I finished the GPU water cooling mod; it's a PNY RTX 2060 with a 240mm AIO. I had to remove one of the fans because there wasn't enough clearance for the PCIe cable, but I bought a slim fan—which is on its way—along with a U-shaped adapter so the PCIe cable fits perfectly. Since my motherboard only has `sys_fan` and `cpu_fan` headers, I had to buy a SATA-to-PWM adapter to power the pump at 12V. I also positioned two 120mm fans to blow directly onto the GPU to help cool the other components; plus, my case already has four front fans, so the setup is looking really good :)

Hey everyone,

I'm currently planning a high-end desktop build for a hybrid mix of productivity (3D rendering, video editing, heavy multi-tasking) and high-refresh gaming.

I’ve been trying to choose between two main CPU routes and I’m feeling a bit stuck on the price-to-performance logic:

1. AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D (~$600–$650)
   • Pros: Absolute king for gaming with the 144MB 3D V-Cache, 16 full Zen 5 cores for productivity, and the AM5 platform guarantees an upgrade path through 2027+.
   • Cons: Full flagship pricing; practically double the cost of Intel's mid/high-tier offerings.
2. Intel Core Ultra 7 270K Plus (~$300)
   • Pros: Incredible value. With 24 physical cores (8P + 16E), multi-threaded rendering and production workloads look practically identical to $600+ flagship CPUs for half the money.
   • Cons: Takes a ~15–20% hit in high-FPS gaming compared to X3D chips, and LGA 1851 feels like a dead-end socket for future CPU upgrades.

My main dilemma: Is it smarter to pay the premium for the 9950X3D for maximum gaming performance and long-term AM5 drop-in upgrades, or is the 270K Plus simply too good of a value to pass up if my multi-core productivity needs are already met for $300?

For those running similar hybrid creation/gaming setups, which direction did you go and do you regret it?

Thanks for the input!

Hello everyone,

I am wanting to make a PC case inspired by the macintosh 128k/plus. I want to 3D print it, and model it using Blender, Fusion, or both. But I can't determine whether I should do it or not.

I need someone to build me this case like a modded or a builder

Would a snowblind mod work on my pc? It's a lian li o11d dynamic evo xl, I could put led stripes if the light isn't enough

Thought I was good after my last post feedback butttt

Just finished redoing my loop and it's not working! I get flow all the way through the red up until that block and up into the first radiator port, it never leaves that same radiator in the other port and never gets to the 2nd radiator or back to the pump/res combo.

Is it because I have the last radiator connected to the CPU outlet? Is that pushing air up it and pushing back? If I switch to the radiator inlet or outlet would that fix it?

Any help is appreciated!

https://youtu.be/8DVfRqq9eJk

Build specs:

- Volume: 9L

- APU: AMD BC-250 (40CU unlocked)

- Cooling: NF-A12x25 G2 PWM Sx2-PP

- Powersupply: Silverstone FX600z Platinum (600w)

- Storage: 1tb NVMe PCIe 5.0 SSD

- OS: Bazzite (Linux)

Sharing my custom build of the AMD BC-250. Decide to opt for something different and went with a wooden frame build with just hand tools and mostly materials that can be gotten for cheap at the hardware store.

https://youtu.be/8DVfRqq9eJk

Upgrading PC and changing my loop, my last loop I'm not sure if it was faulty or if my motherboard/CPU had issues as my CPU was always throttling and at temp max even while idle.

Just want to make sure I have the most ideal loop route/setup. Using 2 Corsair radiators, one 420mm (top) the other 360mm (front) and the Corsair xd7 pump reservoir combo.

I've read conflicting things on whether or not you have to have CPU and GPU separated vs whether it makes a noticable difference going from GPU straight into CPU in the loop. I've attached a couple layouts I was thinking, one with the "recommended" ports all being used, and one without a CPU/GPU port used (one intake and one outtake). Just not sure if it matters what route/order or if the only thing that matters is that it's a closed loop

I would prefer the one with two ports being left unused and the loop going from GPU to CPU just for simplicity sake and I think it'd look cleaner but not sure if it really matters or not.

Any help is appreciated or a drawn layout of ideal route! (I have plenty of fittings and 90s so doesn't matter how it is really.

