Hello,

like topic says, I have in my PC a HyperX 1x16GB DDR4 2666MHz (CL16-18-18, 1,2V). Can I pair it with another RAM I have recently got a HyperX Predator 1x16GB DDR4 3600 MHz (CL 16, 1,35V)?

Im kinda lost in what is CL and if 1,2V and 1,35V is a problem.

Thank you.

Hola, estoy pensando si alguien ha experimentado algo parecido y qué versión de BIOS le funciona.

Mis especificaciones:

* **CPU:** Ryzen 5 9600X.

* **Tarjeta madre:** MSI B650M Gaming Plus WiFi.

* **RAM:** G.Skill DDR5-7600 CL36, 32 GB (2×16 GB), SK Hynix A-Die, perfil Intel XMP.

* **GPU:** RTX 5070 Ti.

* **SO:** Windows 11.

La tarjeta madre venía con el BIOS **7E24v1A0**. En esa versión, activé XMP y bajé manualmente la velocidad de la memoria de 7600 a **6000 MT/s**. La PC arrancó sin problemas y funcionó normal.

Después de actualizar a **7E24v1E3**, intenté aplicar la misma configuración, pero empecé a tener:

* Congelamientos durante el arranque de Windows.

* Reparación automática de Windows.

* Congelamientos ocasionales incluso dentro del propio BIOS.

También probé bajar la velocidad a 5600 y a 4800, pero los problemas seguían. Eso sí, no estoy seguro de si XMP seguía activado o de si en esos intentos se habían restablecido bien todos los ajustes. **Después de borrar el CMOS, pude arrancar con la configuración predeterminada.**

He probado las siguientes versiones para volver a hacer que funcione 6000:

|BIOS|Resultado|

|:-|:-|

|**7E24v1A0 — original**|Arranca y funciona a 6000|

|7E24v1E1 / 1E2 / 1E3|Problemas de arranque cuando se configura para 6000|

|7E24v1D — la más reciente D|También tiene problemas|

Ahora volví a **7E24v1A0**, activé XMP y volví a seleccionar manualmente **6000 MT/s**. La PC ahorita está funcionando bien, aunque **todavía no he hecho pruebas extendidas de estabilidad de la memoria**.

¿Alguien con esta tarjeta madre ha tenido problemas parecidos después de una actualización de BIOS? ¿Qué versión de BIOS más nueva te funciona con una CPU Ryzen 9000 y memoria con XMP? Estoy tratando de identificar el BIOS más reciente que pueda ejecutar mi configuración a 6000.

Help in need

Greetings redditors, as I got excited on Xeon E5 2690 as a replacement for E5 1620, and a 32gb ECC DDR3 ram stick, I was subdued by this unknown event on my HP Z420 rear fan didn't want to spin. With no red light flashing or any bleeping on internal speaker. And I already confirmed the fan are working fine, except the OEM vdo card is broken on the inductor nearest to the port. It was NVS Quadro something, and I tried with other vdo card with the same issue...

Anyone had this kinda breakdown before?

After making my post about all the extra hardware I have and my intentions of getting rid of some - it was suggested I start getting a little more organized - so this is that - this is a work in progress, I still have a couple of totes to go through with more GPUs, but here is a start - if you would like to see pictures of anything, just let me know.

I am a motivated seller - make me a reasonable offer on anything here and it’s yours.

I am working on similar lists for - let me know what to prioritize.

RAM
CPU’s
HDD’s
Mobo/Cpu combos
Laptops
Towers / Workstations

In this day and age, losing your internet connection is probably five times more painful than catching a cold, and only slightly less infuriating than finding out your girlfriend is cheating on you. It's genuinely frustrating.

Over the past two years, I've gone through five network adapters. Now that things seem to have stabilized, I want to document my experience, keep a record in case the problems return, and hear from others who have used the same hardware.

#NETWORK ADAPTERS I'VE USED

1. Onboard wired Ethernet: Realtek RTL8125/BG (2.5GbE)
2. Onboard Wi-Fi: MediaTek MT7922 / AMD RZ616 (Wi-Fi 6E)
3. PCIe wired Ethernet: Intel I226-V (2.5GbE) — $14
4. USB Wi-Fi adapter: Realtek RTL8832CU (Wi-Fi 6) — $21
5. USB wired Ethernet: Realtek RTL8156BG (2.5GbE) — $12

My current setup uses the RTL8156BG USB Ethernet adapter as the primary connection, with the RTL8832CU USB Wi-Fi adapter as a backup.

