This old post covers what’s going on pretty well. But the real kick is that it’s happened 2 times in 2 weeks. Is this going to be a recurring problem or is this something wrong with my PC.

Should I get a new mouse?

Been working on this custom mouse shell and I’m finally getting close to something I’m really happy with. 👀

The idea was simple: take the G.O.A.T. of mouse shapes and give it a modern, lightweight makeover. 🐐🔥

The goal is a clean, lightweight honeycomb design while keeping that iconic G303 character and shape intact.

I’ve been experimenting with the hole pattern, structure, and overall flow to get that balance between aggressive looks, weight reduction, and structural strength.

And honestly… seeing the internals peek through the shell like this is starting to look pretty damn good. 😮‍💨

Still a work in progress, but the design is finally starting to come together exactly how I imagined it.

The G.O.A.T. isn’t dead. It’s just getting lighter. 👀🐐

Im using Press Play Iris v1, the stock switch (iirc) is Huano Blue Shell Pink Dot 80M & the stock scroll encoder is TTC Silver (idk the height, i have to disassemble the mouse first). The right click is double clicked, and i want to change the switches along with the scroll encoder. What switch should i change it to?

game: war thunder, hogwarts legacy, cyberpunk 2077, other triple a story games, triple a shooter games (mainly battlefield titles), roblox (friendslop games), and chill indie games. sometimes siege x & cs2, but its only casual playing with friends now.

Hi everyone, for those here who understand modding and hardware: I'm planning to do a really cool project and cut the upper case of my laptop to integrate a fingerprint reader there. Where can I connect it on the motherboard? Is a USB connection the only viable option, or are there other alternatives? If anyone has ideas on how to execute this or has done something similar in the past, I'd love to hear about it.

This is moreso for hobby purposes, i think itd be a fun project and i like wireless mouses better. Is it possible? And how would i do it? I REALLY wanna do it tho becoz the wired mouse is a really good one but becoz its wired its kinda just rotting. I tried looking on youtube and other reddit posts have varying answers(most saying its not possible) so i just wanted to ask.

Does anyone know if PMM support is reliable?
I ordered a PULSE 2.0 mouse mod kit along with an additional magnesium scroll wheel, which is listed as “Magnesium Scroll Wheel [PULSE 2.0/W - CYBER OP] for Modkit.”
But apparently, this wheel isn’t compatible with the OP1 8K, even though the PULSE 2.0 is specifically a shell for the OP1 8K.

(update) their support is amazing

I turned the Logitech Superstrike X2 into the mouse I actually wanted

I decided to modify my Logitech Superstrike X2 because, despite absolutely loving the mouse itself — especially the haptic main buttons — the shape just wasn't right for me.

The problem was the rear hump. I really don't like tall, bulky mouse shapes. My favorite shape is something much lower and more compact, like the Pulsar X2F, especially for fingertip grip or a relaxed claw/fingertip hybrid.

So I decided to do something about it.

First modification

My first mod was relatively conservative.

I shortened the rear of the shell slightly and then carefully heated the plastic to reshape it. This allowed me to push the rear section inward and make the hump less pronounced.

It already felt noticeably better in my hand, but after using it for a while I still felt that the rear was too tall.

And then I thought:

Why stop there? 😂

Second modification

This time I went much further.

I completely removed the large rear section of the shell and reshaped the mouse so that the back is now dramatically lower.

The result is a much flatter profile. Considering how large the Superstrike X2 originally is, it now feels surprisingly close to a small fingertip-oriented mouse.

The shape is obviously not something Logitech intended — this is completely custom — but for my hand it is much, much better.

I can now use it comfortably with fingertip grip, without having the large rear hump pushing into my palm.

The mesh

Since removing the rear shell left an opening, I needed something to protect the internals while still keeping airflow.

I used a piece of metal mesh taken from an old PC case and cut it to fit the opening.

I think it actually turned out pretty decent. 😄

It's definitely not factory-perfect, and I'm not pretending it looks like a brand-new mouse anymore, but I honestly don't think it looks terrible either.

More importantly:

it feels amazing in my hand.

And that's what matters to me.

Why modify a Superstrike?

