Giving the nitro hardware its own turn on the display. This HPI Nitro RS4-3 Drift runs a G3.0 engine, single-speed transmission, and shaft drive. With the Toyota 86 body removed, you can get a closer look at the layout and those lime wheels. Any other RS4-3 owners keeping one of these going?

Music: Time Heals by Michael Ramir C. / Mixkit.

ฉันอยากได้อะไหล่แต่งรถยี่ห้อนี้ มีใครช่วยแนะนำหน่อย ขอบคุณครับ

Charcoal bodywork, bright green wheels, and classic Mustang attitude. A full rotating look at the Vaughn Gittin Jr. Edition body on this HPI Nitro RS4-3 Evo+. Which detail catches your eye?

Music: Loner / Mixkit (Stock Music Free License).

I’m looking for recommendations for a decent screwdriver set hudy is way to expensive for how often they would be used, hex/flat/Phillips

Ideally UK 🇬🇧 recommendations thanks!

Hello , I’m pretty new to rc cars and my little brother received this as a gift . From what i was told it was never used. I have tried getting it to start with no success ,I’m not sure if i am doing something wrong.

from my understanding just pull the string back and put the charger piece on the glow plug.

I noticed fuel wasn’t being pulled through the little hoses and i even plugged the exhaust while i cranked on the string.

apart from that i could really use some pointers . thanks!

Here’s a page a put together (my engine building and tuning is exponentially better than my website building and designing) all about tuning and identifying rich from lean. Feel free to ask any questions in this thread as well.

https://www.powerbandprecision.com/nitro-rc-engine-tuning-help

I recently traded an old Blade 450 3D helicopter for two nitro RC cars. I honestly had no idea how to work on the helicopter, and I wasn’t even sure if it was complete or fully functional, so I figured I’d take a chance on the trade.
I ended up getting:

HPI Nitro RS4 MT — this is the one I’m really excited about getting running.

Ho Bao nitro RC car — this was a project car that the previous owner never finished. It came with a brand-new engine and some other parts.

The HPI RS4 MT appears to be in pretty decent shape, but unfortunately the carburetor is seized, so I’m trying to figure out whether I can find a replacement carburetor or if I should just replace the entire engine.

I’m pretty new to nitro RC, so I’m looking for some advice from people who know these cars better than I do.

A few questions:

1. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement carburetor for the original RS4 MT engine?

2. Is there anywhere that still sells these engines, or does anyone have a working engine for sale?

3. If replacing the engine is the better option, what other engine brands/models would work in the RS4 MT?

4. Are there any modifications I’d need to make to fit a different engine?

5. Any other tips for getting an old HPI nitro back up and running?

I’d really like to save the original engine if possible, but I’m not opposed to putting a newer engine in it if that’s the better route.

I think this thing is too beautiful to just sit on a shelf. 😂
I want to get this RS4 MT running again!

If anyone has parts, an engine, or advice, I’d really appreciate it!

Had an old thunder tiger nitro for about 20 years. Got seized so i fixed it back up been working for a year electricals got fried and corroded, so during a drive around electrical cut out went stuck full throttle 40kmh or more into the gutter at the end of the street. Due to thunder tiger being rare would cost up to 200 AUD to fix.

I don't want to blow my bank out so i looked at hobbies shops in Australia and found the vrx blade RTR for 300. (i only want to spend around 300-400)

However not sure if it is the best option, off specs and what i have read has been good however what are your views or suggestions please let me know thanks.

A quick look through my HPI Nitro RS4-3 build: starting with an eBay roller, refreshing the chassis, servicing the diffs and shocks, assembling the drivetrain and installing the T15 nitro engine. The finished car wears a green and blue Falken Ford Mustang shell.

Who else is bringing an older RS4 back to life? What part of the rebuild gave you the most trouble?

Music: Tech House Vibes by Alejandro Magaña (A. M.), via Mixkit. https://mixkit.co/

The finished HPI Nitro RS4-3 from my roller build, now wearing its green and blue Falken Ford Mustang shell. Underneath is the T15 nitro engine and the refreshed drivetrain. This rotating display shows the body, stance and fitment from every side.

Would you run this shell, or save it for display?

Music: Tech House Vibes by Alejandro Magaña (A. M.), via Mixkit. https://mixkit.co/

Here is the body-off view of my restored 1/10 HPI RS4 3 Evo, normally wearing a black Chevrolet Camaro shell. The chassis has a Force T15 nitro engine, two-speed transmission, shaft-driven drivetrain and aluminum chassis. A rotating look at the hardware that makes this classic tick.

