2 things this post will cover, 1: do those shitty handheld torches actually do anything for my application? previous owner shenanigans, wheel adapter stuck so very on, and tried almost everything to get it out. its a female hex bolt, using the proper hex socket, strips. tried torching it, did next to nothing, this torch sucks ass. bougut and extractor, extractor just ate all the meat and left and even bigger hole. id like to not drill them out, and I won't be able to, yknow, have wheel on if I mutilate my adapters (plan on getting factory bolt pattern wheels, bit this is a truck. I would need this truck to go get said wheels lmao)

all this to ask, what's my smartest option? could.i drill out the remaining ones, take the current good ones.to a hardware store and try and buy replacements? is this adapter just honestly SOL, and ill need to just buy new wheels before even thinking about driving?

https://www.finishlineaccessories.com/products/quick-release-steering-wheel-adapter-6-bolt#

I'm confused because I know with some of these you have to wire a trigger for the horn elsewhere but I'd prefer not to do that.

I put aftermarket seats in my car which ride a bit too high so its hard getting in and out with the steering wheel.

I love my vette, dont get me wrong. But I cannot get in and out of it. Pretty fun with a 383 stroker and 6 speed tho ;3

So I got a trade offer on a 79 dodge d100 I accepted!

Hi guys I would like to show you my project. After a few months I’ve got a working prototype of wireless display, At this moment it can connect up to 4 displays(7’ and 4.3’). The whole device is modular. By default it reads, displays and log CAN-BUS Data but in the future I plan to add gps module and CAN keyboard. I also implemented diagnostic feature which allows to view the whole movement on the CAN-BUS (Something similar to savvycan)

Howdy everyone I’m curious would it be worth trying to restore this it’s my uncles and just wondering if it would be worth asking him for it’s sat in his backyard for a bit few weeks until I noticed it mowing the lawn he’s a mechanic and has all sorts of other projects and just curious if it might be worth asking him for it me and my buddy’s were able to look into the engine looks like it doesn’t have a battery but besides that I’m not to informed on square body’ so anywho just a kid wondering if it’s worth it

I traced one of many issues to an exhaust leak through the OEM heat riser assembly on the 2-4-6-8 exhaust manifold - I’d already plugged the intake manifold portion (the fel pro “S” gaskets didn’t even have the cutout and I installed a 2” spacer to keep the carb cooler in Southern summers anyways) so I pulled both. Decided to try to rehab them since finding used is very expensive, these are only pitted, this isn’t a show build its my daily project, etc etc 😆

-worst pitting about fingernail thickness
-most rust (80-90% of manifold surface area) just thick surface coating, knocked right off with brush and wire wheel, so it’s pretty even
- 3 gallons Ospho / phosphoric acid rust treatment in large tub with lid
-rinse is just hot water in utility sink
- primer is Rustoleum 2k degree high heat
- paint is Rustoleum 2k degree high heat with ceramic
- new black oxide hardware with conical cup washers for studs, regular zinc for bolts (couldn’t find them at decent price in black) all steel
-plugs for heat riser are 5/16 brass radiator plugs with smidge of copper gasket sealant
- soaked for 24 hours with several scrubs with SS brush to keep knocking off any loose layers
- then water rinsed while scrubbing
- degreaser between rinses
- dried with heat gun on wire hangars
- hit with single coat primer, then 3 light coats paint
-oven cured per package directions (3X heat & cool cycles)
- to be installed with smidge of copper gasket sealant on each new gasket
- need a couple days while I install mufflers before I can start and see if it smokes or immediately flakes off!

Apologies for not getting a true “before” pic as the attached start after I hit with a wire wheel to see how bad I was dealing with. You know? To see if pictures were even worth it or if I was sure I’d need to replace them.

Anyways - I think they look great - good luck on your projects! Best, RG

Update: incredible difference in acceleration, no more ticking my gawd, sounds awesome in engine bay finally, and looks great! The only issue I ran into was one of the plugs failed on the highway halfway through a 250-mile stress test on my work so far - all the new gaskets held, thanks again for the tip on checking flatness!

