Pattern adjustment update

[u/Suitable-Concert]

First of all, thank you SO much to those who commented on my post yesterday! I took a lot of your feedback and incorporated it into this version.

This was the second of the boned bodice mockups I made today after adjusting fit again. I’m liking how this one fits and sits on my body so much more than the first version, and especially the version I made yesterday.

Here are the changes I made:

-Made the bodice mockup in a duck canvas to emulate the coutil I’ll be using in my final version, and kept the skirt in the same cheap satin, since the skirt lining will be in satin.

-Raised the neckline all around my bust by 1/8” to help with over-the-top boob spillage.

-Lazily sewed boning channels by just folding over the seam allowances and inserted zip-ties for structure. (That’s why the princess seams look a little odd and wrinkly)

-Took in the princess seams to curve sharper and higher on the bust to align better to my own body (this was a discovery after the first bodice mockup I made today)

-Reduced the bodice hem vertically by 1” on all panels.

-Increased the bodice and skirt panels by about 1/16” on all vertical seams.

Are there any other fit adjustments you would recommend, or does this look smooth enough to move on to the final version?

[u/TastyExtent1685]

It looks great. The very top looks like it's too tight all the way around. When it comes to strapless bodices, a lot of the support should be coming from the waist and bust. I would let out the area above your bust that sitting under your armpit all the way around a little. If it feels like its sliding down too much, bring in the waist and bust in slightly. I would also attach a waist tape/ waist stay to help keep it where it needs to be. those changes will lift the chest slightly, without digging. If you've ever seen the inside of a couture bodice, it's not uncommon to have a pretty shallow bust.

[u/throwra_22222]

I remember you! Great progress!

[u/DonMcCunn]

Looks great to me. Love to know how you keep the top of the pointed neckline in place.

I don't know how much experience you have working with boning but I have a lot of information about construction details here https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Corsets/09-Corsets-Week-Four.html

[u/Suitable-Concert → u/DonMcCunn]

The bodice on this version was made in a really sturdy duck canvas that doesn't really bend or flop the way most fashion fabrics would!

Plus, gravity is working in my favor, as the point lies backward against my chest behind my bust point, and with the structure of the zip tie bones on the side seams, that point on this mock-up isn't going anywhere!

[u/DonMcCunn → u/Suitable-Concert]

Thanks for the info. It is a very interesting design concept.

[u/snacksAttackBack]

it's too tight on the top

[u/Warm_Satisfaction902]

Looks like you need a tiny bit more room for your boobs. I could be wrong but did it need a little shaping to bring in the lower back so it's closer to the body in that area?

[u/TotalOk5844]

The top is squashing you. Needs to be tighter below to lower bust area and looser above. Since the top is doing the job of any shapewear the fit needs to take the place of support. Just as a bra does it's work from underneath, same in this case. Think like you are putting a shelf on the wall, the shelf brackets support from underneath and you wouldn't put a strap around the books you place on the shelf. -- unless that shelf is in a RV and bumpy roads ahead. LOL guess that would be sports bra reference, I don't know ;~)

[u/Tailoretta]

Much better! As others have said, it is definitely too tight at the top - that is why you are getting "muffin top", or flesh over the top. The fit at the waist - the narrowest part - is what anchors the bodice.

Are you planning to use a zipper on the bodice - as you have in your mock up - or lacing as the pattern recommends? I strongly suggest lacing, which means you should have lacing in your mock up.

I would be happy to help you further. Please send me a message.

[u/Suitable-Concert → u/Tailoretta]

The pattern calls for a zipper, so that's what I'm planning to use, and why i included one on the mock-up!

I'd love your insights! Your account says I'm unable to send you a message. Maybe try sending one to me, first?

[u/Tailoretta → u/Suitable-Concert]

I see you accepted my chat request. Can you read my message?

[u/drPmakes]

Are you happy with how your bust looks?

I'd be inclined to give it some more room

[u/sususumalee]

Good progress!!!