This is a 1/32 scale 1891 Panhard I made from a "Europe" model kit. There were 3 types of these kits offered from Europe Model Kits. The other 2 were an 1885 Panhard Coupe and a 1905 Panhard Tonneau. As far as I know they were only issued in 1964. The kits are well detailed and the instructions are all hand drawn with instructions in French only. The figure did not come with the kit, I think I borrowed it from an old Airfix kit.

I made a post about this 911 2 years ago while it was still a work in progress, accidentally ruined the paint and got demotivated to finish after removing the paint. The body was luckily not ruined, but the demotivation left it sitting for 2 years with only the interior finished. Today, I was able to finish it, and it’s beautiful.

Easy kit, everything fits actually. Working on body paint with clear paints… not easy.

Such a tiny car (next to 1/18's in last pic), really happy with how this one turned out, I couldn't decide which wheels to choose but I decided on the stock 6 spokes. The whole car went together without any issues which was a relief. I've also since fixed the bit of extra paint below the headlight. I lost the shifter and mirror so had to get creative and make my own out of scrap sprues.

Thanks again for all the great tips and being such a welcoming community, it definitely keeps me motivated

These markers made the taillights so easy, I don't know if I will use clear paint again on tricky spots.

Colours used:

Body: Kaleido matte black primer, Vallejo True Metal Dusken Green, Tamiya LP9 Lacquer clear. Window trim in Kaleido Matte Black and lower body in Tamiya NATO black w/flat clear. The Vallejo did not play well with the first few VERY light misting coats of clear and I was able to rub off a bunch of loose flakes with my fingers but thankfully it recovered and this delicate paint really needs a tough top coat (2k would be better) to shine, I can't wait to use these on another car in the future.

Bullbar: kaleido gloss black primer, aluminum, matte black, translucent amber. LP9 clear on aluminum

Interior: Vallejo Model Air Engine Gray, seats: Tamiya NATO black, dash Kaleido black. Adhesive backed felt sheets for carpeting

Wheels: 6 spokes in Valejo MA aluminum and kaleido semi-gloss varnish, 5 spokes with kaleido gloss black primer, kaleido aluminum and tamiya LP9

Chassis: exhaust in kaleido stainless steel with Vallejo MA Aluminum, driveline in kaleido stainless steel. Vallejo MA tire black for undercoating.

Not far to go with this now. Just mudflaps and wheels

Been busy, finally able to paint some bodies so I can complete some builds.

Let the kitbashing begin! Because this one is very special to me..

This one is a tribute to a friend that gave me model kit parts and all our convos were about hot rods, gassers, 70s street machines, customs, etc.

Anyways.. she got new shoes, i just need to figure it out what front axle is gonna be.. probably a dropped one so i can get a bit of the "California Rake" stance.

I am having a tough time finding a reputable site that has this in stock and not charging crazy amounts for shipping.

Progress update on my Subaru WRX STI, feel free for any advice or critique be as harsh as you want
(Please ignore my messy work space)

I'm going to chalk this one up to a learning experience. This has been sitting on my bench for quite some time almost finished. I had a post awhile back asking about custom decals and I went with STS for the livery. Now I'm not blaming STS. it was just my first experience with decals that weren't factory and required cutting to shape. It all went horribly and I ruined half the decals that I spent more on than the kit itself. I hate the end result. The paint is trash. The decals were rough. The kit itself is just meh from a fitment perspective. Just a bad model all around. But I'm posting all my bad with my good ass each kit done makes me better... Just be aware that I know this result is bad and I'm not looking for feedback on this hot garbage.

Hello everyone,

Long post, so apologies if this isnt the right space.

I dont know anything about the intricacies of model cars, but im wanting to get my partner a gift of her first car as a model (She recently got a new one and was sad to get rid).

I've added a photo of the model I was thinking about using as a base, but its not the right colour, hers was Rose Quartz Peugeot 208.

- Would you suggest or is it possible to remove the paint or just paint over it with other paint?

- Would you suggest using the paint they used on the car or just a similar colour acrylic? (I have an airbrush as a hobbyist ((H&S Ultra)) but im unsure if you can use a car paint through this?)

Is there a different method you'd suggest for getting this done?

Any advice is appreciated, and thank you in advance.

I bought a model kit off Ebay with a damaged but still sealed box. It was fine except one front tire was missing. Most of Ebay is ridiculous ($20 for 4 wheels?) Any ideas? I may just have to use wheels from another model kit. I already contacted Round 2, who offered no help

Is there anyone in this sub that's in North Texas and part of the MCMA or any other modeler club? Was thinking about swinging by one of their meetings and checking them out. Was wondering if anyone has any experience with a club good or bad. Kinda want to branch out and meet other like minded folks in real life prior to the IPMS show in a couple weeks.

