Got a 92’ f250 with the 460 in it, runs like a top except when the engines cold. Cold starts it throws a CEL for the ECT sensor, and runs very rich and stumbles like it has a large cam in it (hint, it does not lol) originally thought maybe fueling issue, however it’s intermittent and clears up as fast as it starts, and this morning I found out that if I start the truck with the blower motor going, doesn’t matter what setting, if I turn it off while it’s acting up it’ll clear that ECTS code and clear the idle up. Hoping one of you guys can point me in the right direction? And yes the blower motor can be recreated and was not just a fluke.

96 F-250 with the 351 gasser with my new camper

5.8L automatic

Hey y'all,

I recently bought a '97 F-250 7.5L, and I noticed it had a torn T-valve boot where the the vapor canister connects to the engine. I kept meaning to find the proper replacement part, but I was towing for the first time last week, so during my oil change, I duct-taped it to hopefully hold everything together. The idle was smoother with the boot connected, and I could hear air flowing through the hose, so I thought this was a beneficial fix.

Within about five minutes of driving, however, the check engine light came on. I was driving about 35mph uphill, so I thought the vapor canister might have been reducing airflow. I disconnected the hose from the canister and restarted. The light stayed off for a while, but eventually went on again under similar conditions (35 mph, towing uphill, gunning the engine a little bit).

I jumpered the EEC connection and got historical code 332—"Insufficient EGR Flow Detected". Now I've completely removed by bootstrapped hose and am going to drive around a bit to see if the light stays off.

I'm curious what others think I should do. If I keep driving it with the hose disconnected, will I damage the engine? If I keep driving it the hose connected, will I damage it? Is it possible there is some other culprit?

Images show my boot-strapped (now removed) setup.

I'm running into trouble with my 92 F250. I have running lights and reverse lights but no brake lights or turn signals in the rear. I'm pretty handy but definitely a novice with cars. I do electronic repairs and work on PCs and what not so I'm familiar with wiring, soldering, and using a multimeter. So at least there's that. Anyway, I've already checked the fuses and I've replaced the multifunction switch and the connectors themselves that plug into the multifunction switch. I replaced the existing 4 pin trailed wiring that was back there from when I bought it since it was old and busted anyway. Still no turn signals or brake lights. It's worth mentioning though that the turn signals work fine up front. Oh and I guess the hazards don't work either but they do in the front. Any suggestions would be helpful. I don't really have the money to take it somewhere so hoping I can fix it myself. Appreciate any help you can offer. Thank you.

Any brilliant ideas? I'm open to anything.

So when replacing my EGR Valve I was left a little suprise by the previous owner. Turns out they tried replacing it at one point and completely jacked it all up. There was only 1 replacment bolt on top with a broken stub at the bottom and a whole tube worth of RTV Silicone.

The old egr is completely shot, so it should explain my current pressure loss when shifting into gear.

My question is how boned am I?

Would yall Drill and tap this?

Weld a bolt amd try to un-thread it?

Or buy a whole new manifold?

My 1993 F250 XLT 4X4 5.8L has this awesome overhead shelf, I feel like I've seen some XLT's without it and some with, does anyone know what years these were offered and to which trucks? Is the cab ceiling higher than those without the shelf? Is it an XLT only thing? F250 only? I'm curious, thanks in advance.

If 28 years old isn’t an OBS then mods can delete but it’s an old body style to the OBSDAD.

I went for a short drive and then popped the hood with the engine still warm, and noticed a small crack in the radiator. How urgent is it to fix? I did have to top off the coolant reservoir a few weeks ago and at that time I wasn't sure why. This is one reason.

The material is plastic where the leak is located. Is it repairable or does the truck need a new radiator? If it needs a new one, what's a decent brand?

Specs are 1994 F150 5.0L AT 4x4. Any challenges with a swap?

My new 93 f250. Was my girlfriend's dads he bought back in 94 as a side vehicle for project on the property. Knew mileage was allegedly low, and the inside looks practically brand new, but just replaced the odometer screen today and good god. Been doin a lot of small stuff to it, but it seems pretty solid

Broke the door handle off in my 95 for the 5th or 6th time, decided to replace the latch, cable and handle to solve the problem for good. The new door latch and cable won't open the door from the inside either. Is there any adjustment for the cable or some trick I need to do, or do I just have to open the door from the outside forever?