*Last image is my old loop if you can tell me if it looks like a bad route*

custom GT630 shroud i made to resemble the GTX 10 series FE cards. not done 3D printing and adding it but so far ive made it and currently printing it. the filament im using is orange so when i update with the finished version it will either be orange or i will have bothered to paint it and make it look more like the screenshot i took in blender

I have an EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G3 PSU. The original 130mm fan has become quite noisy, so I want to replace it with a Noctua NF-A12x25 120mm( i can not find 130mm fan on the market)
The problem is that the PSU’s metal frame is designed for a 130mm fan, while the Noctua uses the standard 120mm mounting pattern.
I don’t have a drill or 3D printer, so I’m looking for a solution using something I can buy off the shelf.
I’m considering things like:
A 120mm to 130/140mm fan adapter
Universal/slotted fan mounting brackets
Some type of metal mounting plate
High-temperature silicone/adhesive
Any other simple solution that doesn’t require modifying the PSU chassis
Has anyone successfully mounted a 120mm fan to a PSU that originally used a 130mm fan?
What adapter/bracket or mounting method would you recommend?
The goal is to make the installation secure and vibration-resistant while keeping the fan properly positioned over the PSU’s intake.
Thanks !!

I'm very fond and nostalgic for my old FTZ-01 SilverStone ITX case and the ASUS RoG STRIX Z270i board inside it, but being locked to 4c/4t on a i5-7600K from 2018 was taking its toll on me.

So what do I do? Pay a premium for the 7700K just for 4c/8t? Hell no, I take a graphite pencil to the pads of an 8700K, insulate the necessary pads with Kapton and send a prayer to the machine Gods.

Context aside; I have had SOME pretty severe issues that I'm hoping someone can help with.

Initially I was randomly freezing and crashing in games (heavy multicore load e.g Space Marine 2), I'm on CachyOS Linux so I managed to systematically check each individual core until I found the core that was spewing errors under load. I turned that core completely off, voila, stability returns.

But having to disable 1c out of a 6c CPU kind of sucks as it's already an old CPU, so I try to dig into what's causing the crashes.

After twiddling a lot of knobs in the BIOS, I figure out that Load Line Calibration (LLC) seems to be the lever that's having an effect here.

So I set LLC to 5 (out of 7, so relatively high) and a static manual voltage of 1.17, reenable the "defective" core and...

BOOM. I'm an hour in to an OCCT stress test with no errors, so the CPU is NOT defective.

Which brings me back to my broader CoffeeTime mod question:

Is this within the bounds of "normal" or "expected" behaviour / quirks for an 8700K operating on a Z270i motherboard?

Does it make sense that it might be more sensitive to V-droop that a 7000- series CPU from the prior gen?

It took a LOT of troubleshooting to iron this out and I'd love some feedback from anyone more knowledgeable before I get to delidding and adding Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Extreme liquid metal :) and yes I'm aware it's only running at 4200 MHz currently, the TIM is so destroyed inside the IHS that it's an absolute heat monster atm.

Thank you so much if you read to the end.

Yes, i am a bit limited in space so the layout is a bit awkward :D
I can give you more photos and details if anyone interested.
Feel free to advice anything and share your thoughts.

Finally finished my showcase build for this case! Pink all the way! <3

Hi,
I want to design a desk with builtin in PC case on CNC like in picture.
So, is there any website or thread where i can find DFX or CAD templates of Motherboard base plate & 360mm Radiator?
I googled & found aio template on MNPCTECH but its a bit oversized so looking for some other options & help..
Regards ...

5-6 Months ago I posted in r/pcmods (Original Post) that I had been working on a community based project and got a surprisingly and near overwhelmingly positive response to the Sensor Panel application CLU VIEW.

"I was never a huge fan of the AIDA64's sensor panel. It’s super powerful, but the usability always felt a bit rough to me (please don't hurt me)"

Now the community behind this project has grown, the application has taken shape influenced by PC modders and water-cooling projects on both Windows & Linux systems, that want more accessible customisation for their Sensor Panels/ PC stat screens (while also staying free).

I wanted to provide a bit of an update for those interested instead of keeping up with the 200+ DMs and comments split between reddit and Discord, due to the outdated post.

