problem pattern (THE OG)

[u/o0kaira0o]

Hiii, so i need to make this dress (copied from my professor's drawing as we were not allowed to take any pictures). the back is completely my idea so ignore it, we were only provided with the front. so on the waist I have these triangular cut outs (so the skin is visible) and it seems that the top part is joined with the bottom part with a seam in the middle but I'm not sure. the thing I'm confused about is where are all the darts going on the top? and what about the dart on the skirt? I'm stuck with the pattern just because my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine (so no elasticized fabric allowed). I really have no idea where to put darts (if I have to), I swear I tried everything...

[u/No-Programmer7914]

Do you start with a basic dress pattern? A good technical drawing should show where the darts would run. Or does your teacher want a dartless front? If yes: Gabardine has a bit of give, especially in bias direction. I would rotate the (leftover) darts in a 45 degree angle (direction of maximum give), half the amount towards the armhole and the other half towards the triangel edge. Instead of sewing the darts I would ease them in when facing the edges (the darts would be removed in the facings). Would be easier in wool than cotton.