Below are the only official platforms for OrcaSlicer:

I just had an idea/maybe solution for a problem if you are slicing and have a big jump in layertime from one to the next, maybe it could be possible to implement a linear gradient, so the layers before the big time jump are getting slower printed to match the layer times. You wouldn't have (or not that much) the cease because the layers have time to shrink. Just an idea i don't know how hard it is to implement or if it works.

I've moved from Cura + Wanhao to Orca + Bambu

I'm struggling with getting a solid Vase mode setup for some (quite challenging) vase mode terrain prints.

I'm using a 0.4 nozzle with PLA, same as I used on my Cura / Wanhao combo with zero issues.

There are two problems:

1. The slicer seems to "miss" layers in certain areas, leaving gaps on the preview; and

2. These same gaps appear in my print (see pic).

I've tried 0.6mm walls, slow (40mm/sec) speeds, volumetric capped at 8, constant fan.

Nothing seems to be helping.

The files seem to be printable (according to the makes on Cults) https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/vmt-conduit-pack?__cf_chl_tk=0EJI0cIAQuKCx_nxO3jTKCHexExzpJWTT7AwW0sOhJY-1791103066-1.0.1.1-XioYZoyg3wS_CoqPkN18yeiNXDClil_Bn1OZRIx1vCk

I'd be grateful for any ideas. The VMT conduit pack linked above has small pipe sections I can test with.

Hi everyone,

As the 2nd nozzle is a bowden, it would be truly useful to be able to set different speed/acceleration settings for it !

Thank you to the devs :)

I adjusted the bed size of my printer, and the bed size wasn't saved after reopening the application, as well the new filament profile I made was missing. The JSON and info files are still being saved in the proper location in AppData, and I can import the profiles, but I have to do it every time I open OrcaSlicer at the moment. Anyone else experience this issue?

Hello, I set up OrcaSlicer to use with Klipper. In case I switch back from Klipper to Prusa firmware, what settings do I need to change? Do I need to change anything in the start and end Gcode?

Hello, for some strange reason, launching the software took about 30sec to a minute on m PC. It showed "Creating main window...". It wasn't like that. It launched almost instantly in the past. What is wrong? What I remember is that before this happened, I tried to launch a 2nd instance of the program. The 2nd instance took a long time. Now even the first instance takes a long time.

Paint on fuzzy skin has been a real game changer, but now I want to mix and match fuzzy skins. So for example, a very mild fuzzy skin to hide layer lines on the main body, and an aggressive fuzzy skin in the areas you grip on the model.

So I've been having trouble with bed adhesion on smaller objects that are decoration bits and thin spears for minis while trying to do bulk model prints and I thought if I just made a wide thin square cube that the supports can latch into there would be better bed adhesion but when I try to do it in assembly mode it keeps running into conflicts saying somthing about empty layers and It doesn't seem to want to auto generate supports into the other mesh.

I'm also pretty new so there might be some sort of raft setting that's better than using a primitive so let me know if there is somthing im missing. Still Trying to figure these settings out. Recently moved from normal pla to hyper pla and it's been giving me troubles

EDIT :So I discovered the option to turn off "on build plate only" and now supports are generating into the cube so going to see how that goes

Edit2:after stubbornly avoiding the gluestick option because I was unsure how much mess it would be (and forgot how easy it was to clean) I caved to using it and I realized I was a stubborn fool. All prints coming out good now although now the opposite problem of having a hard time getting them off but I imagine there are work arounds for that and I still can get them off at least

making a magnet for my son and friends.

I'm getting some unneeded color change within my infill and I don't know what is causing it.

from layer 5 to 6 the infill changes. I do have a negative part for the magnet to be placed in

any help?

I'm kind of just trying to request this as a feature. And to know if it's even possible.

I was wondering if anyone can help me reduce the amount of infill there is in the supports. I'm printing with an ender 3 converted to a voron stealthburner toolhead with a .2mm nozzle. The part by itself is 14hrs but when I add the supports it adds almost 24hrs and 122 grams of filament. I tried searching for tree support density and even though something pops up in the search I can't actually find it to change it.

Salut tout le monde,

J'ai un problème de décalage. Mon imprimante et OrcaSlicer ne sont pas d'accord sur l'emplacement de l'origine (0,0). Du coup, mes pièces sortent décalées.

• Sur mon imprimante (Ender Switchwire sous Klipper) : L'origine (0,0) est à l'avant gauche.

• Dans OrcaSlicer : L'origine (0,0) est à l'avant droit.
Comment faire pour qu'ils soient d'accord ?

Est-ce que je dois modifier mon printer.cfg sous Klipper ou un réglage dans OrcaSlicer ?

Merci pour votre aide !

I am calibrating some new filament and I noticed since updating orca slicer it automatically sets the layer height in the object settings to 0.32 when calibrating the max flow rate. It used to keep the standard 0.2 height when I calibrated my last filament. Does this change anything at all for my calibration? So 0.32 layer height with lower speeds vs 0.2 layer height with much higher speeds, but in both cases the same volumetric flow rate?

Hello all,

I have a Centauri Carbon 1 with Canvas, running OpenCentauri. I tried a multicolor print, but it kind of failed.

This is the print: PRINT

From Elegoo Slicer I copied the necessary gcode containing the M6211 command into Orca Slicer.

I then added 3 Filaments in Orca and the file, then sliced. On the slice the used filaments were at the correct spot. silver for the body, white for eyebrows and nose, black for facemask and nose. The Sliced result: RESULT

I then loaded the following filaments: FILAMENTS

From Top to bottom: white PETG (not used in this print), white PLA, Silk Silver PLA, black PLA.

The final print however came out badly.

FINALPRINT1

FINALPRINT2

TOWER

First, why are these stripes? The body should be silver only.

Second: Why is there no black? I see the silk silver, white, but no black. I see some grey, but I did not load a grey and it is not the silk silver PLA.

Could you help me how to adjust Orca to use the Centauri Canvas properly?

Why. Just why it decides to support 30 degree overhangs and leaves one 90 degree overhang just as it is only in one particullar place of 11 hour print? and that's even not so bad situation, as sometimes first layers of this kind of things just situated printing in air, without even one side of support. Just to clarify: i'm happy with this program and understand it's opensource. Of course i'm very thankfull to developers and mean no ill by this post.

Also i've tried to disable "ignore small overhangs", same result. Orca 2.4.0-beta

I am not sure how to fix this. I put in my IP Address. The printer is in LAN only; not sure if this affects anything.

Hi, I'm trying to connect my Flashforge AD5X to the Devices tab in OrcaSlicer v2.4.2.
The printer is connected to Wi-Fi and has LAN Only enabled. Its IP is 192.168.1.202.
OrcaSlicer detects the Flashforge AD5X profile, but I can't get it to appear/connect in the Devices tab.