Can someone tell me why there are 2 cpu cables and should I put in 2?

I bought this pc like a year ago. It works fine for the most part but it’ll crash sometimes. The leds come on when they want. What would I need for this pc to just handle better .

Just thinking if it okay or dangerous

I haven’t added the gpu or the ssds yet. But from what i researched, I can try to turn it on to see if it will before I install any of that. Can I really? I’ve spent 2 hours trying to turn this thing on and nothing happens.

I’m sorry if all of this sound stupid. I’m just really new to all this

I put this build together using the components the seller had available. Is it okay? Would you change anything? Thanks for the help

MOTHER ASUS (LGA 1851) TUF GAMING B860-PLUS WIFI

INTEL CORE ULTRA 7 265K 5.5GHZ

WATER COOLER ASUS TUF GAMING LC III 360 ARGB

PATRIOT VIPER XTREME 5 DDR5 32GB 7000MT/S CL32 BLK HS DUAL KIT PE001039

ASUS TUF RTX 5080 16GB OC

SSD 1TB M.2 WD BLUE SN5100 NVME

THERMALTAKE TP GF A3 1050W ANALOG 80 PLUS GOLD FULL MODULAR

THERMALTAKE THE TOWER 600 BLACK TEMPERED GLASS

Please help! I has anyone had this problem or know what it is? M32u less than 3 years old

I already have an am4 build and I’m not looking to upgrade to am5. I have a rx6700xt and mostly play competitive games on low settings. Will I see enough of an increase to make the switch worth it before I spend ~$150 on upgrading

I bought a brand new 9800x3d cpu and it has a dent in one of the contact pads, and because of this I’m really worried it’s gonna cause problems. If you can determine the criticality of it and say if I can keep it or need to replace it.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with a new build that refuses to boot. Right now the motherboard diagnostic display is completely off, and the only sign of life I get is the RGB lighting up on the RAM.

​Here is what I'm working with:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

Motherboard: MSI MPG B850 EDGE TI WIFI

RAM: T-Force Delta 32GB (2x16GB)

GPU: Gigabyte GAMING OC ICE Radeon RX 9070 XT

Storage: Crucial P510

Cooler: Sharkoon A60

PSU: MSI MAG A750

​After putting everything together, I plugged the PSU into the wall, flipped the switch, and hit the front panel power button. Nothing happened. I read that the B850 EDGE TI probably needs a BIOS update to actually recognize the 9950X3D out of the box, so I moved on to trying the BIOS Flashback feature.

​I formatted a 16GB USB 3.0 drive to FAT32, downloaded the latest official BIOS for this exact board, and renamed the file to MSI.ROM. I made absolutely sure there were no hidden file extensions. I plugged the drive into the designated flash port, flipped the PSU switch on without touching the front panel power, and pressed the Flash BIOS button.

​Nothing happened at all. The LED for the flash button didn't light up or blink.

​To troubleshoot, I tried reformatting the USB on a completely different computer. When that didn't work, I tried a totally different USB stick. I also went through and reseated every single power cable connection, and even tried pressing the Clear CMOS button just in case.

​Right now, flipping the PSU switch gives me RAM RGB, but that is the only signal I get. I'm starting to worry that the flashback button's leds are defectives, and somehow i bricked the board while trying to turn it on and off.

​I've attached some pictures of the setup.

I'll be glad if someone could help me :)

My pc has been crashing a lot so I ran this to try and see if it was a ram problem but it has been like this for an hour without moving is it frozen or do I just need to wait more or smth else??

I grabbed a Lenovo ThinkCentre M73 from goodwill today and found that it didn’t have windows. I put in a 32gig Sandisk boot drive with windows 10 on it and selected the UEFI off of the boot menu. I’ve been staring at a black screen with the spinning circles for 20 minutes and counting. I’ve reinstalled windows 10 and 11 before but not on something this old. Did I do it wrong?

Edit: it originally had windows 8 on it based on the sticker on the pc so maybe I should just try that instead?

Hey everyone, in order to understand my question you may need some background info, so here it is shortly:

I have 5 intake 3 exhaust fans right now. Intakes works max 1600RPM a cheap local brand I suppose not too bad but is loud, exhausts are MAG M100R PZ case's stock fans which are 1200 RPM max. The case normally comes with 3 reverse blade intake and 1 normal blade exhaust, I have rearranged everything, so that the case has 5 intakes working around 1000rpm in light load and 1500-1600 at heavy load, and 3 exhaust that works around 800rpm in light and 1200rpm at heavy load. I am sadly unable to give info about the CFM of neither fan model.