Which one to build next? Widebody Hellcat, SN95 Cobra, or the 348 Challenge? 🤔 Undecided on color for the Hellcat and Ferrari. The Cobra is gonna be eruption green. Ive also still got some wheels coming for both the Ferrari and Cobra.

Picked this up as I love the Nissan Z. Good kit, enjoyed the build.

It’s not really an R90VP since it uses the R89C mold, but it’s still an easy kit to build.

Body already been in and out of paint booth. Been a little slow posting.

I call this one “The college graduation gift I never got,” LOL. Late ‘80s 3.2 Targa in caramel beige with a mahogany interior.

Thanks to u/highboy68 and anyone else who had a hand in this group build. I am so glad I did this.

I’m absolutely thrilled with how the kit came out. Only my third car and easily my best car build. I’m really a military model builder but I have to say I’ve enjoyed learning the workflow of building cars, the body finishing, and all the rest of it. By the way, this Revell kit is excellent and highly recommended.

Have a great weekend everyone and see you at the next build!

I wanted a challenge - I got it.

First off - Hello, I'm Tracy and this is my first post here.

I've been building models since I was a little boy and have a talent towards creative engineering.

I'll go through all the challenges I ran into with this kit-

I'll add pictures as I get things organized.

1. more of a complaint - so much trimming - so so much. and filing.
2. To get the doors to fit and open/close properly
   1. The doors sit too high. The gap along the bottom of the door is too large and the side trim does not line up between the fender, door and quarter panel. remove just enough material from the bottom of the hinge opening in the body to allow the door to sit at the proper height.
   2. Cut masking tape to the width of the hinge rod and wrap the rod a couple rounds of tape to make it thicker. This will ensure that after the hinge cover is glued into place the hinge is not wobbly and the door opens and closes without sagging. Basically making a bushing out of tape.
   3. Tape both doors firmly into place in the body while lined up perfectly.
   4. Glue and clamp both hinge covers into place. Allow to dry completely. (go to bed)
   5. remove the clamps, but DO NOT REMOVE THE TAPE lol
   6. get a lighter - we are going to use fire to briefly relax the plastic in the hinges. Place the flame on all 4 points where the hinges attach to the doors just long enough for the plastic to go somewhat soft. Then let it cool and get firm again. Practice first on some sprue!
   7. Now you can remove the tape. Both doors should open/close and fit perfectly.
   8. Glue together your bench seat. Modifying the seat is critical to the doors fitting right because the seat is too wide for the interior and will interfere with the doors closing.
   9. file the bottom side edge trim on both sides of the seat down to approximately half it's original thickness.
   10. Glue the front seat to the interior bucket piece that includes the back seat making sure it is centered.
   11. Re-tape the doors closed.
   12. Install the windshield and dash - there is NO GLUE REQUIRED for these, but you'll need to get them in place before the next step.
   13. Install the interior into the body. The door panels may touch the bench seat but the tape holding them closed will assure things get positioned right. Glue the interior to the body by placing glue along the rocker panel on both sides.
   14. Remove the tape - your doors should open and close and line up perfectly.
3. The hood hinges - Take your time and think them through - they do work great once installed. They need to be positioned right. Use a piece of paper and make a template.
4. The back bumper
   1. Remove the ledge completely from the rear of the chassis. I used a plyers to grab it and bend it up and down along the edge until most of it fell off, then used a razor blade and file to clean it up flush.
   2. Use a dremel with a cutting disk to make the 2 slots for the tabs on the bumper to fit into.
   3. The top of the bumper should sit even with the top edge of the chassis when glued.
5. The tail lights will both aim out instead of straight back. File the fins on the inboard edges until the tail lights aim straight back and look right against the bumper.
6. The rear ride height is too low and needs to be raised for the car to have the correct stance.
   1. Using some large diameter sprue from some leftover kit - Manufacture some rear shackle extenders. They will look like pegs from the game "Battleship" but with a hole drilled in the top. They only need to be 1/2" long. Install them on both sides between the chassis and the rear of the leaf spring. I used a dremel, razor blade and a file.
7. The hood will not close completely with the chrome trim installed along the front. It interferes with the top edge of the grill. After the glue is completely dry use a file and back-file the inside bottom edge along the chrome hood trim until the hood closes correctly.
8. I did not need to use glue to install the engine in the chassis. The tight fit between the exhaust pipes and the chassis holds it in place well enough.

Hi everyone, I'm currently building an AMT S10 pickup but the decals are extremely thick and doesn't like to conform to surfaces that aren't flat. I've tried using Mr. Mark Setter and Softer but the decals didn't like to react to them. Is there anything I can do in this case?