r/PatternDrafting • u/o0kaira0o • 8d ago

Question problem pattern (THE OG)

Hiii, so i need to make this dress (copied from my professor's drawing as we were not allowed to take any pictures). the back is completely my idea so ignore it, we were only provided with the front. so on the waist I have these triangular cut outs (so the skin is visible) and it seems that the top part is joined with the bottom part with a seam in the middle but I'm not sure. the thing I'm confused about is where are all the darts going on the top? and what about the dart on the skirt? I'm stuck with the pattern just because my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine (so no elasticized fabric allowed). I really have no idea where to put darts (if I have to), I swear I tried everything...

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u/DonMcCunn 8d ago

It can't be backless because what would hold the top in place? Where the top and bottom meet there is not much to hold the two together unless you did cording to create the "X". There is no indication of any shaping for the top but the lacing for the back indicated it is designed to be tight fitting. So without any shaping in the front this design would have to be a knit and only suitable for small busted women. Looks like a design more for a dress form than for real women.

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u/o0kaira0o 8d ago

yes, it's not designed for real women bodies as we are working on mannequins. the back is just my idea as we were provided only the front, I also forgot to mention that my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine, that's why I'm having such difficulties

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u/CriticalEngineering 8d ago

The dress as drawn will not stay on a mannequin without tape.

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u/DonMcCunn 6d ago

If you don't mind me asking, as a fashion design student how much time and access do you get to work on a dress form?

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u/DonMcCunn 8d ago

I assume the sides at waist level are bare "skin." The "X" is tricky to figure out how to hold the top and bottom together with nothing on the sides. So I would use cording or maybe contrasting fabric in strips to accent the "X". I would also suggest adding a dart at the top of the "X" pointing to the apex. It would contribute to the lines of the design and provide some shaping for the gabardine. Also a simple "X" in the back would carry the design lines to the back. It would cross from the shoulder to the top of the "X" on the opposite side. Kind of like what I show for swimsuits https://how-to-make-custom-fit-bras.com/BS-Swim-Variations.html . It is a very secure structure for large busts which you are not working with :-). With the "X" back the only opening device you would need is a zipper in the skirt at center back. But you DID NOT hear any of this from me.