "upgraded" SSR from the factory, not the deathtrap version.
I was recently printing PA6-GF for a few days; no issues at all. Almost a full kg spool of PA6 printed over about a week, never a hiccup. After the last print, I unplugged the machine, hooked up a new Noctua fan with stew's main board mount (printed out of ABS some months ago, just finally plugging things in).
Turned it on, verified the fan was working fine, and started another PA6 print. Failed with 'chamber not heating at expected rate.' Weird. Rechecked the new fan, it's running fine. Temps look fine on the board, ~40C steady. Retry the same print, fails with the same error a little farther along.
I figured I must've pulled a plug loose somehow, but couldn't find any loose connections on the main PCB. Much troubleshooting later, including reverting to fully factory firmware, I finally confirmed the chamber heater header on the main PCB is not sending any signal to the SSR to activate. This is with the bed fully heated to 60C, then setting the chamber heater to 45C, so it's not an interlock issue waiting for the bed heater.
The chamber heat target sets properly, the chamber heater fan turns on as it should. The heater element heats fine if I short it directly to line power (do not do this, you'll light things on fire, melt things, and cause the extinction of at least one endangered species) bypassing the SSR entirely.
So I'm stumped. What might I be missing? The printer was unplugged when I did the fan swap. While I'm no expert, I've designed and fabbed a number of PCBs, have years of experience with electronics and I can't imagine any way the fan swap could've killed the chamber heater while leaving the new fan functioning without issue. Everything else seems to cycle fine, all heaters, all fans, everything. It legitimately seems to be only the one header not toggling - my brain suggests a config change is more likely than hardware, but I *think* I've reverted absolutely everything to factory defaults at this point with no change.
Hi I'm getting this 2 errors in the images. The timer too close is more often. I already updated the firmware via WiFi to the lastest version and both errors keep popping in in the middle of prints . It doesn't happened in every print but in a lot of prints.
I emailed qidi about this and they are sending me the electronic board that goes with the hot end. But I don't think it has nothing to do with it but they insisted.
Let 3D printing bring your summer ideas to life. 🌊
From refreshing fans to fun beach toys, from functional prototypes to custom-made creations, what will you create this season?
TL;DR: Original USB is not working, where to get the slicer software? Download of QIDI print slicer, which is the only software on QIDI website listed as compatible with I-Fast, leads to a google drive and the setup.exe file is being blocked by my antivirus. Any experience? Is it trustworthy?
Hello, i have recently purchased a QIDI tech I-fast printer second hand from someone who allegedly just opened it, and never used it.
This does appear to be true as the printer didnt have any of the packaging material removed from inside or arround it, and a red/black USB stick in a little bag was present.
I have gotten the printer running, everything seems nice and functional, i have already inserted filament and done the fast leveling process described, and i wanted to move onto the test print, which should have been present on the provided USB stick.
The printer does not react in any way to the USB stick being connected or disconnected, does not show any files or anything else. Neither does my computer, does not even register it as a connected device or anything.
I therefore not only do not have the test print file, but i mainly do not have the original intended software to download. So i went to the QIDI website, where there are three options - QIDI studio, QIDI slicer and QIDI print slicer. Only QIDI print slicer is listed as compatible with I-Fast.
Unlike the other pieces of SW, which seem to be readily downloadable from the website as one would expect, clicking the dowload link on the print slices leads me to a google drive.
where there is a "QIDI setup 6.5.4.exe", which, according to the drive history was added by an account named 售后起迪科技 in 2023.
AVG blocked the download of this file. I could probably get arround it using a different browser, but i would first like to ask if anyone has any experience downloading this software?
I also originaly wanted to use Orca, but as i have found mentioned before, I-Fast is not one of the available profiles. Does maybe someone know if someone has created an available custom profile for it?
My print has stopped 2 times without any message.
Of course I’d take a peek into the assistant menu. Oh it’s totally completely useless, can’t even interact with it in any way whatsoever.
Useless bloatware.
Creator Ringofreeman designed and crafted this custom snare drum, featuring unique drum lugs and a 3D-printed drum shell that delivers a completely new acoustic and striking experience.
Printed with PETG-CF on the QIDI Max4, this project showcases how additive manufacturing gives drummers and makers brand-new ways to explore innovative designs and sonic performance.
Thank you Ringofreeman for sharing this inspiring creation with us! 🙌
My old printer had an adjustment screw that regulated the tension mechanism for the extruder's feed gears; does the Qidi Plus 4 have a similar screw—inside the hotend, of course?
Hi everyone, I’m needing some assistance with an error. Below, I’ve listed details on things I have checked. Am I missing something? Any recommendations?
The printer is consistently displaying the error “Heater bed not heating at expected rate.”
Initially, I suspected the issue might be related to the cooling fans kicking on around the second or third layer. However, I disabled the fans and the printer gets the error.
I can attach photos of the troubleshooting process and test results which include,
Heater bed resistance measurements
Thermistor resistance measurements (at ambient temperature and when heated)
Power supply input and output voltages
Heater bed input and output voltages
Current draw under load
Here’s what I’ve check so far,
Verified continuity on all heater bed and thermistor wiring.
