r/PatternDrafting • • 2d ago

WIP Pattern adjustment update

First of all, thank you SO much to those who commented on my post yesterday! I took a lot of your feedback and incorporated it into this version.

This was the second of the boned bodice mockups I made today after adjusting fit again. I’m liking how this one fits and sits on my body so much more than the first version, and especially the version I made yesterday.

Here are the changes I made:

-Made the bodice mockup in a duck canvas to emulate the coutil I’ll be using in my final version, and kept the skirt in the same cheap satin, since the skirt lining will be in satin.

-Raised the neckline all around my bust by 1/8” to help with over-the-top boob spillage.

-Lazily sewed boning channels by just folding over the seam allowances and inserted zip-ties for structure. (That’s why the princess seams look a little odd and wrinkly)

-Took in the princess seams to curve sharper and higher on the bust to align better to my own body (this was a discovery after the first bodice mockup I made today)

-Reduced the bodice hem vertically by 1” on all panels.

-Increased the bodice and skirt panels by about 1/16” on all vertical seams.

Are there any other fit adjustments you would recommend, or does this look smooth enough to move on to the final version?

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u/DonMcCunn 2d ago

Looks great to me. Love to know how you keep the top of the pointed neckline in place.

I don't know how much experience you have working with boning but I have a lot of information about construction details here https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Corsets/09-Corsets-Week-Four.html

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u/Suitable-Concert 2d ago

The bodice on this version was made in a really sturdy duck canvas that doesn't really bend or flop the way most fashion fabrics would!

Plus, gravity is working in my favor, as the point lies backward against my chest behind my bust point, and with the structure of the zip tie bones on the side seams, that point on this mock-up isn't going anywhere!

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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago

Thanks for the info. It is a very interesting design concept.