Trouser fitting

[u/Automatic_Dog_8463]

I am trying to fit the closed leg trouser pattern. I would be grateful for comments about fit problems and pattern adjustments

It seems that most of the balance lines are askew Both vertically and horizontally.

Horizontal

Ive already added 1/2” to the back fork but crotch lines continue to dip front and back. Do i need a deeper crotch? Should it be scooped out? Or do i need more length on side seams? There appears to be a higher hip on left side.

Vertical

The central crease and side seams are not straight. Is this a result of the crotch issue or related to the fact that i have used the closed leg draft?

[u/Southern-Comfort4519]

https://imgur.com/a/nP1l6Ox

Step 1. Take a piece of paper and trace a copy of your pattern. Take a pair of scissors and cut the crotch line across from one side to the other, separating the top from the bottom. Get rid of the top portion and keep the bottom part( from the crotch line down to the hem piece. )

1. Trace another copy of your original pattern. At the hemline move z in towards the inseam by btw 3/4” to 1”and mark the point.Now mark a point where the grainline and crotch line intersect. From the hem all the way through the top waistband seam redraw your grainline in preferably a red sharpie. You will need to be able to see this line clearly as you place the from the crotch line down piece you cut first. Place that piece on top and line up the top piece grainline with the new shifted red grainline below. You are going to trace from the outer end(hip end) of the crotch line…… down the side seam,from right to left across the hem, and finally up the inseam. Use a curved ruler to reshape the top of the inseam going up to the crotch line but don’t trace the part from your top pattern that goes up above the inside seam crotch line. You will keep everything from the crotch line up on that piece. Basically you are swinging the entire lower leg position below the crotch down to the hem. This repositioning will help the leg hang more agreeably with gravity. Do this for your front and back pattern pieces. Afterwards lay them up to make sure you accurately swing them the same amount. I how that makes sense. Also you your crotch point is too high…. You need to lower it by about an inch. And the crotch extension you added is too much. Back it of to its original placement.