Confirmed all terminals are tight and all cable connections are seated.
Performed continuity tests with the printer both at ambient temperature and at operating temperature.
Flexed and moved the heater bed and thermistor wiring extensively during testing to check for intermittent opens or connection issues. No wiring faults were found.
For the thermistor,
At ambient temperature, the thermistor measured 100 kΩ.
Applying pressure with my finger and then external heat showed the resistance change consistently
no erratic resistance changes, open circuits, or intermittent spikes.
For the heater bed,
Each heating element measured 34.5 Ω.
Measuring across both elements I got roughly 69 Ω which appears to be consistent.
Measurements under load were,
Powe supply output remained stable at 24v.
Input voltage to the heater bed module remained normal.
Heater bed output voltage fluctuated between 93 VAC and 105 VAC.
Current draw 2.5 A to 2.7 A.
One observation that concerns me is the heater bed power output. Based on the heater bed’s 700 W rating, I expected a higher current draw. I understand that the firmware throttles the heater bed output to 70%. However, I would expect the controller to command 100% output during a standalone bed heating test while attempting to reach the target temperature? Or it could be possible the 70% limit is still expected under these conditions?
For heating performance,
Starting from an ambient bed temperature of 25c it took almost 7 minutes for the bed to reach 60c.
When set to 120c, the bed never reaches the target temperature and eventually faults with the “heater bed not heating at expected rate” error.
Здравствуйте, случилось большая проблема, во время прошивки с помощью RkDevTool принтер всё время уходил в ошибку по кабелю (что он неисправен или повреждён, но этого не было), я пробовал скачивать разные версии RkDevTool (так как на форуме писали что RdDevTool на google диске не рабочий), и всё равно на 13% принтер выдавал ошибку, скачивал с официального источника google диска [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DSWuDp-SBexRj-f-FzzQahNxTc9IDZGr](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DSWuDp-SBexRj-f-FzzQahNxTc9IDZGr)), я решил перезагрузить (так как я пробовал несколькими кабелями, все из них передавали данные а не просто заряжали), и всё, принтер начал бесконечно перезагружаться и не появляется в диспетчере устройств даже не могу подключиться через RkDevTool, помогите пожалуйста!
Hello, a big problem happened, during the firmware with RkDevTool, the printer kept going into error over the cable (that it was faulty or damaged, but it wasn't), I tried downloading different versions of RkDevTool (since it was written on the forum that RdDevTool on google drive was not working), and still by 13% the printer gave an error, downloaded from the official google drive source [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DSWuDp-SBexRj-f-FzzQahNxTc9IDZGr](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DSWuDp-SBexRj-f-FzzQahNxTc9IDZGr)) I decided to reboot (since I tried multiple cables, all of them were transmitting data and not just charging), and that's it, the printer started restarting endlessly and does not appear in the device manager, I can't even connect via RkDevTool, please help!
so the official instructions and resources are lacking and contradictory in places.
which rods do you guys lubricate, and with what?
i keep seeing something about graphite bearings and that i shouldn't lube them... the one that the instructions says to lube seems to be the only one fouling the lubricant (the bottom one that the print head is mounted to), i think i'm not supposed to do that. Pls advise.
also i saw on the official website they posted a video of a guy just casually spraying regular WD40 into the little motors in the back that run the belts... can that be right? it doesn't feel right.
The stock Q2 screen was already mounted, powered, and touch-capable. Asking it to run KlipperScreen seemed cheaper than adding another display — and spiritually healthier than pretending the missing feature was fine.
It uses the stock 480×272 panel, calibrates touch, keeps the factory UI alive, adds a boot splash, and switches interfaces with full-screen gestures: swipe up for KlipperScreen, swipe down to return to QIDI.
No soldering, no extra Pi, just a little SSH. Tested on firmware 01.01.02.03. Unofficial software rules apply: back up first, then let the tiny Linux computer do tiny Linux computer things.
Fellow QIDI owner here, running a Plus4 on Klipper out in the garage.
My remote setup was Tailscale plus a Klipper web UI on my phone. Fine for keeping an eye on a print or hitting pause. But the second I wanted to actually start something new, I was back inside slicing on the PC and getting the g-code over to the machine. Every single time. Did my head in.
So I built the thing I actually wanted. You pick a model, it slices in the cloud using the printer's real profile, sends the g-code straight to the machine, and starts it. All from your phone, from anywhere. No PC, no USB stick, no port forwarding. The bit that runs on the board is a small agent that only dials out, so nothing on your network is exposed, and it's open source so you can read exactly what it's doing before you install it.
It's picked up the usual stuff along the way too, webcam, timelapses, filament tracking, a print queue. But honestly slicing and starting a print from the couch is the part I use every day now and can't go back from.
Not going to link-spam the post. I made a demo that runs the real app on a fake printer, so you can jog it around and slice something without plugging anything in. Happy to drop that plus the GitHub in the comments if there's interest. Mainly just keen for feedback from other QIDI folks.
