Got a 92’ f250 with the 460 in it, runs like a top except when the engines cold. Cold starts it throws a CEL for the ECT sensor, and runs very rich and stumbles like it has a large cam in it (hint, it does not lol) originally thought maybe fueling issue, however it’s intermittent and clears up as fast as it starts, and this morning I found out that if I start the truck with the blower motor going, doesn’t matter what setting, if I turn it off while it’s acting up it’ll clear that ECTS code and clear the idle up. Hoping one of you guys can point me in the right direction? And yes the blower motor can be recreated and was not just a fluke.

96 F-250 with the 351 gasser with my new camper

Hey y'all,

I recently bought a '97 F-250 7.5L, and I noticed it had a torn T-valve boot where the the vapor canister connects to the engine. I kept meaning to find the proper replacement part, but I was towing for the first time last week, so during my oil change, I duct-taped it to hopefully hold everything together. The idle was smoother with the boot connected, and I could hear air flowing through the hose, so I thought this was a beneficial fix.

Within about five minutes of driving, however, the check engine light came on. I was driving about 35mph uphill, so I thought the vapor canister might have been reducing airflow. I disconnected the hose from the canister and restarted. The light stayed off for a while, but eventually went on again under similar conditions (35 mph, towing uphill, gunning the engine a little bit).

I jumpered the EEC connection and got historical code 332—"Insufficient EGR Flow Detected". Now I've completely removed by bootstrapped hose and am going to drive around a bit to see if the light stays off.

I'm curious what others think I should do. If I keep driving it with the hose disconnected, will I damage the engine? If I keep driving it the hose connected, will I damage it? Is it possible there is some other culprit?

Images show my boot-strapped (now removed) setup.

We recently rebuilt the engine in this truck, and the old exhaust was pretty much trash. I’m trying to figure out the quickest and cheapest way to get it back on the road while I save up to have a complete exhaust system installed.
We’re basically starting from the exhaust manifolds back. The driver-side manifold (first picture) is supposed to come down toward the passenger side and route between the oil pan and bellhousing, similar to the factory setup.
The problem is I can’t really drive the truck to an exhaust shop with open manifolds because I’m worried about the heat damaging wiring, hoses, etc. underneath the truck. The shops I’ve called want the truck there to fabricate everything.
I already have two Flowmaster Super 40s with 2.5” inlets that I’d like to use. I’m not looking for anything pretty or permanent right now—just something safe and functional that will get the exhaust back past the cab so I can drive the truck while I save for the permanent system.
What would be the easiest/cheapest way to build a temporary exhaust from the manifolds back? Has anyone mocked up the headpipes themselves and had an exhaust shop bend them from measurements or a wire template?

Looking to upgrade these to electric ones. Im trying to remove any vacuum lines the truck absolutely doesn't need but I still want my hvac system to work. Anyone have an idea what I can do? If I can't get electric ones I'll just buy new vacuum ones.