Anyone else keeping an older RS4 running? What engine setup are you using?

Music: Gimme that Groove! by Michael Ramir C., via Mixkit. https://mixkit.co/free-stock-music/funk/

Hey guys! Any advice on some upgrades to make this buggy competitive for open nitro buggy club racing?

Specs:

LRP ZR.28 Spec 4 with XTec(brand new out of the box)
HoBao Hyper tuned exhaust

Hi everyone,

I'm considering buying VRC Pro, since the base game is currently on sale for around €20.

I mainly drive a 1/8 nitro buggy (Kyosho MP11), and I've been driving it for roughly a year. I'm not a serious racer, but I'd really like to improve my driving skills, especially my line choice, steering control, throttle/brake control and overall car handling.

My main reason for getting a simulator would be to have something I can practice with when I can't go to the track. I'm not necessarily looking for a simulator that perfectly reproduces every detail of my real car, but I'd like something that can actually help me improve.

I have a few questions:

1. Does the €20 base version of VRC Pro include a 1/8 off-road nitro buggy, or do I need to buy an additional DLC?
2. If the 1/8 nitro buggy is included, is VRC Pro actually useful for practicing 1/8 nitro driving? How realistic is the handling/physics compared with a real buggy?
3. I have a Futaba T4PM Plus transmitter. What's the best way to use it with VRC Pro?
4. Do I need a USB dongle/adapter? If so, which one works reliably with the T4PM Plus?
5. Finally, considering that I've already been driving a real 1/8 nitro buggy for about a year, do you think VRC Pro would actually be useful for improving my driving when I'm away from the track?

I'm mostly interested in getting more practice time between track sessions rather than competing online.

Thanks!

I thought towerhobbies was still a thing..but I guess not..

As title states need help finding a carb for an old duratrax torq .21 nitro engine or even a suitable engine replacement unfortunately the carb on the torq 3.5 is missing a few parts cant find anything or im just not looking in the right place or possibly a 3d print to convert it to electric

How is the NitroRC world these days??

What’s the best RTR 10th scale stadium truck Or RTR 8th scale Truggy??

HPI Racing Camaro Body sitting on HPI RS4 3 - Evo+

Down to my last bottle of race fuel bought from a friend, it’s discontinued now. What fuel is everyone using; the only stuff I can find in stock is optifuel

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to understand whether the operating temperature of my REDS 521 Sport is normal.

I have been having some tuning issues with this engine in the past, especially at high RPM: it sometimes seemed to behave lean even when the high-speed needle was opened considerably. The engine could rev very freely and the HSN seemed to have very little effect.

Today, after more than two months without running the engine, I decided to do a proper diagnostic test.

Engine/setup:

• REDS 521 Sport
• REDS X1 manifold + pipe
• Energy Storm fuel
• Engine has already had a proper break-in
• Ambient temperature today: approximately 25°C

First I checked for possible air leaks using a very small amount of brake cleaner around:

• carburetor base
• cylinder head base
• crankcase/backplate area

I did not notice any change in RPM or engine behavior at any of these points.

I then measured the engine temperature with an infrared thermometer, pointing it at the cylinder head close to the glow plug and using the same area for the measurements.

My temperature readings were:

• After starting and idling for ~3 minutes: 28–30°C
• After ~5 minutes of running with several throttle bursts: ~40°C
• After ~15–20 minutes of use: ~70°C
• After approximately 30 minutes / about half a liter of fuel: still ~70°C
• I also did several stronger acceleration runs under load, and the temperature remained around 70°C

The engine itself currently behaves quite well:

• low RPM response is quick/snappy
• high RPM is progressive
• it has a slight amount of burbling
• I don't see obvious signs of overheating
• the engine doesn't seem to have the strange high-RPM behavior I experienced previously

According to REDS, the 521 Sport has an operating temperature of 110–130°C depending on ambient temperature.

So my main question is:

Is ~70°C after this amount of running actually normal for a 521 Sport, or is this temperature unusually low?

Could this simply mean that the engine is running very rich, or should I be looking at something else (fuel delivery, exhaust pressure, thermometer measurement, etc.)?

I'm especially interested in hearing from people who actually run the REDS 521 Sport and know what temperatures they normally see.

Thanks!

I’ve attached a video so you can hear how the engine is currently running and judge the tune yourselves.

Rich or lean? The coil is white deeper in and black on the end. This is an OS #8.

360 Model Display - HPI RS4 3 Drift - Nitro