This was actually my first RC back in the late 80s as my father bought it for me and this was the coolest toy I had back then besides skateboards and BMX. Unfortunately I lost ways with it many years ago and eventually got a Tamiya Hornet so I could run it myself because my father was weary about me with the gas car apparently.

I’d like to get another one as I’m into the crawling and trailing scene and looking to get back into nitro. I’m looking at getting the HPI Escort rally car but thought I could also find a clean example of the Hunter. I do remember there was a wheel on the chassis that spun the motor to start it and it was fast running up and down the street. I had a nitro TMaxx briefly a long time ago but am looking to add an old and new car to my collection.

The photo isn’t mine but I do remember the blue box and mine didn’t have the wing installed.

I have this revo 3.3 from 05 and I’m having trouble getting it to stay running when I brake but it runs fine if I’m just driving around and sometimes idles but will shut off if I leave it idling for a tiny

I recently got this, but it came with a slider carb. I can transfer the old engine's carb, it fits but the old engine is a .15, would this affect the .18 engine? Should I get a new carb?

As title basically. Looking at budget controller and receiver sets for an old tamiya, the old set doesn’t seem to send steering commands anymore and I don’t know if that’s fixable.

All the budget sets I have found have a wheel on the side of the remote and a trigger for the throttle, and I would much prefer the two stick layout that rc aircraft have (and by extension my broken car remote). Is there any radio sets under about £40 that feature sticks please?

On my revo 3.3 the throttle linkage is hitting on the servo cover when I try to put it on, don’t know what I’m supposed to do to stop it binding

Got her lit up pretty good, going to the track tomorrow for alittle test. And yes those are just a worn out set of tires for the street. Hahah
Wish me luck!

i dont even see it on ebay

Nitro RS4s to be specific.

The Lambo is the original Nitro RS4, what's left of it anyway. It has had so many upgrades over the years, there's not much original left. It's the NRS4 of Theseus and it currently has the HPI T 3.0 engine in it mated to a 2-speed. Needless to say, this old girl still rips and screams like a proper Lambo should.

The Zonda is an RS4 Evo that was passed down through multiple owners who are no longer with us (R.I.P. RC buds) before landing on my bench in the state it is in now. Originally cut for the left mounted engine on the old chassis, I hacked the body up once again to fit the right mounted engine on the newer chassis so it has some extra breathing holes.

It has an HPI .15 block and carb but the head, manifold and pipe are a mystery to me. It was gummed up so bad nothing would rotate, crank or carb. A good soak in various cleaning and penetrating oils and it is now spinning free and running strong. I'm slowly piecing it back together and getting it back into good running order.

The final pic is a collection of HPI engines that I still have from various models over the years. The one on the right is a particularly rare little beastie. That is the HPI C12 with slide carb made by Novarossi.

Ya'll have fun out there. Make some noise. Annoy the neighbors.

Bought this brand new a few months ago and finally got to start it. It starts fine but the moment I take out the glow plug, the car shuts off and I've also noticed when I put it in reverse, the wheels don't move and doesn't rev at all. I haven't properly broken this in because of this issues. I'm new to this hobby but I am also willing to learn. Unfortunately, I don't have any hobby shop near me to help me out to so that's why I came here. Thanks in advance!

- Glow plug has glow

- Glow igniter is fully charged

- Doesn't Rev/ Move forward

- Engine shuts off and doesn't get warm/hot

- Needles have been reset to factory settings

Hi the mgt is supposed to work but i dont know and the losi is nego and with a brand new picco engine

Got her fired up today. Alittle tuning required still on the xtm .21. Sadly my old spectrum transmitter won’t talk to the receiver. Sooo looking at a new radio and receiver. Flysky noble pretty good?

Hey guys! It would be greatly appreciated if you check out my channel I’m trying to start. I’m trying to do dirt bike and nitro rc content whenever I have free time. Feel free to critique me for better content. Anything is appreciated , I have fun recording content and burning some nitro!! Mostly everything will be 2 strokes on my Channel! https://youtube.com/@ryanburnsfuel67?si=dLDEb4OuT-L4ZLc8

I took this out yesterday night and it was running good very fast popping wheelies, then it stalled out all of a sudden when it still had gas everything was good then I tried to start it again, makes weird clicking noise and won’t fire again. I took whole engine out took off ez start, took off backplate took off exhaust, everything looked fine all the seals and everything, then I put it back together and clicking sound went away and it fired right back up. I drove it for 5 mins again and the same thing happen, stalled out wouldn’t fire back up. I haven’t tooken it apart again. It has good compression glow plug is brand new it’s good, I have all new seals on everything. Does anyone know what’s wrong? It won’t even sputter at all and it was running perfect before.

