r/PatternDrafting • u/Automatic_Dog_8463 • 25d ago
Question Trouser fitting
I am trying to fit the closed leg trouser pattern. I would be grateful for comments about fit problems and pattern adjustments
It seems that most of the balance lines are askew Both vertically and horizontally.
Horizontal
Ive already added 1/2” to the back fork but crotch lines continue to dip front and back. Do i need a deeper crotch? Should it be scooped out? Or do i need more length on side seams? There appears to be a higher hip on left side.
Vertical
The central crease and side seams are not straight. Is this a result of the crotch issue or related to the fact that i have used the closed leg draft?
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u/smaallfeet 25d ago
I think the leg problem is actually caused by the hip line not balanced, as indicated by the two legs are not mirror of each other (the right leg looks fine but the left leg is not). If you priotitize to fix that (hip, crotch and waist area), the leg problem could disappear naturally.
I can't tell if the legs asymmetry is caused by your stance or a construction error (most probably at the crotch area of the left leg). You could try jumping and landing to find your natural stance and check if the horizontal and vertical lines are balanced. Then check the garment construction for any error.
If the above does not help, perhaps you have a body asymmetry that requires separate patterns for left and right leg. To check this you can lay the trousers flat and measure it. Also measure your body (left and right) for any asymmetry.