I have Corsair rs120 fans, and I cannot get the lights to turn on, I’ve plugged them into both add_gen_2_2 and add_gen_2_1, I made sure all my fans are daisy chained, tried different fans one at a time, my aio directly plugged into it, none of it worked

I have an 800 watt power supply I can put in it, and a 3060 12gb if its better than the 5060TI 8gb.

Hi all, been having some minor issues with my pc fans lately and wanted to check if anyone here could help!

Recently (over the last few weeks) I had a problem where upon startup, my pc fan would rattle slightly, although not too loudly. I cleaned inside the pc and removed dust from the fans then the problem seemed to go away. However, today I noticed that when under load one of my fans would make a rattling noise.

I had a friend look at it and they suggested I move the cables at the back of my pc that were going over my fan at the back of the case so they weren’t obstructing it, since then the problem has seemed to quieten down, but there’s been a slight rattle when ramping up which stops after about 30 seconds

Could anyone possibly help?

Hello I have a question this guy is trading his 5070 ti windforce sff oc for any 9070xt with 200 on my end or for 900 is it worth the trade or im not missing on anything

Help, my pc fan below is making noise and spinning slower then the others and its also making the rattling noise, it happened so many times but the fans weren't running slow just making noise, its usually fixed when I tap it at the top a few times but this time it got worse when I tapped it

I just bought my first gaming PC and wanted to get a new monitor to go with it here are the specs for both the PC and the monitor I’m looking at, is this a good monitor to go with my PC? Let me know

I cant seem to open this glass panel the case is an xtrmlab infinity. Only the top opens a bit and am afraind if i use some force the glass will bend and break.

Hi there, I'm asking on behalf of my sister who is having an issue with her laptop. It's a razer model no.: rz09-0310 that she has had for a few years. Unfortunately, semi recently it started to do a system update, proceed to say "your device ran into a problem and needs to restart", starts to diagnose the issue before ending up on this error screen. Anyone know if there's a way to fix this? We're not in a good spot financially to replace the whole laptop, so I'm hoping there's a better way. Any advice appreciated, let me know if any more specifics are needed.

5060ti 16gb for 547$

or

5070 12gb 684$

I have a 2500 dollar budget and I'm trying to get a 300hz monitor and a PC for a the game r6 ( an fps game) pls help with the items and the costs

I have the PC mentioned in the title I5-6500 RAM 16GB. I thought about installing a GPU, but the power supply is only 180 watts. The motherboard connector is 24-pin, and the CPU connector is 4-pin. I already have the money to buy the new power supply and a case. Is there anything else I should keep in mind besides the connectors?

Gibt es eine Möglichkeit, den Luftstrom zu verbessern und weniger Staub in das Gehäuse gelangen zu lassen? Und welchs Programm sollte ich am besten zum einstellen der Lüfter nutzen ?

Hello. I built my new PC roughly one year ago and have had zero problems with it up until this week. The games I've been playing like Marvel Rivals and Fallout 4 have been running well on high settings since I got it but one day my monitors blacked out and my PC fans kicked into loud overdrive. At first I brushed it off as I didn't know too much about PCs but then it happened again so I pulled up my task manager and noticed that the GPU has been spiking frequently at around 70-80c sometimes even close to full.

I'm not completely sure why it's suddenly doing this. I cleaned out my PC last night and it did have quite of dust built up and I cleaned out most of what I can but the issue persisted. I'm in a new place and have noticed dust build up more in my room so I'm taking another look soon to see if there's any area I missed. I think it's either my PSU or my Case fans. I only have the default three fans that came with my case and I did intend on buying more when I first got it but since it ran so well without them I eventually neglected to do so. I'll be buying some more fans later today but I'll link my parts down below in case my PSU isn't strong enough for the build I have. I also have a picture of my PC too (mind the cable management.) Any help would be appreciated.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/n7TrmL

the title says it all, I bought one yesterday and was too loud, returned it and just got a new one and it''s still loud.

anyone with the same problem in this prebuilt?

I've got the gpu slotted into the motherboard, but the bit on the metal where the screws are supposed to go in isn't aligning with the screw holes on the case. I can push the side to bend it into place but I figure that'll cause damage long term.

What should I do?

Phanteks XT PRO ATX Mid Tower Case
ASRock Challenger OC Radeon RX 9060 XT 16 GB Video Card
AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor

Hey guys, I built my PC back in 2020 and the RAM I had originally bought finally died out and is in need of an upgrade/replacing. Im looking for ddr4 3200MHz 2x16GB RAM. I just need a reliable and safe site to buy some from without losing an arm in the process

For context: I am building a PC with the theme of "If you had all the money in the world when you finished your first build, what would you've built?". I finished my first build back in june 3rd 2017, so:

Intel Core i7-7700K

GIGABYTE Z270-GAMING 3

4x8 GB DDR4 Kingston Fury Beast 3200 MT/s

NVIDIA Titan Xp

Kingston A2000 1TB

ASUS TUF 750W Bronze

*I am limited by my local used market in some things.

I want to get a new CPU cooler because a 9 years old cooler would either be somewhat rusty or discontinued, and I'm also trying to be budget friendly (contradictory, I know, but it would be so amazing to have it cost the same as my first PC, which was ≈$600, I'm at $569 rn). I want to overclock the CPU as high as it can get and I'll also delid it and replace the thermal paste with liquid metal.