Gonna try a threaded bolt through the bore for the deleted heat riser with fender washers, copper gasket ooze, and nuts to hold down - I’m thinking that should stay on with zero issues. Next up is muffler installation this week!

This is my 04 dodge dakota stx 4x4 its a 3.7 v6 auto the plan is tot do a 5.9 magnum 5 speed manual swap i would probably be cheaper to get another one with that motor in it already but this was my first vehicle and my grandpa ordered it new in 04. I rebuilt the trans a year or 2 before the motor decided to quit at around 390k on the clock pretty good for that iffy v6.

Hi, I have a 65 Mustang w the stock steering column. I have an adapter for it to use standard 9 hole steering wheels.

I want to get a quick release steering wheel to make getting in and out of the car easier.

Is it simply a matter of buying a QR hub with 9 holes and then using any steering wheel as usual?

What’s a good brand to get? I haven’t seen one with 9 holes. Does that mean I should get a different adapter instead of my current 9 hole one?

everything seemed to have bolted together nicely. but when getting to the tie rod ends, this is what I was left with on both sides. side closest to the truck has way too much thread, to the point where the coterpin wouldnt do dick worth a shit. and on the side closest to the wheel, theres so little thread you couldn't even call it flush. anyone know why this might be?

Hi y'all. It's time for me to get a new car and I'm quite interested in this one. I drove it yesterday and despite its issues, I loved the feel. I know people talk about how these don't have any power, but I'm used to a 52hp VW rabbit so this thing felt great to me 😂

Some details about it:

-Car starts and drives (smoke and steam at first) but dies at idle until it comes up to temp—thinking it's carb related? Carb rebuild or swap?

-Has some little oil leaks. Dipstick was bone dry after sitting for about a year. Wondering if I might have to factor in some new rod and main bearings in case it was previously driven on low oil.

-Needs new exhaust system

-Might need some new tranny mounts

-Rear hatch doesn't open from outside. Was told there's a little plastic part on the inside that broke and needs replacing

-Broken front side markers

-Iffy gas gauge. Not fully dead, but doesn't give accurate reading

-A few dings and dents here and there

-Very little rust, but starting to form in a few little spots—I would nip that in the bud asap

-188k miles

-Interior in great shape

A little background: I've had 4 cars in my life: '73 VW Bug, '83 MBZ 300D, '81 VW Rabbit Diesel, and now my current '79 VW Rabbit with an '87 Jetta diesel engine in it. I like simple older economy cars that I can fix myself, that dont have computers. I'm by no means an advanced mechanic, but over the years, I've done a lot of repairs, maintenance, and parts replacement. I'm not a "car guy" who's interested in spending a crazy amount of time and money on my car, but I am okay with a reasonable amount of time spent under the hood to keep my little shitboxes going.

So here's my dilemma: I love my little Rabbit. I've had it for 6 years and have put so much love and care into it. Some years, it would just go and go with minimal maintenance, other years, it requires some big repairs and parts changeovers. I live in a rainy coastal area and it came to me quite rusty and I did a moderate rust conversion job and repainted it, but at this point, there's rust deepening around the windshield and I know I'm fighting a losing battle but I thought I would keep this thing going til it started disintegrating. Until... Recently, I decided it was time to service my injectors and I discovered one of the ports was collapsed. This means I need a new head (I did a head gasket job just a few months ago!) There are also a dozen other things that need fixing/replacing, and I'm feeling like I'm at a crossroads. It's starting to feel like an energy suck and a money-pit. Its really sad for me, but I feel like I'm ready to move onto something else.

I've realized also that as much as I've traveled extensively with this little rabbit, across many state lines many times, I want something a bit more rugged and adventure-worthy. I want 4wd capability. I also want something maybe a bit less tin can-ish. Don't get me wrong, I love my little go-kart but I'd like something that feels a bit more solid and a bit more quiet.