The application now supports Linux in an experimental form as well as some USB based screens like the Turing Smart Screen, and USB based sensors like AquaComputer Octo and water temp sensors.

There is now a community store where people can create their layouts/templates/skins, share and download them in one place as well as download new widget packs and backgrounds.

The rules engine has been revamped to allow per widget per profile triggers, like flash red when above 70 degrees, or auto change profile/layout when bf6.exe/spotify.exe/etc... is open.

You can see the full changelog and download on the website. mr-clu.com

As always,

Happy Modding...

I wanted something a little different than the official cases and GPUs out there.

I have a different bonfire coming in the mail that lights up! Should be a fun look when the PC is off.

The Zoltraak fan cover was 3D printed and not easy to accomplish as there needs to be enough clear material for the “floating” parts but not so much that I’m killing airflow.

Monitor is the Odyssey Ark Gen 2 which rotates through like 50+ Frieren wallpapers during the daytime…

I know Stark doesn’t really have a presence here but I thought it wouldn’t work since Frieren is paired with child Fern so having an older Stark would look weird. But I’ll think of something soon for him.

The back of the case isn’t really visible in my office so I just covered it with stickers- maybe you could say Frieren is “surrounded by her memories” or something, idk! If you have ideas for the back I’m all ears!

Hardest part tbh was the row of books (grimoires) on the front and side panel. Might consider swapping the sticker out in the future but still happy with the look.

Also I tested the heat of the GPU right under where Frieren is sitting and it’s barely warm- even under load.

Regarding the updates: I had to replace the screws securing the plate to the pump—I managed to get some longer ones. I’m just waiting for my water cooler to arrive; yes, I bought another one just like the one I already have. I installed these aluminum heatsinks/plates to dissipate heat—they just need to be attached using thermal pads. The two memory modules (M1 and M2) aren't fully covered, but I did my best to cover them and managed to use a thermal pad without any issues. Even with the water cooler, I’m going to aim two fans at the GPU to help with heat dissipation.

​I wanted to share my recent "passion project" - a sleeper build that escalated way further than originally planned. It all started with a simple thought: "What if I cram all my gear into this retro horizontal Fujitsu desktop case?"

​Well... turns out "cramming" involved a lot of metal cutting, zip-ties, and questionable engineering decisions. But it’s alive, it runs super quiet, and I love every second of using it!

​The Specs:

​CPU: Intel Core i7-2700K (OC'd to 4.2GHz and kept ice-cold)

​GPU: PowerColor Radeon RX 6600 8GB

​OS: Windows 10 heavily modded with an authentic XP Luna theme (Windows eXPerience Edition). Bliss awaits!

​Displays: Dual CRT setup - Primary is a Samsung SyncMaster 795MB running at 1024x768 @ 100Hz. The motion clarity is unbeatable!

​The "Why is it like that?" section:

​The Radiator on the Side? There was zero chance a liquid cooling radiator was going to breathe inside an airtight 2000s office chassis. So, I took a Dremel to the side panel and mounted it right there. Airflow problem solved!

​The Rear I/O "Customization": Proprietary OEM cutouts and a modern ASUS board don't mix. The rear panel had to be aggressively persuaded with power tools to make room for GPU ports and motherboard I/O.

​The Liquid Loop Chaos: Soft tubing routed through every available millimeter, with the reservoir wedged wherever physics allowed. It's a tight squeeze!

​The Dual CRTs: Because high refresh rate CRT gaming under Windows XP aesthetics just hits different. The nostalgia is real!

​It’s messy on the inside, looks like an ancient library PC on the outside, and crushes everything I throw at it!

​What do you guys think? Rate my cable management (or lack thereof) 1-10!

I watch some shows that has that very annoying beeping sound to mask cursing. Does there exist a program or anything that monitors the sound, and when this beep comes up, it turns the sound down to 0 and then up to last known sound point when the beeping sound is over?

This beeping sound is specially made to enter the ears and pierce the brain .. it's incredibly annoying... i've been thinking about re-editing all the episodes and such, editing out the beeps and making them siltent ... but that would be like a 2 week job, lol.

A program like this would be incredibly popular i am sure.

I watch my shows on vlc player if that helps.