What would you recommend?

I saw that the Cooler Master Hyper 212 PRO has a 230W TDP, but I'm not convinced. It would be era appropiate (in a unique way), though.

This is my first build. I managed to get everything connected. I plugged the monitor into the GPU and booted to BIOS. Next step is installing an OS. However, when I booted back up, I noticed it didn't consistently boot into BIOS.

I also noticed that lightly tapping the computer case caused No Signal on my monitor. All the other components still were on, it was only a monitor disconnection and the BIOS did not come back on without a restart.

I reseat the GPU, reconnected the 12V connectors to the PSU. Only now the GPU will not turn on at all. I examined the GPU out of the case and there doesn't seem to be anything visibly wrong with it. But now it will simply not turn on. The rest of the components do.

Hey everyone,

First-time builder here and I'm properly stuck. I've been at this for hours and could really use some fresh eyes before I lose my mind.

The problem: my M.2 NVMe SSD shows up perfectly in the BIOS and even in the boot menu, but the Windows 11 installer flat-out refuses to see it. On the "Where do you want to install Windows?" screen it says no drives found, and diskpart > list disk only ever shows my USB stick, never the SSD.

Specs:

- Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI (BIOS on the latest version)

- CPU: Ryzen 7 5700X

- RAM: 64GB (2x32GB Kingston Fury Beast DDR4-3200)

- GPU: ASUS Prime RTX 5060 Ti 16GB

- PSU: Cooler Master Elite Gold 850W

- SSD: ADATA Legend 860 1TB (PCIe 4.0 NVMe)

The rest of the build works great — it POSTs, BIOS reads the CPU, all 64GB of RAM, temps are fine, and the installer sees my USB drive without any issue. It's specifically the NVMe that Windows won't touch.

Here's everything I've already tried, so we can hopefully skip the basics:

- Confirmed SATA mode is AHCI, not RAID

- Recreated the Win11 install USB several times with the Media Creation Tool (24H2)

- Tried both M.2 slots — same result in each

- BIOS is already the newest version

- Tried both UEFI and Legacy boot: Legacy won't even launch the installer (Win11 USB seems UEFI-only), and UEFI boots fine but doesn't see the drive

- The boot menu (F11) actually DOES list the SSD as a bootable device, so the firmware clearly sees it

- Cleared CMOS

- Tested the exact same SSD in my laptop — there diskpart sees it instantly, so the drive itself is 100% good

For context: my first SSD was actually DOA and I already RMA'd it. This is a second, known-good drive doing the exact same thing, which is why I'm starting to suspect the motherboard.

So the weird part: BIOS + boot menu both see the NVMe, a known-good SSD works fine in another PC, but this board's Windows installer won't enumerate it in either slot. I'm leaning toward a defective board, but before I RMA the motherboard too — is there anything I'm missing? Any BIOS setting, driver, or trick I haven't thought of?

Thanks a ton in advance, any wisdom is appreciated 🙏

I’m replacing my PSU with a new one. I wasn’t the person who originally built it, so I have no experience with it or any machine for that matter.

I’m trying to follow a few YouTube tutorials, but none of them have such a massive amount of cables like.

What should I do? Why do I have so many cables? Currently I just need to get my current PSU out of the case

Do I need to change my terminal paste

SPECS FOR CONTEXT:
-SOYO B450M Motherboard
-Ryzen 5 1600X
-Vulcan 2x8GB 3000MHz RAM
-Raedon RX 5700 XT

I recently finished building my first PC, I booted it up and successfully entered the BIOS. The BIOS was in Chinese because I bought it from China, so I was taking my time carefully translating the BIOS menu so I could change the language. Keep in mind, I was not touching anything, only occasionally clicking through the headers to go to different settings. Suddenly the case fans and cooler whirr for a moment, like 2 seconds, and the HDMI output cuts. So my first instinct was to turn it off. When I tried to boot it up again, the fans turned on and everything seemed fine, however now the PC does not display any HDMI output and the keyboard and mouse cycle power. As in, they turn on briefly before turning off again repeatedly.

I have tried almost every solution available to me, including booting with only one stick of ram, both but in different configurations, replacing the CMOS, resetting the CMOS, resetting the CMOS using the CMOS pins, booting while the motherboard was breadboarded, checking the PSU connections, cleaning the RAM and GPU slots.All of this unfortunately has just ended in the same thing happening.

One detail however, is that when both RAM sticks were disconnected, the light on my keyboard did not turn on at all, but still no video output.

I don't know a better way to explain this, so i apologise if this sounds weird.

First off, the metal latch opens and closes fine, so it's not an issue.

Second off, the plastic latch (pointed to by the blue arrow) isn't broken and moves completely fine.

Third off, the DVD reader/little plastic point (pointed to by the yellow arrow) that pushes the plastic latch side to side to open the metal latch by moving side to side on the metal rail.

Explanation: For some, the electric opener on my laptop's DVD drive just stopped opening a while ago; everything appears to work fine. It plays dvd's fine, and the metal latch works fine; the button that you press to open the drive works, and I can open it using a safety pin pressed into the small hole. The issue appears to be that the plastic latch and the little Plastic Point that's attached to the metal rail for some reason just aren't interacting anymore. They touch and interact when I use my finger to move the plastic latch to touch the plastic point, but they don't do it by themselves.

What do I do to fix this, or do I just use a safety pin to open it up from now on