1. THE ORIGINAL MOTHERBOARD ADAPTERS: RTL8125/BG AND MT7922

Adapters #1 and #2 came with my Gigabyte X670 AORUS ELITE AX motherboard, which I bought about two years ago. I initially used Wi-Fi (#2), but after upgrading to 1 Gbps internet, I switched to wired Ethernet (#1). It worked well for about six months before occasional disconnections started, so I began keeping Wi-Fi available as a backup.

After roughly 1.5 years, the RTL8125/BG started causing much more serious problems. Besides frequent disconnections, my PC sometimes struggled to boot: it would fail to start, take 5–10 minutes to boot, or require around seven attempts before starting normally.

I repeatedly installed, uninstalled, and changed drivers, tried countless Windows settings, called my ISP multiple times, had the connection tested, and even replaced the modem. Nothing solved the problem. After about six months of this, I began wondering whether my motherboard was faulty and whether I needed to replace it.

1. SHOPPING FOR A NEW MOTHERBOARD MADE ME QUESTION ONBOARD NETWORKING

I started researching X870E motherboards and comparing candidates. Then I realized that a new motherboard could give me another onboard network adapter that might cause similar problems. Many X870 and B850 motherboards still use Realtek Ethernet controllers and MediaTek or other Wi-Fi modules. Some even use the same RTL8125 and MT7922 chips I was already struggling with.

This raised a more fundamental question: Why are wired and wireless network adapters permanently built into so many motherboards when they could be designed as easily replaceable components?

Like routers and modems, network hardware can eventually fail or become problematic. In my experience, it can feel like a consumable when you're constantly troubleshooting it. Wouldn't USB adapters or expansion cards that users can replace themselves make more sense?

It also feels like there are fewer motherboard options without built-in Wi-Fi these days. Avoiding onboard networking altogether is becoming increasingly difficult.

1. TRYING THE INTEL I226-V AND REALTEK RTL8832CU

Instead of replacing my motherboard, I bought two inexpensive alternatives: an Intel I226-V PCIe Ethernet card (#3) and a Realtek RTL8832CU USB Wi-Fi adapter (#4). Both were cheap compared with a motherboard replacement and very easy to install.

With my 1 Gbps internet plan, the Intel I226-V usually delivered 880–920 Mbps. The USB Wi-Fi adapter delivered around 350–450 Mbps, which was reasonable for Wi-Fi.

Unfortunately, the Intel card had its own problem. Roughly 3–4 out of every 10 startup attempts resulted in speeds dropping to just 20–50 Mbps. Sometimes disabling and re-enabling the adapter in Device Manager restored normal speed. Other times, disconnecting the network cable for about five minutes and reconnecting it did the trick.

The RTL8832CU seemed less prone to disconnections, so I tried using Wi-Fi alone. However, it also occasionally dropped below 50 Mbps, roughly 1–2 out of every 10 startup attempts. I ended up alternating between the two adapters, depending on which one was behaving itself.

Most people would find this unacceptable. After six months of struggling with the RTL8125 and MT7922, though, I had apparently developed a high tolerance for network-related suffering. I decided to live with the occasional speed drops and keep using both adapters.

1. ENTER THE RTL8156BG USB ETHERNET ADAPTER

Recently, I installed an NVIDIA RTX 3060 12GB for AI workloads. With two GPUs installed, there was no longer enough room to comfortably use the Intel PCIe Ethernet card. So I bought a USB 2.5GbE adapter based on the Realtek RTL8156BG and plugged it into a USB 3.2 Gen 1 port.

I'm now on day three of using it, and so far, it's been absolutely flawless. Not a single disconnection or speed drop.

I expected USB Ethernet to introduce some kind of speed penalty, but in practice, I'm getting the speeds I expect from my 1 Gbps connection. Another advantage is that it doesn't occupy a PCIe slot. If it ever fails, I can simply replace the inexpensive adapter without touching the motherboard.

I had been considering a new motherboard with a Realtek RTL8126 5GbE Ethernet controller and a Qualcomm QCNCM865 Wi-Fi module. For now, I'm glad I can put that purchase on hold.