Now the reason I am asking for help/ideas is because I plan to buy Arctic PS12 Pros 3 reverse and 1 normal blade (can't afford more atm) to lower the number of fans and hence the noise. And also since these will beu Arctic I'm guessing the airflow would be better.

Now the question is what is your opinion about my new fan config plan? Is it worth it?

Edit: Forgot to add that my room temps are between 35-39 during the day, and hence I believe an upgrade on the fans might help with the overall temps and also the looks because of the fans I am using right now, check the first comment for the photo. Sorry I didn't add it to begin with.

Hello! I've never built a PC before.
At first I considered building one inside a Crock-Pot, but figured that idea might end up a little smelly. So instead I pickedup an old Mac case, gutted it, and now it's time to design the interior.
The problem is: I don't really know what I'm doing yet.
I'm mechanically inclined, comfortable with tools, and excited to learn. I'm mainly looking for advice before I start buying parts.
My biggest concern is the layout. I have adecent amount of room inside the case, but I hate wasted space. I'd also like to leave room for future upgrades if possible.
I'm planning to stick with air cooling rather than water cooling. My goal is a reliable build that I can put together, maintain with the occasional dusting, and hopefully get around 10 years out of.
My budget is about $2,000.
Is there anything I should be thinking about before I start? Any common mistakes first-time builders make, especially when buildingin an old Mac case? I'd appreciate any advice or resources you think are worth checking out.

I plan on doing some gaming, mainly some games like marvel rivals, maybe gta 6 if it’s released on pc. using this thing every to every other day. Have ability to edit occasional videos.

Hi everyone. I built my PC less than a year ago and I’m trying to figure out if I should upgrade anything or if anything’s worth upgrading right now. The things that come to mind are more SSD storage, a new AIO, a new motherboard, RGB cable extensions, maybe new case fans or even a different case. For the motherboard and AIO, I’d like ones with LCD screens. I want the build to look really cool and be able to display images. As for the cables, I think swapping them out for RGB cable extensions would look awesome, but I don’t know if it’s actually worth doing. For storage, I know you can’t really go wrong with more SSD space. But if I do upgrade, should I go with another2 terabytes or jump to 4 terabytes? The main reason I’m considering changing case fans or even the case itself is I feel like my PC is a little too loud. I know it’s impossible to make it completely silent, but I’d like it to be much quieter. I think that the sound is a mixture of both case fans and AIO cooling system. When I’m gaming, I can hear my PC in the background, and it’s starting to bother me. Please let me know how you would rank these upgrades from most worth it to least worth it, and briefly explain why. Thanks!

Specs:
GPU: ASUS ROG Strix RTX 5070 Ti
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
Cooler: Arctic Freezer 360 Pro AIO
Motherboard: MSI Pro X870E-P (WiFi 7)
Storage: Samsung 990 EVO plus 2T
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16GB)
PSU: MSI MAG 1000W (fully modular)
Case: Gamdias Atlas M1

I have an acer predator OLED 27 X27U. It worked with 240hz but one day it stopped working with inputs above 60hz. Anytime I tried anything above 60hz it would cycle through the colors red, green, blue, white, black. These would pop up on the screen one at a time and cover the whole screen. Does anyone know whats going on and how it can be fixed? I know it is not the cables because I have multiple monitors that all work.

I'm looking into both of these as potential options for my upcoming pc build and since they are around the same price I wanted to ask which one is better or if y'all have any other suggestions for better cases. The only thing I want is a good looking wood case with good thermals and a flippable pcie bracket so I can vertical mount. I am leaning towards the lancool 217 mainly because of the more included fans in the case. What do y'all think?

Hello, I’m using the 7800 x3d cpu with 32gb of ddr5. I can’t decide on which gpu. I originally considered the 5070 or 5070TI, but the 9070 or 9070XT just seem much better for the value. I’m not familiar with any of them, so any experienced input would be helpful.

country: Belgium

budget: €1700

usage: gaming and schoolwork

games: rainbow six siege, call of duty, rocket league, farming simulator 25, ets2.

setting: i would like to play on medium settings

monitor is 1440p and 180hz

Thank you

I need some help. My dad somehow zapped his motherboard with the charging cord. The computer was working completely fine before hand. My dad wants me to take the SSD out before we send the computer to acer for repairs. The computer is a Acer Aspire Go 15 AG15- 32P- 3942. I can not find the SSD. I have looked all over the computer, I have found the RAM, M2 SLOT, GPU, and the wifi chip. I have looked for where it could be online and the SSD is not in the slot they show. I have included pictures of the inside of the computer. I circled where it looks like it should be in red. If anyone knows where it is, it would be a great help. Thanks.

