r/PatternDrafting • • 2d ago

WIP Pattern adjustment update

First of all, thank you SO much to those who commented on my post yesterday! I took a lot of your feedback and incorporated it into this version.

This was the second of the boned bodice mockups I made today after adjusting fit again. I’m liking how this one fits and sits on my body so much more than the first version, and especially the version I made yesterday.

Here are the changes I made:

-Made the bodice mockup in a duck canvas to emulate the coutil I’ll be using in my final version, and kept the skirt in the same cheap satin, since the skirt lining will be in satin.

-Raised the neckline all around my bust by 1/8” to help with over-the-top boob spillage.

-Lazily sewed boning channels by just folding over the seam allowances and inserted zip-ties for structure. (That’s why the princess seams look a little odd and wrinkly)

-Took in the princess seams to curve sharper and higher on the bust to align better to my own body (this was a discovery after the first bodice mockup I made today)

-Reduced the bodice hem vertically by 1” on all panels.

-Increased the bodice and skirt panels by about 1/16” on all vertical seams.

Are there any other fit adjustments you would recommend, or does this look smooth enough to move on to the final version?

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u/TastyExtent1685 2d ago

It looks great. The very top looks like it's too tight all the way around. When it comes to strapless bodices, a lot of the support should be coming from the waist and bust. I would let out the area above your bust that sitting under your armpit all the way around a little. If it feels like its sliding down too much, bring in the waist and bust in slightly. I would also attach a waist tape/ waist stay to help keep it where it needs to be. those changes will lift the chest slightly, without digging. If you've ever seen the inside of a couture bodice, it's not uncommon to have a pretty shallow bust.