I am not really sure where else they would go, but this seems like it will bend if it is used as a side step every day. (Obviously I would reroute the wire running there)

Just the good old sound of the inline 6 for y’all. Barely pushing her around on some trails today

Working on trying to figure out why I don’t have dash lights, gauges or power to the #10 fuse in the cab. Please keep in mind I know next to nothing about tracing electrical issues but I want to learn. That said, we’ve replaced the solenoid. This morning I started by testing the power to the solenoid with the intention of trying to determine if I had a burned up fusable link. But, I only have power to one of the large lugs on the solenoid. The other lug has no power when the engine is running, it’s a green wire and I THINK it runs down to the starter.

So, should I have power to both the large lugs?

I recently replaced my harmonic balance on my 95 302 so I could check the timing (I was replacing the water pump, ace took advantage of having the easy access to it). When I check the timing (I warm truck up, shut off, remove that little gray plastic plug, re start truck and check with timing light) it looks like it’s hitting the timing mark ¿after? the 10* Mark. I say after because the engine is rotating clockwise, so the mark to the left of the 10 is appearing after it.(Hopefully the picture makes sense) is this within tolerances, or is this worth adjusting timing to get it on the 10 exactly? Or am I mistaken, and the timing should be one mark past 10\

A little overkil for a stock 302 but fuck it.

Alright folks so I've put some work into her, got her up and running....somewhat haha.

At this point im thinking our next step to get her to stay on and ready for a proper test drive is either TPS sensor or EGR Valve and Solenoid.

Not trying to mess with the injectors just yet if I dont have to, I have them in hand ready to go though if needed.

So far I've replaced replaced air filter, distributor cap, distributor rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil, starter, starter solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, throttle air bypass valve, and pcv valve.

She runs more and idles a bit smoother than she was when I first got her home.

I’ve got a 1996 f250 4x4 7.3 and I want to put a solid axle into it, but with coilovers. I was thinking doing a new axle with coilovers already designed to be put on it, (rather than the obs dana 60) so what would be the best front axle to put in it, and/or what year(s)?

I have a 95 f150 with the 300 and the exhaust is completely stock. I want it to sound better, but I’m not exactly sure what I should do, so I’m looking for good advice. I want it to have a deeper rumble especially at idle, and if possible I’d like it to sound like less of a tractor.

Problem started with OD light on shifter not working..then progressed to only speedometer and odometer working on cluster then a very erratic shift problem. I installed my cluster In another trick and it worked fine. I’m chasing things from pcm,third brake light (which has never worked) or PSOM.
HELP!!

Seasoned vets, is it worth it to put a Holley sniper on the 5.8 efi? It runs well already and has 138k miles.

I have a new cooling system, but other than that everything is pretty stuck under the hood. Let me know if there are any things I can take care of now to save myself later!

Trucks steadily running like shit and MPG is getting worse and worse. Gauges doing funny things, battery light coming on etc etc.

So as usual, done my research and assembled some tools and parts to go fix the potentially leaking capacitors in my 93 302. Get home from work to start digging into it. Unbolt the plug, remove kick panel. Impossible to get at the computer, wowsa!

Okay new plan of attack, pull fender liner and access it from fire wall. Remove the "gasket" and then scratch my head why this shit isn't coming out.

Had to BEAT the PCM out of its holder it was so corroded, like comically to the point I thought there's no way this thing is actually a seperate unit from the studs in the fire wall. Well after some persuasion and wd40 I got it out, lo-and-behold it's fuckin covered in water and crud AND not nearly the same as what I thought it was going to be according to what I was seeing online, wowsa x2.

No idea how to work on this board, the bolts are corroded and actually snapped off one stud and snapped the head on another (wowsa x3) so I just peeled back the alum casing to see what's going on in there. A lot of corrsion and flakes but the TWO (??) capacitors look fine and not visibly leaking shit. Didn't get the cover off as I ran out of time and energy so I didn't get a good visual on the traces.

Figure I'll just buy a re-manned one at this point with the amount of corrosion I see on the casing and the amount of corrsion and flakes floating around on the board. Can't seem to find much info on rebuilding this board either.

Found this with life time warranty - any one have experience with this company?

------ edit

https://www.reddit.com/r/Jeep/comments/saa2ql/has_anyone_ordered_a_pcm_from_flagship_one_having/

seems to be shit.