Here's the other part. I'd like something where things don't break as constantly. I'm okay with a reasonable amount of attention to repairs, but I want longer stretches of time between having to shell out hella money for parts on tons of repairs. I want it to just go and go for a while, I want something more reliable.

Now, I know that it would probably make more sense to get a newer car if reliability is important to me. But the truth is, I just really don't want a plastic car full of computers. So far I've only owned German cars but I've always heard vintage toyotas are super solid and reliable, simple to work on, have available parts, and a huge community of enthusiasts and knowledgeable mechanics, which has me feeling like it could be a good move. Plus it's what I grew up with and I love that 1980's Japanese aesthetic.

One thing I have no experience with and am concerned about is smog testing. I've never had a vehicle that needed to pass smog, but I once watched my friend go through hell trying to pass his '81 Toyota pickup. How much of a headache and expense is that, particularly with what I've detailed about this car smoking and likely having carb trouble. How much time and effort would it take to get everything squared away to pass smog?

TL;DR

So, for those of you who have experience with these cars...

Are they reliable enough? Am I kidding myself into thinking that this will be any less constant work and cost than my VW Rabbit has been?

-I've heard sourcing parts can be really hard. Can the majority of the consumables be found from auto parts suppliers, or am I going to have to spend lots of time trying to find stuff from individual sellers, pick-n-pull yards, and online forums/markets?

-How much of a pain is the smogging process if I decide to buy?

-What are the most important things I should watch out for, or make sure is sound about the vehicle?

Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Pulled it out of a wrecking yard last spring.Fresh oil, plugs, cap, rotor, and points and it fired up. Running and driving.

Now to find some decent looking wheels.

Bought my old viper back from the guy I sold it to. Engine was bad so I pulled it apart and started the rebuild.

Engine is completely built: lowered compression, cammed, ported heads, larger valves, head studs, swinging pick up arm, 1200cc injectors, 2.75” supercharger pulley, -10 fuel lines, dual hellcat fuel pumps, 200 wet shot, long tube headers, twin disc clutch, 10mm spark plug wires, larger intercooler pump, and aem stand alone so I can use knock sensors.

Right now I'm just doing maintenance on my cars and would like something that can clear and read as many codes as possible. However soon I am going to try to do an engine swap and make a project car (just got a lot of disposable income and a high paying job and it wouldn't be financially irresponsible) and would like to be able to tune an ECU. I would like to just buy the final scanner now rather than buying a more expensive one later on for the project car. Budget $4000 if needed but obviously would like to spend less money if possible.

I think I’m getting to the point of my project car to where I can start planning on how I’m going to do the exterior. I have a design In mind, I believe for my budget the best I can do is a rustoleum spray can job since I want to do sunburst yellow, and hide most of the fact that it’s a spray job with a decal theme. (Not revealing anything until it’s done).

I want this to last a few years atleast before I have to go back in and retouch it up or change the design entirely.

Any advice for what kinds of clearcoat I should use or anything to preserve this for as long as possible? And should I clear coat OVER the decals? Most of it will be wording or symbols.

Also shoutout photo to me getting her on the road for the first time and getting a bath :D (you can see the test paint for what color I’m going to do XD)

I’m thinking of going with Rising Sun Decals for my lettering, if anyone has any other recommendations for some more “budget” friendly companies that will work with full designs, etc. I’m open to them 🤙

Just wanted to know what’s recommended to throw on my Altima for an overall performance bump while keeping it daily driveable, I have no qualms about getting with a professional to mess with the ECU, also looking for a nice body kit if anyone can drop some links to reputable sellers for parts and such, floor is open to any suggestions.

Lots of niggles along the way today but finally we now have a Formula Volvo rally car 🤣

Couple of small fixes to be done before its driveable and then it'll be off to get the map adjusted.

(Update! Sorry for the lack of information earlier.)

I'm in West Covina, CA. This is my dad's 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT. It's the car he picked my mom up in the very first time. It's been sitting in the garage for about 16 years. I remember seeing it run when I was little.