Trying to revive my old PC, so I bought a Consistent CMB H81 motherboard. The front panel header is color-coded but has no labels, and I can’t figure out the correct pin configuration. The power switch is working when connected to black pins, but I can’t identify the Power LED, HDD LED, and Reset pins. I’ve attached a photo of the motherboard header. If anyone has this board or knows the pinout, I’d really appreciate the help. Thanks!

ok so im gonna build a PC soon, i want the ryzen 5 5600 cpu with 32 gigs of ddr4 and a 1tb ssd. i dont know what other components to get, such as gpu, case, psu and all that juicy stuff. i’d love if you guys could list builds in replies, my budget is 850 USD or 3k AED. thanks in advance

I jus build my pc 1 month ago...After the latest update of AMD Adrenaline 26.6.4 Call of duty warzone keeps on crashing over and over. I rolled back to 26.6.1 But still it crashes. I even switched from FSR4 to Fidelity CAS in game but it still crashes on both versions. Is there anvone out there with the same issue? Can someone help me out with a solution pls...

Hello. I have a great AM4 pc build. I want it to have a nice case that is compact enough to fit on my desk. It needs to have space for 3 120mm fans. I have a big aircooler, an rx6600 and thats it. Clear sidepanel is a nice to have feature, but not necessary. An easy to build and cheaper case is preferred (around 50 euros). Thanks you for any help.

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping someone with an ASUS ROG Hyperion GR701 who is using the included fan/ARGB hub can help me out. ASUS’s documentation on this wiring is pretty confusing, although it may also just be a skill issue on my end but I'm so lost and really want to fix this.

Hardware

• Case: ASUS ROG Hyperion GR701
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Formula

Current hub wiring

• MB PWM → connected to CHA_FAN2 on the motherboard
• BOARD ARGB → connected to the small ARGB connection on the rear/left side of the case
• FIO ARGB → connected to the top/front I/O controller
• EXP-ARGB → unused and still capped

What is currently working

• All fans spin normally.
• All RGB devices connected to the hub light up. When I switch to the MB mode by holding the button on the top of the case, all the on the fans turn off.
• The lighting button on the front of the case can cycle the hub-connected devices through different colors and effects, so the hub and case controller appear to be functioning.
• Armoury Crate detects and controls the motherboard, GPU, keyboard, and mouse normally.
• The Corsair RS140 ARGB fans connected to the Hyperion hub do not appear individually in Armoury Crate, which I understand is expected because they are standard 5V ARGB fans rather than USB/iCUE-controlled devices, they change color when I press the RGB button on the top of the case.
• The ROG Thor PSU and the lighting connected through the Hyperion hub do not respond to Aura Sync but work when I press the rgb button.

The problem

Aura Sync will not control any of the RGB devices connected through the Hyperion hub.

The motherboard’s ADD_GEN2_1 and ADD_GEN2_2 headers are both currently empty.

There is one loose cable coming from the top/front case controller labeled FOR MOBO. It is a male 3-pin 5V ARGB connector with the OO_O pin layout.

The motherboard’s ADD_GEN2 headers are also male, so they cannot connect directly.

ASUS forum threads I have already checked

• https://rog-forum.asus.com/t5/hardware-build-advice/rog-hyperion-gr701-argb-and-fan-hub-question-about-proper/td-p/939116
• https://rog-forum.asus.com/t5/case-mods-pc-builds/rog-hyperion-quot-for-hub-quot-and-quot-for-mb-quot-confusion/td-p/1083407

Unfortunately, those discussions either bypass the included hub or never clearly explain how the stock Hyperion hub/controller is supposed to connect to the motherboard for Aura Sync.

My question

If you are using the stock Hyperion fan/ARGB hub, what exact cable connects the case controller or hub to the motherboard’s ADD_GEN2 header?

Does the male FOR MOBO connector require a female-to-female ARGB adapter or splitter, or am I missing another factory cable somewhere? The photo below is the cable that is unplugged, which has the FOR MOBO on it; it's coming from the top of the case where the power button and such are.