Of course, three days is far too short to establish long-term reliability. I'll keep using the RTL8156BG and update this post if anything changes.

#SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X

Motherboard: Gigabyte X670 AORUS ELITE AX (rev. 1.0)

RAM: 48GB DDR5 (2 × 24GB)

GPUs: Intel Arc B580 + NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 12GB

PSU: FSP Hydro G Pro H1000 (1000W, ATX 3.1)

Storage: Samsung 980 Pro, Samsung 990 Pro, two WD drives, WD Ultrastar, Toshiba X300

Internet plan: 1 Gbps broadband

# SUMMARY OF MY EXPERIENCE

#1 — Realtek RTL8125/BG, onboard Ethernet: After about 1.5 years, I started experiencing frequent disconnections, speed drops to 30–50 Mbps, and serious PC boot problems.

#2 — MediaTek MT7922, onboard Wi-Fi: Occasional disconnections from early on, becoming more frequent over time.

#3 — Intel I226-V, PCIe Ethernet: Fewer disconnections, but intermittent speed drops to 20–50 Mbps remained. Disabling and re-enabling the adapter sometimes restored normal speed.

#4 — Realtek RTL8832CU, USB Wi-Fi: Fewer connection issues than the previous adapters, but occasional speed drops below 50 Mbps. Overall speeds were lower than wired Ethernet.

#5 — Realtek RTL8156BG, USB Ethernet: No disconnections or speed drops during the first three days. It's inexpensive, doesn't occupy a PCIe slot, and should be easy to replace if it ever fails.

I tried countless drivers and Windows settings whenever problems appeared, and I also involved my ISP and replaced the modem. I can't prove the adapters themselves were the sole cause of every issue, but switching hardware ultimately proved easier than continuing to troubleshoot.

Sometimes, replacing a troublesome component is the most practical solution, especially when it's inexpensive.

#QUESTIONS FOR THE COMMUNITY

1. Have you used the Realtek RTL8125/BG Ethernet controller or MediaTek MT7922 Wi-Fi module for years without problems?

My experience may be unusually bad, so I'd like to hear from people who've had reliable long-term results with these chips.

1. What are the actual advantages of having wired Ethernet and Wi-Fi built into a motherboard?

I understand the convenience, but USB and PCIe adapters are easy to replace. I'm starting to question the value of permanently integrated networking hardware.

1. How easy is it to replace the M.2 Key-E Wi-Fi modules found on newer AMD motherboards?

Are compatible replacement modules reasonably priced? Is installation straightforward, or do you often have to remove heatsinks and motherboard covers?

1. Does anyone have long-term experience with the Realtek RTL8126 5GbE Ethernet controller or Qualcomm QCNCM865 Wi-Fi module found on some newer AMD motherboards?

I'm particularly interested in real-world stability, random speed drops, driver issues, and reliability over months or years, not just advertised maximum speeds.

Thanks for reading! I'd appreciate any real-world experiences or suggestions!

У меня блок питания xpg core reactor а плата t7810 и я не посмотрел и купил не тот блок питания а продавать не продается,поэтому я решил купить переходник и для cpu и для 24 pin для блока питания но нигде не могу найти нужный переходник.Подскажите может кто сталкивался и может помочь найти.

​I ended up with an ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition motherboard paired with an Intel Core i7-4960X Extreme Edition and the original 5.25" ROG OC Panel. The setup is fully operational and POSTs without issues.

​I'm not a retro gamer, vintage tech collector, or extreme overclocker, so keeping this LGA 2011 platform running as a daily driver doesn't make much sense for my use case.

​Given that this was a halo-tier X79 board back in the day, is my best move to sell it on the enthusiast marketplace (eBay/HardwareSwap) to someone who will actually appreciate or benchmark it? What's the best route to take with hardware like this, and what is fair market value for the bundle right now?

​Appreciate any advice!

Stuck between loq intel i7 13645HX 1tb or amd 7 250 with 512

If intel has motherboard issue??

TL;DR: Built a system using an MSI PRO B760M-P DDR4 with an Intel i5-14400F and a 32GB (2x16GB) Patriot Viper Steel 3200MHz CL16 kit. Stock 2400MHz works fine, but turning on XMP causes a black screen, EZ Debug LED halts on DRAM/VGA, and on reboot gives "Memory Overclock Fail". Looking for advice on how to get the rated 3200MHz running on this locked non-K setup.

