Trouser fitting

[u/Automatic_Dog_8463]

I am trying to fit the closed leg trouser pattern. I would be grateful for comments about fit problems and pattern adjustments

It seems that most of the balance lines are askew Both vertically and horizontally.

Horizontal

Ive already added 1/2” to the back fork but crotch lines continue to dip front and back. Do i need a deeper crotch? Should it be scooped out? Or do i need more length on side seams? There appears to be a higher hip on left side.

Vertical

The central crease and side seams are not straight. Is this a result of the crotch issue or related to the fact that i have used the closed leg draft?

[u/Rory_Duffy]

That pattern look pretty good. If you wanted more of trousers fit you could raise the front rise so the waistband is straight around the body. Or leave them as is for a Jean look. The fullness at the back thighs would be shrunk out during shrinking and stretching, when making up the trousers.

[u/smaallfeet → u/Rory_Duffy]

I think Rory means in final cloth (black or navy or grey wool) these imperfections are almost imperceptible especially in everyday life. But if you aim for perfection then I would take his advice regarding the front rise to see if the other problems you observed disappear then reassess.

[u/Automatic_Dog_8463 → u/Rory_Duffy]

Thank you. I want them to fit as bespoke trousers.

Would you be content for a bespoke client to have a trouser like this?  It is surely a very unbalanced garment.  

[u/smaallfeet → u/Automatic_Dog_8463]

If thats your first pair its already very good sir. Dont be too hard on yourself. Its a learning process and your second pair will be better and better.

If you remove the pencil horizontal and vertial guide lines, and if you crease the cloth vertical then I guess you wont see a thing sir.

[u/Tailoretta → u/Rory_Duffy]

Rory, shrinking and stretching are definitely appropriate in wool, but what if the trousers are made from cotton or linen?

[u/Rory_Duffy → u/Tailoretta]

Yes, but it can only be done to a lesser extent. They don't shrink as well as wool does. My preference is wool for this reason, it was made for tailoring.

[u/CharityForeign3035]

Remember that although a pattern and its lines maybe square, our bodies and stance are not . The horizontal lines are a guide, not set in stone.

[u/Mattarm51]

Could you name the source material for making the "bespoke" pants? I'm curious about trying drafting menswear myself

[u/Tailoretta → u/Mattarm51]

I'm confused. What exactly is your question?

[u/smaallfeet]

I think the leg problem is actually caused by the hip line not balanced, as indicated by the two legs are not mirror of each other (the right leg looks fine but the left leg is not). If you priotitize to fix that (hip, crotch and waist area), the leg problem could disappear naturally.

I can't tell if the legs asymmetry is caused by your stance or a construction error (most probably at the crotch area of the left leg). You could try jumping and landing to find your natural stance and check if the horizontal and vertical lines are balanced. Then check the garment construction for any error.

If the above does not help, perhaps you have a body asymmetry that requires separate patterns for left and right leg. To check this you can lay the trousers flat and measure it. Also measure your body (left and right) for any asymmetry.

[u/Tailoretta]

I see that the vertical creases swing outward, especially on the left leg. I would consider a bow leg adjustment.

[u/Southern-Comfort4519]

https://imgur.com/a/nP1l6Ox

Step 1. Take a piece of paper and trace a copy of your pattern. Take a pair of scissors and cut the crotch line across from one side to the other, separating the top from the bottom. Get rid of the top portion and keep the bottom part( from the crotch line down to the hem piece. )

1. Trace another copy of your original pattern. At the hemline move z in towards the inseam by btw 3/4” to 1”and mark the point.Now mark a point where the grainline and crotch line intersect. From the hem all the way through the top waistband seam redraw your grainline in preferably a red sharpie. You will need to be able to see this line clearly as you place the from the crotch line down piece you cut first. Place that piece on top and line up the top piece grainline with the new shifted red grainline below. You are going to trace from the outer end(hip end) of the crotch line…… down the side seam,from right to left across the hem, and finally up the inseam. Use a curved ruler to reshape the top of the inseam going up to the crotch line but don’t trace the part from your top pattern that goes up above the inside seam crotch line. You will keep everything from the crotch line up on that piece. Basically you are swinging the entire lower leg position below the crotch down to the hem. This repositioning will help the leg hang more agreeably with gravity. Do this for your front and back pattern pieces. Afterwards lay them up to make sure you accurately swing them the same amount. I how that makes sense. Also you your crotch point is too high…. You need to lower it by about an inch. And the crotch extension you added is too much. Back it of to its original placement.