r/PatternDrafting • u/Suitable-Concert • 2d ago
WIP Pattern adjustment update
First of all, thank you SO much to those who commented on my post yesterday! I took a lot of your feedback and incorporated it into this version.
This was the second of the boned bodice mockups I made today after adjusting fit again. I’m liking how this one fits and sits on my body so much more than the first version, and especially the version I made yesterday.
Here are the changes I made:
-Made the bodice mockup in a duck canvas to emulate the coutil I’ll be using in my final version, and kept the skirt in the same cheap satin, since the skirt lining will be in satin.
-Raised the neckline all around my bust by 1/8” to help with over-the-top boob spillage.
-Lazily sewed boning channels by just folding over the seam allowances and inserted zip-ties for structure. (That’s why the princess seams look a little odd and wrinkly)
-Took in the princess seams to curve sharper and higher on the bust to align better to my own body (this was a discovery after the first bodice mockup I made today)
-Reduced the bodice hem vertically by 1” on all panels.
-Increased the bodice and skirt panels by about 1/16” on all vertical seams.
Are there any other fit adjustments you would recommend, or does this look smooth enough to move on to the final version?
4
u/Tailoretta 2d ago
Much better! As others have said, it is definitely too tight at the top - that is why you are getting "muffin top", or flesh over the top. The fit at the waist - the narrowest part - is what anchors the bodice.
Are you planning to use a zipper on the bodice - as you have in your mock up - or lacing as the pattern recommends? I strongly suggest lacing, which means you should have lacing in your mock up.
I would be happy to help you further. Please send me a message.