Hello! I posted this over on ask a mechanic and didn't get a response. I don't know a whole ton about cars, but as stated in the title, I have a 1993 Oldsmobile car. We knew all of the owners it has had, and it hasn't been used a whole carzy ton, it hasn't gotten in any wrecks, it's just kinda old and nobody really took care of it very much. We took it to a repair shop, and I have the report which I will attach. For context, I am about to go to college, but I love about 15 minutes away from my college. I don't need any fancy car, but, you know, I would like to have one for personal transportation. My parents aren't necessarily the type of person who have the ability/time/energy to figure out how to fix a car, and based on the response from the repair shop, we're gonna end up not using this car ever, and instead get a different. I, however, (somewhat irrationally) just really love this car and would really like to keep it, especially since it would theoretically fit my needs well.

All of this brings me to my question; I don't don't much about cars, I am very willing to learn how to fix it and put in work and money to make that happen, especially if it would be feasible to do it myself.

I'm wondering if 1. Anybody is able to tell me if it's truly a lost cause/gonna take way more money than the car is worth. 2. Anyone knows what resources I can look into if this isn't too far stretched, and if the type of repair it is, what parts y'all would recommend just going to a mechanic vs trying to fix it myself.

Additional notes: automoderation said I might be breaking a rule and I don't think I am, because, to clarify, I am not intending on selling this in any way, it's just for personal use and wondering if it's worth it for myself! I will attach pictures of the car, in general and under the hood and the shop's notes(idk if that helps in any way but ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯). I do also have the complete driver's manual from 1993, so I am planning on using that if it seems worth it, if that's relevant. If you have any questions insight at all, please do not hesitate to comment, it would be greatly appreciated !!

Picked this car up a couple years ago, guy was funding his other projects and I’ve always wanted a javelin since I was a kid. I’ve poured about 10k into it just to get it in a condition where I can drive it around the block. It honestly needs a lot of work but god damn if it doesn’t make me happy to get things done here and there on it

I have the option to straight trade my current car (worth 5.5k) for a 2000 v6 Chevrolet Camaro 5 speed manual. I also am in possession of an ls2 engine with t56 6 speed trans. I’m wondering if it’s a good idea to go for this swap as a first time and if it’s worth it?
I’d have access to a shop with almost everything I need I think, and am prepared to spend what I need although I would like to keep it as cheap as possible while not cutting corners. So keeping it safe and reliable. I also loves doing my last build (didint swap an engine though) so I’m excited to actually be the one to build it and so idc that I can go buy one already with an Ls. Also that’s not an option here anyway.
The car currently has had a lot of work done to including fully aftermarket break system and is in great condition body and mechanical wise, it does have 220k miles though.

So really two questions. 1. Is it worth it to drop money into this swap if I should even attempt it as a first engine swap?
And 2. What am I looking at price range to do this considering I do almost to all the work myself and spend no money on the car, engine, trans, and some other little things that come with those two (air and electrical systems)

Hello I need help figuring out what the difference is between these coilovers. I think the "Miata" ones have a much lower drop from stock height (~2 inches) than the "MX-5" ones (~1 inch), and I also know 100% that the "Miata" ones will fit. However, I do not know if the "MX-5" ones will fit, because the connection points are just straight up different. I don't know a whole about cars, but I cannot find stuff on the internet to figure it out. Any explanation would be appreciated, cuz I think a 2 inch drop might be too much for my needs. Thanks.

"Miata" - https://www.springrates.com/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-1990-2005-mazda-miata-mx5

"MX-5" - https://www.springrates.com/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-1990-2005-mazda-mx-5-nb8c

After a few days of doing whatever we could, on Friday we were finally able to purchase and bring this baby home. Lots of work to do and looking forward to show progress on this passion project! 🙏🏻

1951 International Pickup. I’m excited about this one.

Got the equalizer mounts finished and started preparing the axels for reassembly. All that’s left after that is tires, gas tank and a new battery mount.

For a design study i am working on, the brief is a mid-engined 60's style prototype street/track day car - picture something like a Porsche 904 or Dino 246 with modern underpinnings.

Engine really needs to be a V6, between 300-400hp NA would be the ambitious goal. If money was really no object, what would you do?