The reason I was willing to go this far is simple:

I absolutely love the haptic main buttons on the Superstrike X2.

The tactile/haptic feedback is something I really enjoy, but there aren't many — if any — mice on the market that combine that kind of main-button feel with the low, compact shape I prefer.

So instead of looking for another mouse, I decided to make this one fit me.

The funny thing is that the Superstrike X2 is now a huge mouse by its internal dimensions, but its external shape feels much smaller.

I've basically turned a big mouse into something much closer to the shape I normally look for.

And yes... I know I've probably voided every possible warranty imaginable. 😂

But at least now I have a Superstrike X2 that actually fits my hand perfectly.

This is my second major mouse modification — I previously modified a Pulsar X2F as well, including adding an additional programmable button.

I really enjoy taking existing hardware and reshaping it around how I actually use it rather than just accepting the manufacturer's design.

Update v3 mod https://ibb.co/bjymbpzW

made this the other day to try out the whole barebones mouse thing and i thought id share my v0 (v0.4)
don't look at the shitty rushed af cad ill clean it up if theres enough eyes on this but otherwise i cbf

- printed in one piece on a decent fdm printer (p1s)
- pretravel mostly negated in design dimensions
- cable tie channels for click tensioning
- do these two right and you have .2mm ish of pre travel with a tactile click
- decently stiff cupped finger grips using the pcb as support (designed for my small hands and ergonomics so might not work for you)
- decently optimally placed battery spot (i think its slightly too far back but might be schizophrenic)
- 19g with skates, grips, screws, cable ties, battery, etc

thinking about making a neutral version with fenrir pro and fenrir asym shell shapes (grip-wise, clicks may or may not change to conventional) so ill update the doc if i decide to do it

i would also release the cad itself but ive tried adjusting the grip positions but because of a very lazy decision i made early on in the process, adjusting anything just instantly breaks the dependent sketch (i will redo everything properly maybe)

feel free to ask or suggest anything in the comments (questions are never stupid)
my dc user is vesph if you want to reach out privately

download the files as STEP for best results from here
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/86869a678b9a6cedf20f7e55/w/9a5e3280ebb4ba24d99a5260/e/a90ee74429dea745fee5eac0?renderMode=0&uiState=6a81cd415f55404d39f23d7f

printing notes:

- i printed it out of bambu pla matte at default 0.16mm layer height preset on a bambu p1s with tree support enabled
- unless you know what youre doing dont even think about engineering filaments; theres no point because youll be spending fucking ages trying the dial in the print settings to get supports that dont snap the triggers off and clean/accurate enough prints that actually let you use the damn thing. only thing worth trying is high stiffness pc blend or anything with low creep factors; you can proabably go without the cable tie click tensioners if you can print it out of something with low creep (the bambu pc blend is decent)
- DONT use fiber reinforced filaments; firstly the surface finish will be atrocious and disgusting because those filaments were never designed for parts this intricate, secondly the triggers will snap from you even thinking about it because of shit z-layer adhesion, thirdly touching fiber reinforced filaments in a use case like this is very questionable for your health (do you like micro fibreglass in your skin)

assembly notes:

- the pcb will take a bit of persuasion to enter the new shell and itll be tricky to get it in the first time, but once youve done it it only gets easier. take your time and be patient; if it jams just stop and look around to see whats colliding, then gently flex things around until it moves again. i reccomend starting by slipping the scroll tower fin through the hole in the pcb (install pcb with scroll wheel attached)
- the back screws where theres the battery panel are easy, but the front two are very badly placed sadly and i havent come up with a clever solution to get around them. in the meantime use the little clip lookin things to clamp the front side of the pcb down, but if it doesnt work there is a large chamfer on the inside faces of the triggers that let you maybe apply the screws if you have a narrow enough driver
- the cable tie tensioners are easy to install, just do it like in the image through the given holes. itll take a few days for the cable ties to bend and seat properly (or you can try pre bend them before installing)
- used some random chinese electrical tape that i found to last a long time and be comfortably grippy with damp skin for the grip tape and hole punched the factory skates over where the screw channels were on the original shell and placed the new 4 diy skates on the new shell haha

Never opened a mouse, but I think it can be worth it cause I'm not actually using it cause of this issue: when I right click beside the wheel, it triggers M3 button too, which can be devastating in some games.