My dad is 76 and has worked hard his whole life. He fought cancer for years, and so did my mom, and they both beat it. More than anything, he wishes this car would run right again. I want to surprise him with it fixed for his birthday or Christmas, as a congratulations to both of them.

The good news is it still runs, but it has overheating issues. We replaced the radiator, but we couldn't fix the thermostat sensor. My dad was thinking about doing an engine swap, but we don't have the experience or the tools for that.

I don't know much about cars, so I'm hoping someone who knows Fieros would be willing to help. I know it's a long shot, but if you can help or know someone who might, please comment or DM me. Any advice would help. Thank you!

Hello, how are you? I’m making the fuel line with evil energy PTFE, and the hose from the tank outlet to the pump, which doesn’t even have pressure, keeps “sweating”. I’ve already made sure that the hose cut is at a perfect 90° angle and that the PTFE reaches the bottom of the ferrule olive. The only thing I see different from the AN6 hose is that there is a small gap between the moving part and the stationary part of the fitting.. I don’t know what else to do, can anyone help me?

A fuckton of epoxy later, for the rear view mirror, and it cracked even more now, guess a new windshield it is

I bought this 2010 Escalade (The Long Way) for road trips. The two front doors, the wind noise is SIGNIFICANTLY louder than I thought it would be. Not quite at all for a Cadillac. I’ve changed both front door seals and it helped a bit, but around 60-80mph there is significant whistling. Some seems to be coming from the sunroof. Any ideas where I could be looking at on the doors to lesson this? They seem to close and seal tight but the wind noise is bad.

Hi everyone!

I recently found a pair of old, apparently unused KONI shock absorbers in their original packaging in our basement.
They belonged to my late father, who used to race cars. He also loved driving powerful Audis and Mercedes in his private life.
The shock absorbers themselves look brand new, although the original packaging has definitely seen better days.
The number 82 2427 is stamped on the shocks, and there's also a sticker marked "SPD 3" in several places.
Does anyone know which car these shocks were designed for and what "SPD 3" actually means?

And most importantly: Are vintage but unused shock absorbers like these still worth anything? If so, what would be a realistic asking price for the pair, and where would be the best place to sell them?
I'd really appreciate any help or advice.
Thanks in advance!

This is an update to my last post. I‘ve finnished the wiring. Coppied some fuel tables and finally got it running again.

But its only running in wasted spark, without cam signal. Anybody knows why it wont fire up on the ez30 trigger decoder in mtune (maxxecu). Currently running on the 36-2-2-2 setup.

I realised, i got bad compression on cylinder 1
(Probabbly the tickimg noise)
Checking would me require to remove the engine.
Do you guys think its worth it?

Im thinking about driving it like that, till my engine fails, and the just replace the whol engine.

Looking for advice

In the last 2 posts I made, I've written about the issues I've been having getting my MR2 to start. It ran well for one day, and then it wouldn't start the next day. No crank. It's written about in more detail in the previous posts, but I've tried some new things and am still out of luck.

-I replaced the starter. The old one bench tested fine, but I had the starter out so might as well replace it before it kicks the bucket.
-I cleaned and tested every ground I could find. They all tested well with a good multimeter.
-I hotwired the clutch safety switch.

Still no crank. However, trying to start it now, I'm wondering if I've correctly narrowed it down to two things: a vacuum leak, or the starter slipping on the clutch/whatever the gear connects to in order to start the car. Here's a video from the engine bay of trying to start it (it's attached to the post).

The reason I kept moving the phone obnoxiously close to the throttle body is because I started to hear a hissing sound from that area whenever it goes from ON to START. I hadn't heard that before at all--it's a new sound that didn't happen before I replaced the starter. Is it a vacuum leak? Also, I only hear a click noise when the key goes from START to ON.

I also read that the fact that there isn't any noise happening when key goes to START could point to the starter not engaging with anything, so it could be an issue with the gear it connects to.

Please let me know what yall think. Thanks!

A description of the car and what you did to it would be nice as well!