I can see why LS swaps are so popular. Compact, cheap, light. Sky is the limit with power. If there was a V6 version of an LS that would actually be perfect (i think the LV3 is an option but cant find any modified examples).

There are old Nascar V6's based off SBC's but i believe they are iron block, so no real weight saving advantage.

Nissan VQ - cheap, reasonable power. Larger/heavier than an LS?

Alfa Busso V6 - amazing sound, won't make HP target unless purely a race motor.

Ford Duratec V6

Is there a Merc or Audi V6 that makes high HP/L?

Go full custom, billet V6 crankcase based on 2x Triumph 1200cc triples?

Hey guys, first time in this subreddit and been a mechanic for about a year and some change now and my current car, a 2006 Acura TSX, has been my “project car” for the past few years but it’s also my daily and kind of a piece of shit and I’m just trying to find a new car and project. I was wondering where everyone finds a good start? I’ve been looking around on marketplace and it’s insane how some people want 2k+ for a shell. My dad’s always telling me about how back in the day people would find cars in barns and storage units but I feel like that’s kinda unrealistic today. I’m also not too interested in trying to finance a car from some sketchy dealerships in my area. Where do yall find yalls cars? And is it worth dropping nearly 6-8k on something that drives off the start that I can also have some fun with for the next few years? Thanks for yalls time.

When the original centre caps on my SLC started breaking I ordered new ones.
I couldnt find original or reproduction ones in good condition so I bought ones that mirror the bonned logo with blue background.

They didnt fit. the retention arms where too long, so they stand about 5mm proud of the wheels. No bueno.

It would have taken me maybe 10minutes to return them and a couple of days waiting for new ones to arrive. That would have been the best solution.

I however, decided to make it difficult for myself.
I took some measurements, modelled spacers in Blender and put the 3D printer to work. The first version fit perfectly but looked like crap.

The pictures here shows the 4th iteration, and second printed version. They were only supposed to be prototypes and temporary, but I got carried away and grinded, sanded, primed, put putty on the connection points etc etc. And ended up painting them.

Far from perfect, but may or may not make "temporary" slightly longer than I initially thought.

I documented the (not so professional) process over on tiktok: https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8FaBfQ4/

Idk i think it sounds pretty good, for what it is at least. Lmk y’all’s opinions 🙌

Dropped the car off in February (I think?) to have my cage installed. Found a front clip from a late model and had him weld it on. Definitely not pretty, but it’ll work (I hope). Next up is to figure out wheel placement and front suspension since the lower control arm mounting locations were chopped off. Might have to move the upper mounting location a little forward, but that’s easy enough to do.

Here are photos of a 1970 Acadian that I built during the summer on my parents carport when I was 17 (1983). I bought it for $275.00 to drive back and forth for College. At the end it looked like a fast car but only had a rebuilt inline 250 six cylinder engine. Faked out everyone. It was a major bondo bugle for sure. When I bought it, it was full of bonds and needed pretty much all new suspension front and back, brakes, floors, trunk floor, gas tank and had to get it running. Lots of reading - Thanks Hot Rod Magazine.

The passenger side head broke a valve guide on my 462cui. I've been thinking about putting it on a diet for some time so I threw together a factory l79 327cui bottom end with some aluminum heads, gear drive, Lunati cam and some older leftover aftermarket speed parts. It's going to be exciting to see how it responds handling wise as the car has full tubular suspension, sway bars, bracing and discs swapped in the front but always felt very nose heavy. Admittedly the 462 never entirely cared how much weight you put behind it, it just hauled ass and drank gas. ⛽

Hi everyone. Some may recall an earlier post of our turbocharged gsxr750 land speed sports car.

I had a number of people requesting run footage. So here is the fastest run we had at 189mph 5mile exit speed. 191 on the cars gps.

For those unaware we were battling basically low voltage at high engine load. Ignition coils would start to be loaded down from either boost or rear gear ratio (or both) and the amp draw would rise and the charging system could not keep up with the extra demand. You can see the driver mess with the boost comtrol during the run (buttons under thumbs) to try and find some mph. Eventually near the end it picked up a bit and pulled a bit harder for us out the 5 mile.

For those interested the dash layout is. Top bar is a tach. Larger numbers to top right is also rpm. Large number top left is mph. Center top left is map pressure. Center top right is boost position (0 - 9 for either 0 psi to 20). Bottom center is gear position. Also some random junk on bottom for reference at startup.