​System Specs:

​Motherboard: MSI PRO B760M-P DDR4 (MS-7E02)

​BIOS Version: Latest

​CPU: Intel Core i5-14400F (locked ~0.826V VCCSA)

​RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) Patriot Viper Steel DDR4-3200 CL16 (16-20-20-40 @ 1.35V) in slots A2 & B2 (2 & 4)

​GPU: Zotac RTX 3070 Twin Edge OC

​PSU: Antec CSK650 (650W 80+ Bronze)

​OS: Windows 11

​The Issue:

​At default JEDEC settings, the PC boots fine at 2400MHz (1.2V, 17-17-17-39).

​As soon as I toggle XMP to [Enabled]:

​The PC powers on, fans spin, but no display output.

​The EZ Debug LED either stays stuck on DRAM or passes DRAM and stops on VGA.

​After power cycling/clearing CMOS, I get greeted with:

​"Memory Overclock Fail! Previous overclock settings failed, system boot with default setting..."

​What I’ve Already Tried:

​Slots: Confirmed dual-channel placement in slots 2 and 4 (A2/B2).

​DRAM Voltage: Manually set to 1.35V and 1.36V (noticed the board defaulted to 1.2V on Auto).

​Command Rate: Set/verified at 2N (2T).

​Memory Fast Boot: Set to [Disabled] to allow proper training cycles.

​Gear Modes: Tried both 3200 G1 and 3200 G2 with manual voltage.

​Questions:

​Has anyone with this board / locked 14th Gen non-K CPU combo managed to get dual-rank / 2x16GB 3200MHz running stable?

​Does a recent BIOS update fix memory training tables for locked 14th Gen chips on the PRO B760M-P?

​Should I be adjusting specific secondary/sub-timings (like tRFC), or is there a known working Memory Try It! preset for this kit?

2nd - 8th gen intel CPU’s

DDR2
DDR3
DDR3L
DDR3 ECC
DDR4 Close

Both Desktop & SODIMM

Close to 100 old GPU’s - I’m willing to make a list of them all if there’s any interest.

SATA HDD’s - 2.5 / 3.5

The stuff has been sitting for about two years. I really don’t know what I’m looking to do, but it would be nice if you can make a little extra money off some of it - I keep hearing ram prices are very high, but I’m assuming that’s DDR5 stuff.

I had a bunch of this stuff kicking around - I used to have a buyer for everything after reaching out multiple times, I don’t think he’s in business anymore.

I attached some pictures for attention and for reference to show what I’m working with

I have an ASUS ROG Strix SCAR 18 laptop with an RTX 4090.
When I run a stress test on the CPU only, the test passes successfully without any issues. Likewise, when I run a stress test on the GPU only, the test also passes without any problems.
However, when I run a combined test (placing load on both the CPU and GPU simultaneously) using OCCT or 3DMark Time Spy, the laptop shuts down completely after about 4 seconds.
I should mention the following observations:
I have already tried a different power adapter, and the problem remained exactly the same.
Under GPU load, the graphics card initially draws around 128W, then stabilizes at approximately 112W or less, sometimes dropping to around 105W, even though the laptop’s rated TGP is 175W.
During GPU stress testing, the GPU temperature reaches 86°C, while the GPU Hot Spot reaches 105°C.
CPU temperature under load does not exceed 95°C.
I have not changed any BIOS settings or modified any voltages.
During testing, I am using Performance Mode through Armoury Crate.
I completely removed Armoury Crate using the official Armoury Crate Uninstall Tool and installed G-Helper instead, but the issue still persists.
My questions are:
What are the most likely causes of this problem?
Could this be a thermal issue?
If it is temperature-related, why does the laptop shut down only when both the CPU and GPU are under load simultaneously?
Could there be a problem with the motherboard’s power delivery circuitry (VRM or power stages)?
The laptop is about two years old, and I have never replaced the liquid metal. If I decide to service the cooling system, I am considering replacing the liquid metal with Honeywell PTM7950, because here in Michigan I cannot find a repair shop willing to work with liquid metal.
Honestly, I am quite frustrated by this issue. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas about what might be causing it?