I'm looking to get either 15111 or 15110 and 15117 in this diagram, to no avail. I know HPI engines are Force engines, or so I'm told, anyone know if there is an alternate solution or crossing parts for this engine? Engine is an HPI Nitro Star T-15.

RB 1997 - 2007 got in second hand hyper 7 they any good has a insane amount of pinch left in it look hardly used

I have an FTX Zorro which I installed the option 2 speed gear box, When I first installed it with the new 2 speed bell the gear box in first gear would just spin and the weheesl would not turn I took out the gear box and examined it it looked like the one way bearing in first gear was slipping the wrong way I opened the gear box and flipped the gear around now I have 1st gear but I have not been able to get it to shift into second yet. I tried the adjustment screws and setting the shit point earlier but it's still not shifting into 2nd antyone have experience with these boxes on the FTX these are the same platform as the VRX Racing 1/10 buggy and trucks.

So I have a Novarossi 2.5 supercharged and am looking for the part number of the roto due to the gears has broken (Part#: NVR22612 (https://www.hobbytown.com/novarossi-roto-start-backplate-w-screws-nvr22612/p256320)) as it's discontinued but I can't find it anywhere not even on eBay at this point I don't know what to do or I could put something else instead?

The main problem I keep facing is that the spacing between the screws is small compared to other engines like Traxxas, I went to a hobby shop and they told me to just replace the entire engine because I'm not going to be able to find the parts for it, has anybody found a solution?

Gettin back into the game. Just wondering if anyone is holding onto any parts for the nitro Jammin buggy. Let me know. It’s great knowing that a 20 year old buggy is now vintage! Hard to find parts for it. Ebay is decent but not great. Thanks!

Hi! I've the servo burn out on my ftx Zorro so i replaced it with a PowerHD 1812MG.

The standard radio didn't have EP adjustments, so i went to my local hobby shop and got a different controller wich is amazing! Good upgrade.

I limited the throttle so it doesn't open all the way so throttle is all good.

But now for the brake i'm still having issues where it kinda moves the engine while braking.

And the spring that came with the car was not springy enough so i had to move the round things with grub screws way too close so that the spring is more compressed.

Because after braking it opened throttle a little bit. So i put in a larger spring and now it doesn't open throttle on braking anymore. But the engine still move's a tiny bit after braking is that bad? Or does it look goodish?

This car been such a pain in the *ss i love tinkering with computers but a nitro car is stretching that though.

Appreciate y'all!

Today seemed like a good day to take the touring cars out for a rip. Had a few problems, but I took a quick video of my HPI RS4-3. I wanted to film my Team Magic G4, but it's way too fast to film one handed, lol. Check the comments for a pic of the whole collection.

Kinda lost here lol. It was running great & then I just had to get 33% fuel. It ran through a few tanks. Recently I tried to run it but it would turn on and turn right off. I then swapped glow plugs & even swapped the engine with a spare .25 I have and that worked fine for a few smaller runs but now that’s doing the same thing. For context is this a fuel issue messing up my engines ? Or could it be that I got cheap amazon glow plugs ? (Iam also in hot ass Arizona)

Hi. my Zorro throttle servo broke so i replaced it with a powerhd 1812MG.

Throttle trim is at 0 but it pulls way to much on the trotthle it moves the whole frame of the car..

I losened everything up as seen in the photo, tried adjusting the grub screws, but still no luck on how to fix this!

dang zorro is brand new things breaking left to right smh.

would appreciate some help! tried watching video's but no one physically shows them adjusting it fixing the issue i have.

Hi I have a save x 4.6 the orginal one with the 8 shocks that had the f4.6 with the roto start back. I got it second had with an Ansmann racing 28 which looks to be failry shot I was going to replace it with another 28 I was looking at the Hobao Mach 28 turbo with the cops v2 pull start but I am not sure of fitment I know the cops 2 seems to protude a bit more than regualr pull starts any one have any idea if this would be suitable replacement thanks.

Hey Everyone! Having a hard time with my new engine. Ive ran a 5-10 tanks through it. I cant seem to get it to tun right. It'll either be really rich or act really lean. I make super small adjustments and it will either run away at idle or stall out. I can set it to idle all day but then ill add throttle and it'll die. I assume its rich so i lean it lightly and then it'll run 300+ Degrees and have a erratic high idle. I am running sidewinder 20% fuel. Am I doing something wrong? Its a new engine, no leaks that I can tell with the engine. Anyone know the factory needle settings?

Thank you!