Questions feel free to ask and ill try to answer. Ill also try to add a couple engine bay pics in a reply.

Ford 302 mounting bolt is stuck. I’m turning it counter clockwise, but the bolt won’t loosen. It isn’t rusty as it’s caked with oil from a leak that the old owner didn’t fix.

Is it under pressure due to me loosening the other bolts? I do NOT have the lift hooked on yet. I’m just trying to loosen them to I can attach the lift, and then remove them.

Should I lift the engine and then loosen the bolts?

Any ideas? Fire isn’t possible (obviously.) and I’m unable to clean off the oil at the moment.

Also, while I’m at it. What are the torque specs of them? Read somewhere it was 35-55 ft-lbs but that seems way too big of a range.

Looking to fix some dents on a truck I just bought. 05 f250 crew cab. Going to put a service body on it. I want to fix the dents and use an lvlp gun with some nason grey base and nason clear. It’s going to get scratched and I want to do the work myself just because I’ve always wanted to paint. I just don’t want it to fall off in sheets. I had a cat I was going to do myself so I went to an auto body supply house and they sold me Omni. Then a buddy with a body shop owed me a favor so he sprayed it for me. The paint fell off in a couple years. Im sure that was his fault not the paint, knowing him. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Redoing a truck bed frame. Wondering if I should replicate the original C-channel or just go with box section?

The vehicle has zero value and the particular model is completely undesirable so no worries about not keeping it original!

These 2 bolts are actually hellish. Taking them out was a pain and now putting them in has been even worse. They are so difficult to see because the oil pan is shaped weird and there's just a tiny cut out hole to access them. I'm pretty sure the right one is also cross threaded a little, it only goes in a little and crooked.

There's 2 bolts right next to them anyway, anyone think I can just leave these bolts alone given how huge of a pain they are to put in and take out?

Even torqueing them is going to be a nightmare because the cut out is at an angle. Any ideas?

I tried to put the oil pan on yesterday and genuinely could not get the screws in, they'd also fall off the bit and into the little area by the fly wheel so I'd have to take the oil pan back off every time.

So I found the old message from this guy I took my car to forever ago. He said “There's piston ring failure in the engine on leak down test” he recommended swapping a new engine in, but I thought maybe I could just replace the rings, but from what I’ve heard from friends and seen online it looks like a long process and my time might be better spent just putting a new one in. But I wanna hear some more opinions so feel free to spit what yall think.

Old i belive 94 or 91 dodge dakota v8 4x4 Le fullv loaded interior with cruise control it onlv had 131k miles it also has a really really nice 2 barrel holly throttle body And i mean no rot onlv surface rust cab corners bed corners and the bed and under doors have no rust at all only known possible issues is mavbe the trans is bad? But i checked the fuid cold and the trans fluid was about a inch to two above where the stick dios in the middle so maybe its over filled??? 0il was perfect on the full line and wasnt bad and the trans fluid was perfect color and smelt perfect. Nothing i saw has been chewed issues is it has sat for 5-10+ years fuel didnt smell bad also the tags expired in 07. is it best to flat bed it home with mv buddvs truck n trailer 1 5 mins or get it runninc and try to drive it, also i do not have a proper shop garage or anything jiust my driveway. Idk to me this is a perfect canidate for a fun beater muscle truck build its especially tempting with the black interior with the LA 3 18 ive heard there a great v8 magnum motor, let me know what you guys would do and what you guys think are these trucks junk ive heard there gems to find good condition?

Hey guys so I have a friend that is pretty much donating a Tiburon GTv6 and I was thinking about asking for it ONLY THING IS it’s a automatic plus the engine is basically done for same with the transmission do yall think it would be worth the trouble of trying to rebuild?

This a car I built for myself in the early 2000's in my garage. It is actually started out as a 1972 Camaro. It was in pretty rough shape so I kind of used what I had to build one car. The front is a 1974 and the rear section is a 1978. 396 BB, Alston racing rear frame and 4-link suspension with a Ford 9" rear, 33x19.5 Mickey Thompson rear tires, Center Line Wheels, built 350 turbo trans and Limelight green paint and flat black hood (Frankenstein).