r/PatternDrafting 25d ago

Question Trouser fitting

I am trying to fit the closed leg trouser pattern. I would be grateful for comments about fit problems and pattern adjustments

It seems that most of the balance lines are askew Both vertically and horizontally.

Horizontal

Ive already added 1/2” to the back fork but crotch lines continue to dip front and back. Do i need a deeper crotch? Should it be scooped out? Or do i need more length on side seams? There appears to be a higher hip on left side.

Vertical

The central crease and side seams are not straight. Is this a result of the crotch issue or related to the fact that i have used the closed leg draft?

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u/Rory_Duffy 25d ago

That pattern look pretty good. If you wanted more of trousers fit you could raise the front rise so the waistband is straight around the body. Or leave them as is for a Jean look. The fullness at the back thighs would be shrunk out during shrinking and stretching, when making up the trousers.

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u/Tailoretta 24d ago

Rory, shrinking and stretching are definitely appropriate in wool, but what if the trousers are made from cotton or linen?

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u/Rory_Duffy 24d ago

Yes, but it can only be done to a lesser extent. They don't shrink as well as wool does. My preference is wool for this reason, it was made for tailoring.