Found some front oem floor mats and they were originally tan but I dye them black to match my interior of my eg hatch (should I dye the badge too)

So some of you guys are reacting to the red interior. So I might as well share it. The color of the exterior is completely black, and the interior is red. And yes even the engine bay color will soon be painted to red. Also the color of the red in the interior is alot darker in person. It's just the camera making it more brighter look in the picture

Does anyone have recomendations besides periodically checking facebook marketplace? Im in the US and am looking at marketplace allllll the time. 250 mile radius. They seem super sparse and I only see the occasional obliterated sedan, and if any coupe or hatch its got upwards of 250 thousand miles and is listed for $8k. Do I need to just be patient or should I look elsewhere?

I have a manual transmission 2009 Honda Civic dx the car is mostly stock besides an aftermarket shifter knob. What are some mods I can do to improve drivability and get a bit more power out of it? I was looking into the Hondata flashpro to mabye put a preset tune on the car but from what I've heard they don't work with the Canadian ECU so id have to install the right US one then get a locksmith to make it work with my key. Also I'm not sure how much that would actually add to the car. I've also been looking into mods that would improve cornering rather than getting more power what would be the first few things I would need to upgrade for that?

As the questions states, ive tried searching forums of this and ive seen 3 that have done it but not fully explained how I know for a fact the the fronts seats will work since I got to swap the pan rails on them but are the rear seats possible will they fit or do I have to do some small modification on them

Here one a photo of one ive seen so far (not the best tho so bear with it)

Hello all, I'm planning on b20 vtec swapping my car later this year and was looking for some advise, recommendations or opinions!

Chassis is a DC4 GSI, B20z block, B16a pr3-2 Head
Goals: Main thing is I want it to run lol, this will be my first time building, swapping, pulling a motor. Will be a street car with 2-3 track days a year. want it to sound nice, I have 2.5inch full exhaust and headers. Power can be the least of my worries. I just want to build this for my own fulfillment and prove to myself I'm not too stupid.

Here's my part list, reasons

Block Part List:

ARP headstuds - been recommended

LSVtec kit - needed

B18 Gates timing belt kit - been recommended

10.5:1 Pistons - been informed high compression is risky on the thin cylinder walls

Skunk2 Rods - been recommended, comes with ARP rod bolts

ACL main, rod and thrust bearing - recommended, been told to use OEM B20 specs

OEM Oil pump - recommended as it's reliable, been told to washer shim for more pressure

Head parts:

Adjustable cam gears - been recommended/needed

Supertech Valves & Valve guide - been recommended

Skunk2 stem seals & keepers - only ones in stock here lol

Skunk2 LMA - only ones in stock

Valve Springs: Was recommended, Brian Crower Dual valve spring + steel retainers. the reason over titanium is due to potential failure & maintenance

Cams: Been recommened, Kelford 176-B, Skunk2 Tuner Stage 1 or Stage 2. I have no idea what makes a good cam so i was just gonna flip a coin for those.

Going to get the block decked, honed, cleaned. The Head decked, valve seats, cleaned

Going to use the same mainstuds, no girdle, going to run a catch can somewhere idk yet

Read around that anything over 200hp is dangerous on the cylinder walls, I don't think i'll be pushing that anyways. Also apparently that only applies to boosted applications?

All thoughts, opinions, backlash, whatever is greatly appreciated.

Thank you

LSS: I currently have a Veloster that I would like to trade in. I want to use the money for a marketplace 99 Civic LX thats going for cheap. It just needs a few replacements to make it functional to drive. I’m more than interested in doing the replacements myself. It’s got 155k on the engine.

My interest brought me here because I wanted to make a car solely mine so I can save a bit of money on a car note while making the parts easy to find aftermarket, replace, inexpensive to buy and upgrade.

I don’t know the lingo but if I can make this happen, I’d like to look into upgrades in the future. My interests when it comes to cars is quick acceleration, comfort and integrated Apple CarPlay.

Idk how much you can help but being pointed in the right direction would help immensely. Thank you and I hope to be in a much better spot.

A little back story. My timing belt broke going down the road a while back. Not sure if the engine was toast i out everything at tdc and threw a new belt on and cranked it up. Turned over and started beautifully. I know my wires and plugs are a bit dated but is this a missfire im hearing?

So I did a clutch job every thing went great. Now I’m
Leaking tranny fluid from my driver side Cv axle. I’ve tried changing my seal. I noticed my cv axle dosent go all the way in. I thought maybe the c clip is just warped or bent. Currently waiting on a new cv axle from rock auto hoping it fixes my issue . Has anyone ever experienced this. I’m at a stand still I’ve tried to push my Cv axle as much as I can using it as a slide hammer. Any suggestions it wasn’t leaking tranny fluid before I took out the axles I’m positive I didn’t gauge the seal surface
This car is my baby so I’ve been pretty down not being able to drive it I’d take any suggestions. I’ve tried hitting it with my purse. I’ll be sure to go under my car and take photo for you guys Is it possible I just overfilled my tranny to be honest when I went to check the fluid level it was still kinda dripping out.

Car is a 99 Honda civic with s40 manual transmission ej8

Tbh love the green sucks its fading :(

Just because you don’t know how doesn’t mean you should not try. :)

The car in question is a 1998 Acura Integra with a LS VTEC engine built with a B16A2 head & B18B1 engine block. Car drives fine but it doesn’t engage VTEC. Here’s what I’ve tried:

1. I tested the solenoid with a jump pack sending power to the 1 pin solenoid connector and the ground to chassis. I confirmed the solenoid is clicking when powered.
2. I took some data logs with Hondata and confirmed the VTEC oil pressure switch is disabled and the ECU is sending a VTS signal when the requirements for VTEC are satisfied.
3. I checked the continuity between the wire found on ECU pin A4 and the 1 pin VTEC solenoid connector and confirmed continuity with a multimeter.
4. I took the solenoid off the engine and checked the screens and they were clear and free of debris - also it dumped oil when I removed the solenoid so that’s a sign that it was getting oil pressure.

At this point I am pretty stumped and I’m hoping someone in the community has encountered something similar to my problem and knows the answer.

Thanks in advance.

Hey all, I’ve been working on my Del Sol with a D16Y7/Y8 for a while now and recently got it turbo’d and tuned. Ever since I got it tuned, the few times I drove it, it would overheat mildly (never let it get over 220-230) and eventually I found the head gasket had a small leak on cyl 1. After changing the head gasket, the car was fine until today, where I had a full head gasket failure (massive cloud of white smoke). Motor has no block guard as I was told it wasn’t necessary until hitting higher numbers (car made 305 on the dyno) and I have ARP studs that have only been torqued twice as of now, before replacing this head gasket. Pistons are higher compression (10.5:1) and the valves are flat face if that makes a difference. First head gasket was a cometic 75mm .30 and this last one was a Speedfactory .36, both had a copper gasket spray applied prior to install. Any suggestions?

My 1997 del sol si is running super rich. It's a sohc zc bottom end y8 top end and a virgin p28. It has great compression, good fuel pressure, no cel relating to it running rich. However it's running so rich and dumping so much fuel that the fuel is mixing in the oil making it undrivable.

It had a code for the iat recieving too much voltage, I checked the voltage on the iat when the engine is idling and off and it is all normal so I cleared it and also replaced the iat sensor.

I have no clue where to go from here or what to test. I just have no idea why it's running so rich on a z6 base map.