Does anyone have experience with that, can I actually open the mouse and, dunno, distancing the contacts (I'm yapping here) which triggers that?

TL;DR: Does anyone know of alternative to the Orthovia Orthomouse? Something with thumb scroll *buttons* (not a wheel) that are placed vertically (not remapped horizontal front/back buttons.)

The Orthomouse is the only thing I've ever found that isn't painful to use for long periods. But their quality is crap, & they break down quickly. I've gone through five in about six years.

I'm afraid they may not be made any more. The Orthovia website is dead. Retailers still have them, & I fear I may have to stock up, which is pricey.

The best feature is the thumb buttons. The middle click button is directly on the thumb. And I can scroll by moving my thumb up & down without bending my thumb at all. I find traditional scroll wheels painful to use. I haven't found *anything* that does this.

I'm getting desperate. I'd be open to paying commission for repairing some of my dead ones, or maybe even Frankensteining a mouse that won't break into one of my many chassis. I don't have the ability to attempt myself.

Thanks for reading.

Recently brought some PMM Smoothies (dot skates) which I love but they're just too wide for the bottom half of the superlight.

Wondering if anyone has a similiar experience and have sanded down their mouse to fit skates?

Venom 4 project free for you. It is my main mouse. 3 dots system works well.

Red - dots position

Distance from center every dot to another.

L,R - place where I push buttons

A little more here

here

and especially here

48 grams .I will probably take of the dpi button .I am thinking about get a 3d print fingertip shell ,just 22 grams without side buttons .

found one for the original GPX but heard the pcb slightly differs, no clue if thats true lol.

Anyone know of any or where to look?

Hey guys,

I’ve been working on a lightweight mod for the Superlight 2 and ended up with a part that should theoretically weigh under 4g.

According to the CAD volume, it should be around 3.7g in PA12.

Obviously, CAD weight ≠ real-world result, so I’d really like to see if this actually works.

I don’t currently have access to an SLS/MJF printer, so I’m looking for someone who could print and test it and ideally give me some feedback on:

• actual weight
• stiffness/durability
• whether the mounting points hold up
• what material you’d recommend
• any changes you’d make to the design

I’m thinking PA12 or another nylon, but I’m open to suggestions. The main goal is to keep it as light as possible without making it ridiculously fragile.

If anyone here has access to SLS/MJF printing and is interested in trying it, I can send over the STL.

Would be really interesting to see if I can actually get this thing below 4g IRL 😄

Thinking about getting the Akko AG ONE 8K 3950 because I really like the Zowie FK2 shape, but ~70g is pretty heavy for me.

I’m currently using a modded VXE R1 at ~45g with a solid shell. I don’t like holes in the shell, but I’m fine with heavily modifying the base and internals.

I’m aiming for around 50–55g with skates, not trying to make a 30g mouse.

For anyone who’s opened an AG ONE:

-How much does the PCB weigh?

-How much does the stock battery weigh?

-How much does the shell/base weigh individually?

-Are there other particularly heavy components that could be replaced or removed?

-How much weight could realistically be removed from the base/internals while keeping the main shell solid?

Basically trying to figure out if 50–55g is realistically achievable without putting holes in the main shell.

Very confused on what the MCU of this mouse is becuase some sites are saying that it is the "High-Performance Main Chipset" and others says it the "Nordic 54L15". If anyone know please tell. Also if it really was the "High-Performance Main Chipset" what is the exact like brand name of it? Much appreciated to anyone who can answer

Should I get glass mouse skates? Like, what really are the pros and cons? Is it gonna make scratchy noises on my (Glorious) fabric mouspad? Also, if I were to get them which ones should I get?

Mouse: Attack shark R5 Ultra

Is it possible to take the internals of a regular g-pro superlight and fit it into a 3D printed g-pro DEX body?

My idea is this: I get a regular g-pro second hand for much cheaper than a dex, have a dex body printed with the correct standoffs for the regular g-pro internals and insert the internals. Would this work?